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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/30/2012 in all areas
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6 pointsI have been loving all the seat time the past few days. This is my first winter with the horse and I can't say how impressed I am with it. The plow has been more then capable with several feet of old snow on my dirt driveway. Makes me wonder if I even need to bother fixing up the snowblower. Not sure how much higher ill be able to push up the piles though!
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4 pointsP'Chop working his first snow removal account. He was all :happy-jumpeveryone:
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4 pointsHad a Piddley Snow Last Night So This Morning I Piddled a Bit and Broke in My Grand Daughter Henny as My New Camera Man errrr um I mean (lady) Some Snow Is Better than None I Guess. And at least heres a few pictures of it doin what its suppose to do, than getting pictures of it in the Shop. This Rebuilt 520-SC (snow chucker) has been itchin fer a fight for a month now and still hasn't got the competition it deserves, Oh well maybe next year. Cheers ~Duke
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3 pointsPoor man's tri-rib. $20 worth of #40 roller chain and you won't have any problems with the front tires drifting. Deflate the tires and remove them in the spring.
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3 pointsMore pics from the 6-8" plus drifting that we got yesterday: All lined up and idling. I love the rain cap on Elvis at idle TINK TINK TINK! Horse Power! A little back blade action Elvis ready to dig in Elvis loves the Horses. They make nice piles to move!
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3 pointsWe ended up with 10"-12"s by the time it was over.....nice and fluffy! My GT was a bit overwelmed by the amount of snow. She coulda done it with half passes but I decided to give my old Gilson walk behind a workout since it only was used once last year. The Gilson (8hp Briggs / 26" cut) handled it with ease. Its nice to have a big old all steel heavy-duty snowblower. My dad has one of those newer Ariens and its so light that it wont dig in....it actually starts to ride up over the snow. Mike............
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2 pointsDon1977 got me thinking about this again so I decided too do it as the 1533 bearing is no longer available from toro My fix needs some machine work to beable to do this replacement the standard 1533 bearing dim. are 1 1/2" ID x 2 1/2" OD x 1/2" W the new R22 bearing I'm replacing it with is 1 3/8" ID x 2 1/2" OD x 7/16" W so this requires I remove .0625 from the differential hubs Since we don't have a manual lathe at work I setup my vertical lathe turned the dia. to 1.375 plus 0 minus .0005 1533 bearing is on the left and the R22 bearing is on the right notice the R22 is a heavier bearing and should work just fine as the original 1533 bearing is 1/2" wide and the R22 is 7/16" wide I use a .0625 shim to make up the differance shim in place on diff. hub R22 bearing installed with shim this should work fine for the old transmissions that use the 1533 bearing with 1" axles Brian
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2 pointsSo it's safe to say we all love using our garden tractors for my snow removal. It is something I actually look forward to (until about mid to late March ). This years line line up: 416H with cab and single stage blower - love the cab - no snow in the face! C-160 Hydro with 508QM ARK loader 314-8 with 54" snow blade (D series) with front wheel weights to help stay on course with an angled blade. And in case all else fails a 22" MTD blower and my favorite shovel I think it is going to be a big year for snow...not even January yet!
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2 pointsWe got 12" last night. Here's a video of me snow blowing the driveway with my 520 & 2-stg blower:
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2 pointsgot it running did a few things really not sure of root cause if i had to guess it was the ammeter wire the new battery had no charge thanks to all
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2 pointsNice one copperhead, that gets my vote for the December, 2014 calendar.
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2 pointsNo, that is a 1974 C-160 Auto. It was the 1st restoration I ever done (about 11 years ago). My wife's grandpa passed away and I bought it at his estate auction for $200. The motor had a broken rod and I decided to restore the tractor and rebuild the motor. Learned at lot about Wheelhorses during that project. Gave it back to my mother-in-law, which in-turn my son, now 8, mows and pushes snow when he is at grandparents house. Funny how the world goes round. I didn't live in Chillicothe until 2004. I don't even live in the city limits, about 7 minutes north of town right next to the Vocational school. Grew up in a small town of Adelphi, about 20 minutes north east of Chillicothe. Thad (Ohio)
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2 pointsI can't afford a tractor that I can't use. My 704 looks nice and I take it to shows,but I can't justify having if if it doesn't do at least a little work like pulling a wagon,roller,lawn sweeper or delivering pizza's in the rain at the Steam Pageant! :)
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1 pointDon't know if you can push more than this ....but I was pretty impressed plowing my mother's sidewalk. Thad (Ohio)
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1 pointShe will let you in the yard but good luck getting out. LOL Nobody's gonna take one of my horses with her there. Gene.
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1 pointGot to play today, we got about 5" of fluffy snow. Started using my black hood with a 14hp and a 48" blade. It was doing great until the right rear tire bead popped off. Switched over to the C160 with a blower and it ate up the stuff the town left. Then took out my C161 with a 42" blade to clean up everything. Couldn't let my comando 800 sit so I took it out and tried the plow. It needs weight and chains but its fun to play with. Hope everyone had fun playing in the snow, I know I did. Gene..
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1 pointhere are 1 pict from morning 29th dec and here is a pict 24 hrs later. We had a lot of rain and 37 to 43 degrees F.. last 24 hrs and it looks like we going to have rain for the next 2 days.. Lars
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1 pointThe easyist way is to let the air out of the tire fi rst then put the chains on as tight as you can than air the tire back up. Also i put some rubber straps on the chains to keep them snug.
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1 pointOf course I shredded the drive belt. At least I was mostly done with the removal
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1 pointThat is a nice clean specimen. Just a note for you. The factory set up for the dozer blade used a foot pedal that connects to the pin with a small chain to pull it when angling the blade. A small rope like clothes line is used that hooks to each top corner of the blade with S hooks and drapes around the steering wheel. Push the pedal to release the pin and use the rope to pull the blade for changing the angle from the seat.
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1 point"T" stands for Tractor. You're either seeing yours wrong, or someone at the factory used the wrong stamp. The letter prefix was used to identify the type of equipment and the following numbers often denoted horsepower, swath / width / size, model year, etc. A few quick examples would be..... RM-366 = Rotary Mower / 36" width of cut / 1966 ST-376 = Snow Thrower / 37" swath / 1966 As with other Wheel Horse products, this was not a consumer-friendly (nor consistent) identification system.
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1 pointMan I can't believe how straight that hood is. It's the nicest original I've ever seen next the NOS 61' 401 hood I bought a few years back. I hope you bring that to the big show this year in PA. I'd like to see it in person.
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1 pointHad a Piddley Snow Last Night So This Morning I Piddled a Bit and Broke in My Grand Daughter Henny as My New Camera Man errrr um I mean (lady) Some Snow Is Better than None I Guess. And at least heres a few pictures of it doin what its suppose to do, than getting pictures of it in the Shop.
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1 pointThat's one happy SIL, think the daughter will get to try the Stallion mowin' the lawns? Not much to fix up, you've already covered all the bases. Merry Christmas & Happy New Year!
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1 pointVan - not fair. We know your son-in-law will win the $$$'s race fixing up that tractor because you are already Wheelhorse poor... ;)
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1 pointHere is a picture of the plow that off my dad's 701. It has angle iron that clamps to the frame and bolts to the A frame . The lock for the plow pivot is operated with your foot and has a smaller lever. Not sure if it's stock but I have had two frames with this set up. Now I have the plow on my Camando 800 not quite the right plow for this but it works. Hope you figure it out. Gene...
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1 pointHey everyone here is the final update! Thanks so much to everyone who helped me along the way! This forum has been so encouraging and the best in offering intelligent advice everytime! Today I put it all together with new zinc plated hardware and put it on my 414-8 and boy did it run nice! Such a geat feeling when something you spend a lot of time on works!! I love the regal red by Rustoleum...such a great match. Before... After!
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1 pointThough not shown on the tractor, the ol' yeller is there under the red on the belt guard, toolbox and fenders too. I think I remember reading that the yellow is actually some zinc, or cadmium type primer used back in the day under specific colors...red being one of them. Something like that.
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1 pointUmm...excuse me, there's always the amcrules museum...right over here at my house. Will make room for an NOS tractor anytime. :handgestures-thumbsup:
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1 pointThe Carlisle tire is called "All Trail" part # is 511505 and it is a 23x10.50-12. They are mounted on factory Wheel Horse rims, but they were from a 520H. Here is a photo of the tires without the chains....I really like them....the right balance between turf and ag tires. Easy on the lawn too. Thad (Ohio)
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1 pointHere is a couple more photos from plowing snow today. The tire and chain combo is the best I have ever used. I have tried just about as many different things out there from turf tires, ag tires, chains, no chains, wheel weights, no wheel weights...and this tire "Carlisle HD Field Trax" with 2-link chains and 50lbs weights seems to be the best. I have about a 300 foot driveway on a very steep incline. This setup seems to just plug right along whether we have a wet snow, fine snow, ice, slush....it just works in everything. Thad (Ohio)
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1 pointFinally got some snow worth getting the 314-H out for. Here are my photos from this morning. Thad (Ohio)
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1 pointI could very possibly be wrong, but I believed that the mount underneath the axle didnt come out until around the 70's, prior to that I thought they were mounted in front of the axle tubes. If you look at Rollermans picture from the "Snow Plow Info" thread () and read the text, it seems that the long frame plow (designed to mount under the axle) is 8" longer than the short frame plow (which I have always believed is supposed to mount forward of the axle). Looking at the picture it seems that the pivot point for the lever is about 8" further forward as well: If we assume there is a 2" difference in the mounting bracket location, then the length of the angle mechanism rod should be 6" shorter on the short frame plow when compared to the long frame plow. Since the chassis themselves are 4" different in length, this number seems reasonable. So I'm thinking that the short frame actuating rod should be 4-6" shorter than the long frame one. If it were me, I would forget the math and set the plow angle straight ahead. Disconnect the actuating rod and set the lever to straight up and down, and measure what length the rod needs to be. Make one that length and be done with it. If need be I do have a short frame plow buried in the shed and I can get a measurement. But ask me to do it before I get too warm or have too many beers in me... EDIT: Terry beat me to it. I'd go with the measure what you need and make it method.
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1 pointI don't think the problem is with the lever. I'd say the rod between the lever and the quadrant needs to be longer. Here's a picture of my 6-2111 blade: The lever is almost vertical when the blade is straight.
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1 pointJust picked up this blower for my D180 about a month ago and spent some time doing some basic restoration to make it usable this winter. Plan to take it all the way down in the spring, but this will do to get me through this winter. Looking forward to some snow!
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1 pointThat's the maddest/baddest looking Wh ever.. It's kind of a mix of Mad Max and Death race 2000.. Me likey a lot :handgestures-thumbup: Just don't paint it, it looks right as it is.
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1 pointGreat video! Thank for posting that. It's really great to be able to see the experience in another country.
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1 pointCongrats to your bro for the first place finish, can't wait for the video. Your refresh on the puller looks pretty good too Lars. :thumbs:
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1 pointThe front pump seal (WH # 7877) is a CR seal # 7474. While you have the pump out, you just as well replace the trunnion shaft seal on side linkage too. (WH #103461) is a CR seal #6763. And while you've gone that far you just as well replace the manifold o-ring & the hydro valve o-rings. Look the hoses over good for cracks while you're in there. I'm am just putting mine back together. Welcome to the "D" world. Tom , Perry Ks.