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The recoil starter is the manual start the 701,702 and 633 are the exceptions to the rule of the early sixties round hoods models 400 ,550,401,551,502,552,753,653,603,854,704,604,654,754 all follow the rules for the three numbers

My father passed away on Oct 30th 2012 after a long battle with kidney and heart disease he was 81,dad was the first to collect the Wheel Horse tractors and passed it on to my wife and I and our two sons to this wonderful hobby.Dad and my mom really enjoyed driving around at the shows looking for treasures and sharing time with our friends and family. As you can see from the photo that they really enjoyed themselves,dad's tractor is now in my collection and will be at every show that we attend in memory of him,he will be truly missed...

I bought my first wheel horse 417a in very good condition. My second was a 211-4 not so much in good condition. My third was another 211-4 again not so much in good condition. My fourth and last to date was a c175 in fair condition. I am 63 years old and these wheel horse tractors are really my first major dealings with engines and tractor parts. I stripped one 211-4 down to the last bolt, cleaned and repainted. Rebuilt the carb and it is running as good as a new one. I am working on the hydraulics on the c175 right now and that is another new thing for me. I have four grand kids and each will get one tractor. I say all this to say that these tractors are great little treasures to share and they really keep you busy and educate yourself on how to's. RedSquare is the best teacher on the how to's and thanks to all who post here. And thanks to Vinylguy who just supplied me with the decals for a wh cart I came across and redid.

A few pics today

Don't think it was an option. I put lawn mower wheels on an old walk bee-hind snowthrower years ago to use on a gravel drive way. I put some wheels on my tall-shoot single last year. Never got any snow to try it out. It does make it easier to move around though!

Today only made what I said previously true! Here we were, working on this 57 year old tractor in a two car garage without a care in the world. All that mattered was getting this tractor ready and running. For a few hours I truly felt like I had stepped through a time warp! On I side note, we have mentioned it before but Steve and I had known each other only for one short little league baseball season back around 1980 when we both played for my Dad's companies little league baseball team. His Dad was our coach. After that year Steve and I never saw each other again even though we lived in the same town. Fast forward to about 4 or 5 years ago and we meet up again here on Red Square! Not only that, but after talking we discovered that our lives had nearly paralleled each others. Talk about coincidence! Any way, I actually found our team photo from that year. It's a little sun faded from hanging on the wall in my bedroom when I grew up and was across from a window that always had the sun shinning right in for most of the day. I'm sure you'll all get a laugh.

I didn't want to tell Steve that when I first turned the engine over with my hands by the starter pulley, it felt very different than mine. I was skeptical that it would start without major intervention. We got to the point where we were ready to fire it up. Wrapped the rope around and gave it a pull. At first it was very hard to pull. After a few times it seemed to get easier but were weren't even getting a cough out of it. Steve went to get a tractor as our arms were getting tired and I had already whipped myself across the face once. We figured we use the pto from ones of his others to turn over the engine with a v-belt. In the mean time I pulled the plug wire and checked for spark. There was none. Steve pulled the cover off the magneto and we cleaned and re-gapped the points. Put it back together and she fired off with very next pull of the rope. Man we were ecstatic! Let it run at a low idle for a while seeing as the engine hadn't been run in 3 years. It really sounds great. We had it up on jack stands in the rear and let it run for a few minutes in all 3 forward gears and reverse just to get everything moving inside with the fresh fluids. We shut it down and moved it back inside and back up on Jack stands. Removed the rear tires which came unbolted like a dream. Then took the old tires off the rims the old fashioned way with spoons and muscle. Low and behold when we had the tire and tube removed, we found some of the original paint in perfect condition on the inside of the rim. We dropped the rims and another set of tire and rims off at the local tire shop so they could swap them over. Steve will be getting these back at 9:00pm tonight and i'm sure he will have it out for a moonlight ride!!!

