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Very pleased...completed my 1st PT visit today. I'm now wearing two shoes, and bearing some weight while walking on crutches. This coming Monday will be one month since the day of the accident...feels like I'm back on the fast track. :handgestures-thumbsup:

I bought this about a month ago from a friend of a friend. I was told that it was his grandpas tractor and it hadn't been touched since his grandpa passed away about 10 years ago. His grandapa repainted a lot of it and it looks like he did a good job too. I pu tsome gas in and jumped the battery and it fired up after a few seconds and ran pretty good. I haveno clue what I'm going to do with it but I couldn't pass it up for 50 dollars.

A few months ago I rescued my buddy's WH for $200 that had been sitting in a barn for a few years. It has a newer HM80 that seems to run great. So this winter I'm doing a restore; so far I derusted the front wheels and added some try-ribs. Last week I sprayed the black engine pieces with some Valspar IH red.

taking apart the $10 flea market find WH seat (sorry for the poor pictures..too much Dunkin D) looks like a mouse went up through the drain hole and hollowed out a pathway and there was multicolored yarn/string! So the missing foam, I'm just gonna cut pieces rather than try to peel the foam from the vinyl. the vinyl seat has 2 pinholes but otherwise is good condition. the seat pain has 4 coil springs? not like my B-80 seat. rusty and will need to saw the bolts off and fix the cracks at the holes. rust removal will be the trusty E-tank if we get a warm day to place it outside. not sure what seat bracket this was off..200 series?

Well we went to the south lakes for the weekend and managed to get caught up in the snow there... luckily the land rover managed to get us back in one piece despite some good piles of snow. When we got back there was an 8 inch carpet of fresh snow... yeah you know whats coming next well I had to go for it, here I am perched on a 3ft pile of snow So that was it after 2.5 hours a big pile of snow. By early evening the rain came and pretty well wiped all the snow out :(

I would make sure that the machine shop has the rod in hand before doing anything to the crankshaft. He should measure the rod/crank pin clearance before and after polishing.

Thanks TT

Yes - With the proper alterations, 102118 & 102119 replace many different older part numbers. I want to know if the genuine Toro/WH throttle cable has the same cheap plastic knob that falls off after a few twist-to-lock cycles.

Good question.... unfortunately one that will probably never be provably answered. Those are records that just don't exist as far as anyone knows. Companies weren't required to keep such records back then, especially not small "out of your garage" kind of companies like Wheel Horse started. We know that they began exporting overseas with at least the RJ-58/59 since both articles and prices lists have turned up in the UK. So presumably exports to Canada would have started before then, during the "Pond" years. I like the topic Jim.. Thanks. Anything you can't find in the basement, you let me know. I've got a pretty good flashlight.

Search Engine is invaluable on this excellently managed Forum. I use it all the time using a similar process to Martin's and I'd say 90% of the time I find what I'm looking for. I'm not one to just post a question because it is easier and rely on the forever helpful regulars to answer the same questions over and over again...... Saying that though, it will produce more results for your particular search !!!.

Maybe I could rent that, to help me locate WH's in my neck of the woods :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling:

I want to thank everyone for the help...... well here is the outcome ..... first I found out my tractor is a 1988 310 B with a 8 speed...... and found a 8 speed for $65. so I replaced it and will work on mine for a back up or to help someone else out ....... I have attached a pic of my tractor will be on to chat later thanks again..... back plowing snow

yes, its a stand still pic, but only to take the pic by me. otherwise hes plowing in first gear and I had to push the clutch in for him to stop. then I did the side walks....it works great!!!!! :)

centering pin with a weight bracket

Indy, These tractors are very simple to own and maintain. They were built to last from quality materials, unlike the Big Box junk you see everywhere these days. All the knowledge and help you will ever need to keep your 312 going is right here. Like Van said above, that tractor will last you the rest of your life if you want it to.

I think what you are describing is fairly normal, the blower on the ground does seem to take the weight off the front wheels. I lift the blower when I want to maneuver the tractor. In my experiance, front turf tires suck in the snow. Tri ribs work a whole lot better, I havent tried the roller chain thing but those who have swear by it. The lift assist spring makes a huge difference, Lifting the blower becomes less effort than lifting a dozer blade.

Do you have the lift assist spring set up for the blower. It is a spring the hooks on the flag part & the bar for the front of the foot rests. I found that when set right the spring lifts up enough on the blower to keep weight on the front tires while the blower is down. Makes it steer a whole lot better & lift easier. Here is a pic of what I am talking about.

