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I think that is the name of this current storm... A few pictures with the B-100 raffle tractor. 4 to 6" of gorgeous white stuff.

they are saying 8in -14in for us but i doubt we'll see that much. if we do i have my newest b-80 ready.

Thank You VERY VERY much!!! Gonna check the hubs first chance I get. I have never seen a hub wear like the one in the first picture, thats crazy. I'll let you know what I find. Thanks again, very good info. MYSTERY SOLVED!!!!!!! It is definitely the hubs, tons of axle movement mainly on the rt wheel. When I take it apart i expect it to look as bad (or worse) as the one in the above pic. Thanks to all of you for your time, the vids and the pics!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Great bunch of people here!!!!!

Wheel Horses multiply after you get two! The garage will be full next year. The only to control it is to just have one.

Was it wet or fluffy? I don't see any chains, You must have a "traction enhancer " on board. Nice ankles by the way!

My main work tractor is a pieced together 520H it's mostly a 1993 but the engine came from a Ingersoll but with a few parts swapping it fit, I have 26x12x12 ags in it 200lbs of suit case weights hanging on the back, and I use the crap out of this tractor, it's ugly but I love it, it uses some oil, but I just keep it full, anyways, I was plowing snow last week at my house then took it to my sons house to plow so it was plowing for about 4 hours 6+" of wet heavy snow, when the trans temp light came on, first time ever that happened, so I parked it for 20 min. and finished 45 min. of plowing the light came back on at the end, so I decided to change the trans fluid and filter, and while I was at it change the leaking axles seals, this poor tractor does not get the respect it deserves, I work it like a dog, well when I pulled the rear tires I see the fan is missing, the bolt had broke off in the end of the pump shaft that holds it on, no idea how long that has been missing??? I got lucky I drilled the bolt and used a easy out on it, it came right out, so I grabbed another fan and installed that, pulled the hubs one was junk it had a bad keyway, so I picked out another one, then on to removing the seals, hydro seals can be a pain because they are about 1/2" wide, and these came out very hard, it took about 45 min. to get both out, the new seals are not that wide, only 1/4" but I was please this set was metal, the last ones I picked up were plastic, I also figured it was a good time to put new woodruff keys in the axles, I spent 3 days trying to find some, I got one, but no others to be had local, so for now I put a used one back in, and I ordered 50 new keys so I should have them the next time I need one, and while I had it in the shop I figured it was a good time to check bolts, and was a good thing I found loose bolts all over the thing, nothing falling apart but not real tight, the trans had reg motor oil in it, and was still pretty clean, but had been almost 4 years since I changed it last, I bought Mobil 1 10w30 to put in it like my other tractors, I have a few filters so when I grabbed one, I remembered I bought a bunch of stuff from a guy and got some hydro filters for other brands, so I checked every one fit like it was made for it, Cub, JD and Simplicity, and they are all hydro filters, so my work tractor now has a Simplicity filter on it, before I did anything to the tractor I started it, and like most every time I had to let it set, before it would lift the blade, it was 25 deg outside, and it took almost 5 min. before it would pick the blade up, well now with the Mobil 1 in it, it lifts instantly, it's only 35 out right now, but I know it would still take a few min. before even at that temp, I should have done this a long time ago, like I have my other tractors, but like I said this tractor gets very little respect.

Hello all, I have been away from Redsquare and tractors for awhile but I am getting the bug again! I may have found one that I am interested in and I am hoping you guys might be able to tell me from the pic what model it is so I can do some research. The add says it runs good and comes with a blade, any ideas on what I should pay for it would be nice as well. Also I must say it is good to be back on this site.

Hi guys. Im new to the GT scene. My name is Kellen. I been collecting "1970s Vintage Trikes" for about 4-5yrs. Now im getting addicted to GT's. My first GT was a Gambles LM-18 Red Rider w/deck. Then I picked up a Sears & Roebuck David Bradley w/plow,disk,2 dozer blades, and deck. Now today I picked up a Wheel-Horse w/front mount blade, deck, and trailer. I am curious to the year it was made and what model it is called. I can post motor numbers if thats one way to tell year. It appears to have a HH55 alum. block Tec. Motor. Not sure if that is correct for machine or not but it looks like it belongs on it to me. Any help/info would be great to hear/see. Thanks in advance.

