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Horse hunting has been kind of slow lately and I have been selling a lot of stuff I don't need or use anymore and watching craigslist for some deals on shop equipment the last couple weeks have been very good to me...I picked up a 80 gallon Champion 2 stage air compressor this compressor runs at about 600 rpm and is very quiet compared to an oil less compressor and the company is still in business so I can easily get parts for it. Previous owner said it would keep up with everything except his 1 inch impact....cfm is 18 to 23 so it will keep up with everything in my little shop. I was cruising craigslist one evening when this plasma cutter came up at a VERY cheap price I emailed the owner and told him I would take it so we set up a time to pick up after he got off work but during that time he had a bunch of phone calls and emails asking about it and when he told them it was sold they gave him an earful for selling it so cheap so he calls me up and asks if I will pay a little more so I agree since I am still paying less than half of what they are selling for used on ebay. I tried it out a little today and it is very easy to use and a lot of fun....I can run it at either 115v for up to 1/4 inch or 220v for 3/8. My boss updated his torch set so I got his old set, it's a combination of Victor and Smith's. I need to lease some tanks and build a cart. Still looking for a good sandblaster or I may set up an e-tank.

1st gear gives you the most Wheel Horse seat time! Life is already too fast.

There is nothing like the sound of that Onan when it hits the governor! Until it runs out of gas, that is.

A 520 with a 60" deck will make you want to mow EVERYTHING! Ooooh, the power, THE POWER!!!

If you need replacement safety switches for the clutch pedal or PTO lever on a C Series, replacements are available at the small engine parts supplier for $40+ each or auto parts stores may have what you need on the shelf. Ask for a Backup Reverse Light Switch for a 1979 Jeep CJ5. Cost can be as low as $15 each. I just picked up 2 new ones off eBay for $9 each. Just remember to keep the mounting nut off the old switch. The new switches do not appear to come with the nut. c/o Excelsior Auto Parts - Davenport, Iowa

i did a little freind with a guy i work with today. i had a cub rear end he wanted for his puller. in return i got 5 four speed rear ends, a 1067 and 856 remains. i think that those are the models i wrote forgot the numbers i will get them in the morning. the 1067 isnt bad its missing the belt guard and has a bad dent in the top of the hood and the short frame was a hod rod/puller project i think i can fix the hood and put the front end back and to stock. i dont think i did to bad for a cub rear and a few other partsnt

And yet, another poor soul sucked into the fray. Seriously, I don't think you guys did enough to save him. You all fully well know it starts with one. Lord help us all. . Welcome to Red Square. You will love the tractor. Good Luck with it.

?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent> I like the bar tires with some extra weight on my 312-8. ?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent> I used truf tires with chains on my GT1142 before then switched to the bar tires and some extra weight. It's much easier on the paved driveway which has steep and flat sections. I got one of the heavy hitches for my 312-8 and we made a weight bracket that slips in it with some 40 lb suitcase weights. When I need the tractor to move one of my trailers I just slip a 2" receiver drawbar with a hitchball in it. I do use chains on my GT14 when using a turning plow to plow gardens. Don't think I'd go back to turf tires and chains for plowing snow or on my blower tractor.

That is just priceless Ryan. There once was a woman who begot, Three kids...Nat, Bat and Tat. It was fun in the breeding, But hell in the feeding, When she found there was no *** for Tat. Sorry

Our newest addition to the family arrived on February 21.....this is child number 4 so we now have 3 girls and 1 boy. We named her Annabelle Marie. Pictured below is baby "Belle", myself and Tiffany (wife), and our other 3 children Kailyn, Ellie, and Kaleb. I am going to have a lot less time for the horses now that the family has gotten larger so check out the classifieds I am letting a few go but kinda wishing I hadn't sold my 4 wheel wagon since I can only fit 3 in the 2 wheel wagon as you can see from the picture below.

Here are a few pics of a real rj25 taken at Mentone a few years ago

Congragulations. It won't be long before you have a whole collection of them!