6wheeler honestly I don't remember a lot of the older western TV shows, I do know some of the John Wayne, Clint Eastwood westerns as well as Steve McQueen & his Mare's leg. I'm no expert on the AK-47, common round in them is a 7.62x39 (around 30 caliber centerfire), millions produced, designed in Russia by Mikhail Kalashnikov, officially known as the Avtomat Kalashnikov & went into service in 1947. The M16/AR15 was designed by Eugene Stoner back in the 50ies, but was put on hold when the military chose the Springfield M14 over it. Colt later picked up the design and became standard issue in the Vietnam War. Thats a pretty condensed version too. The AR does not stand for "assualt rifle" that term was brough about by the media. It stands for Armalite whom Stoner worked for when he started with the design of the rifle.They are chambered in 5.56x45, most modern AR15 rifles can shoot both 5.56 & 223 Remington (a very fast .22 caliber centerfire)...they are very similar with the head spaceing being a little different. (NOTE although a 5.56x45 cartridge may be able to chamber in a rifle be it bolt, lever, or semi auto action ment to chamber .223...do not do this unless the firearm is designed to shoot both styles of cartridges) Yes & very, google Camp Perry National Matches. http://www.odcmp.com/NM.htm I practice with mine out to 200 yards, but could shoot farther with a longer range. Though 200 yards is my practical range with the over the counter ammo, rifle twist rate, style of rifle I'm useing....& my eyes. One of the neat things about the AR rifles, they are highley adaptable & customizable. They make a very nice varmit rifle in stock trim. They can be modifiied for larger rounds (up to a .50 caliber) used to hunt deer, wild pigs & other similar sized game. I would say that both the AK & AR perform fine in freezeing temps....I don't however so can't say firsthand. We are not exactly close 6wheeler, but if you make it down this way & have time, look me up. I'll grab some of my AR's & we'll head to the range. Tony...I don't think the Mossberg tactical lever design has been very well received. If you want a new one...you'd better hurry before Mossberg comes to it's senses. I bet chances are good you may find a dusty brand new one at a gun shop for a good deal though.

The PTO should have a brake on it. If it is not properly adjusted, or the PTO is not fully disengaging, it will continue to spin. Take a look at the PTO brake adjustment procedure in your owners manual. It's on page 24. If you don't have a manual, one can be downloaded from the manuals section. Even thought the title says B-Series, it covers the C-121

http://www.maritimedragracing.com/antique_auto_parts_cellar.htm fuel pump rebuild kits

Yesterday after work I mocked up a dash panel with some cardboard, just to see if I could come up with a lay out I liked and make all the gauges fit in the space I had, there are a few supports in the main part of the dash I had to work around. Here is what I came up with, room for all 4 gauges, two light switches, key switch, and the throttle. Today I built the real dash with some 1/8" thick aluminum I had here, cut out with a jig saw at this point. Here I have the steering column hole and mounting screw holes in, and all the sides trimmed and finished. Main holes drilled, I still at this point need to make the slot for the throttle, and file the flat sided hole to mount the key switch, but it is looking better. after 4 hours of cutting, drilling, filling and sanding here it is, everything fits nice, and yes I have two hour meters in there, I still need to order another gauge for the 4th hole, more on that later, but I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out, I will probably just paint it black for now, but I plan to send it to our decal guy here and have him make a dash overlay decal with all the lettering on it.

The boot on the Wheel Horse manual/Uni-Drive transmission is a BIG DEAL -no doubt about it! As an item of maintenance, and a sign of BIG LOVE FOR YOUR WHEEL HORSE -BUY a NEW BOOT when the old one shows a tear or a lot of wear! And buy one from your dealer if you can as the sell them generally for less than the Toro listing.

Drop down 9 or 10 topics to tecumseh h60 on this forum kiwi has some pictures posted that are the way all of mine are hooked up. It looks like you are hooked directy to the govenor and there should be a spring in the equation that will allow the govenor to do its job as it is now it cannot adjust itself.

Had an old wheel horse dealer tell me a very good temporary shifter boot is a toilet bowl flapper with slight mod.

The 10W30 oil will be as thick as 10W oil at 0 degrees which is thinner than what 30W would be at 0 degrees. When the engine is warmed up the 10W30 will be as thin as 30W oil would be at that temperature but not as thin as what 10W oil would be. Didn't want somebody thinking that the multi viscosity oil thickens as it heated up....I guess to be accurate....it doesn't thin as much....somebody stop me before I hurt myself....

I was fortunate enough in the 70's to grab a few extra $$ repairing tv's and bought a Roberts 8 track recorder back when they first came out. Funny how you can become Mr. Popularity when you are able to record albums onto 8 tracks. I don't think I ever bought an album or 8 track until I got out of school. I do recall the first tape thru the recorder was the YES ALBUM. The quality challenged some of the reel to reels of that era.

