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Hey guys, Got to plow some snow with the 702 again today! I would say we got about 3 inches here and its still coming down pretty good. Didn't have school today so I was very happy about that too! Here are some pictures, I don't have fast enough internet to upload a video but this is close to a video ~Jake

This snow is not even worth the trouble, but the B-100 was not running good the other day. The main fuel jet was clogged. So I figured I would take a trip around the block and make sure she was running good just in case we ever get that big snow. Just click on the picture...hope you enjoy...listen to this 10 hsp Kohler.

maybe you should buy some sand to push around Steve

:omg: Whats this?????????? Ans: my son riding his latest project (not that we don't have enough in the workshop to be getting on with) It's a three wheeled Lister Autotruck. The concept was to replace the use of horses to move goods round factories and the design dates back to the 1920s. They proved to be a success and production continued until the early 1970s. Dating an Autotruck from its serial is difficult as no complete set of records appear to exist but based on general observations of detail we reckon this one is most likely early 1950s. The PO was selling to make space for other projects and although he'd never managed to get it to run had been assured when he bought it that it did. After 15 mins tinkering it turned out to be a duff spark plug and we had it running albeit rather rough and with a cloud of oil smoke which soon burned off and it was running well. My turn to have a go on the beast. They're quite fun but care is needed on unven surfaces as it's a bit top heavy with no load in the back (it can carry up to a ton!). The side /tailboards are removeable to leave a flat bed. My son drove it about a couple more times during the following week then it was into the workshop for dismantling. They were used in docks, factories, horticulture, by railway companies and even the Navy and Airforce had them. It has a 600cc (36.6 cubic inch) single cylinder JAP 4 stroke gasoline engine though from the mid 50s diesel engines were fitted.

I thought you lived on a farm?...Why are you plowing snow in the middle of the woods?... Great pics though... :thumbs:

Awesome Jake. I need to find a blade for my lawn ranger

3" of snow in Michigan and there's no school???? I figured Michigan would need around 60" before the schools closed.

Well now I feel even dumber. Took the charge relief valve out and found it had the heavy spring as used on the implement relief valve. Now I am telling myself that the pump I worked on must have come that way...I could never do anything that stupid. Anyway put in a lighter spring and retested... Charge pump was about 110 lbs went to 400 while the lifts operated then went to almost 700 when the lifts hit full travel. Was going to take her out for test drive but it started snowing. Anyway thank you Andy and James!!

You need one of those rotary broom attachments for that dusting you got there. :ychain:

:thumbs: You are right Steve, there is nothing like the sound of a 10HP Kohler in the morning, or anytime for that matter.

And it's still going to be the most watched sporting event of the year. Go figure. I guess it must be Beyonce at halftime.

This statement is true but you forgot the Wisconsin Cheeseheads :handgestures-thumbupright:

Hey Mike, how ya doing? Remember, I picked up some parts from you on the way to the Big Show a few years ago. First, you are trying to put together a #5010...on the outside, the brake band mount is at a 45 degree angle. If you have a trans with the brake band mount at a 90 degree angle...that is a #5003 (58/59 RJs). All of the parts are interchangeable. The tooth count comes into play with the 2 types of differential gear housings and the brake shaft gear.. As long as you match the two, you can use either combination. (see video link). I think you will find that at least one of your sets of axles are OK. You can drill a roll pin hole in the hub end of the axle and flip the axle over. All bearings, bushings and seals are available...(see chart). I've been rebuilding these transmissions lately, and have done some videos, and charts to make it easier for the members to get into this. Electrolysis works good on the rusted gears. There is plenty of help here if you need it. Take some pictures and let us know. SUBURBANS & RJ 58/59 TRANSMISSION CROSS OVER CHART FOR THE WH # 5003 AND # 5010 TRANSMISSIONS DESCRIPTION..............................................................WH #......................VENDOR..........QUANTITY...........SIZE BRONZE BEARING (AXLE)..........................................1503.......................CB-1618-12..........2..................1" X 1 1/8" X 1 1/2" BRONZE BEARING (DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING)..........1517.......................CB-2224-14..........2..................1 3/8" X 1 1/2" X 1 7/16" need to cut to 1 1/2" INPUT SHAFT & OUT END OF BRAKE SHAFT.............1519........................S8K ground..........4..................3/4" X 1 5/8" X 5/16" CLUSTER GEAR SHAFT & 11/44 GEAR BASE............1502........................NICE 412-35........3..................3/4" X 1 5/8" X 3/8" INPUT GEAR NEEDLE BEARING.................................1518........................B-108...................1..................5/8" X 15/16" X 1/2" BRONZE BEARINGS (CLUSTER GEAR SHAFT............1504.......................EP-1214-12..........2..................3/4" X 7/8" X 3/4" BRAKE SHAFT (NEEDLE) IF YOU HAVE THIS............1508.......................B-1212.................1..................3/4" X 1" X 3/4" SEALS AXLE (FROM TORO ONLY)..(CAP)...................1257.......................83-2840...............2 SEALS INPUT SHAFT & BRAKE SHAFT (BALL BRNG)..1234......................741643 timken......2 SEAL BRAKE SHAFT (IF NEEDLE BRNG).....................1303......................7410 skf................1 All of the above is available from Motion Industries, except the axle cap seals (Toro only appros. $18.) and the NICE 412-35 bearings (available from ksodirect.com...(http://kscdirect.com/item/GEN%2B22603-01/INDEPENDENT%2BDISTRIBUTORS%2BCOOP_412-35%2B%2BA-4852A%250A). You have to cut your own gaskets...KEROPAK 12" x 36" x 1/32" ($6. from auto Zone). Another link with some videos...the 5003 is basically the same as the 5010.

