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I use old trim that was on the vinyl seats of the wheel horses. the trim that went around the vinyl and steel backed frames , I have saved the old stuff when a seat wears out to use for the hood/dash closing trim. It works just like the original stuff.

My son "Andrew" would like to nominate his Tractor. It's a 1967 L-157 Lawn Ranger. It's for the most part Original with a few extras added.

I'm going to create electricity to run an electric motor which in turn will spin a Tecky!!

Howz come you can't drill out the holes to accept the tie rod ends, and have the tie rod shaft lengthened or shortened as needed?

I know one thing Michael , Im enjoying my copy and i wouldnt part with mine . ( EVER EVER ) as it means too much to me I now have two of each edition and i wouldnt part with any of them NO WAY

Problem solved, just stuck used BFH.

i want to nominate my 1057. the whole story on the build on this one can be found here....... to date this has definitely been the most detailed build i have done. i also do my painting with powder paint, which presented a few challenges along the way, as much of this tractor as possible was painted this way, lots of parts had to be totally dismantled, engine, generator, fuel pump and carb for example, any of these parts just cant be bead blasted as an assembly and powder coated. they need to be totally dismantled and anything at all that wont survive 400 degrees in a cure oven needs to be removed. i also wanted to keep detail as much as possible as can be seen if you read through the build thread or look at some of the pics below. this tractor while looking nice, drives the best out of anything i have as no worn part went un-noticed and was either rebuilt or replaced...... engine that was used for the build..... and heres a few through the build........

Been looking for quite awhile and have been torn between an open or enclosed trailer. Both have their positives and negatives for my intended use, which other than hauling a few red ones around the place, I sometimes need to haul lumber/building materials, maybe a car, whatever...... I also needed to consider the possibility of a larger full size tractor in the future, (maybe)... I've liked the fact that the enclosed I used was secure and kept everything dry, but it was like towing a brick wall behind my old red Sierra, gas mileage sucked, Been using an open just recently and it's like there's nothing there. Well, I've gone and dragged an 18 ft flat bed car hauler home for future hauling duties. It's staying open at the moment, but may end up getting some tractor height front and sides, sort of like the low height motorcycle haulers..... At least I can take 3 or 4 comfortably now, the enclosed would only fit two and it was a pain in the rear to load.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here are some pictures from a few months ago... I mixed up some of my paint (ppg) to test how it worked with my primer and it worked well. Some spots have filled bubbles but looks very nice! I will post more pictures soon...

Hi I am restoting a 1961 701 and need to replace my Steering Shaft Support-Bottom. The original Wheel Horse numer is 3923. If you have one send me a message or know where I can find a replacement, Please let me know! Thanks for your assistance Terry 701

It's got to be low to reach 'em...all his Techy's are 6 feet under.

Lane, I don't think so................

MORE PICTURES

I GOT THE 312-8 PRESSURE WASHED TODAY. IT'S AMAZING WHAT A LITTLE SOAP AND WATER WILL DUE. BOWTIE

1) Locate a steel plumbing straight collar of about 2" or 3" dia and 2" long. 2) Rest that collar on a SOLID anvil (or cement floor)and center the spindle on it, just as you have it positioned in the vise of your pic. 3) Find a short bolt and thread all the way into the shaft end. 3a)... prevents mushroom of the shaft end 4) Hold the flat face of a ball-peen hammer on the center shaft 5) With a BIG 2 or 3lb one-hand sledge hammer in other hand, whack the ball-peen VIOLENTLY...as if you had a pair. 6) If fearful of whacking your hands, have a friend hold the ball-peen for you. 7) You should be able to drive the shaft right down thru the 'spacer' and partly thru the spindle all in the same motion. 7a) Once it breaks loose, remove the short bolt and thread in one a bit longer, progressively until it all comes apart.

The last time I saw this 701, it had been sandblasted, but was sitting in a pile waiting to be primed. I know that Austyn had hoped to get it together in time for the big show, but as we all know, these things take a lot of time and patience. So, having said that, I am glad you are taking your time to do it right. As a side note, Austyn is 14 years old, and the previous owner of my recently acquired Lawn Ranger. I am really glad to see young members like him, Jake Kuhn, and others carrying on the hobby.

That would be a Blacksmith's Favorite Hammer , right??

