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Ok guys ive been a a member for quite a while and figured id share some pics of my toys. Some of you might remember me from my wooden seat mounted to the three point hitch on my GT14 at the WHCC club show when the GT14 was featured and great lakes show (HI KELLY). Well just thought id give posting a try P.S. who is DUKE.....HA

Sold my 310 the other night for 850, good for me......

Well today was the day to get the 520 ready for the season. Engine and trans oil changes, tune up, de-carbon the heads, and adjust the valves. This is the first time I have torn this tractor down since I got it last year. '96 model with 430 hours. Engine was very clean inside with so little carbon that some Gum Cutter and a towel removed it. Valves were out about 0.001-0.002. Did manage to break off a bolt in each head so that prevented me from getting done today. About the extent of the carbon in the heads Pistons/Valves Only took some solvent and a rag to get them clean Broke of bolts

Thanx for the compliments guys. joe papke helped me on the year of the senior. 1954 is what we came up with. and the gt has been gone through everywhere except hydro. picture of seat for the wife it connects to the 3 point and goes up and down

No preference on the sockets, but I do like my ratchets as I like my women, the more teeth the better !

We tend to be a bit low on active restoration projects in the Euro section so I thought I'd start a thread here rather than in the main section. Back in May last year I think it was a newbie raised the question ' Why no love for the A-800? which attracted a predictable response from some. Sure it is a vertical shaft tractor, it doesn't have a Kohler engine or Unidrive tranny, and worst of all (apparently) it has a Tecumseh engine but this little guy has cut grass for almost 40 years which must say something for the quality. So what attracted me to this as a resto project? (photos in this post are from the 'aution site' by the vendor so they're what made me go for it) The guy I bought it from was the second owner and had used it for fifteen years at his house in France to mow the orchard there. He got it from the original owner who by a bit of math must have mowed with it for about 24 years. He was only selling because one day it wouldn't start. He brought it back to the UK but couldn't work out why having checked and done the obvious things. My first ever WH resto was a C-120 Auto and it was the overall look of the early 1970s C-100, C-120 tractors that drew me in to WHs. The A-800 is by design a scaled down version in the same style as it's bigger brothers, Smaller wheels, narrower foot rests, shortened hood and ,despite their size, the rear wheels bolt onto hubs; to my mind the design team got it right. Obviously the fender is standard though in a way it's a pity that they didn't press out a narrower one so that the wheels extend beyond it like the Cs. It's tempting to do a 'cut and shut' to achieve this though it would go beyond 'resto' (I might yet be tempted though!) Its little two blade SD deck looks better in the photo than it actually is but has had new bearings, pulleys and belts fitted in the no too distant past and works but there's more plating than original metal in the shell though. It's not a priority for now but I can see that steel from a 42" shell I kept from a scrap deck could well come in handy in making good. Obviously there was a risk that there was something terminal with the engine but my experience with a Tecumseh 2 cycle engine on a 1972 19" flymo that I have been using to mow my lawn since the early 80s is that they made very good engines if you treat them well so it was a case of PO had cleaned the carb, checked wiring and I guess checked for a spark which I found tended to be there when you cranked the engine but stopped as soon as it fired and tried to run. Using a test meter on the points (by connecting it to the ignition stop wire) indicated the points were opening / shutting when you turned the flywheel by hand but putting a xenon timing strobe on the HT lead showed clearly that it was intermittent when cranked on the starter. It could of course have been a dodgy coil, condenser, or the points but I had other suspicions based on the symptoms that turned out to be the case.Took the flywheel off today to get to the points and found the prob. The post that the moving contact that rides the cam has to pivot on had dried up though lack of lube over the years. It hadn't seized but was stiff so although the points opened and closed when the engine was turned slowly they couldn't keep up once the engine started to run. Got it cleaned, lubed and back on then ran out of time but I'm 99% sure it will run tomorrow which will be interesting as it's in the workshop now (best open the windows methinks) I'll update the thread from time to time as I make progress but I'm not going to be able to work onthe tractor everyday. I'll be aiming to finish it for Ardingly though (famous last words) I suppose that I should have photographed it alongside the C-120 but it's in the shop now and I've started taking bits off so that will have to wait till it's finished. The photo's don't really do it's inherent charm justice and you really have to see it in the flesh to fully appreciate that it's a feisty little horse with attitude! WH actually made a snow blade for these which says a lot I think. Andy

hi guys I was wondering if any of you knew if a wheel horse pan will bolt onto a k301 out of a jd 112?. Thanks in advance

I have this very talented friend of mine who hand drawn one of my Wheel Horse tractors. It came out awesome he spent over 15 hours drawing it out of color pencils!! He's making me 4 Wheel horse tractors in one picture next. I told i might sell this one for him. Let me know what you guys think!!

hey guys im in the process of restoring my 71' raider 10. while the trans. is getting rebuilt i decided to sand and paint some stuff. but the hood and foot steps/rests have a lot of pitting. and the hood is rotted through. i was going to use bondo on the hood. then i panted the foot steps/rests and i really didnt like the way it looked with the pitting so i didnt put another coat on. my brother said y dont u paint them more and i said because i want to bondo it. but he said thats not a good idea because since its the foot steps and u will be goin on and off the paint will eventually wear and then u would see bondo not metal. and i agreed with him on that. any one have any ideas for what i could do with the foot steps/rests or should i just leave them??

