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This feels a bit like one of those family anouncements made for a new arrival but I picked up another D-200 at the weekend. It's a 1978 model and so has different decals and rear wheels to the 1977 model I restored last year. It immediately met with my son's approval but I must remember to give him the camera and sit on new arrivals myself one of these days as he's hogged the limelight on several occasions now. It was originally supplied for mowing only so there's no front to rear pto shaft, three point, or turning brakes. It was then used on a site to move caravans about so it hasn't had a hard life and hopefully the transmission has lots of life left in it. Basically it all seems to work except the electrical charging circuit. Just managed to squeeze it into the corner of the barn - sorry about the poor quality photo here but it was too cold to get it outside to give it a look over today. Its been seldom above freezing for more than a week now. Eagle eyed 'D family' members may notice some shiny new mufflers have been fitted. Suitable replacements for a D are hard to find and have been discussed before. I can't take the credit for these but the PO found a source that none of us had considered. I'll give more detal and post some photos soon. So..... in short, having become unhappy with just a 'double C' I have now achieved a 'double D' and no hormones or suplements were involved! Andy

My oldest son is getting into RC trucks now that he has a good job, and is building a scale truck, he wanted something different that no body else has a few weeks ago we whipped up a utility rack from some scraps, he liked it so much he bought the right size bar stock and we did a better job to fit the new body he has, it still needs all the welds ground, but that is his job, this is a 1/10th scale truck, it took 7' of 1/8" bar stock to built this and 5 hours of bending and welding, now to build all the stuff to hang on it and the tools, I have a gas powered RC truck and my youngest son has a rock crawler, I guess we might be playing with RC trucks this summer.

I've been wanting a space to display my Wheel Horse stuff for awhile. So my son came over today and we got a good start. Most of my stuff is in the Horse Hauler and its in the barn for the winter so will have to wait till I get down there. Was disapointed theres only room for 3 tractors but it will work. Got the Pond, B 145 Elec-Trac with fork lift & RJ 58 in there for now.

This ones a video

I added a very nice set of WH HL5 Head Lights to my restored WH Model # 653 today. They really add to the look of these little machines! I haven't got the wiring hooked up yet though. I may need a switch like the ones WH used back then.

Wheelbearing, here are a few pics of the storm clean-up from Wallingford, about 20 miles from you. We had about 38" from the blizzard. My wife works at the hospital in Middletown, glad we had snow tires this year. In the picture with the tractor in front of the garage, the two "bumps" in the snow to the left are actually two cars.

Just thought I would share a bit of life at the shop when we are not working.

Had a guy email me this morning with pictures of this here GT-1800! Pretty happy with the Twin Briggs and the hydraulic lift. Deck is pretty rotted but the spindles have been regularly greased and spin with no issues. Hopefully he will find the belt guards and ship them to me. This will probably be my last pick up for awhile as my herd is getting pretty full! Total cost for this one was $175. More picks to come once she gets cleaned up! More *pictures* to come.

well i'll take a stab at it. This is my 400 suburban. I bought it cheap from my local dealer, it was out behind his shop covered completely in vines. I pulled the vines back and knew I had to have it. It looked like crap. some would have left it there to rot. Took dad and I 4 years or parts gathering, E-tanking, sand blasting, priming and painting to make it look the way it does now. I do have a plow blade, sickle and a mower deck that need work for it they should be done this summer!! thanks for looking.