Excellent - I did not scare you away. You passed the first test. I am sure how much of a trek it is to the Radio Shack store, so if another $1.50 is not going to break the bank, pick up one of these also Model: 100 µH RF Choke | Catalog #: 273-102 This should bring back memories from the 70's of the puttering noise in your new 8 track player caused by alternator "whine". Maybe, just maybe, we can place one of these pieces outside the strobe light to cure the issue. You mentioned earlier about not fully grasping the theory of what we are doing. The issue will either turn out to be electrical voltage spikes coming in to the strobe thru the power cord or electrical impulses being broadcast by the spark plug wire being "received" by the strobe light timer circuit. Either condition will falsely instruct the timer to fire and increase the frequency of the lamp flashes. Note, the spark plug "broadcasts" a high voltage RF pulse 60 times per second at 3600RPM (some add on tach's and timing lights depend on this "broadcast" from the spark plug wire to function). In addition, the primitive style voltage regulator of the C series is spewing out DC voltage pulses at about the same rate onto the electrical circuit of the tractor. A healthy battery may be able to supress most of these pulses. A battery with some age will not be able to supress this interference as well as a fresh battery. Does your 312 have a newer battery than the c125? Just a thought. The issue with the 312 may be explained if a magnum series engine is on the 312. The Onan style regulator on the magnum may be a more advanced and less hostile regulator toward modern day electrical accessories. The .01uf cap will act as short only to high frequency ac signals - any DC voltage across the leads of the cap will not be affected. This characteristic allows any high frequency noise pulses from the regulator to be diverted away from entering the (+) power line of the strobe. Placement of the capacaitor in the strobe will divert any power line pulse pulses. Any interference that is transmitted from the spark plug wire and "received" by the coiled wire power cable (antenna) will also be diverted back to gorund. The RF choke acts has a similar effect. Instead of diverting the impulses to ground it simply is electrically too slow to react to them and fails to pass the quick impulses up the power cord to the strobe. If this issue turn out to be a power line issues only and not a spark plug noise issue, the RF choke may solve the entire problem. If you pick one up tomorrow, the first thing I would do before digging back into the strobe would be to alligator clip the RF choke in series with the (+) tip on the cigarette lighter plug to battery power and alligator the negative tab on the cig plug to tractor ground. Again, this one addition may be enough to solve your issue. Thanks Wyatt for taking the time to investigate this issue. I'm sure it will help others if they run across this same issue. Hopefully we will have a $3 fix for them.

Thanks SOI. I appreciate the expertise and help! Wyatt

Ok tonight I directly connected alligator clips to the battery terminals and to the plug end tip + and the side band - . Results are when Kohler is off it strobes an estimated constant 2 flashes per second. With Kohler running it was very sporadic. Flashing maybe 3 times fast (to fast to count) then stop 1/2 second then 4 to 6 fast flashes then stop 1/2 second then 2 flashes then stop. Disconnected and try again and this time it did a constant very fast flash like in the socket. Then next time back to morse code on and off spurts. As soon as the key is turned to off back to steady flashes at 2 per second which is the way it should function. I then plugged it back into the original socket wired to the rear lights and it was back to the same steady really fast flash maybe as high as 10 times per second. So fast almost looks like a steady yellow light so it did not change and I didnt fry anything (yet). Duke I have a 1970's multimeter I used while in the Air Force. It still functions 40 yrs later. They were upgrading so these went into the trash and my work cabinet. I have never used the DC Amp function but did try it inline on positive side while engine off and running. The highest setting is 10A but strobe did not flash either off or engine running and needle did not move. Turned to 500m setting, (whatever that means) and strobe flashed fine with engine off but it pegged the needle, then engine running it was erratic flash and needle pegged. Save Old Iron I am foolish enough to try adding the capacitors as shown. Is there a difference between + and - on them and are they labeled? Do both get soldered across the + and - where the red and white power wire ends are soldered? I have not dealt with circuitry since the Air Force years ago and when I did, it was repairing aircraft radios (Tube type radios in F-100's, weighed in at 70lbs !) so I know enough about circuits to get in trouble but not afraid to give it a go anyway. Have no clue about the electrical theory behind it tho. So I walk into Radio Shack and ask for a 0.01uf capacitor and a 470uf 35Volt capacitor? Any voltage limit on the .01uf? I have a 25 watt soldering iron so it won't be too hot for the board. Funny 2 years ago my 46" Samsung LCD TV started having 1000 pink dots within the picture then it started to take up to 2 minutes to start and light up. Youtube had a dozen people that repaired theirs by replacing 3 10v 1000uf capacitors. It was pretty straight forward solder job. I couldn't find the replacements at Radio Shack so went to a TV repair shop. The guy says you have a Samsung right? Sold me the 3 for about $1.50 each. Said Samsung sends him theirs brand capacitors for warranty repairs and he throws them in trash and installs a 15v replacement. Said the circuit is 12 v and the originals are 10v so they are undersized. Nice huh? Here are a couple clearer photos of the circuit board if that matters. 8 stacks of 8 LEDs. WIil see if Radio Shack has them this weekend. No stores nearby. Thanks for the help to all who responded.

IS THEIR ANY CHANCE WE COULD HAVE A MEET AND GREET AT YOUR FARM ?

They don't just collect any old tractor they can find. They look for the odd and rare ones. The grandson of the founder told us that one of the large prairie tractors they have is one of three left in existence. The grandfather paid $80,000. for it in 1985! At auction today he said it would go north of $400,000. They also have others that are one of's only a handful known left. It's hard to wrap your head around the fact that everything they have actually runs and operates. I have seen large collections before but many were static only and maybe a few of the displays actually ran. This collection is just amazing!

:text-coolphotos: Looks like one cool show!

Wow...that's amazing.!! Looks like an awesome day.

Wow Great pics Thanx for sharing

Not one in the collection?

I KNEW YOU WOULD LIKE IT. WHY CAN'T WE HAVE A MEET AND GREET UP THERE THIS FALL ? DID YOU SEE THE GARDEN TRACTOR SHED ? RUSS