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I did 9 hours round trip 2 stops for a blade chains and weights. Shows how much i hate to shovel snow!!!

In my opinion a 702 with hy-2 and back rest for 300.00 I would have already left. :handgestures-thumbupright:

+1 on Mark's comments. Good insight. One quick check to see if the device is defective, poorly designed or just a poor performer in an electrically noisey enviroment, simply plug the strobe into your car's lighter socket. If it strobes properly with the car off and then properly with the engine running, the root cause is most likely the electrically noisey environment of the tractors charging system (and they are extremely noisey). As Mark stated, batteries make excellent filters but not for all high frequency noise generated by RR switching on and off and the close proximity of the spark plug wiring to the 12 volt wiring. Trust us on this. There are entire books written on just this subject alone. The idea of a resistor inserted into the power line will most likely result in a significant performance compromise. The issue is one of very different current demands drawn during the LED off and on cycle. Catch 22. If you insert a resistor large enough to limit the small current demand of the timer circuit, when it does fire the LED, the resulting voltage drop across your "fix" most likely will snuff out significant current to the LED's. LED's are current driven devices and your timer is voltage driven. You might get it "just right" with resistor trial and error, but then end up with more $$ in resistors than you have in the cost of the strobe. I'm not sure how comfortable you are with electronics (and I believe this is an electronic issue - not an electrical issue). You may wish to add a set of filtering capacitiors onto the circuit board. This would be much cheaper than swapping out a marginal RR unit. I don't see any evidence of electrical noise filtering on the circuit board. A quick low $$ fix may be a small 0.01uf cap, and if there is room, a 470uf 35v electrolytic cap soldered directly across the (+) and (-) pads where the power cord attaches to the circuit board - probably $2 total @ Radio Shack. The .01uf capacitor will act as an electrical "short circuit" to high frequency noise only. Any spark plug or RR switching noise entering thru the wiring onto the circuit board will be shorted to ground before entering into the timer circuit. The bigger blue electrolytic cap acts as a "electron bath tub". The blue cap will store a respectable charge between LED flashes. When the timer fires, the LED's can draw from the "bath tub" and not have to draw all the required current up thru a long length of possibly undersized wires. Result is better performance. Why didn't the folks who designed this put in the extra 50 cents of components? Either they were too busy telling their Facebook friends what they had to eat for lunch that day and how the waitress did not make them feel "special", or their sales manager figured the extra 50 cents would make them "uncompetitive". I weep for the next generation.

Any good black spray paint such as Rustoleum gloss black should work on the chassis. The metallic grey that was used when the Work Horse first came out looks better than the later grey.

I like good old rustoleum it has served me well over the years, I when using a rattle can, in that brand I go for Regal red. This tractor was done with it 2 winters ago, still not bad looking, it has dulled some, but I'm happy with it for a basic paint job. The tomb stone weight and plow are orig. paint, you can see the tractor is a bit darker, but I like it over the other rattle can colors. be careful painting with a baby in the house, the fumes to you may not be bad, but it could be very bad for him/her. OPPS I see your doing a gray tractor not a red one :hide:

Any one will do. You can think in terms of which is most practical (probably the C121) or which you would enjoy owning the most. At some point you will want one of each. In my view, there is no better trailer tug, at least for my situation, than a D series. I have heavy things to move around and I just enjoy having it.

I like my 416-H pulling the trailer, I think that an 8-Speed 416 would even be better for that task.

I've had a couple members ask about my lift that's on a couple other posts. I told them I would make a thread to show the build, so here goes. I had seen similar lifts on a snowmobile forum, but it didn't move. When you put the snowmobile on it, it was where it was until you finished. I wanted something more like a kid's wagon, that I could move around in the shop, or even roll outside to paint a tractor on. So with that in mind... I took some small 6-inch wheels and front axle from a junk mower. Here's the front axle I made up: Using 2-inch channel, I made the frame up: Like the snowmobile lift, I used two parallel racks. this was the first mock up: Then I made the "carrier", so it would fit any front-engine wheel horse. Almost all of these tractors are the same size between the foot rest bar and the tranny plate. That's where the carrier would need to attach. I wanted it to positively hold the tractor frame, so I could take a tractor down to the bare frame, or start assembly of one the same way. The carrier locks onto the frame with a modified mid hitch: All the pivots are on 3/4 hardened bolts. A little red paint, and here we are: I used a $ 20 trailer tongue lift from TSC, and used it to raise the racks. It pushes from the back and passes through the braces on the racks. I had originally planned on using an electric motor to turn the cylinder, but never found one with the torque to do it. Unloaded was fine, but with 500lbs on it, it just wasn't enough. So I made it manual, and made a "floating support" for the crank. I used a UV joint from a Honda 4-wheeler at the crank: I made a sliding brace to catch the racks at full up. It holds the racks up even if the jack breaks, and has to be pulled up to lower the tractor: And I made full up stops so I never could go past the "push" side of the jack: I also wanted to be able to steer this around, so I took the steering parts from the junk mower too: I made a "t" handle, but wanted to be able to tow this with another tractor too. Just pop the pin and the hitch is ready, or stow it for pushing by hand: So, use a set of ramps like this to drive a tractor on, and raise the tractor. Then remove the ramps and you're all set: It raises the tractor about 30 inches, which was just right. No more broken back from tedious stuff: With the frame locked in, even rocking the stand over on it's side won't let the tractor fall off. It is VERY stable. And that's it. It works great, and I wouldn't sell it for anything as long as I'm restoring tractors. Patents pending... Hehe

16 onan. Runs decent but could use a little work and mufflers. Starting to like bartering.

Met the guy up in Peru, IN today. The 518 fired right up. Hydro feels ok for sitting unused for 5 years. He hasnt worked it much either. Tractor has 1098 hours on it. Onan has very light blue on hard throttle up, he says it clears up once run for a bit. Compression numbers are good. I will run some Seafoam thru the gas to try and free up the oil control rings. Probably a little sticky from lack of use. Definatly has some paint adhiesion problems, but I plan to have it blasted and repainted professionaly, or atleast the hood, fender and foot rests. It came with a blade that he never put on it, so I need the rear axle quick tach mount and the control lever for the blade angle. She will be a nice horse once freshened up and upgraded. Came with nice rear hubcaps, need to find a decent pair of fronts. All the gauges work perfectly, which was a supprise. Here is a pic he sent me. The decals on the hood are all removed since it was taken as he was starting to prep to repaint, but thats as far as he got. Mike

I feel so sorry for you guys up north when you have to travel a few miles to get a tractor Thats just horrible. Note: Traveled from Mississippi To central New jerzey in a Mercury Marquis with the back seat out and disassembled a 701 and brought it back, comfy ride and nice tractor then a few months later went to north Jerzey and picked up another one, now we have his and hers in the shed. Both 701s are now in very good condition, Jim @ Dee Rodgers now in Texas

It wasnt a WH, but I had a gentleman and his son drive from upstate Vermont to Erie, PA to pick up a vintage Artic Cat snowmobile I had for sale. They collected them and were always looking for ones that ran and were not modified or hotrodded out. Wife and I miss Erie and dont miss it at the same time. Her folks still live in Lake City, so we get back there from time to time. Mike

my 551 saw two shows and a couple hundred miles before it got to its new home thanks to RS members.

I bought a 1045 a few years ago, in CT, and a member here picked it up for me, and held on to it till the WH show in PA and took it there, I was at the show but had no way to get it home, but did touch it for the first time in months, then another member here took to IN, from the show, and then another from IN brought it to my house in MI to a meet and greet I had, this whole thing was done with planning and the GREAT members here on RS. As for driving to get one, about 6 hour round trip, but I don't do that any more, can't aford to feed my Suburban to do it.

i've gone 600 miles one way. been to ny a few times to bring back horses. for that price i'd grab it.

i have been to ohio to ct to va to del. to ny just for tractors and i live in biglerville pa if u want it drive

I'm going to Columbus OH this weekend I may have room on the way back. Not sure but possible If I was after it you know I'd have it, A couple hundred well six hundred miles shucks gets me out of the house fer the day

any closer redsquare members that can help u in your trip or hualing help never herts to ask

I might be able to help if I sell my two since I would prob be going your way

Hello all, my name is Rick Robinson and I have just been bitten by the the Wheel Horse bug!! My father taught my how to mow the lawn in the early 1970s and my very first tractor experience was on a "Wheel Horse". As a 7 year old boy who loved anything that had 4 wheels and a steering wheel this was a thrill. Then in about 1974 my dad traded the old Wheel Horse in on a new Penncraft 8 H.P. tractor from JC Penny. I actuall cried the day the old Wheel Horse left our house on someone else's trailer. I don't remember the year or model tractor we had, but that ol tracter left a lasting impression on me. I am a Corvette & Classic Car Dealer and got a lead on a old Corvette that had been sitting for years that was available. When I drove to the gentleman's home, I couldn't help but notice how neat and well kept the property was. Well, I looked at the car but sitting in the corner was this beautiful Wheel Horse tractor. He told me he bought it new in 1965 and always kept it nice. He updated to a new Wheel Horse in the late 1980s, but couldn't bring himself to sell the old 65. I bought the Corvette and told him if he ever wanted to sell the 65 Please call me. Well, about two weeks ago I got the call! He and his wife sold the house and were going to relocate in Arizona. So I am now the owner of this extremely well kept, original 1965 855. The hood and seat pan and some sheet metal were painted in the early 1990s, but the original motor, tires etc. still remain. I just need a decal set. Oh, I hope someone here can shed light on this, but Jim, the original owner said the wheels on this tractor were silver when he purchased it new, but I have never seen this before as I thought they were always a off white color. So that's my story and I look forward to growing in his new hobby. Thanks in advance. Rick

I like my rubber tire chains. are they better than v-bar or regular chains?, no. but they don't tear up the 7 pails of blacktop sealer My wife and I put down this year! Lucky, I got mine of CL for $15.00.

Well there's more credence to the fact that I think it's an NOS engine. I had to pull the carb apart because gas was pouring out of it when I opened the petcock on the tank while getting ready to start it. The inside of the carb was like new. There was no signs of fuel ever being anywhere inside. I made sure the float and needle valve were working properly and re-adjusted the external adjustments per the manual. Put it back together and re-installed it back on the engine. Opened the petcock on the tank and made sure fuel was no longer leaking from the carb. Pulled the rope starter a few times to no avail. Removed the spark plug to see if it was wet. Had some of the mystery oil still on it. Cleaned that off and sprayed it with carb cleaner. Then sprayed a little carb cleaner down the spark plug hole and re-installed the plug. Wrapped the pull start and gave it a yank. She fired off and runs great. No smoke or funny noises. I let it run for around 15 minutes at a low idle.

But....... the object of the game is to not run into things. Brings to mind a Larry the Cable Guy saying: If they can blame McDonalds for making people fat, then I can blame misspelled words on my pencil. :hilarious:

Managed to get a bit more done. Just a couple of shots as how far. Only a coat of primer and one of tractor paint so far. When I get the index lever fitted, which is now made, and connected to the pin I'll have a trial run. If all ok I'll strip it down and give it a final coat. One thing I have noticed when fitted on the tractor, is that the blade sits to the left hand side. The bar at the back must be slightly off square with the side tubes. Not by much, but over 5ft it pushes the blade over 1-1/2 inch. Mentally given myself a good slapping. I'll know better for next time. :teasing-poke:

I HAVE THE SAME LIGHT ON MY GT-14 AND IT HAS ALWAYS BEEN GOOD. I DO GO RIGHT TO THE BATTERY. YOU WILL NOT LEAVE IT ON WHEN SHUTTING DOWN. IT IS VERY BRIGHT.

Yes, the rubber cross links would work with Bar Lug tires, . . . but they would work much better with turf tires (by having much more contact with ground). I would recommend more weight in/on the rear tires. Since you already have 64# weights on them, consider having RimGuard put in the tires (50#+ each, with tubes), or add inside rear weights (hard to find). Google RimGuard, most tractor/truck tire shops can do this, about $75/tire. Plan 'B' is to use Windshield or RV Antifreeze, these can be done by yourself at home. would add about 40#/tire. Plan 'C' is to gain weight yourself, 300# would give your tractor lots of traction. Also, be sure to add 10-20# to the front tires to help with steering, that makes a big difference.

Yeppers, being a professional small engine mechainc, I am well aware of the maintaince needs of the Onan engines. I am swapping out the rear end to a 1100 series Eaton set up in the next couple weeks, and yes it will have all new fluids and filters. The engine will get its oil changed and filter here shortly as well. Mike

And buy one with a Kohler engine! I'm not saying that those briggs engines are not good but wait untill you hear and feel the power of a Kohler! :laughing-rofl:

Well let me thank everyone here for the help. I finally got to close it out, yesterday. Of course, had I been smarter to start with this whole ordeal would have gone a lot smoother. When I originally disassembled the starter I didn't take the top end off (the retaining nut, spring and gear), I just removed the two long screws and pulled the cover and whole top end off. So, when I wanted to put it together again...no dice. It's almost impossible to reassemble with the cover (w/magnets) over the armature. Once I took apart the top end the rest was not so bad. I fiddle around with motorcycles and cars and often go to forums for help but this is by far the most helpful and informative forum I have been involved with. My neighbor came by when I was working on the Horse and asked me why I don't just buy new tractors and not have to deal with the repair. He doesn't know what he's missing. Truth be told, I have purchased new many times but none of them could hold a candle to the 2 Wheel Horses that I have. Hard to explain but they are just what a small tractor is supposed to be. Thanks again.

Either tractor with the 8-speed is the better choice, IMHO. I have pulled a 4'x8' trailer full of oak (about a ton!) with Scott's heavy hitch... I definitely appreciated the low gears for this heavy load. The 12HP K301 pulled it just fine.

Duke I clicked on the pic in your signature and read this thread. Awesome job! Here is the problem, ever DVR a tv show and the previous program runs over time and you miss the last ten minutes of the show? Well where are the pics of the mower deck racks installed?

I was at his 50th birthday party. He was pretty sloshed and started ragging on the Packers. So I started busting on him calling him a Fair-Weather Queenie fan. He drops his drawers showing his tat (along with Big Jim and the Twins) to everybody that was there! :jaw:

Very cool project kelly! You should put a turbo on that diesel engine! P-J

I made some clips out of galvanized metal to hold in the bushings while getting the armature to seat.

I've been meaning for a couple years to try the roller chain, I think I have enough here from blowers to do it, I just this week got the blower rear chains and all 4 wheel weights on, just need to install the cab, and may try the rollers, oh and on my plow tractor I have tri ribs I like them, not only do they have a sharp edge to help turn, the put all the weight of the tractor on one small spot, so it in a way has more down pressure per square inch., instead of like a wide tire that will act like a float on top of snow.

:text-welcomeconfetti:

in response to changing the belt... i just remove two of the three bolts and loosen the third bolt that holds the flange bearing behiind the pulley. this creates enough "play" to move the pulley away from the housing and remove/replace the belt.