If your multimeter has a HZ or FREQ function, with the right amount of fussing and experimentation, you may be able to calculate engine RPM's from the HZ or FREQ readout. A few wraps of wire around the spark plug cable may act as enough of an antenna to pickup the high voltage pulse emission from the spark wire and allow the multimeter to see the interference / emission as a stream of pulses that can be interpreted as RPM. View the slides below. Depending on the engine, the spark plug is either fired once per 2 crank revolutions (coil based system) or once every crank rotation (magneto fired off the flywheel.) The difference is important to know as you will need a different mathematical multiplier to calculate engine RPM. I know, I know. Buy a $20 optical tachometer. I post his because the question was asked and understanding the principle behind this measurement allows for understanding on how all of the new "maintenance meters" function. All these $30 maintenance meters read RPM and calculate hours off detection of the electrical emissions from the spark plug wire. First, consider the coil based ignition system with a spark produced every other crankshaft revolution. Note the multiplier used is 120 to calculate RPM. Next is the magneto system with a spark produced every crankshaft rotation. Note the multiplier here is 60. It is also very import to note the orange wire does not make any electrical contact with the spark plug wire. DO NOT CONNECT THE ORANGE WIRE DIRECTLY TO THE SPARK PLUG OR THE CONDUCTOR IN THE SPARK PLUG WIRE. You could receive a high voltage electrical shock and your meter could be destroyed if connected directly to the spark plug or spark plug wire conductors.

Our newest addition to the family arrived on February 21.....this is child number 4 so we now have 3 girls and 1 boy. We named her Annabelle Marie. Pictured below is baby "Belle", myself and Tiffany (wife), and our other 3 children Kailyn, Ellie, and Kaleb. I am going to have a lot less time for the horses now that the family has gotten larger so check out the classifieds I am letting a few go but kinda wishing I hadn't sold my 4 wheel wagon since I can only fit 3 in the 2 wheel wagon as you can see from the picture below.

well after a few PM's with Chuck (SOI) and a lot of threads, I finally hooked up the scope to the coil and B+. Here are the results:- Top waveform is coil, bottom stator At tickover At full revs (I don't like the knocks from my engine at 3600rpm so the governer is set low) The new dash addition and the numbers behind the scope traces. So as we already knew, the coil runs at 2:1 - for every two revolution of the crank we get one fire (4 stroke). So if we get almost 7 a second we can double that to 14 and multiply by 60 for the RPM figure. As also discussed with SOI, the number of magnets and coils on the stator give us another multiplier as for every turn of the crank we get 18 cycles with comes to a frequency of 116Hz. The scope struggles to measure both simultaneously but gets close. What does this mean? well it means you could get a more accurate and easier to probe wire for a tacho/rev counter. The 28v pk/pk waveform is quite safe and it is much quieter than the coil - just look at those spike on the top trace. mark

That makes sense. You might hit a bump and spill your beer.........

Picked this guy up for $25. Got some plans for it already. The motor isn't original but it turns over and it's a kohler. It's a 1964 Moto Mower. The headlight part of the hood is cast iron and weighs around 30#.

Can't kill those things.

Wonder, any picts of that factory black GT available?

I HAVE A GT-1800. IT IS A GOOD RUNNING TRACTOR. MINE WAS PAINTED ALL BLACK FROM THE FACTORY. I HAVE THE ORG. BILL OPF SALE.

She loves it. I've been very blessed that my wife enjoys my tractor collection & shows. Infact the RJ 58 in the pic is hers & she wants to restore it her self. She also has a 1960 suburban 400 painted pink

now, what is all that "white stuff" all over those trees? down in Central PA, we might start to see some tree budding soon! Is it Spring yet? just seeing if the Weather gods might send us a Lion for March!! Does anyone use lion and lamb anymore for March?

...and do you love peaches Joe?

Nice tractor Jake.

Finished up the repliation of this Brinly serial No decal. Now to the main shop for the race party.

I rounded the decimal fraction of 20o to 360 as .05 instead of .055555555 and on and on. Makes a difference!!

