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Had the scanner fired up today and thought this would be of assistance: Full page from the manual: 62 to 64 tractor specs 001.bmp

Today the wife and I found this calendar at Books a Million. Thought it was pretty funny to see somebody chose a Wheel Horse / Toro for a calendar cover!

$550 FOR THE PAIR!!!! EVERYONE AROUND HERE WANT'S AT LEAST THAT FOR 1!!! "OH YEAH IT'S GOING TO NEED A BATTERY" Nice black sheep by the way! :thumbs:

And why not. I carry a gieger counter with me to the Sushi bars !! :ychain:

Thought I would share some photos of the steps it takes to convert a C-161-8 Speed to 520 gear reduction steering and forward swept axle. This is my 2nd conversion as I already have done a previous C-161-8 conversion, but I didn't take any photos about 3 years ago. I figure this will take me about 3-4 weeks to complete as there are some pieces I have ordered that haven't yet arrived and I usually get to work on tractors on Saturday. My 8 year old son has been helping with this conversion, which is the best part. I bought one of the impact drill driver and he loves zipping bolts on an off!! Here is my 1st photo. In my 1st conversion I used a 416 frame and this steering gear didn't need any modification. However, using the C-161-8 frame this time, the foot pegs are located slightly closer towards the dash tower which required a little metal work. It was ground down a little bit towards the gears so it would not touch the cross rod for the foot pegs. Thad (Ohio) 2nd part. We had to drill four new holes to hold the gear reduction housing. Thad (Ohio)

Craig, probably too late to say Good Luck with the surgery...brake a leg. That was uncalled for...wasn't it??? Sorry mate. Enjoy the Morphine and Narcos my friend.

I would like to nominate my 401. I got this tractor in early November of 2009 for my first garden tractor. I buddy of my dad's knew I was looking for a garden tractor and he ended up dropping it off to me. It still ran very good but she was a smoker. When I got it it had duals that were loaded and it would go through anything, It had a plow on it and I never caught it spinning its wheels. on Christmas on 2009 I decided to strip it apart and restore it. It spent the next year and a half restoring it. We began with getting it sandblasted, and because it was pitted so bad we had to use quite a bit of bondo on it. I had to of had at least 50 hrs probably a lot more than that sanding it perfect. The hood on the tractor we found nos on craiglist and jumped right on it so all it needed was scuffed and it was ready. The tractor was painted with base coat/clear coat car paint and a body shop my family owns.The wheels were powder coated. The engine and transmission were completely rebuilt by my dad's buddy who gave me the tractor. The tractor was finally ready to be assembled, we began spring of 2011 and finished just in time for Kelly's show in August of that year. I of course kept the duals and I added a polished stainless stack to really make it stand out. The only thing I would ever change on the tractor is I would like some tri ribs on the front, and some wheels that are not so badly pitted. Thanks, Jake a before shot This post has been promoted to an article

I buy batteries from the auto parts store or battery outlet and they load test them before they are handed over to the customer. I've seen a few that couldn't make it to my side of the counter.

" Oh BTW, our afternoon temps were in the low 70's with Sunny skies. Gonna be slightly warmer tomorrow, high 77 and Sunny. I"ll probably be on the 417 mowing, and wearing a tank top" Reading this right after I shook the fire down, emptied the ashes, loaded the hopper with more coal and filled my coal buckets. I was wearing a tank top too but I'm inside! Oh and you do meet some really nice folks here. Sharing knowledge and stories were the biggest resources I had in working on these machines with others on this site. And I do love those Black Hoods! My C-175 may get an Onan P220 one of these days. I still have one sitting on my bench.

Just a little update. I've been doing a lot of parts chasing and repairs over the past few days. I've been working on the van after work thruout the week hammerin and tweakin. I went into work one day at 3:30 am and painted one of the doors and then hung it yesterday. Today I hung the new rear bumper and brackets I scored at a junk yard earlier in the day. Also scored a tire carrier today. Tomm. I'll paint the other door at work and within another day or so this thing is done, for under 500 bucks too boot.

