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my goal this year is to get as many of my tractors running & opperating as well as can be. my short term goal is to get all 4 of the tecky powered machines working. i'm half way there! the 1969 raider 9 i bought at Pittsburgh-Parts-Arama in 1994 & was in regular use untill 2002 when somthing went wrong with the trany. KPfrom NC.noticed the hub was moving but not the axle,so i replaced the hub & woodruff key flushed it out & installed new axle seals, shift boot &fresh 85-140 gear lube. i also fixed the battery box and put a new throttle cable, gas lines & fuel filter on it. I soaked the carb overnight & blew it out. it runs super! great at pushing leaves into the pile. the other one is a 1971 workhorse 800 that i bought last year from a RS. member he was restoring it when he had a mc. wreck & lost his leg. well the poor workhorse sat right where it was for several years till i steped in & saved it.this one needed a new carb from the late WHEELHORSEJUNKY. new throtle & choke cables, the trany flushed & new seals & boot & gearlube & 1 valve stem on 1 rear tire. then i welded the seat pan & installed a better seat. boy does it run well! now i only have to install the S.G. on the nos. hh120 on the 1967 1077 & put a tube & do a carb clean on the 1967 lawn ranger & all my tecumpseh powered machines will be work ready! so fellow members what are your WH. goals for 2013 ? HAPPY NEW YEAR JAY IN NC

or maybe I wasnt as good as I thought I was.But He came through. Picked up a C-160 in Oh. today. Its got some issues but it will make a nice project for the Winter and Spring and Summer. Lol. Has a running 341 on it like it should and the hubs have not drifted so the axles shoud be good unlike the 416 parts tractor I was given. A few missing parts as one would expect for the price I payed. Deck is junk. Im sure I will be asking for advice and looking for some parts down the road. Numbers 71-16K802 13779 7084 Jack

My goal, keep on fixin' and, keep my eyes wide open for a "D", heaven knows I had my share of "D's" when I was in school. One more "D" couldn't hurt! :laughing-rofl:

I could very possibly be wrong, but I believed that the mount underneath the axle didnt come out until around the 70's, prior to that I thought they were mounted in front of the axle tubes. If you look at Rollermans picture from the "Snow Plow Info" thread () and read the text, it seems that the long frame plow (designed to mount under the axle) is 8" longer than the short frame plow (which I have always believed is supposed to mount forward of the axle). Looking at the picture it seems that the pivot point for the lever is about 8" further forward as well: If we assume there is a 2" difference in the mounting bracket location, then the length of the angle mechanism rod should be 6" shorter on the short frame plow when compared to the long frame plow. Since the chassis themselves are 4" different in length, this number seems reasonable. So I'm thinking that the short frame actuating rod should be 4-6" shorter than the long frame one. If it were me, I would forget the math and set the plow angle straight ahead. Disconnect the actuating rod and set the lever to straight up and down, and measure what length the rod needs to be. Make one that length and be done with it. If need be I do have a short frame plow buried in the shed and I can get a measurement. But ask me to do it before I get too warm or have too many beers in me... EDIT: Terry beat me to it. I'd go with the measure what you need and make it method.

I would like to add THIS IS NOT ME, I don't work that way, first in line gets dibs, then if that person passes, next in line, then I wait for payment for a reasonable amount of time, and normally if I don't receive payment in a fair amount of time, I send a reminder asking if they still want the item, then I ship soon after getting payment, I do charge the Paypal fees to the buyer, they add up fast with the amount of items I sell, and they charge the fees on the total including shipping that I don't make money on, at the end of a year the fees can be very high on all the items I have sold, and asking each person to pay them, in my eye is better than me paying ALL of them. I normally figure my own shipping cost and do not charge any extra, for packing or any thing, but if the buyer wants to send me a label prepaid for shipping that is fine. If I worked that way I would be out of business in no time, a good seller/buyer relationship is a must.

Who doesn't like Pics! 704 plowing: C-160 blowing: I know not but Elvis moving the piles back!: Scars of battle:

1961 Panzer t70 i got this it was painted red and engine needed rebuild. I got all engine parts from napa, I sand blasted the chassis and found pin holes on the bottom of the tubing. They had been full of dirt mud grass and water rotted the frame out.No way to repair it. so i made 2 new frame rails for it and welded them to the rear axle. set it up in milling machine and drilled all the holes. The tubing on these tractors where made from black pipe, gas pipe odd size so i picked up some from lowes. well heres the frame now. after having this thing for three years. I got some paint on it. I have a brand new NOS deck for it too.rear diff i put bearings seals new brake linings and made new front spindles.