Reducing enamel is done more for the sake of complete atomization thru a standard spray gun nozzle than any chemical reaction requirement. Before I would over- reduce an enamel, I would try a larger tip on the HVLP gun. Trying to spray a thicker enamel thru a sub 1.4mm spray tip requires reduction of the enamel to almost a water like consistency. I thought a 1.1mm detail gun would be a good addition to my gun collection - NOT. Over reduction of enamels will typically promote runs and drips and lack of gloss due to over reduction. Remember, reduction is less color / more diluent. I have an HVLP gun with a 1.8mm tip and requires very little dilution with reducer or solvent. I also invested in a 2.5mm gun this winter to spray metal flake on the bassboat this summer. Larger tips require a stout compressor to achieve good atomization and prevent orange peel effects.I'm going to experiment with the 2.5mm this summer on the cubs to see if I can get yellow to look better with less layers of base coat. You can reduce enamel with lacquer thinner - it works. But what you have done is add another unknown into the drying equation. The lacquer thinner will carry the enamel to the sheet metal but then you have to wait for the lacquer to evaporate to allow the enamel to begin to cure - remember - lacquer dries by evaporation of the solvent - enamels dry by chemical "curing" of the pigment and carrier when exposed to oxygen in the air. Do not spray lacquer thinner over dried enamel. the lacquer thinner will lift a dried enamel topcoat. Used as a solvent to get the enamel onto the tractor - it does work. Maximum dilution %'s are more related to remaining compliant with current VOC environmental laws than performance issues with the paint. But again, over-dilution of the basecoat has it's drawbacks. Speaking with the manufacture's tech reps may be useless as all tech reps these days are under strict rules not to deviate from the company's IFU's (instructions for use). I can attest to that from personal experience. If the company records your incoming call for "quality control purposes", a recommendation to use the product in an "off label" fashion could potentially be an EPA or FDA violation. Welcome to the new world rules.

Sometimes the TDC and S marks are very difficult to see (and in a couple cases for me never found). However, If the TDC mark is there the S mark is 20o clockwise on the flywheel. This equates to 1 1/2 inches on a 9.5 inch diameter flywheel. I guess if the TDC mark is difficult to find then the head will need removed to find the TDC. Once found paint the S mark for future reference. Disclaimer....As with most of my technical posts I may be full of bunk so unless this is confirmed by someone with better knowledge please disregard.......

Yikes, perhaps we can start a thread for all the injuries encountered related directly to our WH addiction? I guess my paper cut won't count!

Hi Tom, welcome to RedSquare. Good to have another euro-member aboard. You won't find a nicer and helpful bunch of Wh nutters anywhere else Have fun and don't forget to start a restoration thread about your C141

Nice tractor. I totally enjoy mine.

Had some time to work on this today Martin. the detail one will take some time but I think I can get it close.

To steal a quote from John Wayne...".You might be right" When he had no idea what the chinaman said.

No Tecumseh?

My small town allows golf carts on the town streets....They have to meet certain requirements. An older (almost blind) guy ride his mower to the C-store, Post Office and Bank. I noticed he has a "Golf Cart" sticker on his mower. I haven't asked him if the town cop told him he had to have the sticker. I however drive my tractor on the streets when I want to no matter what the reason. I never give it a thought that I could be breaking the law..... I will plead ignorance if and when I get "pulled-over". That's my story, and I'm sticking to it!

If the tractor is strapped down properly there is no need to leave it in gear, but with that said I almost always leave them in gear to keep them still when strapping or unstrapping the machine, again if strapped down good it can't move and will cause no problems.

SOI, couldn't find a shrubber to help me. I did find a herring though....