Congratulations to Rich the February TOTM Winner

I'm kinda with Mitch here, I dont think I'd be too worried about it. It takes a while for the insulator to get that tan color that we get used to seeing. And it looks as though its getting a brownish ring around the centre electrode. I think I'd give it a few more hours work and then have another look, assuming that the engine is running OK. As Terry mentioned above, a good quick check to see if its running a little lean is to wait for it to get to normal operating temp and then try just a little bit of choke - if the motor likes it you are lean.

ive made a few myself and its quite easy to fab up

It's definitely the wrong shade of red. Welcome to RedSquare. Sent from my MB520 using Tapatalk 2

It worked fine. Thanks for the advice

This feels a bit like one of those family anouncements made for a new arrival but I picked up another D-200 at the weekend. It's a 1978 model and so has different decals and rear wheels to the 1977 model I restored last year. It immediately met with my son's approval but I must remember to give him the camera and sit on new arrivals myself one of these days as he's hogged the limelight on several occasions now. It was originally supplied for mowing only so there's no front to rear pto shaft, three point, or turning brakes. It was then used on a site to move caravans about so it hasn't had a hard life and hopefully the transmission has lots of life left in it. Basically it all seems to work except the electrical charging circuit. Just managed to squeeze it into the corner of the barn - sorry about the poor quality photo here but it was too cold to get it outside to give it a look over today. Its been seldom above freezing for more than a week now. Eagle eyed 'D family' members may notice some shiny new mufflers have been fitted. Suitable replacements for a D are hard to find and have been discussed before. I can't take the credit for these but the PO found a source that none of us had considered. I'll give more detal and post some photos soon. So..... in short, having become unhappy with just a 'double C' I have now achieved a 'double D' and no hormones or suplements were involved! Andy

I was trying to give someone here a deal on it for 700.00. I have two guys coming to look at it this Saturday for 850.00 thru my C/L ad. IMO it is worth all of 850.00. One of the guys has bought from me before so I know he is serious. Ken, It's great to see that there are still buyers out there who appreciate and recognize a quality product. It's obvious that you knew the value of your tractor, and I respect you for not selling it "at junk/scrap" price. I'm betting that the buyer is thinking he "got a deal" !!! The guy called me at 8:30 pm at night and he was here by 9:15, He told me he just bought a new house with one acre of grass to cut and he wanted a good tractor. He said he knew he wanted a Wheel Horse but he was having a hard time finding a nice clean one. He looked at Sears and Home Depot and was totally unimpressed with what they had within his budget. In all honesty I think he would have paid more as he couldn't get the 850 out fast enough.

I was trying to give someone here a deal on it for 700.00. I have two guys coming to look at it this Saturday for 850.00 thru my C/L ad. IMO it is worth all of 850.00. One of the guys has bought from me before so I know he is serious. Ken, It's great to see that there are still buyers out there who appreciate and recognize a quality product. It's obvious that you knew the value of your tractor, and I respect you for not selling it "at junk/scrap" price. I'm betting that the buyer is thinking he "got a deal" !!!

mower rowing the pto gaerbox a load of hay

I think I'd keep it all for handy parts. You could always rebuild it with whatever parts you have/ can get easily and full a rebuild at a later date when you find the correct parts.

i finally had time to look at this! OUCH!!!

I, myself, am not fond of the newer version, but may be more so now that I find I don't have to actually enlarge the pictures Mitch wants me to load in order to copy and paste them to this site. This old dog may not like to be taught new tricks , but sometimes caves in an learns anyhow . Thank you very much for the tutorial TT! Mama Puddlejumper.

Got it! Thanks Terry!

the problem with the bolts that broke off in the heads is that they don't go straight down in they go in on a slight angle so when you drill them out be careful, don't ask how i know this, but in the end it don't really matter because i have some heads that were drilled straight and retapped and works okay, but if you can do it right you should try. just a heads up eric j

Yes, You nead to check continuity through it, I have a few tractors out here that the ammeter is bypassed or missing . I need to buy a boxlot of them and put them back. As a sidenote try and check continuity or power through it without unhooking it,If you do try to unhook it be carefull that the terminals do not twist as you take off the wires, If they do its almost certain you will break the internals of the gauge.

