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Visit from the grandkids,they don`t let the hidden key stop them!

Hi all, Made a pretty nice trade today. Traded my jd 112 for a nice case 155. I have done so much work to the 112 over the years. It finally is a good to go tractor...but decided to get rid of it before something else needed fixed. lol It was said to see it go...but it went to a good home. Anyways...about the case. The previous owner told me he got it in pieces. He painted the tins, and said he left the frame and everything else the way it was. This tractor looks really good! Its not perfect like my 401...but its a fun tractor to drive around and not worry about scratching like I do with my 401. It has 4 new tires, a nice new seat...and runs really good. It also came with an original sleeve hitch...I have heard they are very hard to find for this model and can be worth a couple hundred bucks or more. I am not sure if I will keep the hitch yet or not...I don't even have a sleeve hitch plow. Well Here are a couple pictures. the sleeve hitch and next to my dads not so pretty 442. lol

My 7 year old Grandson came over Wednesday. He brought a tractor key with him that I gave him a couple of months ago. When I got home from work he ambushed me and showed me his keyring with the tractor key I gave him on it. He said he wanted to ride some tractors, so lets get going Papaw! I said ok and I don't think I even made it into the house yet! I opened up the garage and let the fun begin. He hopped on his favorite WH, my 654. We hit the tall grass in the back 40 and we "found" these crop circles! I said we need to take some pictures of them and send them to a science magazine! He ran to the garage and got out my metal detector to check them for radiation, he said! Hehe! Quite the imagination on that boy! It was a fun time for us both! KJ

Picked this beauty up last week from ken b purrrrssss like a kitten. Thanks Ken!

Wheel Horse CBR-32 inch Front Mount Cutter Bar for RJ's ( and I think it will fit on Suburban's too) Cutter Bar can be centered or moved (with four attaching bolts) off to the left of the tractor. PTO pedal engages the 39 inch belt that runs off engine attachment pulley.

I bought a pickup truck crane and plan to use it on my 418-A to move docks at the cabin. I added a rear 2" receiver and mounted the crane to a receiver extension so it can be easily removed. The receiver is attached to a tiller mount and also has bracing to the old hitch mount on the lower portion of the axle. Seems pretty strong.

Wide rear Wheel Horse wheels? As most of you will of noticed (I know all you UK guy's like to look through ebay a lot ) I am selling the wide wheel I made for my 312 years ago.. I'm getting a lot of interest in them, way more than I thought I would and that has got me thinking.... Is there a market for them.. I could widen them as much as is required, or even narrow them should people be weird that way.. I'm not asking "anyone want some wheels widened", I'm just trying to get a "feel" for if it would be a worthwhile and interesting way of bringing in a few extra pennies.. Any thought's guy's?

Got it home cleaned the carb and the sediment bowl took the fuel pump apart and cleaned it and it runs!! The guy selling it also thru in a set of 5-12 ags on rims!!

Finally got around to working on my rj35 a little. I made a selector lever for it today. Looking for some info on the threaded rod that attaches the speed selector to the veri-drive setup. I have a few sitting around from later tractors that I just plan to cut to size but it would be nice if someone could give me some info on one. Maybe even a picture with a tape measure next it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank! Justin

My Dad bought one of those new in the late 60's, it had a 38" deck.... sure wish I still had it. Nice find, Jake!

Jake- Good to see you making better tractor choices as you get older....lol You will like that one for sure !

Okay, you've talked me into it, I already have the manual and have done some studying. It's good to know that some leaking is expected with the diesel, I hope not to have to change those seals. I can't get the videos to work, but will keep trying (I'm not good with computer stuff). I know you're correct about the used trans, "you never know what yer gonna get". I will get started on it early next week. I REALLY APPRECIATE everybodys' help here, now all I need is some confidence. THANKS!

Paul, I was mostly right. It's not the same bolt that mounts the foot rest, it's just another one in front of it. -Rich

:bow-blue:Lars, there was absolutely no doubt you'd "geter done". Great job on the cuttin'!