I'm with Lane on this one. When someone states "I like Lucas" and stops talking, that is just an opinion / personal preference and without further clarification, remains just an opinion. Manufacturers love to play Jedi mind tricks on the weak minded by advertising a product with bright colors that stand out on a store shelf or hope you like the "advertising" provided by a bikini clad model on a Saturday sales commercial masquerading as a hot rod show. She does try so hard to show us how to get the best performance out of a "rear end" or correct "sagging front end parts". Doesn't she? Next up is "because my friend says he gets more runs of a transmission when he uses it". Now we are getting somewhere and at least have an argument to be made for its use. Of course the argument is based on here say, but you do have my attention. I'm still listening for a reason this is so. Could it just as easily be attributed to a metallurgy change in the diff gears, not the lube? Could it be your friend is now better at setting up the diff's than before? Or gets a better 1 - 2 shift off with out jolting the diff as hard. Too many unknown variables for me to attribute the change in performance to just on factor. If you hear a statement like "Lucas puts XYZ additive in their product which has been "race" proven to allow ABC to happen, then I ask myself "No doubt then it is a benefit to racers. Do I realize ANY benefit by using a product twice to three times the cost of a product that lasted 10 - 40 years in the original transmission I'm tearing apart?" What you have here is a niche specific benefit. Prime examples are race-proven engine oils. I don't think racers are leaving this oil in their engines for 3000+ miles and for over 6 months. Ok. Synthetics are used by UPS. Interesting. Now I put down my Sunday paper down and you have my full attention. Lower viscosity weight oils in the rear axles you say. The whole fleet you say? I'm of the opinion someone ran the numbers on this changeover and saw a benefit. A fleet manager's reputation and career depend on such accurate analysis of the facts. Even if the benefit was 0.1 MPG more per truck than without this change - with the miles UPS travels, that's a no cost, profit generating addition after several thousand miles. They are on it like a dog on a bone. But they are still going to change out the oil before it ages and has a chance to collect condensation in the axle assy. Sooooo..... I ask myself is this any benefit to me in a LGT transaxle scenario. It may make you feel good 'cause you are using the stuff the big boys use, but unfortunately you're not using the WAY the big boys use it. If you want my hard earned dollars, show me (by the numbers or example - no opinions pleeeez ) a product that can provide long term resistance against absorbing water after exposure to condensation. Add to that at least the same or better protection than the original product provided. Those are attributes I can really use - and will pay for. Something that protects infrequently used assemblies subjected to adverse exposure to changing levels of temperature and humidity. Until then, I will probably just drain out the "regular" oil at $8 quart on a regular schedule versus hope the $20 quart "race proven product" gives me some as yet unidentified or proven benefit.

Last Wed. my new red and white seat cover came in. This was made by Brain's wife (Mrs. buckrancher) The work and materials and fit is A+. I am very pleased. Jim krazy_horse

Nice tractors guys!! GT14 are the best! Favorite tractor! The bars that are flat stock are Not stock. I've posted a picture of my GT14 loader backside. I would guess someone has improvised to make it work. Good Luck to both of you.

:omg: Whats this?????????? Ans: my son riding his latest project (not that we don't have enough in the workshop to be getting on with) It's a three wheeled Lister Autotruck. The concept was to replace the use of horses to move goods round factories and the design dates back to the 1920s. They proved to be a success and production continued until the early 1970s. Dating an Autotruck from its serial is difficult as no complete set of records appear to exist but based on general observations of detail we reckon this one is most likely early 1950s. The PO was selling to make space for other projects and although he'd never managed to get it to run had been assured when he bought it that it did. After 15 mins tinkering it turned out to be a duff spark plug and we had it running albeit rather rough and with a cloud of oil smoke which soon burned off and it was running well. My turn to have a go on the beast. They're quite fun but care is needed on unven surfaces as it's a bit top heavy with no load in the back (it can carry up to a ton!). The side /tailboards are removeable to leave a flat bed. My son drove it about a couple more times during the following week then it was into the workshop for dismantling. They were used in docks, factories, horticulture, by railway companies and even the Navy and Airforce had them. It has a 600cc (36.6 cubic inch) single cylinder JAP 4 stroke gasoline engine though from the mid 50s diesel engines were fitted.

Up for consideration is a 1987 416-8 with a factory Ark FEL and homemade backhoe.

Well here goes this is not really mine but my Daughter Hunter's tractor, its a 1967 857 with a few tweaks to her liking, it started as a basket case I was stripping for parts, but she wanted a short frame tractor and picked this one, it was built in about 6 weeks from start to finish nights after work and weekends, she loves it, and has guys drooling over it at all the shows, so I'm posting this on her behalf. Here is what we started with. and what we had in 6 weeks.

My new rear skins came in yesterday so my TORO dealer mounted em up (two old tires off the rims and two new ones on for $25, thought that was a good price). My plan is to not have to use chains for plowing so I went with an aggresive tread 23x10.5x12 tire mounted on wide 8.5" rims off a GT1848. Heres the pics I know you guys gotta have! I took plenty . Mike...........