I just picked up a NOS Kohler K91 from and old wheel horse dealer. It had been on his shelf for around 50 years. Last year I bought a NOS Suburban hood from him which turned out to be a replacement hood. I'm sure that the engine has never been mounted or started and everything on the engine is new. There is no paint loss on the mounting holes or on the muffler or nipple pipe. In doing some research the engine was built in 1967 so it appears to be a replacement engine from wheel horse for either an RJ or Suburban. It does have some chips in the paint and scratches from being on the shelf. I am just wondering if I should just clean it up and leave it alone or maybe give it a nice new paint job and try to start it. Have a nice night. Thanks Dave The serial number on the K91 T engine is C182739 and the Spec # is 31388B.

thanks for the info, tt..... yes, looks like part of this type of cultivator. somebody used some of it and fabbed up the rest to mount behind a tractor......

Say NO to socks!!!!

Thank you

Better get some socks on before go around the block...you've got time, that snow will wait for you.

Is that grizzly adams plowing snow? lol

Send some snow Bunnies my way!

Yep were in the 8-12 inch area here in the chestnut ridges of the laurel mts. In sw. pa. Very windy now, guess its on it's way. Yea! Better check the fluids in the 73 C-160 auto, it's been doin a great job this winter with the 42" plow outfitted with the 1-1/4" hw. Pipe in place of the regular edge. Way less gravel peal and no lawn scalp at all, in fact I can plow across the lawn to my wood shed without damage to the grass. Hope to get some pics of it in action. I still can't get vids to load. Any pointers would be good. Pm me, thanks in advance to anyone with that skill set.

Steve's B-100 is an 8 speed. I've used an auto for snow-plow duty and it worked great coupled with hydraulic lift. Mike..............

I wish I were rich. I'd gather all the snow I could find, load it in a refrigerated truck and send it to him. I'd even throw in a couple of snow guns like they use at the ski slopes. Probably send some to Duke too!

Looks like we are going to get some of that white stuff here starting tonight! They have 8" predicted for my area. I hope that it doesn't turn to rain once it gets over the mountains. Oh, and what's that on your chin, Steve?

have the frame welded also made a new steering suport Brian

Look closer!! :ychain: :ychain:

It could be worn out pressed steel pulleys. My deck would mow the lawn but in heavy grass the blades would slow down and stop if I didn't disengage the PTO. The slide may not be working. I had to make the nylon blocks for mine and weld up the slide and grind it back down to make it work. I also used a set of Double-D cast iron pulleys that we bored out sleeved and faced off to fit metric spindles.

I am the 2nd owner of this tractor. Bought it off of the original owner (who was my neighbor) in 2001. Has a 48" belly mower, 50" tiller, 60" rear mower, plow, wheel weights, and Brinly sleeve hitch adapter. Hours are unknown cause the hour meter stopped working years before I bought the tractor. The current meter shows 860 hours. Kohler K532 Engine has never been gone into but the hydro pump was rebuilt about 3 years ago. The rear end has been gone into twice. Great tractor!!!!!!!!

I don't know of either being on a 416, but everything is bypassed when power is applied directly to the ignition coil.

If you give them a reason to stop you, they will nail you for something.

Another thing. Unless they have a roadblock set up and are checking everybody, don't give them a reason to pull you over. Don't speed,drive erratic, don't overload your trailer and have good tie downs.