Well here goes this is not really mine but my Daughter Hunter's tractor, its a 1967 857 with a few tweaks to her liking, it started as a basket case I was stripping for parts, but she wanted a short frame tractor and picked this one, it was built in about 6 weeks from start to finish nights after work and weekends, she loves it, and has guys drooling over it at all the shows, so I'm posting this on her behalf. Here is what we started with. and what we had in 6 weeks.

this is what i bought with my holiday pay! the one on the left is mine, it's a c165-8 speed, the one on the right is wheel-n-it's c125-8speed bought about a month ago. van saw it in cl. and i made the deal & he went and picked it up for me! it runs well ,but smokes, nice 48 in. deck too. check out van's new shirt, T & H creations on e-bay, great products at great prices too. the tractor cost $250. + $25 for gas & a cool shirt, & a garden tractor book. well here are the pictures. thanks van for going to pick it up for me on new years day ! Jay

I guess I haven't been saying this enough lately - if you have several pieces of battery operated lawn equipment - get one learn how to interpret the readings AND USE IT as the first step of troubleshooting any electrical issues. it will save you a ton of time and frustration and possibly pay for itself on the first use. And never, never leave the auto parts store with a battery that reads less then 12.5 - yes again, less than 12.5 volts across the terminals. A fresh battery in good condition will read 12.5 to 12.6 volts. Do not let the auto counter experts suggest "it only needs a charge". If the battery is reasonably fresh, it will read 12.5 to 12.6 right off the rack. Sent using my 8 year old Dell GX-270 with a wobbly space bar.

Thanks everyone for the birthday wishes! I think the old saying goes: "At twenty we worry about what others think of us; at forty we don't care about what others think of us; at sixty we discover they haven't been thinking about us at all." Al

Bears will get a jump on the Packers next season. They will be fresher because they played 2 less games. Here is a picture of the Packers locker room after the game last night.

Not as big as PA, but everything you are looking for. Search through the "Herd" section for photos.

And they will meet in the Special Handicap match, From parts unknown, weight unknown wearing an 857 and a Raider 10, THE MASKED DINOSAUR!!! :banana-dreads:

most things in the northeast are expensive compared to other parts of the country

Van the weather has been real rough on us this weekend here in the Carolina's. I was outside this morning around 8, had to take my sweatshirt off, it was too warm! Just plain miserable.

Nice blackies there. I agree...T&H does put out some pretty neat looking stuff. Nice people to work with as well.

No problem! I dug out the scanner, so here it is in print form:

I always use Battery Warehouse batteries. As TT said, load testing before leaving the store is a must. I made the mistake of buying a "sale" battery off the shelf in a home center a couple of years ago, and one cell was weak from the git-go. It started the first time but couldn't hold a charge. Sent using Tapatalk 2

Yes lots of documented battery problems by Red Square members on this site. The sad shame of it is that you buy a new battery and really don't know if it is worth installing!

The $175 price isn't terrible, but a non-running (not able to test the) hydro could end up being a money pit or even a lawn ornament. I can't tell which hydro it is from the pictures, but I'd certainly be more comfortable if it was an Eaton vs. the Sundstrand. It's your money, but I'd work the seller for a better deal.

Nice tractors. We do meet good people on here (must be the tractors). I have had some great dealings with Operator, rydogg and Kelly. All good people. Our high here yesterday was 40 degrees at midnight Friday night and dropped like a rock to 3 degrees last night. High of 9 degrees today. I think I 'll split wood but, I think I will have a little more than a tank top on. :teasing-neener:

I agree with the Steve , what a real shame that you are going to work it, why dont you get another cheap wheelhorse for working and keep this one safely locked up in somewhere like the lounge of the kitchen

I don't see any "crap" in those pictures, just a lot of rusty treasure! The Holder tractor reminds me of a friends tractor..his is a Pasqualie.

Here is my 1960 Suburban Hot Rod. She started out simply enough but has evolved into my absolute favorite tractor. Custom features are dual pipes, super fatties out back, foot control throttle with rev limiter, home made light bracket and an opening lid for the tool box to hide my goodies and the battery for the head lights. She is loud n proud and a little faster than stock.

The revised brake shaft is p/n 3559B. The service kit containing #7243 differential gear and #3559B brake shaft was sold under part # 6076

Chop and I will be plowing tonights snow. Which is better? :text-offtopic:

Aw, geee, shucks - thanks, guys! Must be I got a good batch of tea leaves to read this year! Sure wasn't because I'm a football expert or anything even close to it! Duff

Steve where are you getting that information my owners manual for 701,401 551 shows transmission #5010 used on a 401 as diff.case and gear as part #3502 ? Brian Brian, check on page 12 of this manual link (service notes)...it is a little confusing, and I am not positive about the part numbers, but there is a difference between the early and later differential housings and brake shaft gears. Here are 2 videos of the 3 differentials that I have seen that go into the #5003 and #5010 transmissions. Maybe they kept the same part number and just used the replacement gears. http://www.mywheelho...ns/492-4004.pdf Steve check page 14 you will see the part # is 3502 with note 5 the way I read this is: part #3502 with the course teeth is the first version part #7243 with fine teeth is the second version (part upgrade new rev. level) part #7243 up graded to a two piece diff hub and hard gear (final upgrade third version) after first version brake shaft was upgraded to fine tooth( new rev. level to match diff. gear) brake shaft will work with the two later versions (fine tooth) Brian

Yeah, Jay and I have the North Carolina Wheel Horse market cornered. This was a good exercise in teamwork. I find 'em, he buys 'em, I go get 'em, and I get a new shirt and a reallyreally nice hardback book on Lawn and Garden Tractors! Thank you Jay! Yep, I have made a good friend thanks to RedSquare. Even though Jay and I both live in North Carolina, we probably would have never met without being members here. I am very much looking forward to helping Jay spend more of his money buying Wheel Horses in 2013 Oh BTW, our afternoon temps were in the low 70's with Sunny skies. Gonna be slightly warmer tomorrow, high 77 and Sunny. I"ll probably be on the 417 mowing, and wearing a tank top :)

Just to follow up everyone I successfully flushed my tranny by using: 1 Kerosene Flush 2 ATF Flushes Added 80W-90 and it is as clear as day! Thanks all!

Thanks,I swapped out the unit with a known good subject same results.I tore down the original from the tractor and found no visible issues.I put it back in and found the problem is my 2 day old battery.It reads nearly 13 amps and upon pushing the start button it drops to 2amps.I shoulda known,it's happened before.Thanks for your help!I am always the victim of overlooking the simple problems!

i couldn't load the rest of the pics. lets try again. this is me. the c165-8 is mine,the c125-8is wheel-n-it's both run great! & only $550 for the pair ! Jay

Why does it look so warm and inviting there? Why isn't your lawn white? Oh, real nice Black Hoods too!

Yep, high resistance in the armature circuit caused by either worn or dirty brushes / commutator surface. Visual inspection is the only way to go.

Nice black hoods! Can't wait to redo my C-125!

Looks like your long hours were for a good cause. Very nice project!

Nice find Martin...I can see Kent running about 15 gallons of gas through it at Charlotte. :)

I've been using Lucas transmission additive to pre-lube bearings and gears and shafts when I rebuild transmissions. I like how it sticks and hangs in there. I think that it smooths out and quiets the gears meshing also. While, I am not using very much in the transmission, knowing that everything is well lubed before running it is peace of mind. I am also confident that it will stay lubed if I decide to store the transmission for some time. :)

Thats not a gto.... this is a GTO! P.S. I just had to Chris, LOL!

Oh I have to chime in............Many many of the comments made in the thread are true. Horribly true! US companies also placed manufacturing facilities in the PRC to not only get a product on the market cheaper but to also enter a huge emerging market in China. Millions of Chinese citizens are becoming upwardly mobile. They are better educated and making money and US firms needed to get a facility on that soil to get into that market and that of other Southeast Asia countries. Another major contributor of the migration of our jobs for the middle class and the gutting of the US Manufacturing Sector was the high cost of unions. (Yes.....I can take the punishment of the union guys on here). Unions were and are needed everywhere and not just in the US. (Ask a lot of those Chinese workers). But there were unions that got too greedy! Everyone deserves a sustainable wage but assembly line workers making 24 bucks an hour plus overtime in the late 80's in companies that are 60 to 80 years old with many retirees that live longer than ever and you also see where these company's bottom lines were going. Then add the greed of the company officers and Board of Directors and their salaries and the "whatever it takes to keep our stock prices up" and everything began to unravel. This included the quality of products that the US was known for! Next add everyone suing everybody for stupid crap that added extra costs to manufacturing and government meddling with OSHA, EPA and DEP and it's a wonder that we manufacture anything at all in the USA. (I care about our environment and particularly clean streams but some of the mandates are unacceptable). Manufacturing jobs will and actually are coming back. But it will take time and it will take wise men with common sense values and ethics and workers that are willing to put in the hours and not expect instant gratification in a world where many of the youth and too many of my generation expect nothing less than instant success with minimum output. Wow! I wonder what I ate this evening that burst into my fingers! Sorry for the long rant! I just miss the days of quality products and wonder what the next generation is going to do for jobs!

I just got it about a week ago. Thanks for the shifter suggestion, I will try to pull it out in a fews weeks when I get time again

:text-thankyouyellow: Well thats it Ive heard enough IM OUT! But before I do lemme do one last thing!

Here is a pic of a factory ROPS for a D250.

For guys that need a center PTO bearing Toro Consumer 102915 Bearing-Ball it is a F..A..G 6009 available to order at Tractor Supply for $10.88 + 6.00 shipping.

I just performed an experiment a couple of weeks ago. I had a transmission that I was going to tear into and fix anything that was wrong. I drained the oil (it was in good shape...not like yours). I turned the input pulley of the transmission in each gear by hand to determine if anything seemed amiss...it seemed OK. I then put in about a quart and a half of diesel fuel and ran the transmission on my work bench (using an electric motor with a fan belt). I ran it in each gear for about a total of 30 minutes, the speed of which I estimate to be around full throttle. I then drained the transmission and took it apart. The gears, bearings, shafts and casting came out clean as a whistle. There was still a small amount of sludge layered on the bottom of the casting...which wiped right out with a couple of rags. Of the 7 transmissions that I have opened in the last few months, this was the only one that did not have internal problems. The others have had broken or disintegrated bearings, chipped axle gears, chipped bull gear etc. I feel that if I had used the method above on these transmissions, I would have caused more damage and would have inferred more cost. As it is, these transmissions are "averaging" around $75 to $100 apiece to fix and replace broken gears and old seals. There is no labor included in this cost, just cleaners, rags, parts and oil. In conclusion, flushing does clean out a transmission, it also loosens everything and throws it around. It does not fix things that are broken or cracked. I still recommend splitting the transmission, if you really want to know it's condition. Only then can you guarantee yourself another 60 years of service. Kelly is right about members not feeling comfortable tearing down one of these transmissions, but I have been able to help walk people through the process by using posts, PMs e-mail and good old fashioned phone calls. Actually, I think the hard part of doing one of these trannys, is dropping it from the rest of the tractor, the second hardest thing is the cleaning of the inside...electrolysis (if needed), soaking gears and blowing and wiping down, wire brushing, etc...not really hard to do, but may be labor intensive. Putting it back together is a piece of cake and very satisfying. Taking that first ride on the horse when you are done...priceless. :)