Meet Widestride. Modified C120 for logging work over rough terrain. Agri tyres to go on and independant rear brakes. Holds its course on steep banks and steers good. Very stable tractor, pulls a 4x5 4 wheel trailer and soon to be log skidder. Deciding whether to put rubber fenders on all round or leave it as it is. When all mods have been made i will tear it down for paint. Can anyone recommend a reliable 12volt winch for the front.

I am submitting a question in video form! thanks, Scot

I have cheated before by drilling a hole right in the clip groove through the spindle and used a cotter pin, some spindles are factory like that also.

Here are a few of my 1963 WH's Model # 603 Special's. One of my favorite Models, they are all usually different from each other one way or another!

Here is my late production 1959 WH Model # RJ59. It has the 1960 seat on it, that is why I think it is late in the 1959 Model year of production. I got this from a guy who had it as a lawn ornament! He kept the gaurds and mower deck in the barn though, good idea.

Here's another one owner machine. I got this from the original owner, an old man.

Just lucky Russ For some reason I'm not able to upload the owners manual I scanned so when I get back next week I'll make a copy and put it in the mail. That snow last week was a doozie. I used my Polaris Ranger to push all that heavy wet stuff out of the way. Heading up tomorrow am to play in the snow. :happy-jumpeveryone:

Your killin me! If I put duals and a stack on his, he will never stop about how much cooler his tractor is than mine. :banghead:

Well its been a while since i had a round hood. This little gem showed up on Craigs list and i could not pass it up. The gentlemen i got it from lost interest in it when he picked up a suburban that he is restoring. It came with the mower deck that still needs paint. I also got the manual with it as well.

How about a little MM Wheelhorse GT14?

Here are some pics. Needs work but the price was right!

While this has nothing to do with the Christmas Holiday or our 's, it's comforting knowing the United States Marines are watching out for all; overseas and at home. He "slipped and fell" off the curb. Did it snow in Georgia? 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - I love the Marine Corps! Thanks guys!

Ian ,Have you ever thought of maybe making a canopy for the tractor , like the one in the dozer pic above, i could also incorprate a roll cage

Me on my 867 plowing about 6" of snow 12-26-12

These are from last year but the snow fall is the same. Lots of it. I know this smile is not as big as Pork Chops but I'm not as young as he is. I hope when he's my age he'll still have that smile when he's on his tractor.

Only 6" of snow but enough to play.

Looks really clean. Nice score! Now just throw a big ole' Diesel in it and you'll be good to go!

That is a sign the clutch is slipping, if you have done it to much, you can burn the face of the clutch disk, and it will slip a lot faster than normal, and if slipped enough it will ruin the PTO bell, and it can over heat the PTO bell and cook the grease out of it, on to the clutch disk, in turn making it slip more, this Old timer would take the PTO apart and check things out, probably buy a new grease seal for the back of the PTO bell, they are cheap, last one I bought was under $5, new clutch disk are about $65, to start check the face of the PTO bell for hot spots, I've flat filed the face back true, but it is hard so it takes time, be sure to pack the center bearing with a rag if you try to clean the face up, then clean the old grease out, then after cleaning the bearing in the PTO and installing a new seal put a very small amount of grease on the bearing, just enough to lightly cover the rollers, set that aside and remove the clutch disk, if it has any material left on it, new the lining is about 1/8" think or just under, not counting the metal plate, I sand the disk face on a flat surface with 100 grit paper to remove the glazed face, and high spots, then drop down to a finer paper to finish it up, if it has gotten grease on it from a being hot or a bad seal, you can try brake cleaner to remove the grease, some have used a propane torch to try to burn the grease out, if you don't get it all out it will come back to the suface when it gets hot, reinstall all the parts and adjust the trunion on the rod to engauge the PTO so it snaps over when you push the lever.

A picture I found from when I had just finished the 401. Shining in the sun staring at the farm LOL ~Jake

just got a reply "I have no issue with paypal for one thing n whoever got back to me first was getting the item. there is race. If i had a dollar for everytime someone said they wanted to buy something id be rich. but anyways its now sold but thanks for your inquiry. Have a great day!" don't get it -does take paypal but would only take check for this--add the fees, it would have been another 5 bucks or something price was never discussed neither were fees i simply said i would take it do you take paypal paypal protects both parties and is the best way to "win a race" who ever got back was getting it first?? with a reply or the money. if he got two checks the same day, who gets the part???? best choice was walking away

Here is another idea. This is the muffler setup I put on a Charger 12 I restored a few yrs. ago. I never smelled when I got off this tractor. The muffler was off a Cub Cadet 122. I agree with Kelly, a stack setup can look good if done right, most times they aren't though.

Hi,John. I have a LawnRanger too.It's a 1967 L 157 tecky 6 hp.It has a snow plow,and a mower deck. I am looking forward to seing you post on here againas we are the same age. Have fun with your tractor. Kyle...

. Ya I agree it's the first time I've worked the old girl in some snow

:WRS: That's a nice little 'Ranger you have. My 9yr old son recieved one for Christmas also! He will probably stop by later and say hi.

The Squaw went out this afternoon and ran the 416H.We got about 5 to 6 inches of snow in Stillwater,NY.That 2 stage blower really throws snoe.The Onan twin really drinks gas.She ran out before the yard was done.Started out with a full tank.I tried posting some pics,but they must be too big.

Hi, John's mum here, just wanted to say a big thank you for your help so far, John has been so excited to get replies, and we are relieved as we didn't have much of a clue where to look. We think it has a Kolher engine in it. I will try and upload the photos, if it fails I will take the kind gentleman up on his offer of help (thanks for that). All three of us would be grateful for any help or pointers you can give us to help with this. He is hoping to take it to local steam rallies in the summer. http:// [url="http://"]http://

3 months ago this tractor had 4 flat tires and did not run. Was winched onto my trailer. It was sad. Engine overhauled too. Snow blower is a vertical shaft unit. I made it hook up identical to original horizontal shaft style. Made the lift flag also. It turns out to be a winner hands down in my book ,especially with hyd lift. C160 Automatic

This is the biggest snow fall here in two years. I started out with the blade but now I think it's time for the blower.

I agree with you Don, it would take too much "Wheel horsey-ness" away from the rear end, and just make it so much harder for me to climb on and off.. An interesting thought on the 2 piece seat's.... HHmm... I'd best have a looks for some pictures of.. I did have that thought.. I manage to bash my elbows enough as it is Or can holders I have a 12 volt fridge for that.. Just need to run a couple of wires to the trailer No progress report this time I'm afraid chap and chapesses as it's been a good few days since I have been out to the shack, but a couple of delivery's have turned up... A rather large sheet of 1.5mm steel for making the fenders and other bits.. And at the other end of the size scale, these four 8 tooth sprockets have arrived.. They will be much better chain tensioners. The plan (I think) is to bore the sprockets out a bit each side to fit bearings and then mount them the same way the old tensioners are/were.

Well heres a couple links to vids I posted...anyone who says these D series machines cant push snow is way wrong. I have no weight other than my butt and the factory weights on the back. 2 psi of air in the back tires and 25 in the fronts. I have few issues with traction, even on the private road in front of the house which I plow in its entirety. I dont know how it would act with 24 inches but it handled 7 of heavy wet snow without an issue....other than the carb/fuel pump and thats got nothing to do with anything other than a very tired engine that needs some serious TLC....

Used the wife's Toro Powershovel last night for the first time, was actually...a pretty impressive performer. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SY0Nc6IRfHg&list=UUd_ptV1TUpPlW1VhCjxez_Q&index=1

Fellas and gals, between P'Chop, ted the tractor across the pond, and a number of other young un's we're hearing about, I think our hobby is passing into good hands! Thanks to all the parents and mentors who support and encourage these new members! Duff :thumbs:

:WRS: Glad to have you aboard. The best way to try to identify your tractor is with some pictures. If you and your mom can get some posted, that will help. Many of the model numbers of Wheel Horse's made in Europe are not the same as the ones made in the US. 1-1641 does not show on my list either. As far as groups, this is the only one you will need. With over 6000 members, I'm sure you will find anything you need.

You dont use weights or chains? My tractors wont push a thing without weights. Mike........ I have both weights and chains (o standby), haven't installed yet: cause I run my B-80 every weekend to pull my grand-daughter around in a cart. She loves it! But the driveway and lawn are not likin' to be torn up until it freezes.

Rolling, Plugging & Spiking are really three entirely different operations: Using a 2-300# Lawn Roller will level & flatten-out the lawn, smashing clumps of dirt or small hills, works best with moist soil, best if driven slowly, some rollers also have small spikes on them, to do double-duty; A Plug Aerator removes 1/2" plugs of soil, about 2" deep, drops and lets them break-down on the soil surface, the hole lets water, air & fertilizer in, most of us use a pull-behind plugger, a commercial power-driven plugger does a much better job, but $$$. A Spike Aerator will slice a lot of small slits, thru the thatch into the soil 1-2-3" (weight & slow speed gets it deeper), lets the above in some, very easy to use, some of us will pull this for every 2nd or 3rd mowing, especially in the Spring and Fall. None of the above work on hard dry soil.