My two non standard Wh's.. 312-8 fitted with 26x26x12 Kubota tires at the back on widened rims, roll bar, ag tires on the front and a battery/weight box on the front... It's looks have changed a little over the past few days, but it will return to this set-up in a month or two.. And of course

I'm with Lane on this one. When someone states "I like Lucas" and stops talking, that is just an opinion / personal preference and without further clarification, remains just an opinion. Manufacturers love to play Jedi mind tricks on the weak minded by advertising a product with bright colors that stand out on a store shelf or hope you like the "advertising" provided by a bikini clad model on a Saturday sales commercial masquerading as a hot rod show. She does try so hard to show us how to get the best performance out of a "rear end" or correct "sagging front end parts". Doesn't she? Next up is "because my friend says he gets more runs of a transmission when he uses it". Now we are getting somewhere and at least have an argument to be made for its use. Of course the argument is based on here say, but you do have my attention. I'm still listening for a reason this is so. Could it just as easily be attributed to a metallurgy change in the diff gears, not the lube? Could it be your friend is now better at setting up the diff's than before? Or gets a better 1 - 2 shift off with out jolting the diff as hard. Too many unknown variables for me to attribute the change in performance to just on factor. If you hear a statement like "Lucas puts XYZ additive in their product which has been "race" proven to allow ABC to happen, then I ask myself "No doubt then it is a benefit to racers. Do I realize ANY benefit by using a product twice to three times the cost of a product that lasted 10 - 40 years in the original transmission I'm tearing apart?" What you have here is a niche specific benefit. Prime examples are race-proven engine oils. I don't think racers are leaving this oil in their engines for 3000+ miles and for over 6 months. Ok. Synthetics are used by UPS. Interesting. Now I put down my Sunday paper down and you have my full attention. Lower viscosity weight oils in the rear axles you say. The whole fleet you say? I'm of the opinion someone ran the numbers on this changeover and saw a benefit. A fleet manager's reputation and career depend on such accurate analysis of the facts. Even if the benefit was 0.1 MPG more per truck than without this change - with the miles UPS travels, that's a no cost, profit generating addition after several thousand miles. They are on it like a dog on a bone. But they are still going to change out the oil before it ages and has a chance to collect condensation in the axle assy. Sooooo..... I ask myself is this any benefit to me in a LGT transaxle scenario. It may make you feel good 'cause you are using the stuff the big boys use, but unfortunately you're not using the WAY the big boys use it. If you want my hard earned dollars, show me (by the numbers or example - no opinions pleeeez ) a product that can provide long term resistance against absorbing water after exposure to condensation. Add to that at least the same or better protection than the original product provided. Those are attributes I can really use - and will pay for. Something that protects infrequently used assemblies subjected to adverse exposure to changing levels of temperature and humidity. Until then, I will probably just drain out the "regular" oil at $8 quart on a regular schedule versus hope the $20 quart "race proven product" gives me some as yet unidentified or proven benefit.

HERE"S MY C195 Brian

Speakin' of screws, what is the length, thread, on the three [3] screws holding the dip stick base on the Kohler 14 hp? Seems ridiculous to use slotted screws on the engine. Very hard to reach or see.

I bought this one for rims 12" or less. It is not rated for anything bigger than 12" and I would not recommend trying. I use mine for front tires only. Anything bigger I either do by hand or take to a service station. Although the larger model will handle tires down to 8", I understand the problem is the hub center of a garden tractor style wheel is too small to fit over the center of the larger changer. It's made more for ATV/golf cart wheels or whatever with larger hub centers. Hope that helps :handgestures-fingerscrossed:

My .02c.... $1300 is a lot of money, but without knowing what was replaced, what parts went in and what machining was done I dont think you can say "he was robbed". Genuine Kohler parts are expensive. But the quality is there, and there are a ton of 40 year old engines still running on their original parts out there. The cheapy import parts are attractive because of their cost, but I'm betting they wont last 40 or 50 years. Your $80 rebuild kit contains piston, rod, rings and gaskets. Its very possible that the engine needed a lot more stuff than just that -valves, guides, lifters. governor gears, crankshaft bearings? Machining costs add up too. Boring, crankgrind, cam grind, valve seats etc. And maybe the crank was too worn to clean up at .010" under? Even a weld up and remachine is reasonably expensive. Same goes for the cam, and maybe the block needed sleeving? I couldnt spend $1300 on a rebuild, but I do believe it is quite possible to do it if you are paying someone to do it. By the way, you can get a new K-181 for just under $1300: http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/product.asp?PN=K181-30538&desc=Kohler Sounds like this guy was wanting to keep everything original, so he chose to rebuild his original engine.