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For documentation purposes: Problem: Transmission fluid was leaking from tractor. It seemed to be fine during operation, but once I was finished using a small pool would show up under the tractor. Enough to require putting newspaper underneath. Source of Leak: When I investigated, I found the leak to be coming from the INSIDE (or engine side) of the cam block. The suspected culprit was o-ring # 52 (shown on page 54 of the hydro manual, part number 972116). Fix: The larger o-ring (PN # 970026) was available from Toro dealer. I replaced this with no problems. The smaller o-ring (PN # 972116) was NOT available from Toro dealer. I ended up using a 1 X 3/4 x 1/8 # 15 O-Ring, which was 1/32 thicker than the "bad one" I pulled off the tractor. During my test run I did not have any leaks. Hopefully this holds true after I get it back on the ground. If I have more problems I will re-visit and update this post.

I know what you mean. I had to "De-Friend" 2 guys, 1 a member here because of all the Junk and Trash they were posting and ending up on my page. Stuff not meant for "younger eyes! I picked up a rare Sunstrand strainer filter form Mike all ready. I may have a set of 1054 weights to go on the page if my friend still has them.

If your trying to paint with the little compressor you have in the blaster post, no gun is going to help, you need a bigger compressor, I have 3 of the cheap harbor freight guns and they shot just fine, not high $$ guns but do the job, but I have a 60gal. 5hp compressor. This was painted with a HF $9 gun

I have two wheelhorse tractors with no tags. One has a three piece transaxle and the other a two piece that looks much stronger. Other than that they are identical. I attached a photo that might help.

I have started a new Wheel Horse buying selling trading only group on Facebook.. https://www.facebook.com/groups/WHGTP/ it is a closed group but if you would like to join apply to join on the group and we will confirm who you are...fell free to post anything you need or have for sale "only". Myself Mike Biser (racinfool40) and Scott Mehlberg (whfan74) started this to cut down on the clutter on his other Page Wheel Horse Junkies..https://www.facebook.com/groups/263966625951/.. Junkies is for showing pics and support or just talking about or tractors and the other is For sale and wanted, Trading only! Stop by and check us out if you would Like..Some on here are already belong and wanted to see how it went before I shared with everyone...Everyone is welcome. Thanks, Mike!

If it was a bad ground he would have to clamp the negative cable to the engine to get it to start. If both cables to the battery it still would not start with a bad ground.

There are ready for work and show. the 10 is for work and the 8 is for show. I thought I would switch them out put the 8 in the trailer and put the 10 in the garage for spring work. I have a line on 2 /657 so when I pick one or the outer this year I will have all of the 57 series. AKA 6/8/10/1257.I have 2 1057 the outer is a part and being painted slow process but not in hurry. I hope you enjoy the pictures. CLICK ON PICTURE TO MAKE LARGER. Gary B............

Take a good look at the cast iron steering support at the bottom of the column. It is reasonably common for these to be broken, but look ok without a close inspection.

Would you consider just selling some of the brackets that hold the switch?

Probably a poor choice of words on my part... I guess what I was getting at was - how deep are you plowing? The depth of the plow should only be half of the plow width. So if you have a 10 inch moldboard, then you should be going down 5 inches. The plow should be riding fairly level in the ground once at depth. If the angle of cut on the plow tip is right, the plow will only go down to that 5 inch setting - no need to have the lift cable hold it up. I struggled for years (mostly because there is only so much garden I can plow) before I got my moldboard set such that that I had both good rear traction and steering too. If the plow is going down to far, the draft is increased and the front want's to come-up. If the lift cable is holding the plow from sinking further down, you'll have great traction as the plow is pulling down on the rear tires, but the front is coming up. By no means would I consider myself an expert (or even close to it) on moldboard plow set-up, but the last few years out, I've had great luck in plowing both the year before's garden and some virgin soil. If you go to http://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/4/4.html?1364153109 there is a WEALTH of info there on moldboard plowing and set-up via their search function. It's all great reading. There is a great guy who posts there who is the best I've ever read regarding plow set-up. His name is Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow". His profile is here: http://www.ihcubcadet.com/cgi-bin/discus/board-profile.pl?action=view_profile&profile=sblunier-users - and check out the double moldboard plow he fabricated - impressive! It's OK to add a Yellow/White machine to your fleet - just don't trade a Wheelhorse for one... I'm interested in seeing how you make out with your plowing - I've got some to do later this Spring (once it quits snowing) and will follow-up with some pics and comments. Good luck! Bill Bill, thanks for this info. Everyone can benefit from this. I still farm with my family only on a part time basis. So, setting a plow is pretty simple for me. But, I do agree with Van, I may be asking too much of this smaller equipment and 150# of weight hanging out there on the front axle probably is a bit much. I plow most of my ground in the spring(for my gardens) as I don't need to worry so much about weed control. On the farm of course, time is money so fall tillage is the best answer and more herbicides are what we do. I just want to make the tractor a little stronger. I have never been a user of front wheel weights simply because of airing tires and general maintenance. The same with rear wheel weights. If I can use fluid in the rear I prefer to do that as well, without the use of rear wheel weights. But, I never really thought of fluid in the fronts. If the front end did lift with that, it most certainly would be easier on the axle. I know on our big tractors we use alot of front end weights but of course, the front axles are quite a bit larger and stronger. But trying to be a mini-farmer as well, I want to make my equipment stronger too. I am also working on some onland type implements and not mounted so that too could make a difference.