Heres the process of tearing down a hydro pump from a D. I will do my best to describe everything in detail so that anyone can handle it. I must say with Paul Frederis help we tore it down, cleaned and rebuilt it in 4 hours including tearing it down a second time because of MAJOR rust issues causing binding of the pistons. I will do this in chronological order as best as I can Step #1 Here is the pump before tear down. You need to remove the four 12 point bolts using a 3/8 12 point socket wrench in order to seperate the aluminum housing from the cast steel valve body STEP # 2 shows the bolts out and the pump housings seperated. Be ready to struggle slightly if your pump was never opened. It was necessary for us to put the aluminum part in a vice and hit the steel end with a dead blow hammer and brass punch to get it to sperate from the gasket/adhesive. You must rest the pump on its side or you will lose slippers and other items if you do it in the upright position. Upon opening it a large quantity of rust was found inside formed on the steel end suggesting water infiltration. Step #3 In this photo you can see the rusty liquid on the slippers and the general shape of them. They were scratched but the corners were square and not rounded over, which is very important Step #4In this pic Paul is trying to clean the rust off of the oil pump housing. As you can tell it was pretty rough. The 4 bolts here are 12 point also, you need to use a 5/16 12 point socket socket to remove these. this is another pic of the pump housing and the rust and bolts. Also pay attention to the orientation of the small pin location on the oil pump housing. Its on the botton of the pic and must be that way for reassembly. It is very important for reassembly that this faces the same way. Step #5 Here is the oil pump gear in the housing. You must mark this on the housing and impeller before you take it apart. Every lobe only fits its mating surface 1 way. If you screw it up the pump will bind and not pump oil to feed the cylinder, slippers and swash plate. The o-rings are the same set up as the manifold with a square backer ring and a regular o-ring on top to seal. Step #6 In this step you need to remove the charge valves. They are 5/8 standard socket. It is an O.R.B.( O Ring Boss). These were pretty tight but did come loose. Here are some close ups of the charge valve. We made a legal notebook map so we could be sure it all went back together well. one side has a spring and a ball, the other side has a small tapered shaft and spring. Later models of this pump had balls and springs in both sides. One thing to note is that occasionally you will find shims between the spring and ORB fitting. These were installed when the pumps didnt make enough pressure during testing. The shim increased tension on the spring and therefore raises the oil pressure just like it would in an oil pump for an engine. Step #7Next pics are a close up of the housing showing the accelerator valve removed. There are 2 of these. 1 on each side. They are the large straight head screwdriver tip recessed into the block. They are ORB also but damn were they tight. We needed to use an impact driver to break them loose. All thats inside is a ball and spring. Step #7Next pic is of the push valve. Remove it and check to be sure there are no gouges in the tapered area. If there are, oil will leak by and cause speed to slow and pump to overheat eventually during use. Step #8This is the inside of the aluminum housing. It shows the direction control where the swash plate sits. The can be removed if needed by removing the spring clip on the shaft where it comes through the outside of the housing on the flush side, not the long side that the direction linkage attaches. You then pull the shaft out and the swash plate resting surface will clunk into the bottom of the housing for you to pull out. The only reason to do this would be to replace a bad bearing. Step #9 Here is a close up of the swash plate during polishing. I started with 800 grit, moved to 1200 and then to the crocus cloth as the final step. DO NOT use water to lubricate the crocus cloth. it causes the adhesive to melt and the cloth to become junk. Use oil only for lube. This is a before of the swash plate showing severe rusting from the water that was inside this pump. this is after the three step polishing sequence. As you can see its a mirror now Step #10Here is the brass direction control valve plate showing scratches and oxidation. This also goes throught the 3 step process of polishing. This is the same peice after polishing Step #11 is the polishing of the slippers themselves. We made a diagram so that we could install them back in the bores they came from. After all that work we ended up with my original cylinder too rusty to be used. The slippers bound up and we had to take the pump all apart again and use a different cylinder after we got it all back together and it wouldnt budge. Step #12 is the installation of the slippers back into the cylinder. Be sure to install the slipper retainer BEFORE you install the slippers. They wont fit if you dont. Step #13 is the installation of the swash plate back into the direction control section. This pic shows it cleaned This pic is right before installation of the cylinder and slippers. Use lots of oil on both sides of the swash plate so theres no galling on start up. It will suck to do all this work and wipe it out with a dry start. Step #13 Assemble with the unit on its side. If you dont, you will lose slippers from the cylinder bore as you slide it down over the shaft and then have to start over. Once the cylinder is installed on the shaft, then flip the housing to the vertical position. Step #14 is to reinstall the charge valves, accelerator valves, springs and shims where they came from. A little grease on the springs wont hurt. It will stop them from moving and going caddywhompus when you install them in the bore above the ball at the bottom Step #15 Shows the proper orientation of the oil pump impeller in the housing. Take notice to our marks to be sure we had it right. You then reinstall the pump assembly onto the housing using the four 5/16 12 point cap screws you removed at disassembly. Again be sure the pin is at the bottom when assembling. Step #16 shows the new gasket prior to assembling both halves . I made this one the same way as the motor housing in my original resto post. Using a hammer to cut the material. Step #17 its all back together and ready to go back in my 18 Auto.

