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:text-thankyoublue: I need to get to TSC and fetch a copy. Once again I'd like to thank all of those who voted for the Drags-Tor back in August! For those who missed it, here's a link to my write-up at GT Talk forum:

i drove from selma nc. to tidiute pa.16 hours one way for my ac.B10, but this tractor was the one i plowed snow on while i was a teenager. i also brought back my commando 8, baird-beaver, & a sears custom 6 from s.w. pa. on this trip. Jay

I feel so sorry for you guys up north when you have to travel a few miles to get a tractor Thats just horrible. Note: Traveled from Mississippi To central New jerzey in a Mercury Marquis with the back seat out and disassembled a 701 and brought it back, comfy ride and nice tractor then a few months later went to north Jerzey and picked up another one, now we have his and hers in the shed. Both 701s are now in very good condition, Jim @ Dee Rodgers now in Texas

this money is going to the kids, correct what about raffling it off? 5-10 per ticket, i think there are people who go the the WH show in PA near you that could get it there if needed and maybe someone could bring it there if someone too far from you won it. this would take alot to coordinate, but it could be done. i think you may get more than it was worth, especially if it were for kids

Maybe its my lousy eyes but that "near new" snowblade looks like its had the cutting edge worn right down to the limit. I would flip it (if it can be) or replace it before it starts wearing the actual plow blade away . Mike.............

i have driven 27 hrs round trip for a tractor? even hauled one back from orlando while on vacation

I bought a 1045 a few years ago, in CT, and a member here picked it up for me, and held on to it till the WH show in PA and took it there, I was at the show but had no way to get it home, but did touch it for the first time in months, then another member here took to IN, from the show, and then another from IN brought it to my house in MI to a meet and greet I had, this whole thing was done with planning and the GREAT members here on RS. As for driving to get one, about 6 hour round trip, but I don't do that any more, can't aford to feed my Suburban to do it.

Wow cj that's quite a nice offer and I would meet ya halfway but let me get a hold of the gent with the ad to make sure it's still up for the grabs and of course I would have to be interested in the two you have up for offer which are.......?I have a 4 hour road trip planned for tomorrow after work to go visit baerpath and unload some of his red iron so let me get back with ya!Boy,I might just get away with all this with my wife.............just because it's my 40th birthday!Mid life wheel horse crisis?

+1 on Mark's comments. Good insight. One quick check to see if the device is defective, poorly designed or just a poor performer in an electrically noisey enviroment, simply plug the strobe into your car's lighter socket. If it strobes properly with the car off and then properly with the engine running, the root cause is most likely the electrically noisey environment of the tractors charging system (and they are extremely noisey). As Mark stated, batteries make excellent filters but not for all high frequency noise generated by RR switching on and off and the close proximity of the spark plug wiring to the 12 volt wiring. Trust us on this. There are entire books written on just this subject alone. The idea of a resistor inserted into the power line will most likely result in a significant performance compromise. The issue is one of very different current demands drawn during the LED off and on cycle. Catch 22. If you insert a resistor large enough to limit the small current demand of the timer circuit, when it does fire the LED, the resulting voltage drop across your "fix" most likely will snuff out significant current to the LED's. LED's are current driven devices and your timer is voltage driven. You might get it "just right" with resistor trial and error, but then end up with more $$ in resistors than you have in the cost of the strobe. I'm not sure how comfortable you are with electronics (and I believe this is an electronic issue - not an electrical issue). You may wish to add a set of filtering capacitiors onto the circuit board. This would be much cheaper than swapping out a marginal RR unit. I don't see any evidence of electrical noise filtering on the circuit board. A quick low $$ fix may be a small 0.01uf cap, and if there is room, a 470uf 35v electrolytic cap soldered directly across the (+) and (-) pads where the power cord attaches to the circuit board - probably $2 total @ Radio Shack. The .01uf capacitor will act as an electrical "short circuit" to high frequency noise only. Any spark plug or RR switching noise entering thru the wiring onto the circuit board will be shorted to ground before entering into the timer circuit. The bigger blue electrolytic cap acts as a "electron bath tub". The blue cap will store a respectable charge between LED flashes. When the timer fires, the LED's can draw from the "bath tub" and not have to draw all the required current up thru a long length of possibly undersized wires. Result is better performance. Why didn't the folks who designed this put in the extra 50 cents of components? Either they were too busy telling their Facebook friends what they had to eat for lunch that day and how the waitress did not make them feel "special", or their sales manager figured the extra 50 cents would make them "uncompetitive". I weep for the next generation.