I liked em so much I have a pair... Waiting for an offspring but no luck yet

Mike, I almost feel sorry for you. Now you are hooked. Addiction is hard to overcome. Marvin

Amen to that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

and so the the madness continues!

You will definitly want weights if your planning on pushing snow, chains maybe. Is your driveway steep? I personally prefer turf type tires with weights for plowing. I had a pair of weighted 8.50 ag's once but they never gripped like the weighted turfs do. Mike..........

Thanks guys!!! Check out the picture....life is rough

I may have fixed my own problem by reading more threads.. I will put it in the dipstick tube.

First look at sandblasted parts

Well guys just got back from checking out this wheelhorse... and well I couldn't just leave it there so I bought it. It came with a small pull behind cart and a couple of attachments. From just looking at the decal Im guessing its a 855 1965 Lawn & Garden Tractor 855 4-Speed Kohler K181S-30108A 8 Wheel Horse 5049... am I right? The Hub caps all look great, and the headlight work. I haven't really had a chance to check it over to well yet but will update later with some pics of the attachments... Here are some pics of it. If you guys see something I am missing on it let me know, I think some pieces are miss from the pto... also came with a set of ag tires for the back!

First looks First looks W H K H

WELCOME to RED SQUARE

BUY IT!! I HAD 2 AT ONE POINT AND WOULD HAVE NO PROBLEM PICKING UP ANOTHER. I WAS ALSO PUSHING SNOW WITH THEM WITH NO PROBLEM

i just bought a nice gt1600 two weeks ago, great tractor. you'll love it. i've been using the heck out of it. welcome aboard from one noob to another. this forum is fantastic!

Welcome aboard.

Mike, Welcome to Red Square.

Yes very nice--you'll really like it! I think mine mows better than anything I've ever owned. I highly recommend doing all the maintenance first thing. Decarbon heads, change all fluids and filters, plugs, check valve clearance, and clean up carb.

The tires and a close up picture of the motor that my recoil and air cleaner is on.

Same here - I made these with parts from McMaster-Carr. Not difficult! Duff

Well...Its been a while, sorry for not updating. I have changed plans on this and have decided to do a complete redo on it. I have been messing with the rear drive system with the pauls and trying to get the rings to stay on. We got our buddy to make us some new rings for it and now it seems to work great! He also rebuilt my variator for it and it is perfect! I have all new tires for this one already as my dad was ordering tires so I could basically get free shipping on fronts, and a buddy had a set of new 6-12's that I purchased from him for $70! My hood was in terrible shape and I think the tractor has been flipped over at some time but got a guy at the body shop to tinker with it for a little while and he got it pretty nice. After sandblasting it is not that bad! I still need to find a motor for it but have a kohler schnacke and oil bath so I am hoping to find a k90 for it rather than a clinton. I have next week off from school so I am hoping to get the frame fixed or,at least start on it here are a couple pictures of it. the frame, if you look carefully you can see my motor that has the oil bath and recoil on it(that is a k91 just wanted to put them on to see what they looked like) frame needs straightened out too from what I think was a rollover. have just about everything glass beaded. front rims, need to find a nicer set of rears what the rings look like

There is one here http://rbwheelhorsestables.yolasite.com/wheel-horse-tractors.php Garry

Not as good as SOI's $9 deal but........ Autozone part DR429 about 18 bucks NAPA part 7-01971 about 19 bucks (less with preferred discount)

Both examples appear to have the correct slide on terminals. It's nice to know they are still available.

You can also do a search for Stens 430-193, which is a direct replacement for the Wheel Horse safety switch. I have seen them for as little as $18.20, and they have the correct slide-on terminals on the back to fit the existing wiring connector.

I bought joints and rods from McMastercarr for about $50 shipped and made my own, and they are greasable.

I used 1/2" heim joints with bushings to 3/8" at the spindles. Made that change around 1988 the tie rods were falling off about ever other time I mowed. Got tired of beating them back together to finish the yard.

I make my tie rods. i get rod ends from racingrodends.com then use steel tubing that i tap with a left and right hand 3/8" fine thread tap. That said, i know not everyone has the ability to do this but it is much cheaper and they look nice too! Justin

I buy from Mcmaster-Carr. good selection and a heck of lot cheaper them those bos stores.

You might try partstree.com; http://www.partstree.com/parts/?pn=78-2900-01 Lowes and Home "Cheapo" have tie rod ends. I don't know if they're the right size. I might take a peek-a-boo at a pair. You would then need to cut a rod and thread both ends. http://www.appliancerepair.homedepot.com/PartDetail/Ball-Joint-Assembly/9230448A/1606406

78-2900-01 (replaces 102592 and 102593) TIE ROD ASM still available from Toro 3 adjustable pieces now replace the original one piece Garry

How long are they center-center?

Your grass, your expectations and your experience will tell you: If your grass is dry and weak, then 3rd may be fine. Healthy thick grass that you want to look real good, then 2nd. If the grass is moist and long, then probably 1st gear for a first cut. Sharp regular blades are very good, but "Gator Blades" are best. A clean under-deck gives a more even spread of clippings. Mowers are designed to cut at full throttle. "Zero Turns", they are only designed for mowing and do it the best and fastest. with other models; "Price, Speed, Quality . . . pick any two, but you can't have all three" . . . is very True!