I was told about a craigslist ad in Boston from a friend about 3 days ago. Like many emailed the seller and asked that he give me a call as I was very interested. So yesterday I recieved a call from the seller he started off by saying that he was "taking bids" At this point the price was $900 over his asking price. I did not want to get into that type of bidding... I told him that I would match that offer and could be there first thing the next day. He informed me that he had to make 1 last call and then he would get back to me. I said fine, let me know. A little while later he called me back and said the tractor was mine if I wanted it. Well that part was done but the next step was talking to momma about the purchase. Well let me say it was momma's birthday yesterday. After telling her about the tractor I wanted to purchase for the most I have spend on any single tractor she was very understanding and gave me the green light to buy it. I called the seller back, got the information on where I was going and set up a time for the morning. After that, I told momma the if was not her birthday I would be in my truck right now driving up to get it. Well being close to 5pm already and having to make a stop at the place where money grows on trees (bank) I was not sure if I could do it anyhow. Well momma said if you want to go she was good with that. After a quick happy birthday song and eating some cake, I found myself on the way to get it. I got to the seller's place about 8:30pm chatted for a while (he was a really nice guy), loaded up the tractor and started to head back. The story is that his father bought it from the original owner back in 1960. It has been in the family every since. Last night it was dark and the tractor had frost on it from the cold. Rear tires are shot and the fuel sediment bowl needs a gasket. PO said the last time he ran it was 3 years ago. Overall it is a pretty nice original survior. Upon further inspection today I see the hood looks like it was repainted with a red primer at some point in the past. It is sitting in in the garage and I am lubing up all the moving parts. The plans are to take the rear tires I have on the Economy and put them on the SR. Hopefully I can get the rear rims off. It will take lots of atf/acetone and heat to get them off I am sure. I will then get her running, cleaned up and change all the fluids. I have NO plans to restore this machine and NO plans of selling it in the future. Hopefully she is a solid runner and I can get it to as many shows including the 2013 PA show in June. I think tractors like this one needs to be viewed by as many of use collectors as possible. There is a lot of history and being so original it may help the next collector with a restore. etc. Here are the pics. I will post pictures of my progress as I start to work on it.

I bought my first round hood I think its a 753 with sickle bar a front wheihgt orginal wheel horse and an plow here are pics in two weeks he will in my possession

Last night I went to see my 75 year old neighbor whom I knew had a nice push blade for a Wheel Horse. I was hoping he would sell it to me because i was pretty sure he had no need for it, and I could put it to some good use. While we were sitting by the fire talking about Good Moonshine and Bad Women, he happened to mention to me he thought he had a Wheel Horse sitting in the barn, and instructed me to go look and see if it was still there. So with Maglight in hand I walked out to the barn in a light drizzling rain. I entered the barn and lo and behold sure enough there in all its dusty glory sat a 1980's model Wheel Horse, and that in itself was good. But upon close inspection I discovered it was not just any old Wheel Horse, it was one just like I have been searching for over the past two years. The Wheel Horse right n front of me, and only one mile from my house was a Kohler K-341 powered 416-8! After a few minutes I was able to regain my composure, I studied this newly found treasure, and decided right then and there I needed to give it a new home. I then left and went to my place and tried to get some sleep without thinking non-stop about what I had just found. Today during my lunch minute I went to see my friend and with the blessing of his son (who is also a dear friend) we struck a deal on the 416, the push blade, and a 42" SD mowing deck. I brought the blade and deck home tonight. The 416 is still under roof waiting for me to pick it up this Saturday. Here is a pic off the blade and deck, and a sneak preview of the 416. I need you guys to tell me what year model you think this is. Any and all feedack is appreciated. Thank you. Van

That I lived in the northeast!!! Every now and again I like to look at the Craig's List adds in the northeast. I would HATE to guess how many tractors I would have if I lived there!!!!!!!!! Just tonight I found oh.......about 3 dozen that I would buy! You guys that live up there sure are LUCKY :party:

It occurred to me this morning that I rarely post a question to the forum about my tractors. While I have been blessed with enough knowledge and mechanical ability to keep mine going pretty well, there is one major problem with this. They never break down. (Knocking on wood as I type this) Oh sure, I have to clean the carb and change a plug and clean or change points now and then, but the only time I really wrench on one is if I'm dismantling it for cleaning and a refresh paint job. So I revel in all the threads about you guys fixing this and that, rebuilding transmissions and engines and such. I have rebuilt one transmission and have been into two others to check them out. I do have a C-85 with a transplanted OH140 Techy that smokes a bit but runs great and does the snow plowing here now. More power than the old B-60 that used to do that job. That leaves me with a k181 which smoked so bad my neighbor thought my garage was on fire one day and came over to see if I was ok. I now have that engine on the bench and torn down. I need to mic the bore to see if it needs bored, which my boss has the capability of ding at his own shop. he said bring it over some Saturday and we'll do it. He's never done one before, but the guy is a CNC wizard. So at some point I hope to get further into this and actually complete an engine. There's no rush other than me running out of gas or time and health because all my tractors are functioning fine. The rebuilt engine would then be ready to change out to do another one if needed. So I guess the question is, have you been fortunate as I have with your Horses? Tell your stories guys. :)

Congrats Craig on another milestone in your postings. I always enjoy your posts. They are both informative and funny. You are truly an asset to Redsquare and its members. Keep it up buddy!!!!!!

My first wheel horse was a 211-5 and I used it for lots of mowing. Then I wanted to blow snow so I got a snowblower for it. I had it all decked out with chains, weight, and lights but then I received a deal on a tractor from Mr. Duane. He had a 1984 gt1600 that needed a new home. I also picked up a single stage snowblower and small tractor can. The rest is history. I have since restored the tractor and replaced the old tired 16hp briggs with a diesel for one year and then later a nicely rebuilt kohler k301. I plan to her a b-80 next year and a plow so I can then make a killer plowing tractor. Anyway, overall I have not had any troubles with my tractor. I used it in my small commercial landscaping operation and I'm not the easiest on it, but she still keeps on a going. I think wheel horse are very rugged and simple in design and I'm honored to be able to own one.

I was just thinking............................... I have a 1990 Chevrolet Suburban I bought brand new. I brought my first Wheel Horse (312-8)home with it (on a trailer) in 1991. Today I brought my 416-8 home driving the same Suburban pulling the same trailer. Some things never change.

'68 Raider 12, original except paint and decals from the Vinylguy. A few patches welded on the 48" deck otherwise runs and works great. Surprised my '73 "No Name" 12 hp automatic with an electric PTO runs excellent but, don't know if the deck is original. Fine machine. Curious 'bout the deck, I have five, the deck on the '73 doesn't have grease fittings(?). My problem is patience. I seldom wait long enough for paint to dry before usin' the Stallions. I thinking of handcuffing myself to the well pipe, far from the herd after any painting. :-)

If this is the 5999 gasket there is a service bulletin on how to change it without removing the transmission. Search the manuals for 062 to see if it comes up. Garry

Fellas I'm not to hot on chinese stuff but I did buy a set of pipe taps at Harbor Frieght a couple years ago and they have paid for themselves more than once. To clean exhaust threads Etc. They seem to be very good and in a very nice wooden case. Jim in Texas

Rust and galvanic corrosion won't be an issue with the brass plug, but anti-seize can't hurt. I feel confident saying that the main reason these tapered plugs get stuck is over-tightening.

OK guys, update time: Picked up the 416 this morning. Brought it home and gave it a good bath, and then another bath, then a blow drying with the backpack blower. Then followed that up with a WD-40 bath and rubdown. I removed the seat for this due to the seat has some cracks, and I did not want to get the foam wet. Then it was time to grease everything that had a fitting so it would steer and roll easier when I pushed it from one place to another. Then it was pic taking time, and it looks pretty darn good eh? :)

John, I think this is what Steve and Jeff need to set their sights on next! Can you imagine how much "salad dressing" Steve would need to shine this one up ?? Mike............ If that semi is out there Steve will find it!

i bought my 308 new from our local dealer,it had a 42 side dis deck on it,i mow a couple of acres and over time it was too much for the 8hp magnum,so one dy she blew an auxilary port in the block,you know the type that says shes now a boat anchor,so i put a honda on her,blew that one up because the air filter was not on tight,then i ripped the rear end apart by letting the old girl freeze in the mud and ice,i thought id just let the clutch out and she would break free,or the belt would slip,guess what the belt doesnt slip and i destroyed the pinions and axle gears,then after a complete rear rebuild(new bearings,seals,and gasket )i repainted her,so shes had her share of wrenching,but i still have her and its allways been my go to tractor,it will do anything any time,so no regrets