Read this thread from the beginning & thought it was a good one. I've been pretty fortunate to of had several Horses over the years & still do. So with a little thought this is my top 5.... (5) B series Wheel Horse Elec Trak, never had one or found one that wasn't rusted away, but I'm still hopeing to find & own one of these battery powered electric driven Horses. (4) 65-68 Lawn Ranger, despite it's small size I find mine to be a very light & handy worker. (3) D-250, I'm pretty stoked to finally have one & look forward to mowing with it next season. (2) 1055, short frame, square hood, big block...whats not to like (1) 867, the post 1965 square hood short frames to me are the nicest looking Wheel Horses ever made & the 867 has all the goodies.

64 lawn ranger 67 lawn ranger 68 lawn ranger 606 1054

I NOTICED THAT EVERYBODY LOVES THE ONAN TWINS AND I SELL THEM FAST. BUT IT SEEMS LIKE MOST PEOPLE HAVE HAD SOME TYPE OF TROUBLE WITH THEM. I'M NOT TALKING ABOUT ELECTRICIAL PROBLEMS . I HAVE HAD 3-4 ONANS THAT RAN GREAT, BUT THEY JUST SCARED ME FOR THAT REASON. THE $1000 REBULD IS CRAZY, I WILL STICK WITH MY SINGLE CYLINDERS KOHLERS. JUST MY 2 CENTS BOWTIE IN OHIO

I was rebuilding this #5010 transmission (fits 1960 Suburbans and the 1961 401) and I thought I would make a video of the way the trans actually works. I was curious myself. One note...ALL OF THE WHEEL HORSE MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS WORK THIS WAY..the 6 and 8 speeds have an extra shifter and gear in them, but the rest is the same...the 3 speed uni-drives and the 4 speeds work the same way also. You might have the HI/LOW shifter, 1 1/8" axles, 6 or 8 pinions in the differential...but when you open it up it looks just like this and works the same way. Hope you enjoy the video...thanks I will post all the replacement numbers for the bearings and seals here...do not have them all yet at this point. Almost all of it is not available from Toro anymore. My thanks to VinsRJ for sending me a replacement axle gear and his expertise. Here is what I started with...both hubs were froze on...one still is. I had my homemade hub puller on this hub, and this hub snapped. I ended up cutting the hub off with a 4" grinder and then using a puller to get the rest of it. The two side plates. The axle holes are on the top. Below that is the bearings that hold the 11/44 tooth gear with the brake shaft. The bearing on the right is a needle bearing WH #1508 (equates to Torrington B-1212,L125) and the seal for this is WH #1303 (equates to SKF 7410). The bearing on the left and the lower left and lower right, where the input shaft goes is WH # 1519 (equates to Timkin S 8 K ). The seal for this is Timkin 471643. The 2 closed bearings WH #1502 (equates to an R-12), but the one I found is about 1/8" thicker then what was there. The jury is still out on this bearing. A picture of all the parts laid out that go in the trans. The number for the bronze bearings that go in the axle housing is CB 1618-12. The number for the bronze bearings that fit the differential housing is CB 2224-14...these are about 1/2" too long and need to be cut to an 1 1/2" length. The axle seals are only available from Toro #83-2840...these are running about $19.00 each. I got the rest of the bearings and seals from Motion Industries...very reasonable.