Need I say more? :)

Unless I missed something in shop class. Doubt you will ever be able to convert "CC" into "HP". You can convert "CC" into "CI", but you still will not be able to convert "CI" into "HP". You can have the same "CC" engine putting out different "HP". Like trying to convert 6cyl. vs. 8cyl. HP ratings.

Way to go Lars. Excellent control of the Grinder to get a clean square end on the Tubes. Great example of Adapt and Overcome. .

I hope you join in this year Al. We need more players picking teams every week.

well here is an update on what i did whit the problem.. id try to put them in my buddys lathe but it dint work any good.. it was a bit to small to hold the rim good enugh to cut it.. So then i went to a welding shop to hear and they wanted way to much to do the job.. so i thought i might give it a try to cut it in my shop whit this well it worked really good to do it..but i used a lot of time to cut them.. now they fit going to sand blast them again and paint them then they are ready to roll again.. Thanks Lars

I am going to have to disagree. The outside diameter of the axle is essentially the same as the inside diameter of the bearing. So zero front to rear play is acceptable.

Ark manual recommends, motor oil , As far as the wood blocks, my manual does not show them. Remember there is no filter from the factory on the loader. Some guys have put them on. I just pay close attention to the color of the oil when I check the level. If it starts to go from clear to dark it's getting dirty. If I use the loader hard then I change it more often. Also don't be surprised on how hot it gets.

There are so many possibilities.... 1).. inspect the cam plate and cam on the front of the hyd pump. (item 58 & 59 in this schematic). CAREFULLY remove a couple items from the pump...CAREFULLY and KEEP EVERY THING CLEAN! ! ! 2) spring # 69 or 74 may be broken 3) Look at springs 76 and 78 too. 4) Be sure the push valve #61 is closed. 5) there is a small set screw at the top of item 57 which holds the cam in position...check it. 6) The cam #58 may be worn so flat that the cam plate 59 won't properly engage it. If you want to contact me further, my email is: daveoman@windstream.net