Happy weekend everyone! I just received an email tonight from a woman who had a 400 series Wheel Horse from 1985. I asked for pictures and saw the model was a 417-8...then I saw her asking price of $100 I was stunned! I immediately called and made arrangements for pick up. It had the original manual with it when it was bought in March of 1985 for $2,749. When we got there, the horse was living in a shed at the bottom of a hill. We had made the mistake of forgetting a battery so we had to push it up the hill by hand to jump it...was worth the effort! Once we got some gas in the carb and the tank it fired right up and boy did that 17HP Twin Kohler purr!! Enjoy the pictures! I'll post more once she's cleaned up!

Ron, good to hear you are making progress, Trust me, no matter how long this takes the first time to fix, the amount of familiarization you gain from doing the troubleshooting is priceless. Once you fix this issue, you will stand back and think "I could have found that in 10 minutes if I had know all this stuff." Hang in there. As puddlejumper says, there are no right or wrong ways to troubleshoot. Some methods are more efficient and time saving, some methods teach you more and help further develop skills you will need if you continue in this hobby. There are always many different angles in which to approach any given problem. 90% of fixing a problem is identifying the issue, replacing the part takes the remaining 10%. Keep asking questions. We will help you thru to a final fix.

so as i said before i had been looking at a c160 well i finally made it to dayton and picked her up! upon initial inspection it looked pretty good no rust what soever everything is solid and square but im gonna need some parts. i plan on rewiring the whole thing because its been scabbed together so many times that im gonna be much better off just starting over. id like to get a new electrical connector that goes on the back side of the switch and just re do it all....ive read on here that using marine wiring is the best option for redoin a horse like this...why? i was plannin on shrink wrapping the entire harness just for added protection also. ive been searching everywhere for a new aftermarket harness but i dont think they exist. i also noticed that the carburetor is cracked right where it bolts to the head of the engine so ill need to buy a brand new carb or a used one if i can find it. by the way the engine did turn out to be the k341. the rod that runs from the clutch pedal to the rear end is gone and the little lever that it hooks to is broken so ill need the lever and the clutch rod here is the full list of parts i need: clutch rod clutch rod lever rear hitch and tach a matic carburetor maybe a new coil new throttle cable and choke cable battery spark plug wire maybe new starter.....solenoid not engaging im gonna try and free it up though if anyone lives in northwest ohio or within two hours and just so happen to have a bone yard id love to come ravage it lol! im also plannin on a repaint!! this is gonna be my pride and joy also looking for rototiller blade wheel weights and chains

Well if you need a dif lock and you cant keep traction then you probobly are doing something you shouldn't. Wheel horse did make a limited slip 10 pinion dif but it often broke. The pullers will tell you the an 8 pinion 8 speed is nearly indestructible and no modifications are needed. Weight and better tires will definitely help but if you still can't get traction then you need a bigger machine or wait till the ground is dry. I will admit though that on the farm we never had any tractors with dif lock and didn't need em, if a wheel slipped then you hit the turning break to make the dif switch wheels that worked 98% of the time if it didn't work then we should not have been on the feild.

there is little doubt that it is a plus 2tires pulling is better than 1(unless your trying to turn) but where do you quit. Its human nature to take things to the limit so if you had a locking or limited slip diff. then you(some) would push the limits for it and be weighting and chaining that for more traction also. And then some would push that to the point of breaking other parts of the tractor that were not built to handle it. I admit to considering a bolens around here due to the locking option for dragging things around but really if its that big I'll just use my truck or borrow a 4 wheeler if quarters are tight.

Winner: "rwilson". Congratulations Rich!

Happy Birthday guys. Hey Squonk, you ain't over the hill, or are ya? http://www.jibjab.com/view/LcDUEXiqSymZCnZkKuCgkA?mt=1

So apparently the term "subcompact" means "bigger than a garden tractor?" thats a bit confusing..How did that terminology come about? Is it something like: "the smallest versions of *big* tractors, but not counting garden tractors"? When I read "subcompact for mowing" I was thinking of something like this! Scot

here's the rear ones, right now im doing this >>>>

Here are some I put on my round hood, they would be basicly the same set up they used on your tractor, the mounting bar is factory, the lights are walmart $20 50w halogen driving lights, they are bright, I don't have any real good pics of just the lights, but can get some if you need them. Yes the wheels are not the right color, this was a few years ago before it was done. Another option you have is to buy a hood from a newer short frame tractor that has factory lights, I hate to see you cut up a nice hood, they are getting harder to find not cut as time goes on.

Rusty runs great now with a new coil and ignition module. And I must have done something wrong last night, because tonight when I checked the new system, I did as the manual suggested and checked the voltage on negative side of the coil with the positive side powered. As I rotated the fly wheel, the voltage triggered between 1 volt and battery voltage, just as a good ignition control should do. I put the engine on the the tractor and it lit right up and ran well. The hydro seemed to be fine also. I will run it through its paces tomorrow and then begin to check out the electrical. I still haven't hooked up the molex connector. I plan to use dielectric grease on the connectors and fuses before I connect the tractor wiring to the battery.