I wanted to start a thread on the coming restoration of my 518h. I plan to have custom hood decals done that add the word "Special" to it as it will have a Eaton 1100 pump/rear end swap done in the process of being restored. I will also refresh the Onan while its appart, I could repower but I absolutly love the throaty roar of the Onan engines. Here are some pics of the tractor, the condition of the hood and the near new snowblade that needs the angle control lever. Mike

Hi guys-I feel like a rookie asking this question-but- I must-The people that govern Foster Care/Guardianship for kids, in their infinite wisdom, are making cuts to programs that help kids like these. Instead of bailing out, like a lot of Folks are, I am in it for the duration. This means I have to get my "Ducks in a Row" , things caught up, to weather the storm. I am thinking of selling my 1966- 656. I put a lot of work into it-but I only have 2 Wheel Horses-the other, a C-125 A-is my work horse. The 656 was my mower because of the way the rear discharge deck cuts. The question I need the answer for is a Classic-"whats it worth"? Comes as you see it, with Deck, factory short block 6hp tecky-timed with a dial gauge, new engine electrics, I installed a new starter on it-have the diode plate but did not put it on. Runs great-strong-no noise-no smoke. New shifter boot, etc. You may remember I got this in boxes, e -tanked, sanded and triple coated the new paint. Tires are decent-tiny dry cracks-slot hitch & handmade rear quick hitch for a snow plow. Much more-it took me a great deal of work to complete it-it is NOT show quality-just a good worker. Here are some pics- Please give me an idea of its value-Thanks-Al

Just got my new Lawn & Garden Tractor magazine today, and lo and behold, there's TT's dragster. Congrats Terry :thumbs:

Check out what came with my C-160 that I just picked up!

besure to stop in at cuba cheese in cuba NY off 17/86 west Brian

I second that Vin! It's all about the profit. They'll ship it over-seas even if it only makes them $0.10 more per unit. My sons class was having those rubber wrist bands made for a class mate that is sick. The company offered two options, ones made over-seas and the same ones made here in the USA. The over-seas one cost $0.25 less per band than ones that were made here in the USA. The kids decided to buy the ones made in the USA, even though they new it would cut into the money they were raising for the kid. I was very proud of them! Maybe there is hope!!!

Nope Varisd and SOI. It was Inna-Gadda-Davita by the Iron Butterfly, 21 minutes long, on the underdash 8 track with 8 inch rear speakers fully cranked! Hmmmm. Save Old "Iron" ... "Iron" Butterfly??? Coincidence? I think not SOI! Are you keeping something from RS ?? WoW! Do I get a degree in Electronics if I live through this? If the "Choke" solves the issue do I get to reverse connect that 470uf and see if it explodes?? No need for calling the FBI here, just had my JD and fooling around folks. Videos to follow for sure if I get to blow it up. I will pick up a "Choke" tomorrow as well and first try the inline + alligator connection (better make a note to pick up more alligator clips!). Which do I connect to my left earlobe for ground? Just having a laugh here as it gets more interesting. Point of information, my coiled power cord to the strobe is connected under the rear right corner of the seat pan and extends up to a 3 ft high post mounted behind the driver from the weights mounted on the hitch bar. Is that close enough for the spark wire to still create the noise in the coiled "antenna"? POI 1990 312-8 has a Magnum 12HP Kohler. Have no idea on Regulator but strobe works fine on that tractor if direct wired to Battery. Haven't tried to tap into rear lights. 312 Batt came with tractor 2 yrs ago so older than that. Cranks well. C-125 Batt is about 2 yrs old. Cranks fine. Both charge well at 13.5-14 volts and seem strong even in cold temps. So if the Choke works I am done and need to solder it inline from the Batt to the Cig plug. If not, try adding the .01uf Cap and test that? Then if not fixed add the 470 (correctly connected). If Choke not succsesful do I eliminate it or make it #3 in the fixes? .... Wait the drums are kickin' in right now on that Iron Butterfly misic. Back in a while........

Excellent - I did not scare you away. You passed the first test. I am sure how much of a trek it is to the Radio Shack store, so if another $1.50 is not going to break the bank, pick up one of these also Model: 100 µH RF Choke | Catalog #: 273-102 This should bring back memories from the 70's of the puttering noise in your new 8 track player caused by alternator "whine". Maybe, just maybe, we can place one of these pieces outside the strobe light to cure the issue. You mentioned earlier about not fully grasping the theory of what we are doing. The issue will either turn out to be electrical voltage spikes coming in to the strobe thru the power cord or electrical impulses being broadcast by the spark plug wire being "received" by the strobe light timer circuit. Either condition will falsely instruct the timer to fire and increase the frequency of the lamp flashes. Note, the spark plug "broadcasts" a high voltage RF pulse 60 times per second at 3600RPM (some add on tach's and timing lights depend on this "broadcast" from the spark plug wire to function). In addition, the primitive style voltage regulator of the C series is spewing out DC voltage pulses at about the same rate onto the electrical circuit of the tractor. A healthy battery may be able to supress most of these pulses. A battery with some age will not be able to supress this interference as well as a fresh battery. Does your 312 have a newer battery than the c125? Just a thought. The issue with the 312 may be explained if a magnum series engine is on the 312. The Onan style regulator on the magnum may be a more advanced and less hostile regulator toward modern day electrical accessories. The .01uf cap will act as short only to high frequency ac signals - any DC voltage across the leads of the cap will not be affected. This characteristic allows any high frequency noise pulses from the regulator to be diverted away from entering the (+) power line of the strobe. Placement of the capacaitor in the strobe will divert any power line pulse pulses. Any interference that is transmitted from the spark plug wire and "received" by the coiled wire power cable (antenna) will also be diverted back to gorund. The RF choke acts has a similar effect. Instead of diverting the impulses to ground it simply is electrically too slow to react to them and fails to pass the quick impulses up the power cord to the strobe. If this issue turn out to be a power line issues only and not a spark plug noise issue, the RF choke may solve the entire problem. If you pick one up tomorrow, the first thing I would do before digging back into the strobe would be to alligator clip the RF choke in series with the (+) tip on the cigarette lighter plug to battery power and alligator the negative tab on the cig plug to tractor ground. Again, this one addition may be enough to solve your issue. Thanks Wyatt for taking the time to investigate this issue. I'm sure it will help others if they run across this same issue. Hopefully we will have a $3 fix for them.

Hey Ryan!! I am so excited to see this picture! How is the little guy doing?!?! Running, moving, and mowing yet?!

Erie,Pa to Le Sueur Mn is about 15 hours...here is a picture of it at the Le Sueur MN show before I brought it home aslo sitting with it is a 502 I got from Indiana thanks to RS members. My limit for driving is about 4 hours one way and it has to be pretty special for me to go that far since my truck is getting about 12mpg. A lot of sellers are willing to meet part way which helps a lot.

BK...if Scott would have got in (chicken) , we all may have not been on the bottom. :)

The insurance dude is outside as I type this... He was pretty impressed with how clean it is for the yr. of the van. He looked inside and said, oh this is nice....He told me the book value is a little over 5 grand so it is going to be fixed.

8 hours round trip thats a normal outing for the wife and I I have been looking at that tractor also to buy but I keep thinking over thirty some tractors I need it like a hole in my head Brian

Only an 8 hour round trip? Depending on what you drive, that's probably only $100-150 in gas at most. Would you pay $450 to have found that down the street? I'm going to guess yes. So then, it's really only about the time. That's not even a whole day. Get up and leave by 4 and you're home at noon.... or leave at 4 in the afternoon and be home by midnight. It's only 8 hours. I went farther than that for one thing on an auction! 18 hour round trip to bag my first 4 wheeled wagon several years ago. :thumbs:

Whopper Wednesday is the order of the day. Careful, leave arm rests up or get a wider seat. To add enough weight, start chowin' down in early spring to be ready for winter snow. Hey! You could build an enclosed awning over the walkway! :woohoo:

I did a 14 hr round trip a few yrs ago. At that time I had a 91 Jeep Cherokee that had 240,000 miles on it. She never let me down. I was halfway to getting to the guys house when it was time to top off the tank. I pulled off to the truck stop/gas station along the highway to fuel up. As I'm walking around the front of the Jeep I see at least a quart of oil under my Jeep! Yep, it was from mine. I knew that rear main seal was weak but Damn! I mulled it over for a second (maybe two) and said screw it, I'm gonna roll the dice. I didn't come this far for nothing. I topped off the tank (and the oil) and continued on my merry way. I made it to my destination, bought the boat and trailer BACK that I sold this clown only a few months earlier! Yeah I know, who's really the clown here? I stopped off at the local NAPA and decided to give some rear main seal swell snake juice a try. Worked for me! Made it home going 70mph the whole way while cranking some Waylon Jennings and Johny Cash, with not a care in the world.........Do it, ya only live once. Oh man, almost forgot, then there was the time I bought that travel trailer way up in Mass. Ah, I'll have to save that story for another time!

How far is too far? Well it's all in how you look at what degree of Wheel Horse nut you are. Looking at some of the prior post it makes me fill a little better on all the traveling I have done to chase down a Wheel Horse tractor or attachment. There is no common sense to any of this. Any of the acquisitions that I have traveled for would have to be made of gold to even try and recover what it cost to get them, then fix them up. I guess it's just a passion in every sense of the word. A love way down deep inside that only another Wheel Horse nut can understand. So to ask how far is too far. Too far can only be measured in the degree of how bad you want it. When it comes down to common sense you can not even use that word when it comes to a Wheel Horse collecting because it's a whole different world you inter with really no exit. It just keeps sucking you in deeper. Here lately it does not even care if your young or old. Once it's got you it's got you.

my 551 saw two shows and a couple hundred miles before it got to its new home thanks to RS members.

In my opinion a 702 with hy-2 and back rest for 300.00 I would have already left. :handgestures-thumbupright:

Jim, welderman85 and Kelly, I had a lot of information on the work horse paint but it is buried somewhere. I believe the metallic was only used on the 1982 Wheel Horse Work Horse. It was part number 80335 for the aerosol can and was called "Grey-Pewter Metallic". It may also have been used for certain parts of the GT2500. For some reason, maybe cost?, for 1983-1984, they switched to part number 80337 and was called "Grey-Pewter". The "Grey-Pewter Metallic" was a great color. Why it was only used one year is a mystery to me since it really looked sharp. There must have been a cost factor. I do have an equivalent automobile color somewhere but can't locate it right now. I think one of the Grey-Pewters was equivalent to a Mercury or Chrysler automobile color. The fender in the previous picture and this picture are from a GT1848 that went for about $1,000 on eBay a few years ago.

Glen the 64 lbs in each wheel is rim guard. The rim guard, wheel, & tire (23x8.50x12) weight 83 lbs total. I also have a set of 10.50 bar tires loaded with rim guard, Total weight on them is 103 lbs. I use that one with them here at home with chains on my stone drive way. My dad used the tractor at the flower shop in a 5" to 6" snow. I have not used it yet. He said he had problems more so backing up. Witch as most know bar tires get better traction in one direction than the other. Now I will have to decide more weight, rubber chains, or both. And as for me adding weight myself. Everybody that knows me thinks I have a tape worm. I eat like a horse and never gain any weight.

I have an Onan 416-8 and I can move my 18 foot bed(21 foot overall), all steel floor,tilt bed car trailer around with it. It will even back it up a slight incline in the grass to get it up behind my house. I sometimes have to put my Chevy Blazer in 4WD to back it up there!