I had a 90 210-H. I know a lawn tractor. I bought it new and it came with a blade and chains. I got an Allis/Simplicity blower for it after the Super storm of 93 and made it fit. I mowed blowed plowed and pull down small trees with it. It never broke. Besides belts I had to repair the steering drag link once and replace an alternator diode. That's it in 20 years. Sold it 2 yrs ago.. :scratchead:

My tractor with the most longevity for me is my original 1977 B-100. Owned it since 1993. Like you Jim, I have never had to do anything other than routine maintenance. So, that being the case, I am working as I type on the K161 for my 701. Here again, this engine looks as though it has rarely been used. Had the bore spec's and it just needed a honing to break the glaze, and I am putting in new rings right now. My biggest dilemma at the moment is, do I paint the block and then reassemble, or do I reassemble and then paint the block? :scratchead:

John, I think this is what Steve and Jeff need to set their sights on next! Can you imagine how much "salad dressing" Steve would need to shine this one up ?? Mike............

my choice no special order. 550 suburban( been in the family 30 plus years) 523 DXI (i sold but have little regreet) C160 hydro mowing and snow blower 1045 cuz lots of people want them(i have 2) charge12 cuz it has power steering and runs on LP

Easy enough to make some wheel weights. Picked up a pair for a friends tractor. Brake drums (sized to fit any wheel), carriage bolts, concrete. Does the trick. Add paint as required, I mean paint red.

My '88 414-8 has the Kohler Magnum engine. The '85 416-8 is powered with a Kohler K engine. The 416-8 is powered! I guess after all the 12 hp and less, Horses I've owned, 16 hp is a treat. 30-40 years ago I remember rope starting a couple of my Horses. I want to rationalize a bit, the 12 hp Kohlers actually do everything I want to do (or play). Blow snow, plow, sweep, mow, take Grandkids ridin', get me out of indoor chores with the Mrs. In fact, anyone know where I can get a 12" mower deck? I'll be right in Hon soon as I'm done mowing the lawn. :-)

60's front engine Round Hoods C-160 Auto 420 LSE C-195 953/1054's And in the bull pen, Any D with a Kohler!! 520H (As long as it comes with a free test light!)

Here is the type of recoil the 633 should have.

My 653, the five designates it's electric start.

Thanks to all had a good day today went to a auction this late afternoon there was a wheel horse raider 12 in very good condition I bid on it but stopped at $225 it went for $300 I need another horse like a hole in my head so Jo and I left and stopped and got chinese carry out on the way back home tonight Brian

So Steve, what I gathered from that last video is this, regardless whether on not it's the early or later trans... before you open one up, you must confirm that you have a pair?

55 RJ35 56 RJ35 57 RJ35 58 RJ58 59 RJ59 Ya... in that order too, LOL!

Jason, very nice websight. I enjoyed looking around and I'll add it to my favorites also. I really like the pic of the suburban and wagon, that's one for a calander. :thumbs:

The answer is 2 If I had unlimited funds and ample room I would be collecting cars and women.

Thanks guys. @Karl, thanks... I was wondering about the new picture format. I had that add-on gallery before, but didn't really like it because it linked outside and didn't keep my header and menu. I'm sure the was probably a way to embed it, but I never figured out how. @Terry, Yeah, the house looks a bit different there... Many of those pictures were taken at the last house. Got a bit more room at this place! Proud to have made it to the favorites list.... now I'll really have to try to keep updated! @the other guys.... thanks for the comments. Stop back soon. I'm planning to do a similar layout with photos for my attachments. I think attachments are the next hot collectible. Almost every tractor ever sold had a mower deck or a blade, I think it's the obscure and hard to find attachments that are interesting.

Good input, I did not think to check the Demystification manual. If anyone has the over temperature switch on their tractor they may want to take it off and verify that it closes at 320-340. I will have to retest the switch I have. Maybe I need to bring the temperature up slower. Mine did reopen at about the right point at 270 degrees.

Which pump? The impulse pump I believe is a Mikuni. The electric is a Purolator. Here's some good info on fuel pumps. It starts about half way down: http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/carbfuel.htm