Been waitin for you to post some pics of the Snow up there Mark. Certainly had a bad time of it up that way. I wonder if Stormin over in Cumbria has had some of it as well. According to the Long Range 'Farmers and Growers', it's in for another week of -3c , bitingly cold Easterly winds and a risk of Snow over Easter . Daffodils are barely out down here, over a month late. I blame it on either Climate Change or Lars has a giant fan in Norway pointing West

Maybe should just keep a set of each...chrome, red, linen/white, and black on hand...for when his mood changes.

Dang, true that.

Finally...a good use for facebook.

Chas...always gets me how bad those spare transmissions can look on the outside...and there ends up being nothing wrong inside. Very nice job and pictures.

We have the 5.3 in our crew cab Chevy and it does a great job with our 6000 pound travel trailer.

.Spot on with the Fender/Guards design. look's the Dogz Ian. Oh ! and just spray the exposed foam on the seat Black....just to confuse Matt

OK, I went ahead and made my first rock shaft, it turned out good, so now i'm gonna make a few more to fit the Cxx5's and the 300,400, and 500's, oh yeah should fit the Cxx1's too. with the rock shaft, and the clamping technique, i think my buddy should not have any more trouble.

I second that.

Matt, I get the feeling he is hanging on to that seat just for you!

Captnb: If you scroll down under the the Picture Gallery section, you will see many photos of each of your tractors there. Also, all of their manuals are free downloads. Very impressed to see those in California, any idea of how they got way over there? . . . . . . (We like to hear the stories, . . . if you know). They are very desired tractors and getting harder to find. And, Welcome to Red Square !

Man, carlsbarn2, I was biten my tongue. But you said it, so I'm gonna second it. My C-175 is my main worker, it's an 8 speed and she's got power! Does whatever I ask of it. Oops gotta be careful of making strong statements, might get called out on them. Might have to prove it with videos, of course that might be fun too.

C-175 black hood rules !

I use Seafoam. I mix it into all my tractor gas, it's supposed to be a fuel stabilizer too (but I still run premium). Every once in a while I spray some down the carb at half or full throttle with my engine cleaning gun that I got at Harbor Freight. It worked wonders on my truck pouring it straight down the throttle body slowly so I'm a believer.

C 160 with two stage blower early hours December 2012

For the price if the condition between the two is the same I'd say the 520 is the better machine. Both the 518 & 520 used similar Onan engines, but that & sheet metal is about all they share. The 520H used a more "robust" Eaton 1100 series hydrostatic trans with a power output for hydraulic lift. It will raise a snowplow, snowblower, mower deck or a rear attacment with an optional rear lift. 520's also used heavier components throughout. The 518 used a smaller Eaton 700 series hydrostatic trans, these do not have any hydraulic power output. The 700's series tractors are also not recomended for "ground engageing" implements....(tiller or garden plow) & have been know to be somewhat weak. Both would make fine mowing machines. I'd still opt for the 520 & it's heavier construction.

Roto tillers and other attachments are harder to come by than tractors. Find a set of attachments. if the tractor they come with is no good, You can always find another tractor to fit your attachments. Joe

A c160 is one awesome tractor. They make great workers and can come with a manual or a hydro trans. 16 hp kohler cast iron!!! ~Jake

Howdy Guys and Gals!! I got this project almost finished Suprise,Suprise Every thing went along with out a hitch Here are the pictures hope i can get them in order I would like to thank the fellow RS members for the tutorials(stevasaurus and dgks6) most likely why I came out of this project with out any thing going wrong Chas