there is one of these shown on american pickers , a centuar model. its at 18:00 min into the show here - http://www.history.com/shows/american-pickers/videos#american-pickers-haunted-honey-hole

Bead sealer is the name it's from Tech LOL

My superbowl was watching the 49ers beat up on the Packers Now I am just hoping for a good close game but if I had to choose a side it would be the 49ers.

Don't use bicycle chain, it's too small and will roll over on the tire. You should have no problem using #40 roller chains on a gravel driveway. You will notice a huge difference right away and if you add some front wheel weights it will steer like it's on rails.

Hank lookin good Pal If Yer Head is Crooked may I suggest A Qt of Duke's Apple Juice! I gaurantee if it dont straighten up yer head it will make you feel loose as a GOOSE! After that it wont much matter. :eusa-whistle:

come on mike, theyre not that noisy!!!!! kent drove around kellys show all weekend this past year on my 1277 with one of those mufflers and i didnt hear any complaints at all........ well not that many, anyway....... :wicked:

So far quantity and quality of snow here in CT has been lousy. Have not used the blower yet this year, only the plow. Here are a couple of pics from 2010.

Had to go watch my Daughter cheer tonight, but before we left I got the left fender all tack welded up, and the holes drilled to mount it. Inner rail mounted, and upper brace on. Inner brace installed after getting the fender all tacked up, I pushed it outside to clean up, so I took a few pics. I figure by the time I have the fenders and footrest all welded up, I'm going to have about 25 or so hours into them, but I think it was worth it, I hope sometime this weekend to get the fan guard all built.

It's very good advice.I own one.In my silly defense it was a new unknown runner and I literally just purchased the battery that day so I overlooked the easy.That's why I stood back,took a breath and consulted another opinion.I used to step back and have a cigarette,that always seemed to solve everything.Must of had some smart stuff in them coffin nails but I quit two years ago.Now I get on the internet,cause everything you read here is true!Thanks again for the help!

Me thinks maybe You Da Man SaveOldIron! Have Solder / Will Travel. (Wyatt aka Palladin! for those from back in the day B/W TV shows.) Thanks to all who participated. Maybe the Kirk Points Saver is the culprit. All I care is it now the Strobe works correctly! Problem SOLVED!

Mission Accomplished! Here's what took place. I used alligator clips to connect the + Battery to the Radio Shack "Choke", then another clip from Choke to the + tip of the cigarette lighter plug. Side of plug grounded to the - Battery with clips. Off the flash rate was fine at 2 per sec. Started Kohler and erratic flash rate. So I soldered the .01uf Capacitor to the power leads (photo below) and it tested fine at 2 flashes per second both off and running, problem solved. Since the Choke was just clipped to the + I decided to remove it to see it the .01uf was the solution on its own. Removed the Choke and it still flashed at normal rate without the choke Kohler off or running. Decided the 01uf was the real solution on its own so unhitched the clips and plugged the cord into the lighter socket under the seat. Flash rate ok off or running. Problem solved. The choke from radio shack had a copper wire coiled around the outside and it actually became farily warm while testing. I removed it since it ran fine with only the 01uf Cap soldered in. Never got as far as needing the 470uf "bathtub" so might just have to test that reverse connection, but not on my C-125! Maybe on a spare battery! Thanks SOI. Your first inclination worked well, just adding the capacitor to funnel off high frequency noise to ground. I had plenty of room under the circuit board so I left the Cap hanging straight from the board, no need for a strip of electrical tape since it hags away from any part of the board. Point of information, the lighter socket was a Walmart special for a couple bucks since the strobe came with the male lighter plug. I clipped the socket wires to the rear light wires under the seat using a small hole in the seat pan so the socket sits under the seat and has a cap for keeping dirt out in non-winter running.. Did I ever say this site is a great resource for sharing ideas and solutions! Thanks again. Wyatt

Here is one of the few I have built