Here is a picture of my compact tiller with the depth control....it helps so the tiller won't fight you so much. The one pictured is much smaller than the one you have pictured, I am guessing that came from one of the 70's Gilson type walk behinds.

I used 1986-88 42" side discharge mower deck model number 05-42MS05 The pto to deck belt is called the drive belt. The belt on the deck is called the spindle belt. Drive belt Toro 102742 nla Use 94-2501 {HA/Ax103"} 6378 Gates 1/2"x103-1/4" 40 degrees 6378 Napa 1/2"x103-1/4" 40 degrees Spindle belt Toro 6738 {HA/4Lx86"} 6886 Gates 1/2"x86" 4L860W Napa 1/2"x86" Best to get an original Toro belt if you can. Operator manuals http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/1326-mower-rotary-48in-sd-1986-87-05-48ms05-om-810518r1pdf/ Mower deck belt chart http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/1998-chart-mower-drive-and-spindle-belts/ Garry

OOPH yeah...be still my heart.

I would guess a sub-soiler too, seems way too heavy-duty for a tiller depth control. Just sub-soiling 2-3" before you rototill makes a big difference, it's very hard for the tines to get into hard-dry soil and it seems harder still getting through grass that has not been broken up. Second photo, I have no idea.

Part in 1st picture is for setting rototiller depth on a walk behind.

The uninsulated connectors you seek are "Packard 56 style". They do have the tang which locks them in place into Packard 56 style connectors, Insulated connectors have no need of the locking tang. Tin plated terminals are considered more appropriate for outdoor use. When brass oxidizes, resistance forms. When tin oxidizes, the tin oxide is also conductive. Tin plated terminals will command double the price of unplated brass connectors.

I painted about 7 peices, some turned out very well, and in one or two pieces it bubbled up. I just opened up a new respirator and works alot better. I will take some pictures of what i painted tommorow and post them.

I sure will Craig!!! I'm just happy he got an International, and not a John Deere

One of the options I use plowing out on the lawn is a piece of pipe with a slit the full length slid over the cutting edge, no need for skid shoes the blade is down on the ground and it doesnt dig in,,, does a real nice job. For my purposes I use pvc, on stone I would think metal pipe would wear longer but pvc is cheap and easy to work with.

This was the first tractor that dad and I tackled to clean up and put back in to good working order. It was the feature model for the 2012 WHCC show in Arendtsville, PA where it was revealed. We had a great time and learned many things through the process of doing our first machine. We were pretty pleased with the results and have had a lot of fun on it. It now has the correct seat and is getting a sickle bar mower cleaned up to install on it. Here she is........

Hi guys, Thought id share this quickly before going to work. I know how you like photos. Since fitting the new drive belt, wheelies have been a problem (much prefered over the slipping and loss of drive though) whilst in the hilly parts of the garden. And as the plan in the next few weeks is to put some chevron tyres and shift lots of mud with the trailer i wanted a solution. So here it is, a custom weight bar made from scrap and left overs i had around. Built over the past few nights after work, it is far from perfect, and needs more paint, but couldnt wait Ill tidy it up at a later date but just wanted to try it out and make sure its actually going to work before spending hours on it. First up i made a new engine mount as the original was aliuminium angle, then made a weight bracket. Then came the weight Made from a couple disc brakes, sheet of stainless, two turned oak caps and some ali handles. To be filled with sand. Designed so i can still open the bonnet without having to remove anything What do you think?

Mobil 1 just seems the easiest brand to find in a full synthetic name brand oil

Wix filter number 51410 if not at napa www.perfecttrimlawnandgardencare.com

Too bad, so sad...offer Mark my condolences, will you Van?

You live right in between two pretty big collectors that I know of... about an hour to each, east and west. I don't know if they're buying right now, but I'm going to send them messages to make sure they've seen this topic.

The MMO in the fuel should supply adequate lube to the valve stem. Are you sure the valve lash is not set too tight resulting in the valve not closing when hot? Garry

Didn't start... Cleaned fueltank Changed fuelline Added fuelfilter Fresh fuel I think problem might be fuel pump, should test that next. Are there spares availble for that? Hood off Carb close-up Carburator serial no. Scary cutterbar

I use my cart at shows to haul goodies around. I coated the inside with the spray on bed liner. Not a factory look but functional.

Sorry Craig, I haven't got around to taking a pic of the Horse in my rearview yet, but here is a pic of the back seat of our minivan on the way to church this morning. Matt :flags-texas: