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Begin forwarded message: At a recent computer expo (COMDEX), Bill Gates reportedly compared the computer industry with the auto industry and stated, "If Ford had kept up with technology like the computer industry has, we would all be driving $25 cars that got 1,000 miles to the gallon." In response to Bill's comments, Ford issued a press release stating: If Ford had developed technology like Microsoft, we would all be driving cars with the following characteristics: 1. For no reason whatsoever, your car would crash.........twice a day. 2.. Every time they repainted the lines in the road, you would have to buy a new car. 3... Occasionally your car would die on the freeway for no reason. You would have to pull to the side of the road, close all of the windows, shut off the car, restart it, and reopen the windows before you could continue. For some reason you would simply accept this. 4.... Occasionally, executing a maneuver such as a left turn would cause your car to shut down and refuse to restart, in which case you would have to reinstall the engine. 5..... Macintosh would make a car that was powered by the sun, was reliable, five times as fast and twice as easy to drive - but would run on only five percent of the roads. 6...... The oil, water temperature, and alternator warning lights would all be replaced by a single "This Car Has Performed An Illegal Operation" warning light. 7....... The airbag system would ask, "Are you sure?" before deploying. 8........ Occasionally, for no reason whatsoever, your car would lock you out and refuse to let you in until you simultaneously lifted the door handle, turned the key and grabbed hold of the radio antenna. 9......... Every time a new car was introduced car buyers would have to learn how to drive all over again because none of the controls would operate in the same manner as the old car. 10.......... You'd have to press the "Start" button to turn the engine off. PS - I'd like to add that when all else fails, you could call "customer service" in some foreign country and be instructed in some foreign accent with high-level terms on how to fix your car yourself!!!!

Mike, You should stop throwing all of their stuff back over and save it until you have a yard sale and sell it...the proceeds can go to Wheel Horse stuff!! heck, if it's on your property and they don't make the effort to retrieve it...sell it!

We hae lived in our house for 23 years. Up until last year our back door neighbor has been an elderly lady who kept her place as neat as a pin. She moved into a nursing home and the house was sold. We have had a 4 ft. fence between the yards mostly to keep my dogs in. Enter a new family. With like 4 kids there are always ballls in our yard. Before mowing once I threw 2 baseballs, a kick ball, a soccer ball, a basket ball and a Frisbee over the fence at once. They had a little rug dog. Now besides that they have a 7 foot high dog! At least he looks that way. He has destroyed the yard. There are about 200 kids toys in the mud all chewed up all strewn all over. No one will bother to go pick them up. The view is a DEE ZAS TOR!! My wife's solution? Full grown Emerald Arborvitaes from Lowes. She got 11 of them. Had to make 2 trips with the trailer. Used the C-160 to get them into the back yard. Got mud stuck all over the AG's I feel like a Big Boy Farmer who just came out of the fields in the spring!

Yep, got tired of the neighbors nonsense too, so last year I used the push mower to send my neighbors toys back. Shortly after that, they also erected an arborvitae wall. Though it was a hard winter here...I couldn't help but notice, the deer ate well this year.

Meet Widestride. Modified C120 for logging work over rough terrain. Agri tyres to go on and independant rear brakes. Holds its course on steep banks and steers good. Very stable tractor, pulls a 4x5 4 wheel trailer and soon to be log skidder. Deciding whether to put rubber fenders on all round or leave it as it is. When all mods have been made i will tear it down for paint. Can anyone recommend a reliable 12volt winch for the front.

Operating the 1967 Wheel Horse St-324 snowthrower with my 1967 Lawn Ranger , L-157 model. This tractor has a 6 HP , H-60 Tecumseh motor and is an electric start.

Save Old Iron Thank. yes i speak French but try my best for speak in English... Yes my problem is resolved ! i disconnect batteries and motor not stall ! the engine runs too slowly because the link to carburetor was broken i replace wire to mechanic link to carburetor. now the engine run very fast and the generator produce 13.5 volt when the motor run to maximum. the bolt F run correctly. the bolt A run correctly. thank against i

When I moved in there was the possiblity of a right-of-way driveway alongside my property so I planted something like what you are doing on that side of my yard. I gave mine a good dose of Miracle Grow every spring and they took off like they were on steriods! They were all about 3' tall when planted 14 years ago and now some of them are over 25' tall. Mike.............

thats good

As all above have stated, you might construct a wood framed shallow "box"(think of having to ship a mower deck and go from there) and use a rubber sheet like a pond liner for an E-tank. long term, a major electrical upgrade might be the best bet. I'm in the same boat..only have some 110 outlets in the garage.

One more thing, if you are considering purchasing another mower to speed up the mowing process, zero turns are great but where you gain most of the time savings is in their ability to manuver versus a tractor. As mentioned, Dixie Chopper has a very fast mower and so is the Scag Cheetah. These machines can travel around 17 mph but the cut quality is horrific at that speed. These high speeds are mainly for transport only. We sell around 150 commercial zero turns a year and trust me, once you exceed 8mph you start losing cut quality rapidly. With all of these high end zero turns at my disposal I still love my horses !!!!!!

Ed, I haven't had to do any weed wacker fixin' in 20 years. Assuming you have a standard magneto which will be energized by a magnet on the flywheel, I can see the need for at least one lug on the magneto body to be leading off to a kill switch. Make sure this lead is not grounded when you have the kill switch in the RUN position.If you do have two wires leading from the magneto, they probably both go to a switch that shorts out the primary coil of the magneto to stop the spark from the secondary. Remove both wires from the mag unit and try to get spark once again. Beyond that, make sure the magneto body (metal mounting tab) is grounded to the engine frame. Pull back the spark plug boot to make sure the spark plug wire is not corroded off the metal clip which grabs onto the spark plug. Magneto gaps usually run about 10 thou. Maybe download a manual for the wacker, they might have more specific settings, but 10 thou should at least get you a spark if the magneto is good and the kill wire is not grounded. As far as resistance measurements are concerned (and I'm guessing here) the spark plug terminal to ground will probably be in the range of 8 - 15K ohms ???? The two lugs connected to the kill switch (the primary coil in the mag) may have only 100 or so ohms. Make sure the kill switch wires are removed from the mag when you make this measurement. Again, a service manual off the internet may be a good place to start. Best of luck.

I think you have to look at apples to apples. The Wheelhorse is a garden tractor and not a grass mower. That zero turn is meant to do one thing and one thing only and that is to mow grass. It has a much higher RPM at the deck verses the Wheelhorse. Even if you tried to mow at the zero turn's speeds, your lawn would look like a nine year old's haircut from another nine year old. If your time is valuable to you and cutting grass is the equivalent of a root canal, then you'll need to get a grass cutter. My neighbor's Wheelhorse 260 series tractor runs rings around all my WH garden tractors. But his tractor sits in the shed late Fall through late Spring. Mine have the blowers and plows. Versatility verses doing one thing and one thing really well. That is your pick with any garden tractor I'm afraid.

Richard, no can of black paint is going to fool me, at least not for long, maybe. Matt

Take a good look at the cast iron steering support at the bottom of the column. It is reasonably common for these to be broken, but look ok without a close inspection.

They will all be for sale. Usually I put them on eBay but if enough interest I will then offer them in the classifieds here. Here is what the finished product looks like:

I blame it on either Climate Change or Lars has a giant fan in Norway pointing West Well i have the Fan on 2 now i can turn it to 3 if yah want..... I still have a lot of frost around -15 to 20C in the morning and really nice days whit around 0 c degrees.. it has started to melt a bit around here now.. but not much..

1st and foremost, you need a seperate electric service for your garage, or a dedicated circuit from your house panel with a panel in the garage. As long as you are tripping the breaker, you are pulling too many amps (probably a 20 amp breaker). If you do not have the expertise for the electrical, get a friend that knows what they are doing, or hire a professional electrician before you burn your house & garage down!

I'll attempt to be politically correct here. He's full of crap. A governor either works or it doesn't, it responds to engine speed and thus responds to load that would lower speed.

I finally got rid of my little S-10 and got something a little bigger to pull my trailer with. I think it'll haul my horses with no problem.

a ten dollar kiddy pool and some washing soda, fill it with water put half cup of washing soda per five gallons water and some fence or rebar, whatever you got laying around and a battery charger and about 12 hrs on each side and abra cadabra no more rust, just rinse it away with a garden hose. simple as that, kinda

Agree, more compressor needed. If you check the requirements for the blaster it should give you the minimum CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) and the minimum psi that it needs to operate. I think it may be around 6 cfm at 90 psi.

Thanks, Ken. It's doesn't always look like that, it's a mess more than it's organized .... The safe came from an old grocery store here in town, I had the local lumber yard bring it to my house with their forklift. If I ever move, it stays with the house.

Bill, let me know when you are ready to trade that 520 of yours for my Cub Cadet 1650, with a fresh K-341 and 50A deck and 42" snow blade Van - One of the requirements for my fleet of garden tractors is that they MUST be fun - LOL!!! Sometimes I get to working on these old iron machines and get a little irritated and give it a rest before it poisons the experience. I'm working on a hobby tractor - not the day job at the salt mine. However, this particular 520-H has been a royal pain in the buttox with it's difficult starting! I'd have parted with it several years ago had it not been given to me by my FIL and that I'm kind of stubborn and likely would burn the tractor to the ground than part with it...

OOOH! Trade for a 1650, sounds like fighting words Definitely sounds like carb issues. We replace more carbs than I care to remember at the shop that I work for. Certainly a more common problem with our homeowners than our commercial guys. If your fuel has any level of ethanol AT ALL and your machine sits for an average of a week or more at a time, you are more than likely gonna have a carb problem sooner or later. Onans seem to struggle with ethanol more than the other engines (just my opinion though) and of course their carbs and kits are some of the most expensive. Good Luck!

inline one-way check valve

Unevenness or warp in the gasket sealing surface of a cylinder head may cause vacuum or pressure leaks in the combustion chamber. If left unchecked, cylinder head distortion may result in less than optimum engine performance and visible symptoms including oil leaks around the head area and possible blowout of the head gasket material. If hot combustion gases are allowed to continue to leak past the aluminum head, erosion of the aluminum gasket sealing surface can occur and render the cylinder head useless. The procedure below explains how to renew a flat(ter) surface on the cylinder head gasket sealing area to prevent defects in the gasket surface from destroying additional head gaskets or the cylinder head itself. Float glass is certainly not the end all argument for a perfectly flat surface but can easily provide sufficient flatness for the purpose of improving the sealing capability of a LGT tractor cylinder head. In preparation for renewing the cylinder head, a few common items will need to be obtained from local suppliers. The surface of an ordinary pane of glass makes a very suitable flat surface to perform this procedure. Several sheets of Wet/Dry 220 grit waterproof paper will be required. Water in a spray bottle will be needed to wet the abrasive paper to keep aluminum debris from collecting on the abrasive paper and clogging the grit prematurely. Wetting the glass pane slightly will allow the paper to "suction cup" itself to the glass pane when the cylinder head squeegees the water from underneath the paper. The cylinder head pictured below will be used for this process. This is a high compression head from a Cub Cadet 10HP Kohler engine. To observe the progression of material removed from the head, I apply a very light "guide coat" of black spray paint to the gasket sealing area of the cylinder head. Complete removal of the guide coat will signal the completion of the flattening process. First, establish a stable and flat surface on which to lay the glass pane. The float glass I used was 1/4" thick - pretty stout stuff. Edges of the glass were beveled for safety. Make certain the glass surface is clean. Any detectable residue such a grease, dirt or stickers on the glass will cause a dimple in the abrasive paper and prevent the cylinder head from renewing perfectly flat. I usually run a single edge razor blade across the surface of the glass pane to assure no residue is present. and onto the back of the abrasive paper. Allow the paper to soften somewhat so when flipped over, it will lay flat on the glass pane and hold the paper in place with "stiction" Flip over the abrasive sheet and wet the top side to allow aluminum particles removed from the cylinder head to float away from the abrasive and not clog the sheet prematurely Place the cylinder head gasket surface side down on the abrasive paper. I leave the spark plug in the head to allow for a better grip on the head throughout the process. Move the head in an even figure 8 motion across the abrasive paper. Apply a slight downward pressure on the head and inspect the progress every 20 or so figure 8 rotations. The downward pressure applied to the head is approximately what you would use if you were applying polishing compound to car paint. No need for excessive pressure here, let the tools do the work. After the first 20 swipes, inspect the head to check your progress. Notice the black guide coat is being abraded away on the "high spots" on the cylinder head. Another 10 to 20 swipes on the abrasive paper and inspect the progress. The blacked areas are the guide coat still present in low spots between the areas polished by the abrasive paper. Another 20 or so swipes and note how the shiny portion of the gasket area is increasing in size. Another 20 swipes And the final 20 swipes produces a gasket seal area without any evidence of guide coat left The head material removed during the process . The slurry produced from this process is also highly abrasive. You may want to keep the slurry away from any nearby hand tools or power tools. The final step is to gently wash away any silicon carbide material from the glass pane. Rinse the pane prior to wiping it down so as not to rub any abrasive into the glass surface.

Here is That gravity feed I was talking about. That is the muffler in front. Chas.