I have both a 522xi and a 523Dxi. Even though my diesel presently has injection pump problems, I'd still choose it over the air cooled gas tractor. Fuel economy is better and the engine has more power than the 1hp difference would suggest. The biggest mower I have is a 52-inch and the diesel doesn't even know it's there. These daihatsu diesel engines are supposed to be quite reliable. I will say that at least in my part of the United States that finding a shop that specializes in them is difficult. They were used quite extensively here in the US in equipment other than Wheel Horses. Toro used them in some commercial mowers, simplicity used them in their Legacy XL tractor, Exmark used 'em, Cub Cadet...I've watched eBay for them and they do show up being parted out from time to time, but certainly not any more regularly than a Yanmar or Kubota. I say it over and over again and it looks like other guys agree too: The 5xi's were the best tractor to bear the Wheel Horse name. They are very comfortable to operate and are incredibly durable machines. It's a shame they didn't catch on. It's not obvious from photographs, but they are actually quite easy to work on. Sure, the engine is enclosed in sheetmetal but the hood opens wide and the side panels remove without tools. There is a removable access panel on the transmission "hump" and the air intake screens under the steering wheel and on each side remove quickly with a couple of Torx screws. The entire seat and fender assembly is quickly removable too in case you need to access something in the transmission or fuel tank. You can tell these things were designed with solid modeling software. The only frustrating issue I have encountered so far has been on my 522; I needed to access the ignition modules on the engine and that required removing the engine from the tractor. Not a big deal, but certainly not as easy of a job as it would be on a classic C160. You're in Sweden, so this may not apply to you. Implement/attachment availability isn't as great on the used market as for the older types of tractors. So if the seller of either machine has optionally available equipment that you may need in the future, you should consider that as part of your purchase too. I'd go with the diesel. But the gas tractor is a fine machine too. Buy 'em both. Steve

Whatever it is, it'll burn off, and stop shortly...probably just blowin' out it's birthday candle...happy to be reborn.

You only live once. YOLO

5 years ago today I was a newbie on RS member #85 does not seem that long ago in ways and others ways it seems longer, I'm glad I joined, it has been a good 5 years, and I'm sure many more to come.

I like plowing snow.

Well after the catastophe on the pretty Stainless Steel reuseable molds I made I couldnt get thye lead out without bucking the threads up. Trust me, 3 people tried to no avail. I then tried an Idea and used a cake mold the kind with the hasp on the side and bottom that falls out well so much for that I got more lead on the concrete than in the mold. So I then did what I shoulda done in the first place and that was buy a Cookie Tin which is about 9 1/2" The problem is with those is that they have a 1/4" to 3/8" recess on the bottom of them and that will buckel bad when filled with lead so what I did was flip the Tin over and fill the bottom with Hydraulic Cement and put it in my gas grill with 1 burner on low and cooked em up till they where curred about 3 hrs. I then put a square piece of metal about 16 ga on the bottom and flipped the tin over on a concrete block. I leveled the block with a shim and then was able to melt the lead and pour in the tin and let cool. That worked great and the lead was 9 1/2" around and 3" deep and turned out weighing in at 85 lbs. So on the wheels I have 170lbs and I figure off the back with the tank mount and fuel I have another 130 lbs for a total of 300 lbs. I then drilled the weights with a 9/16" Bit and after that was complete I primed and painted the weights and let dry. The stainless steel circular discs I had cut with a plazma cutter I sanded the edges and then sandblasted them so they would have a good profile for paint and then primed and painted them and let cure. The weights where I painted were dry so I mounted them with 1/2 X 4 1/2" zinc bolts with SS washers and SS Nylock nuts. I recieved my Decals from Terry and then applied them to the painted SS Discs and then went out and alligned them on the wheel and drilled the lead and used 1/4" X 4 1/2" SS Lag Bolts with 1/4"SS washers and then mounted them. I had mounted my chains on the wheels allready so Im getting pretty close on wrapping this project up. Oh and on those Vent holes on the cab corners I cut some vinyl fabric I had purchased from orginal cab co a couple years ago and used some High Tack adhesive the same stuff I used to glue the vinyl on the dash. I will see how it holds up and If it doesnt I will then sew it in place. I still have to work out getting some heat in the cab and I think a deflector to block off the area where the muff was might do that pretty good. Anyways here are some pics. Cheers ~Duke