Leaderboard

My little brother is still in High School and plays basketball for a small private High School. He's made the radio's poll for performer of the week this week. Can you all do me a favor and help him win?! I have no idea what he wins... heck it could just be the glory of winning the poll for all I know. He's just my little brother and he asked for my vote. No login necessary or anything, just go to this website and vote. That's it. http://www.channel1450.com/ Thanks!!

well here is my entry for January tractor of the month It is my RJ35 which i bought from Mike Martino , i am currently waiting to have it shipped to UK , when i can gather some pennies together to send it on its long trip. There will be only two Rj 35s in Uk one of which will be this one and the other which is owned by fellow member Chris Sutton. I was delighted to be offered to buy this one from Mike Martino especially as we all know Mike from being the Author of Straight from the Horses Mouth , so it will make the tractor a special addition to my collection. This is my 4th tractor that i have imported to UK now , the others being my RJ58 653 551 suburban and now my RJ35 Round hood tractors are so rare in UK that the only way of ever being able to own one of these great little machines was to have one shipped over from US , but unfortunetly due to the Wheelhorse addiction i had to have another , so now my current roundhood collection now stands at 9

Well here goes this is not really mine but my Daughter Hunter's tractor, its a 1967 857 with a few tweaks to her liking, it started as a basket case I was stripping for parts, but she wanted a short frame tractor and picked this one, it was built in about 6 weeks from start to finish nights after work and weekends, she loves it, and has guys drooling over it at all the shows, so I'm posting this on her behalf. Here is what we started with. and what we had in 6 weeks.

After some inspiration from a few members for wheel weights and chains, I decided to put my thinking cap on and design some tire chain tensioners and wheel weights for my D180. I found some spring type tensioners from a few vendors on ebay, but decided that none of them had enough springs to do an adequate job. After some hunting, I ended up finding some springs at Home Depot, but they ended up being too long. So I cut each of them in half, then heated the end and formed a new loop in which to pass a 1/8" vinyl cable through. Purchased 4 springs for each wheel, which gave me 8 springs per wheel when I was through. Ended up with just the right amount of tension to tighten the springs equally all the way around. More to follow... Seems I can never add more than 4 pics at a time.

im finishing up on my 1054 mower. the key switch up and down is on and it turned sideways is off. is this normal. or just turn the switch and turning the key left is on. the issue is, you cant take the key out when its off. its wired perfectly to the manual. any productive thoughts would help.

Maybe I'll bring my dump cart so he can "ride around". That would make a funny video for Cruise Night. "Here's Craig riding in a little dump cart enjoying an "Adult Beverage" going around and around the fairgrounds. :ychain:

I would agree with no less than 24' deep. I have a crew cab with 6 1/2' box and that leaves me with anout 3' behind truck and about 1' in front when parked in garage. My garage is 8' tall. I agree with putting in 1 large garage door since it does not limit the width. If yu ever have camper style mirrors you will appreciate the double door. The bigger garage you can afford the better, you never have enough space. (They fill up faster than you would expect). Also regarding the floor pad, I would go with 4" minimum and 6" on an exterior pad if pouring one. The thickness of concrete is usually done depending on expected load. I am not a concrete person but have heard good things about the fiber mesh, would think rebar would be overkill for your application. Here is mine 24' X 24' works great but filled up fast.

I will have to agree with the wages being a small part of the problem, I agree with enviromental protection but we have regulated it to the point we have tied our own hands, Its hard to compete when everybody is not playing by the same set of rules. Same problem with safety, I agree with it,but its became a industry here on its own accord taken way to far. I would like to blame lawyers,Insurance, and civil suits for it but I am not sure who to point the finger at there. And last but not least we need to quit buying all the little unneccessary trinkets from over there and quit sending them our hard earned money for garbage trinkets and toys that dont last 2 days. THEY ARE A COMMUNIST COUNTRY they couldnt conquer us on the field but they are going to own us anyway if things dont change.

That's an age old question which seems to defy a straight answer - so I won't attempt one. However, a little advice distilled from years of trial may be in order. I only use spray cans in the winter when HVLP spray gun use is not possible. Over the last few seasons, I have met with increasing success following a few simple rules. Age Whatever brand paint you use, use the "freshest" cans available. If you have a choice of pulling the first 3 cans of Regal Red Rustoleum from the self or the last 3 - go for the last 3. They may be the most recent manufactured date. If you see cans with dust on the tops and cans without dust - go for the clean cans. I do believe Rustoleum publishes a FAQ on how to decode their date stamps imprinted on the spray can bottoms. Shake Well Pay no attention to the "Shake for 1 minute" instructions on the can. Shake the can until you say to yourself "this is stupid" and you lay the can down. If your arm is sore, you have probably shaken the can sufficiently. I saw a device on the internet that really helps in this step. Imagine a 12 inch long wood demo blade (teeth dulled) mounted to a sawzall. The spray paint can is strapped onto the sawzall blade and shaken for a few minutes on low speed. http://mixkwik.com/ IMO, this process makes a world of difference in preventing the paint nozzles from clogging due to clumps of pigment in the spray can. Surface Prep Most folks complain about spray can paint "chipping" easily. I also had several issues with easily chipped final coats a few years back. What I always noticed was the top coat would chip but the primer coat somehow stayed attached. This "chipping" turned out to be delamination of the top color coat from the primer coat caused by poor adhesion. Poor adhesion can be a problem at several stages of the paint process. Prior to applying the primer, make sure the surface is able to allow the paint to "bite" into the metal. Imagine trying to paint a pane of clean glass. The paint will peel off in a sheet from the smooth surface. Take that same surface and rough it up a bit with 180 - 220 paper, the paint will stick much better. Now imagine if you have a dusty, glass smooth, wire wheeled tractor part waiting for paint. What chance does the primer or body filler really have to adhere to a surface that smooth! I scuff all non sandblasted parts with RED 3M scuff pads (probably the equivalent of 220 sand paper) prior to washing them in water and Dawn dish washing liquid. After drying, wipe down the the washed parts with 70% IPA (isopropyl alcohol). I was amazed at the sand blast media residue removed by the IPA and Dawn cleanings. With all loose residue removed from the metal surface, the primer will adhere to the metal and not just lay on top of a dust layer on the surface of the metal. Note : wiping down a surface with Acetone or lacquer thinner does not allow the grease or oils to dissolve and float off the surface. Acetone will quickly flash off and leave the dried residue right back on the surface before you have a chance to wipe it off. This same concept goes when you scuff the primer coat prior to top coat application. I always wipe down scuffed primer with IPA. Again, you will be amazed at what comes off the surface. Egg Timer Get one. Best darn $3 I have invested in my painting supplies to date. I believe of all the modifications to my routine for spray can paint application, the consistency of WAITING THE PROPER TIME between application of multiple coats yielded the largest gains. As a first step for top coat application, SPRAY ON A MIST COAT. Forget about how it looks, you want a light mist coat, maybe 50% coverage over the primer. Set the egg timer for 30 minutes and WALK AWAY. Ding, Ding. After 30 minutes the mist coat should be tacky. This tacky coat will be a good bond between the primer and the subsequent top coats. Very important step to get right. Subsequent top coats should be applied in light applications. Enamel paint needs time to cure prior to being covered by another coat. If you spray on several thick coats 'cause it looks good, you will end up with what I call "pudding skin", a thin, dry layer of paint over a thicker, semi dry, oxygen starved layer of paint which may take weeks or months to fully cure. Enamel paint needs exposure to oxygen to cure - which is very different from "drying". Lacquer paint "dries". Solvent evaporates from lacquer leaving the pigment behind. Enamel paints harden thru chemical reaction - not evaporation. Takeaway point here is first layer of topcoat is a misty tack coat. Wait about 30 minutes and put on a light 2nd coat. Set the egg timer for 1 hour and leave the room. Come back in an hour and apply a second light top coat - set the egg timer for 1 hour, etc, etc until you are satisfied with the finish. The wait time is important as it allows each layer of topcoat a chance to oxygen exposure and a chance to cure sufficiently before the next coat. If you cram all the paint on in one or two thick coats, the first layer of topcoat will never dry - its oxygen has been cutoff by the 2nd thick layer of topcoat. The first layer of topcoat will then "chip" off easily weeks and months later. Temperature Personally, I have much better luck painting with spray cans at the lower end of the recommended temperature range for application. One of the secrets of a good top coat is to maintain a "wet edge" to the paint. As you apply strokes of paint across the piece, if the thin fan of paint produced by a spray can dries before you head back over it with a second stroke, the layer of paint may be uneven and dry with a rough finish. Lower outside temps allow the paint to dry somewhat slower and prevent the "dry edge" from showing up on your work. In summary, I'm not sure any spray can paint, regardless of the manufacturer, contains sufficient UV blockers and top quality binders necessary for them to compete with automotive paints. Those components are expensive and you are not going to get them in a $4 can of spray paint. Spray can paint manufacturer choice is your personal choice. I do believe spray guns are the way to go for even atomization of paint and a glossy finish "right from the gun". Spray cans lack the consistent atomization and fan width to provide any real competition for HVLP or pressure guns. But I still contend, you can swab paint on a tractor with toilet paper wrapped around a stick as long as you are willing to spend extra time, money and effort to wet sand it all down level. Once that happens and you polish it, the finish will look as good as produced by high end spray equipment. You will also learn quickly that every paint job looks "ab fab" (absolutely fabulous) in pictures - from 3 feet away. Up close - under curmudgeon scrutiny - well, that's a story for another day. You will need to decide if spending 3 days prepping and painting a hood is worth the investment. Good luck in all your efforts and Welcome To RedSquare !!

Of course, I've gotta submit the favorite "worker" currently in my collection, my one owner, original 653. Here it is a couple years ago, the day I picked it up from the original owner... http://www.wheelhors...ing the torch ...and a couple, more recent picts of it from this past year. :handgestures-thumbsup:

Ok this is my daughters tractor I put together last summer. 1966 Lawn Ranger. She wanted a little tractor to ride around on and this is what I found sitting in a field for several years. after getting it running and the bugs worked out. And all fixed up and painted with Gabby enjoying it.

My name is Cole and I am 10.. My dad is Ken B. I went with my dad to get this tractor from Charles. It had a Lawson motor on it but dad does not like them so we changed it. I helpd when I could but I mostly did all the cleaning. I wanted a foot throtle on my tractor and i wanted my tractor loud and fast and it is. Me and my dad ride our tractors alot! I wanted a tractor like my dads but I like mine better.

I would like to nominate my 401. I got this tractor in early November of 2009 for my first garden tractor. I buddy of my dad's knew I was looking for a garden tractor and he ended up dropping it off to me. It still ran very good but she was a smoker. When I got it it had duals that were loaded and it would go through anything, It had a plow on it and I never caught it spinning its wheels. on Christmas on 2009 I decided to strip it apart and restore it. It spent the next year and a half restoring it. We began with getting it sandblasted, and because it was pitted so bad we had to use quite a bit of bondo on it. I had to of had at least 50 hrs probably a lot more than that sanding it perfect. The hood on the tractor we found nos on craiglist and jumped right on it so all it needed was scuffed and it was ready. The tractor was painted with base coat/clear coat car paint and a body shop my family owns.The wheels were powder coated. The engine and transmission were completely rebuilt by my dad's buddy who gave me the tractor. The tractor was finally ready to be assembled, we began spring of 2011 and finished just in time for Kelly's show in August of that year. I of course kept the duals and I added a polished stainless stack to really make it stand out. The only thing I would ever change on the tractor is I would like some tri ribs on the front, and some wheels that are not so badly pitted. Thanks, Jake a before shot This post has been promoted to an article

Here is my 1960 Suburban Hot Rod. She started out simply enough but has evolved into my absolute favorite tractor. Custom features are dual pipes, super fatties out back, foot control throttle with rev limiter, home made light bracket and an opening lid for the tool box to hide my goodies and the battery for the head lights. She is loud n proud and a little faster than stock.

Several years ago I modified the impeller on my Toro walkbehind 2-stage blower using "Clarence's Kit". If any of you are unfamiliar with this, it is essentially adding a rubber paddle to each leg of the impeller to seal the space between the impeller and the shute of the blower. Google "Clarence's snowblower mod" for more information. This makes a huge difference in wet slushy snow, but will generally improve performance in all snow conditions. Well, I wanted to try something similar on my Single Stage 42 inch blower, so this is what I did: - I got some rubber belting from TSC to use for my paddle extentions. - I took my angle grinder and cut a slot on one side of the paddle where the auger meets in the center. This is for the rubber belt to fit in along with a piece of 1/8 inch plate to use as a backer for the rubber. - I cut some 1/8 inch plate to fit the paddle. Where the spiral part of the auger meets the Paddle part, it is welded on one side, but not the other. I made my slot on the non welded side for convenience. - After fitting the steel plates and the rubber on the paddle, everything was clamped together and drilled, then bolted together with some bolts and locknuts. - You can leave the rubber a bit long and trim it after fitting. You want it so it fits snug against the curvature of the blower housing. Nothing too it. I think it makes the Single stage work much better tnan before with the big gap between the auger paddle and the blower housing. - After using this for several storms, it works quite well, but the rubber belting I got needs to be just a bit stiffer. I have plenty and it is easy to swap out, So not a big deal overall.

This is my grandfather on his 1973 Model 10 8-speed, taken some time in the late 70's or early 80's. (The side-view mirror was his own "special" add-on!) As an 11 year old when he purchased this tractor new, I had no idea what he had. As an adult, I was crushed to find out my mom sold it to a neighbor after he passed. Happily, the story doesn't end there though, as a friend recently presented me with an amazing gift....a fully restored 1975 B-80 (photos posted further down the 1973-1977 forum)...a "replacement" of sorts for this tractor that was "lost".

Here's three: June 8 & 9 Sat & Sun . . . Evansville, IN . . . Lawn & Garden Tractor & Classic Iron Show . www.siamclub.hypermart.net , (and Lawn & Tractor Magazine) Aug, 2 & 3 Fri & Sat . . . Charlotte, MI . . . Big & Small Tractor Show & Wheel Horse Show . www. October 5 Sat only . . . Clunette, IN . . . . Scott's; Wheel Horse Get Together

I'm sure glad to hear you are going to work this little gal some. Ive got some I haven't for awhile and that's not good for engine tires rearend or anything. They will do a lot and I can just see those gals riding in a cart or a sled . Enjoy them every minute you can. they grow up too fast and are gone with there own familys but then you will be grandpa and can enjoy the grandchildren. That tractor purrs like a kitten, sounds really good !!!! The Rodgers Family in Texas

Probably should start stretching that cart now Mike...probably be a bunch that wants to ride at the show.

I have used my good ole B-80 w/o issues but as all have commented before, common sense rules. I don't have behemoth a 2 stage blower, but still fun. picture from the other year...when we had snow...sigh!

like Terry said, you can adjust the angle of the blade. I tried to cut and paste out of the online Snowblade operating manual but not working!

Heck Mike, I'll take that ride! :dance:

Just a couple of notes from past experience. In VA I don't know what the code is on concrete floor thickness, but here in MD it is 4". I reinforced mine with 6" mesh. What I didn't do was put in floor drains. If I were to do it over again, I would have an active drain system under each car location. My garage is 24' x 24'. 24' is a good depth, but I would like it wider. The ceiling height is 8' 6". I have two 9' wide doors. If I were to do it again, I would have one single 16 or 18' door. If I park a tractor between cars, I can't get it out without moving one or the other car.

Kelly, you are fortunate to have Glenn dropping off one of the covers to you. I have tried various solutions to the dirt-in-the-fuse-block issue over the years without being satisfied. At the 2012 WHCC show Glenn and I discussed what was needed. His cover is terrific. What a craftsman. This was just after fixing one of these for a good friend at the show. Now we need to find a solution to the same problem in the 9-pin connector. So far all I have done is replace bad pins with gold plated ones.

this gebntal men contacted me also and it has 3 point turning break but no rear pro witch is hard to find for these and looks like it sitts out side so irt might need some work pics hid liots of issues wioth them id say around 750 he also has a b80 for 500

Next, I went about painting up the weights and got everything mounted. The end of the barbbell shaft was drilled and tapped for a collar that held the weights on. So I took advantage of this and used it to secure the weights on. That's all! Just thought I'd share it. Turned out pretty good and added 125 pounds to the rear end of my D.

Charmin on a wooden paint stirrer works pretty good, is readily available, and doesn't leave little pieces stuck to the ***! Duff :ROTF: But seriously, Chuck, GREAT post! 2 ply Duff always use 2 ply

Once that part of the project was complete, I moved on to adding weights to the wheels. Working at the Y in town, I was able to nab a set of 125 York dumbbells that were put away in storage never to be used again. Went to the local surplus store and picked up some square a 1 1/4" square stock and set out to make a fixture that would support the weights. I used the 1" bar from the barbbell set as the center stock piece and welded it all together. Drilled holes in the fixture and got it mounted to the wheel. Then all painted up.

According to the Kohler service manual, in a 7 digit serial number, the first 2 digits in the range of 60-69 indicates 1974.

The 10W30 oil will be as thick as 10W oil at 0 degrees which is thinner than what 30W would be at 0 degrees. When the engine is warmed up the 10W30 will be as thin as 30W oil would be at that temperature but not as thin as what 10W oil would be. Didn't want somebody thinking that the multi viscosity oil thickens as it heated up....I guess to be accurate....it doesn't thin as much....somebody stop me before I hurt myself....

Hey Cutlas I was in contact with this guy as well and $1200 is way too high for me as well. I passed too :snooty:

Seriously - they are nothing but a scraper. The adjustable plates are set at a certain distance from the rotating screen, When the debris build up thick enough to contact the scraper, It 'wipes' the entire screen clean. Too bad the Onans can't have reversible fans like some of the new turf equipment:

I smoked him on my new pellet smoker/grille :)

onan? sterno bum? that is what we need - a windshield wiper like mechanism to sweep away the debis

I'd like to attend Mark but I don't think swmbo would like me being away two weekends on the trot. My local vintage club show May 5th at Carlisle airport. Hopefully I'll get over for a day.

Doc said the zipper was there to enable fine tuning of my newly installed bionics. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JdM64zekOAk

Don't know about the Nissan but I would guess the raccoon got totaled. :hide:

I think you can get a KIA with a Tecky in it. Glad all went well Craig. How long you home for?? New name...Eric Von Zipper...remember those movies? :)

OK. so I survived having NOT caught the flu in the hospital, and am back home with some bionics implanted. and my ankle officially now on the mend. Unfortunately, my little hauler didn't fare so well, heard it was totaled by the insurance company today...was picked up, and is now on it's way to public auction, if you can believe that. <<WARNING>> The last pict here is a bit graphic, in that it shows the stitches where the ankle repair was done.

Here is my entry for the tractor of the month. This tractor was a true "Basket Case" and took a lot of work to get it where it is today. My wife wanted a pink Wheel Horse but the only way I would do one is if the tractor was in really bad shape to start with and look what she found! The guy we bought it from wanted it for the 7 hp Kohler and didn't need the rest. We bought the tractor and brought it home and she took it all apart. Here are before and after pictures of the tractor and as you can see my little daughter is taking over the tractor from her mother! As most projects the tractors not 100% yet but will be soon!

Looks nice but where does the mower deck bolt on ????

Spend your money fixing the k181 (right) Not just good enough for now. If you cant do it pay somebody to do it. Theres no reason it shouldnt start almost immediately when you hit the key. Even the pull start 181s start on a half pull most of the time. Its a tough little engine to beat and simple to maintain. If its wore to the point boring and reringing isnt a option used blocks are not that hard to find.

well i have got time to rebuild the carb etc on it now and wooh it runs sweet now.. Going to get a vid of it when ill drive it.. All i have now is just a short vid of it running.. http://s1208.beta.ph...de8185.mp4.html Thanks!!

Completely original and intact 1973 10 HP 8 Speed Wheelhorse Tractor (aka, Raider 10 No-Name) Model Number: 1-0365