I've owned all of the D-auto models at one time or another but only kept the 1973 18-Auto as my "collectable." So I'll toss my 2 cents in the fountain... I've never been overly impressed with the abilities of the D-autos compared to the C-series, but they certainly have their following. I always felt that they wanted for traction, especially when equipped with the floatation turf tires on the rear. I tried plowing snow with a 56" blade on my D160-K and didn't find it very satisfactory. On my D180 the snowthrower was so heavy on the front that even with wheel weights and extra ballast hanging on the hitch I couldn't get back up my driveway when the blower was lifted. Both tractors had weights and chains. They're also not particularly manueverable. They have a wide turning radius and slow steering that made them uncomfortable (for me) to use for mowing. I'm not sure if the available turning brakes improve this much. The engines used seem to put out obscene amounts of power, so you'll seldom overwork the engine on a D. The tractors were decent machines, but they did have some problems that years of (mis)use can highlight. For example, the early D's and all of the 18-Autos had 3/4" diameter front spindles. These were prone to breaking even without the added stress of front implements. Retrofits to 1" spindles and axles cured that. The steering boxes seem to get very loosy-goosey over time. The transmission itself seems to be a bit undersized for the tractor. The hydro used was also used on much smaller C-series tractors and seems more vulnerable to overheating and premature wear in the D-autos. Transmission temperature gauges were fitted after the 1974 revision and later a transmission cooling fan was added to help alleviate the heat. I think the size of the tractor and its big implements (like the 56" blade or the loader) set these things up for abuse. At some point, 1975 or 1976 I think, Wheel Horse added a pressure relief valve to the transmission bolted to the frame behind the left rear tire to help absorb spikes (and damage) from hard use. These improvements, I think, indicated that the hydro unit was a bit marginal for some applications. The divorced hydro pump and motor was actually, in my opinion, a brilliant idea. Why run a long shaft or belt from the engine to the transmission when a couple of pipes could do the same thing? Simple and effective. The differential bolts have already been mentioned. It's not terribly uncommon to find a tractor with a welded transaxle casing from one of these errant bolts getting pushed through the cast iron. Speaking of transaxles; in/around 1976 Wheel Horse relocated the parking brake control from a separate control on the dashboard to the Direction Control Lever (DCL). The DCL, then, had the obvious positions of Fwd-N-Reverse but also added a Park position accessed by pulling the DCL rearward into a separate slot near the Reverse position. The Park position engaged the parking pawl inside the transaxle (another weak spot). Anyway, apparently this reconfiguration caused problems with operators shifting into Park while still on the move which, of course, introduced the possibility of causing internal transaxle damage. One guy I talked to who has scrapped probably a couple hundred D-autos over the years said it could even cause the transaxle to drop out of the tractor if the loads were high enough and the traction was good enough. The Parking brake control was later moved back to the dashboard and the extra slot was filled with a bolt-on plate. Eventually, a contracting band on an external drum replaced the internal pawl on all Wheel Horse hydros including the D. But they did offer some big attachments and a lot of guys really like them. Strangely, the biggest belly deck ever offered was a 48" unit. But 60" and even a 72" rear mower (from Woods) was offered. The 72-incher is exceedingly rare and I've only ever known of one of them that Jim M had. 54" and 56" front blades, 50" mid blades, Ark 550 loaders, 48" thrower, and - of course - the backhoe attachments were offered. You can see that the dreams and plans for the D-autos were big. The 50" tiller is a brute. Early versions were actually 38" in width with optional extensions for the total 50" width. But be advised that the input gear tends to be a bit weak and the tiller should NEVER be used with the 3pt hitch set up to provide down pressure. It can overload the tiller and can lift the rear of the tractor enough to propel it forward with considerable and uncontrollable eagerness. The market was for "estate" owners and pretty much whomever now would be buying a Sub Compact Utility Tractor. They remained in the lineup a long time and must have acheived pretty good sales considering how expensive they were. 1973 marked the introduction of the series with the 18-Automatic. In 1974, the tractor was mildly changed (the dashboard changed to include more gauges, the parking brake lever moved from the "hump" to the dash, and the space under the hood grew taller by about an inch) and the D160 with a Kohler k341 single cylinder joined the lineup, the D180 with a Kohler k482 replaced the 18-Auto, and the D200 with a k532 was added. The D160K was a stripper tractor with no headlights, a simple seat, and smaller engine. The top line D200 was fully dressed with PTO/3pt/and turning brakes. D180's and D200's had a "suspension seat" mounted on a big spring and easily adjusted forward and aft. I think the seats themselves were different. And the D200 had a 5-gallon gas tank whereas the others were smaller. In 1978 (I think) the 16-kohler was dumped for the Onan 16 horse twin BF-something. The D180 was dropped. And the D200 soldiered on. I think eventually the 3pt was added as standard to all D's. Probably to use up parts or something. The C195 and D250 experiments and the end of the run for the D-autos put the nail in the coffin for WH dipping a toe in the larger tractor market. I too found implements hard to find, but 3pt/PTO attachments can be had if you look outside the WH family. The 2000 rpm rear PTO and the cat 0 hitch really became the standard for many garden tractors up through the 1980's or 1990's. Deere and Cub Cadet (probably others) offered 2000 rpm bush hogs, tillers, and finish mowers. The location of the PTO shaft itself was a bit goofy on some Cubs that might make their implements hard to interchange, but there is more out there than I first realized. The D250, on the other hand, is really wacky with a 1000 RPM PTO that spins in the opposite direction (CCW). The D-autos were GOOD tractors. But not great. The C-series were GREAT tractors. Wow, that's a lot of typing for 2 cents. Not necessarily much value though. Steve

Anything can be machined given enough time and money..... Given the complex angled geometry of this piece it would involve multiple setups and fixtures, or it could be 3D milled on a CNC mill but it would take many hours and shop time is expensive. What would be awesome is if a member here worked at a die casting shop, then we could have a mold machined and make them cheaply, but again requires a 3D CNC mill and lots of expensive tool steel. Glenn was working on a lost wax brass casting process last I heard. Wouldn't it be great if Toro found a deserted wharehouse somewhere full of the orriginal dies patterns and molds for all our favorite parts and said "Hey RedSquare you guys want this stuff?" :sleeping-drool:

Congratulations Ryan and family...I think a few BEARS JERSEYS are in order. This should be fun to watch at LaSueur this year.

Rustoleum Regal Red all the way :handgestures-thumbupright: