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Looks nice but where does the mower deck bolt on ????

Picked up this 520-8 Stallion, runs. Needs work but, we (grandson & I) needed a Spring '13 Project. Giddy up ! Posted images in my Gallery. Take a peek-a-boo. http://www.wheelhors...-520-8-project/

i couldn't load the rest of the pics. lets try again. this is me. the c165-8 is mine,the c125-8is wheel-n-it's both run great! & only $550 for the pair ! Jay

Grinnin' fo' sure! I am going to take it easy during the restoration. I didn't need another Stallion, will have to divide my couple of acres into five sections for the 's exercisin' 'n grazin'. The poor oldtimers (me too) need all the lovin' they can get. I guess I didn't need this poor old Horse, will give it whatever it needs to be happily retired. I live in a restored bank barn, Herd lives on the lower back level, heated and very well fed! :laughing-rofl:

I had one make that noise along with other problems (Steveasaurus may remember) but the TAP TAP was the input shaft TAPPING I had to re- seat the closed side input shaft bearing to remove excess play. But mine made the noise both b4 and after an overhaul with all new bearings but when I installed the new bearings I did so just as the old ones were, which was incorrect.

SUBURBANS & RJ 58/59 TRANSMISSION CROSS OVER CHART FOR WH #5003 and #5010 TRANSMISSIONS DESCRIPTION..............................................................WH #......................VENDOR..........QUANTITY...........SIZE BRONZE BEARING (AXLE)..........................................1503.......................CB-1618-12..........2..................1" X 1 1/8" X 1 1/2" BRONZE BEARING (DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING)..........1517.......................CB-2224-14..........2..................1 3/8" X 1 1/2" X 1 7/16" INPUT SHAFT & OUT END OF BRAKE SHAFT.............1519........................S8K ground..........4..................3/4" X 1 5/8" X 5/16" CLUSTER GEAR SHAFT & 11/44 GEAR BASE............1502........................NICE 412-35........3..................3/4" X 1 5/8" X 3/8" INPUT GEAR NEEDLE BEARING.................................1518........................B-108...................1..................5/8" X 15/16" X 1/2" BRONZE BEARINGS (CLUSTER GEAR SHAFT............1504.......................EP-1214-12..........2..................3/4" X 7/8" X 3/4" BRAKE SHAFT (NEEDLE) IF YOU HAVE THIS............1508.......................B-1212.................1..................3/4" X 1" X 3/4" SEALS AXLE (FROM TORO ONLY)..(CAP)...................1257.......................83-2840...............2 SEALS INPUT SHAFT & BRAKE SHAFT (BALL BRNG)..1234......................741643 timken......2 SEAL BRAKE SHAFT (IF NEEDLE BRNG).....................1303......................7410 skf................1 Gasket material: Karropak 1/32 thick comes in a roll 12" x 36" tan in color...$ 6.00 at Auto Zone You can get all this from Motion Industries. I would say, yes, you are going into it. Did you try the block thing I mentioned above?? I am curious to see if it made a difference. If you need to just change out the bronze bearings, they are cheap. Keep us informed, I will be here to help in any way I can. :)

ok does anyone know who this is? i took him and my girl to a motorcycle show in boston over the summer.

my suburban 550 has a clicking noise only in reverse. it sounds like it's only on the pulley side. what might cause this?. 1st,2nd,and 3rd gears are all fine. with the rear jacked up and running in reverse you can't feel the clicking with your hand on the diff. it sounds the same whether it's jacked up off the ground or your driving it.

Playing around today with my scroll saw and look what I made. It's only 48 pieces but either way it was just as fun trying to put this back together after I cut all the little pieces out, LOL Sized this to aprox. 6 x 8 inch ( actually printed more like 6-3/4 x 8-3/4 ). was trying to make 1 inch pieces but the outer pieces ended up bigger due to my printer screwing up the size for me...but at the cost of ink I wasn't going to get too tech. on it.. Glued the picture to a piece of 1/4 inch Baltic Birch Plywood and cut away. So what do you think?

nice pair of tractors. and a great use of the over time money

mule drive cover ? on pto front?

Why does it look so warm and inviting there? Why isn't your lawn white? Oh, real nice Black Hoods too!

nice black hoods Jay...where is the snow??? :)

Nice pair of tractors.

I dont know what you paid for the stuff but that swept front end would be an easy sell for sure. Mike..........

Not sure in you have one near you or not, but Family Farm and Home (competes directly with Tractor Supply) has some great prices on both lug and turf tires. $67/each for 4 ply turfs and $80/each for their lugs. I wouldn't even mess with used for that price.

I had one for over a year, and though I won't disagree about them being a powerful machine, it seemed like a waste of horsepower and gasoline. Mine had a 48" deck and I suppose if I had a picture-perfect smooth yard and could have mowed in high gear it would have been better. Those tractors should have the same 5 1/4" engine pulley like the hydro models.

It might be valued at millions of dollars, but it's only worth $165/ton. That being said, how much does it weigh? Seriously - 31 to 32 million dollars.

I learned this from the savvy members here. Ofcourse you need another matching hub. I had one. Good Luck!

Dont hit the hub with a hammer - its cast iron and very easy to break OR you can blow off the little titty thingys on the inboard end of the axle at the circlip groove. Do a search for hub removal on the site,, you'll see pictures of another hub used as a puller, or the original version, the "Dale puller" made by Mr Thirdrock

Kevbo, When the time comes to put things back together remember this: Never-Sieze is your Friend! David

Didn't get much work time tonight my daughter is a cheer leader and she had a B ball game tonight so we went to that, can't miss the kid stuff, she is a senior this year and has been cheering since 4th grade, she hopes to do it in collage next fall. Well I figured if I'm going to make fenders up and make them fit right I better start from the bottom and work up, I knew the lower dash tower had some issues cracks and was a bit tweaked the bolt holes didn't line up, you had to push or pull to get bolts in, so I pulled the tower off and gutted it, I hammered the panels around till everything lined up, found a big dent in the side behind the idler pulley, looks like someone had a pry bar in there at some point, but all is good now, I lined up the cracks on both sides of the tower and welded them up, I added a weld to the inside while I was at it, I may add a brace in the tower at this point where I welded it up, it is the weak point by far, and 10 min. of welding could make it much stronger. My naked tractor, but I need a square solid starting point to mount the fenders, and be sure everything lines up good when done. Hard to see all the cracks but both sides of the tower were broke, one side had a 1"+ crack, the other side had a few 1" cracks, and I welded both inside and out. all welded up and ground, but I may weld some small plates around this corner to stiffen it up.

Yes and he's going back in June to be in the parade. :)

Oh I have to chime in............Many many of the comments made in the thread are true. Horribly true! US companies also placed manufacturing facilities in the PRC to not only get a product on the market cheaper but to also enter a huge emerging market in China. Millions of Chinese citizens are becoming upwardly mobile. They are better educated and making money and US firms needed to get a facility on that soil to get into that market and that of other Southeast Asia countries. Another major contributor of the migration of our jobs for the middle class and the gutting of the US Manufacturing Sector was the high cost of unions. (Yes.....I can take the punishment of the union guys on here). Unions were and are needed everywhere and not just in the US. (Ask a lot of those Chinese workers). But there were unions that got too greedy! Everyone deserves a sustainable wage but assembly line workers making 24 bucks an hour plus overtime in the late 80's in companies that are 60 to 80 years old with many retirees that live longer than ever and you also see where these company's bottom lines were going. Then add the greed of the company officers and Board of Directors and their salaries and the "whatever it takes to keep our stock prices up" and everything began to unravel. This included the quality of products that the US was known for! Next add everyone suing everybody for stupid crap that added extra costs to manufacturing and government meddling with OSHA, EPA and DEP and it's a wonder that we manufacture anything at all in the USA. (I care about our environment and particularly clean streams but some of the mandates are unacceptable). Manufacturing jobs will and actually are coming back. But it will take time and it will take wise men with common sense values and ethics and workers that are willing to put in the hours and not expect instant gratification in a world where many of the youth and too many of my generation expect nothing less than instant success with minimum output. Wow! I wonder what I ate this evening that burst into my fingers! Sorry for the long rant! I just miss the days of quality products and wonder what the next generation is going to do for jobs!

well here is my entry for January tractor of the month It is my RJ35 which i bought from Mike Martino , i am currently waiting to have it shipped to UK , when i can gather some pennies together to send it on its long trip. There will be only two Rj 35s in Uk one of which will be this one and the other which is owned by fellow member Chris Sutton. I was delighted to be offered to buy this one from Mike Martino especially as we all know Mike from being the Author of Straight from the Horses Mouth , so it will make the tractor a special addition to my collection. This is my 4th tractor that i have imported to UK now , the others being my RJ58 653 551 suburban and now my RJ35 Round hood tractors are so rare in UK that the only way of ever being able to own one of these great little machines was to have one shipped over from US , but unfortunetly due to the Wheelhorse addiction i had to have another , so now my current roundhood collection now stands at 9

http://youtu.be/F8jciEhxeXc oops, here tis. now how did I DO that?

sounds like the differential gear to me #3502 Brian

I was thinking more like "Boxcar Willie"

ok after messing with the camera and lowering the settings i think this will work. caution to suburban owners this sounds ugly lol. click on the link. http://s400.beta.pho...699237.mp4.html

Best bet is photo bucket Mike. I know that is slow, but once you have it there the link works fast.

ok i tried to put a video up but it's taking way too long to load to photo bucket. how can i put up a 20-30 second video here.

If he uses "slick Willie" everybody will prolly think a former President has joined us! :ychain:

TT thanks. i wasn't quite sure.

In case you didn't know, the extra parts are what's left of a 1961 551.

just got off the phone with the guy i got the 550 from and he's giving me another trans. . this will make things much easier. i'll redo this one and put it in then redo the original at a later date. i guess i'll be selling these extra parts i got lol.

lol well it looks like i'm in for some messy fun. on a side note i did get this today hoping it was a complete rear but nope. oh'well i can sell off these parts and hopefully pay for my repairs or maybe get enough to buy a good complete rear to swap into mine.

I'm done guessing now...could be too many things. I have not heard your clicking sound, so you are on your own with this. If you think you can run the transmission for about fifteen minutes at about 1/2 throttle without making maters worse, I would put the horse on blocks...drain the oil and put in about 2 qts of diesel fuel. These 3 piece transmissions can be very messy with the old oil leaking out when you take off the side plates. The flushing will clean most of that and you can drain that out and make the job much nicer. Have plenty of paper shop towels on hand. There is no drain plug on these trannys...take out one of the back, bottom side plate bolts to drain the trans. Jack up the front of the horse enough to drain as much out as possible. I am leaning toward the needle bearing (WH # 1518) that sits in the input shaft being bad at this point (not a guess ). I use an old metal paint tray for putting the parts in....works for cleaning the parts also. Ya ready??? There is a plug just below the right axle in the side plate. You fill with oil until it starts to run out of this hole, it is actually just a little more then a quart. Filling is a pain in the butt...there is a fill plug on the top back of the trans...you can take the seat off and use one of those holes...I like to pull the shifter and fill in this hole (fastest).

Managed to get a bit more done. Just a couple of shots as how far. Only a coat of primer and one of tractor paint so far. When I get the index lever fitted, which is now made, and connected to the pin I'll have a trial run. If all ok I'll strip it down and give it a final coat. One thing I have noticed when fitted on the tractor, is that the blade sits to the left hand side. The bar at the back must be slightly off square with the side tubes. Not by much, but over 5ft it pushes the blade over 1-1/2 inch. Mentally given myself a good slapping. I'll know better for next time. :teasing-poke:

it should be 1 1/2 qts on it..

well it clicks no matter which wheel i grab and stop. it sounds like it's coming from the front right side of the trans. (sitting on the tractor). would that be the 2nd,3rd gear bushings?. how much oil is supposed to be in there?. i put a little over a quart in. i really appreciate all your help on this as this is my first venture into one of these.

I hope so too...that is about the worst that can happen....take the bolts out by hand (not impact) and you should be OK. Drain it first, then put the trans in a vise with the input pulley side down. Take off the brake shaft side first. You may want to check for burrs on all the shaft ends first and file them down...makes it easier to take the side plates off. Take out the bolts on the input side while it is in the vise so you can loosen the casting from the input side. Take off the gear on top of the cluster gear shaft (you may nave to shift the casting a little to make this happen). Then take out the gear and spline shaft through the fork gears. AT this point, you may want to pop the trans into 2nd gear (lift up the lower fork one notch)...this will make it easy to lift out the cluster gear shaft. Move the fork gears out toward the center and remove the forked gears. What is left is the 11/44 tooth gear and the differential and the input gear it self. You have to take the casting and move it around to get it to bypass the brake shaft gear and the differential. Those little bolt thingys and the casting that hold the bolts for the seat are tight and that is what you have to maneuver around. Once you get the casting off, you can just lift out the differential and the brake shaft gear...and then the input gear it self. That is it. Pop off the seals on the axles and see what the bronze bearings look like...when new, they look uniform with about 1/16" of bronze all the way around. A worn one will not have much bronze on the top and bottom. You can look down the axles toward the differential housing to see if the bronze bearings there look like they should...they should look like about 1/16" of bronze all the way around. If they look bad, you have to tap out the roll pins in the pinions and remove, and then tap out the roll pins in the axles to take out the axles and the axle gears. Your side plates should be nothing but bearings now...see if they turn easy...sound good or need replacing. There should be 3 closed bearings and 4 what I call open bearings, unless you happen to have the needle bearing on one end of the brake shaft. Check and clean all gears, especially the axle gears. At this point, let's see what you find and go from there. Take some pictures of what you have in there...there are some different possibilities. Do not worry about labeling parts, there is only one of each and I can walk you through putting it back together. Really, it goes back together in reverse of how you take it part...if you do it the way I mention. Let see what you find and go from there. You will have to cut your own gaskets for the side plates...not hard. Gasket material is available at Auto Zone. Money...gasket material is about $6...bronze axle bearings $2.50 each...differential housing bronze bearings $3.24 each...open bearings (S8K) $13.84 each... the closed bearings should be OK...brake shaft seal and input seal are around $4+ each...the axle seals are only available from Toro about $18/19 each. We may have to look for any gears that may be bad...not a big deal and not expensive for used. Judging by what you are telling me about your trans, I would figure somewhere between $60 and 100 to make like new and get another 50/60 years service...definitely worth it. Did not want to scare you, but I thought you may want to know what you are getting into. money wise. Also, no special tools are needed...although a good set of punches for the roll pins help a lot...$10/15. I also recommend a bottle of Rock&Rye on hand...when things get a little rough...have a sip. I guarantee you will be able to do this, and enjoy it and feel like a million bucks when you take her out for that first ride. The Rock&Rye is very important. :bow-blue:

hey no problem. i will definitely let you know tomorrow. i read your thread on rebuilding these and i'm just hoping that i don't find any surprises (the broken bolt holes).

Do not be afraid to grab one of the tires and stop it from turning, it will not flip you over. It is made to do that because of the differential. You will be amazed at how easy it is to do that. Try it on both side and see if the clicking stops on one side or the other....I think it would tell me that the problem is in the bronze bearings. It is possible that the problem is in the bearing that is under the 44 tooth gear (brake shaft gear) in which case the clicking may not go away. Sorry to use you as a Ginny pig, but this is where I am at in trying to trouble shoot these transmissions. Please let me know what you find out.

i'll try the block thing tomorrow and let you know.

stevasaurus thanks. darn it i think i'll have to do a tear down and hope for the best. and yes it has popped out of 3rd a few times. if it is worn bushings where can i get them?.

That is the #5010 transmission...check out this video and see if something does not catch your eye...or ear for what it might be. The video is of the #5010 trans like what you have. http://s419.photobuc...TRANNYS0015.mp4 If I was to guess what it may be, I would say that you have a worn bronze bearing or 2 in the differential housing. If they are worn enough, the play could be enough to cause the pinion gears to bind and that may produce a click. The pinion gears are strong, the weak points are the axle gears, which chip, crack and/or break. I have been rebuilding some of Jake's #5003 & #5010 transmissions. We have replaced the axle gears in a few of them, and the bronze bearings were worn out in these transmissions. Try this...put the rear end on blocks and put into reverse gear and run. You can grab either of the tires and stop it's rotation...the other tire will continue to turn in reverse. Try it with each tire. Do you have the clicking when both tires turn and does it stop when just one of the tires is turning??? With a worn bearing, the force in the trans in the opposite direction could lift a gear enough to create a binding which may come across as a clicking noise. Let us know.

hears mine. click on the pic to watch the video

It looks like a nice tractor, I'd ditch what you have and try too find a nice factory muffler for it. I do like custom exhaust pipes but I think the factory setup would look best on yours.