Stephen, I sent you a PM, but am reposting here. I hadn't seen this thread until after our conversation. Hopefully this doesn't start a war... GO! D250's are a strange breed. They were Wheel Horse's Edsel and were a true international effort. American specs, German design, French engine, Italian steering gearbox.... They were extremely advanced for their time, but were sales flops. In 1976 1000 units were imported and sold over the next two years. 1978 brought in another 500 of a revised model, then 1979 brought another 500 of the improved version. WH listed them in the product listings into the early 1980's, so they weren't flying off the shelf. They even began to promote special credit terms, freebies, and rental store sales to move them. Anyway, the 1976 model is distinguished by its generator (as opposed to an alternator), single action hydraulics, and weaker transaxle. The 1978/79's had dual action hydraulics with 4 couplers on the front under the grille, an alternator, and a slightly revised transaxle mounting and linkage that greatly improved reliability. The dashboard on the 78/79's was also revised and improved and the engagement for the PTO moved from a foot pedal to a lever. The three point hitch on the 76's was not fitted with spherical bearing "eyes" on the draft links. Instead the lower hitch arms were just punched to accept the pins from the implement. Later model hitches had the eyes that were standard on every other three point hitch ever made... The 1976's in particular were plagued with self-destructing transaxles...especially when used for tilling or heavy ground work like plowing or loading. I don't reacall the entire set of peculiars, but the general explanation is that poor lubricant or low levels combined with excessive load caused the internal axle bushings to wear. The axle/differential would sag or move around a little bit and the worm gear teeth wouldn't mesh properly. Catastrophic failure would then result since the worm gear was made (as are most worm gears) of relatively soft bronze. The teeth would shear and the whole tranaxle would fail. Warranty replacements were apparently a huge cost for WH and Gutbrod. A real nightmare according to guys who were there at the time. In 1978 the revisions were slight - and again I don't remember everything - but the improvement was significant. I think the linkage was improved to make shifting more positive and engaged the gearing better. But the bottom end benefitted by a revised mounting angle of the transaxle housing to the frame that caused loads to be transferred internally differently. So the trans was much more durable. But still, if used too heavily they too were prone to letting go. One of the really critical things about their problems was the location of the oil fill plug in the transaxle housing. Going from memory, I think it's on the right hand side of the transaxle behind the right rear tire. To check the fluid, you almost have to remove the wheel. To fill the fluid, you might as well tip the tractor on its side since the framerail immediately above the check/fill port basically blocks access to the thing. So, many people neglected to check and maintain the transaxle. Coupled with the marginal design and high precision...you get the idea. Would I mow with one? Yep. Just be very anal about transaxle maintenance. Would I plow/blade with one? No. Would I run a tiller? No. Loader? No way! Apparently the tiller, which is pretty hard to find anyway, really was rough on these things. I'm not sure mechanically why, but I guess the constant pushing and pounding was hard on the axle and exacerbated the problems. In the old days before Redsquare, it wasn't uncommon to find random internet posts about blown D250 rears on tiller-equipped tractors. Really, the D250 was a precesion engineered piece of equipment. Unfortunately it was introduced into a market and dealer network that lacked the finesse required to keep 'em going and didn't even have the metric tools needed to work on them. The combinations of the machine's fussiness and bad maintenance and abuse probably did most of them in. I'm under the impression that dealers hated them. And man were they expensive. Like $5k in 1976. Charlie (Charlies D250) used his D250 extensively and even ran it in tractor pulls (I think). I know he complete disassembled and rebuilt his prior to any of this, so perhaps his was in perfect tune, a good one, or he was just lucky. Maybe he made some mods. Anyway, he ought to be on your contact list. Now, I really like the Edsels. They are very smooth running, quiet, and extremely powerful. The Renault engine used was rated at 19.9 hp, but the same engine configuration in other applications (Groundsmasters, forklifts, etc) cranked out 35+ hp. Same carb, timing, governor, etc. So the 19.9 hp rating was probably just a lie to get around the regulations that required seatbelts and ROPS. The 60" deck from the JD 400 used on these tractors mows beautifully and pumps a tremendous amount of air. The original intent was for the D250 to be an "estate" tractor. All it was supposed to do was mow and clear snow. But the size and power meant the desire to use it heavily was too great. So they got used as compact utility tractors. Fuel pumps on the engines tend to go bad over time as any mechanical/camshaft driven pump is apt to do. The Renault replacement is (or was last time I cared to look) hard to find and expensive, so replace it with an electric one if it dies. Other than occasionally on ebay, I've never seen a rebuild kit for the Solex carburator. Points, cap, and rotor are hard to find but I think Charlie has a source. By the way, I think one of the spark plugs cannot be taken out without removing the distributor...if I remember correctly. The ignition switch on the 76's is goofy with a really special key...push the key in to enable the ignition. Pull it out to shut it off. Rotate it one click for parking lights. A second click for headlights. I think the 78's have a more conventional switch. Waterpumps aren't a bad quality or bad design, but at this age they often go bad. I've been seeing them periodically on ebay, so somebody must have found a source. If you see one, buy it. The front/mid PTO shaft also serves double duty as the front axle pivot. Bearings here often get sloppy. Duane Baerpath knows how to replace them and I thought posted a source on here at one point. What else.... That's about the whole brain dump for now. If you want to rely on one for a weekly chore tractor I think you need to prepare yourself to be patient and creative. These aren't supported by WH anymore, so parts aren't really available. Engine parts can probably be found since Continental picked up the Renault industrial line a while back. But transmission stuff is extinct. Deere probably still has deck parts. The only differences between a 400 deck and a 250 deck are the hangers. Everything else is carryover from the Deere. I still have a 76 Edsel that I'm not sure what I'm going to do with. I wouldn't buy another 76. A 78/79, definately. Just a better tractor all the way around. I see that the one you're considering is a newer one. Go for it. If it doesn't work out then it will probably be an easy resell. End of sermon, Steve