If you do end up with another brand that doesn't have a negative enough offset you can do wheel spacers to make up the difference. I got some Jeep 5x4.5 spacers off of eBay and used threaded 7/8" rod to make studs. These off-white painted JD 23x8.5" wide rims work nicely with this arrangement -- if I didn't have the spacers, I'd have rubbing issues for sure:

If you read through this thread from the beginning as I just did, it reinforces what makes this forum the great place it has become! Everyone has a passion for these machines and is quick to steer a new member toward what he or she thinks is the best unit for the purpose while respecting the views of others. But what really sets it apart is the undercurrent of excitement, sort of like each of us is purchasing the tractor for ourselves! So Typhke, as others have said, welcome to , and if I were making the purchase, it would be the 416 for sure - largely because of Vincent's reputation for taking care of his equipment, because the 16 Kohler single is a great motor, and I'll admit it - I'm a maroon stripe fanatic! Duff :thumbs:

I dont know what I do is called I call em a Refresh and Rebuild mostly because how can I do a restoration when I cant even get the exact paint Wheel Horse used which incidentally in the early years of the Round Hoods came from Niles Chemical Paint here in my Hometown (still in buisness here today) I have an old 78 year old friend of mine who is retired and worked in the coatings lab and was involved in mixing the paint. I was a stern believer of using Automotive Type paint Like Dupont or PPG but the past two tractors I spruced up 417A and the 520 Snow Chucker were done with 100% Valspar. Like Kevin, I have done some modifications along the way that I feel Improved the tractor. The way I feel about it with the condition I get most of my Tractors in. Anything I do to them is an Improvement. The main thing is like has been said already is, Just Have Fun and Enjoy Yourself. Cheers ~Duke

I LIKE THE ORIGINAL LOOK MYSELF. I DID THE MUSCLECAR THING IN THE 80's-90s WHEN IT WAS SOMEWHAT AFFORDABLE. I RESTORED THEM TO SELL FOR A PROFIT, THAT'S HARD TO DO NOW WITH THE PRICE OF NOS PARTS TODAY. THE WHEEL HORSE TRACTOR ARE EASIER TO DO AND PARTS ARE EASIER TO COME BY. THE ONLY THING I THINK IS EXPENSIVE IS A NICE SEAT. I HAVE BOUGHT AND SOLD 15-20 TRACTORS IN THE PAST FIVE YEARS. I FIX THE THE MECHANCIAL ITEMS,CLEAN,POLISH AND USALLY PAINT THE DECKS. I USE THE CORRECT FASTNERS AND PLATING. I RESTORE THEM THE BEST I CAN WITHOUT SPENDING A TON OF MONEY ON THEM. YOU WILL NEVER HAVE A BUYER WALK AWAY BECAUSE IT IS ORIGINAL AND NOT JUST SLAPPED TOGETHER . IT'S ONLY ORIGINAL ONCE AND KNOWN AS A SURVIVOR AND THEH A ORIGINAL RESTORED. DO WHAT YOU CAN AFFORD. TO RESTORE A TRACTOR LIKE A CAR YOU COULD SPEND $2000 OR MORE ON IT. JUST ENJOY DOING IT, I DO. JUST MY TWO CENTS. BOWTIE IN OHIO

Now this is clever!!! No not just clever, VERY very clever! http://www.youtube.com/embed/iKqpvriKZuA

1. wheel horse 1257 2.wheel horse 754 3.wheel horse gt 14 with 3 pt. hitch 4.commando 8 5. c 120-8 speed or automatic

1. EARLY 953 2. 1054 3. 1054A 4. 520 H (1996) 5. 420 LSE THESE WOULD BE MY PICKS BUT NOT IN ANY ORDER.

In no order at all my top 5 would be 520H 701 603 C-195 C-160 8 speed These are subject to change at any time B)

There is a part of the governor called the cross shaft that is inserted as one of the first parts when reassembling the engine. The end of the cross-shaft is what sticks out through the brass bushing nut and the governor arm attaches too. There is a plate riveted to the cross shaft inside the engine that is activated by the pendulums on the governor gear. That part is known to come off. When it does, the governor is no longer functional, and the engine will rev out of control. Unfortunately, the repair requires almost total disassembly of the engine. The way to find out if this is the problem is to loosen the bolt that secures the governor arm. Rotate the governor shaft counter-clockwise. It should stop. If it doesn't, your cross shaft has come apart.