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Last night I went to see my 75 year old neighbor whom I knew had a nice push blade for a Wheel Horse. I was hoping he would sell it to me because i was pretty sure he had no need for it, and I could put it to some good use. While we were sitting by the fire talking about Good Moonshine and Bad Women, he happened to mention to me he thought he had a Wheel Horse sitting in the barn, and instructed me to go look and see if it was still there. So with Maglight in hand I walked out to the barn in a light drizzling rain. I entered the barn and lo and behold sure enough there in all its dusty glory sat a 1980's model Wheel Horse, and that in itself was good. But upon close inspection I discovered it was not just any old Wheel Horse, it was one just like I have been searching for over the past two years. The Wheel Horse right n front of me, and only one mile from my house was a Kohler K-341 powered 416-8! After a few minutes I was able to regain my composure, I studied this newly found treasure, and decided right then and there I needed to give it a new home. I then left and went to my place and tried to get some sleep without thinking non-stop about what I had just found. Today during my lunch minute I went to see my friend and with the blessing of his son (who is also a dear friend) we struck a deal on the 416, the push blade, and a 42" SD mowing deck. I brought the blade and deck home tonight. The 416 is still under roof waiting for me to pick it up this Saturday. Here is a pic off the blade and deck, and a sneak preview of the 416. I need you guys to tell me what year model you think this is. Any and all feedack is appreciated. Thank you. Van

Was given this by our local dealer It was a promo item when Toro bought WH. At least thats what I was told. It has a place to put the dealers name on the bed cover. Both doors open along with the hood The underside just says limited edition Anyone else run across one of these, I haven't seen another

That's the maddest/baddest looking Wh ever.. It's kind of a mix of Mad Max and Death race 2000.. Me likey a lot :handgestures-thumbup: Just don't paint it, it looks right as it is.

I will do a series of updates on the progress I have in restoring an old Ross Steering Gear Column for a 953 Wheel Horse restore project. Our tractor is Serial No: 62-560. My brother David and I were given a 1963 Wheel Horse 953 which we have begun to rebuild and restore. David took it all apart and I told him I would tackle the Ross Steering Gear rebuild. We do not have the original 953 steering wheel but most other original parts are there. Her are some photos of what we are starting with before all the parts were taken off the tractor: I ordered repalcement parts for the Ross steerign gear off of Ebay. I bought the kit before taking the steerign gear apart but the worm gear on this steering column appaears ok. Probably a good idea to take one all apart before ordering the replacement parts as they are expensive but also hard to get new. The first challenge was the end cap. The kit sold on Ebay is from Guy Louderback and he sells rebuilt Ross steering gears in additon to the replacement parts. These steering columns were used not only on the early model 953's but also on Cub Cadets, John Deeres, Case, Jacobson and Ford early model lawn tractors. So parts apper to come from several sources and there are slight variations in the Ross steering gears between models. Guy send you instructions from Brian Miller's rebuilds, John Deere and Cub Cadet with some of his own informaiton too. The original 1963 Wheel Horse 953 owner's manual also has two pages on informaiton on the Ross Steering Gear. Here are some photos: The worm gear box part of the Ross steering column Lever arm with taper stud still in it. Looking into the worm gear Lever arm, seal and seal retainer and jam nuts removed My end cap DID NOT have a cotter key pin through the end cap like some models do. Note that some end caps are made different with more of a star pattern on the cap. The cap has a straight slot in it and it was difficult to loosen up. I used a screw driver and then a chisel and could not get any movement to unscrew the cap. Finally I came upon the idea of using a 7/8 wood drill bit that fit snuggly in the cap raceway and I could get enough leverage on it to slowly turn the cap and unscrew it. Here are the remains of the bearings and ball cup just inside the end cap Now for a bigger issue The remains of the original 953 Wheel Horse steering hub is still on the steering wheel end of the Ross steering column. I began using my trustly PB Blaster on it this am and will continue to apply PB Blaster and check for progress on removal of the old hub.

I thought every Bears shirt in existence caught fire in '06?

It's a 308-8, smokes a little when you start it but clears up very quickly. Only used on the tiller for the last ten years.

Jack, here is a first draft of the LCD readout for the Onan head temp monitor. I couldn't resist grabbing a few 16 character x 2 line displays with the selector switches (under the display). These 6 push button switches can be programmed to display any information you choose or toggle between different screens of info. I chose to default to a display of front / rear head differential temperature ( the 21 you see on the display). The display would indicate a 21 degree F difference between the head sensors and the ® indicates the ®ear head is 21 degrees hotter than the front head. If the front head where hotter, the ® will change to (F) for front. Pressing the "left" selector button will change the display to read both current and maximum temperatures of the REAR cylinder head. 296 is the current head temp and 378 is the maximum temp seen on the rear head since the tractor was started. Pressing the "down" button displays the lowest temperature seen on either head since the tractor was started. In this case, the (F)ront head temp was 75 degrees when the tractor was started and the (F)ront head temp was lower than the ®ear head temp at the time the recording started. When the "up" button is pressed, the maximum temp recorded on either head will be displayed. In this case the max temp was 346 degrees F on the ®ear head. Pressing the "right" push button displays the current and maximum temperature seen on the front head. Current temp is 275. and the maximum seen on the front head was 347 F. I still have to play with the text formatting as I find the use of the "F" in "Cyl Head Temp F" to be a little confusing when ® and (F) designators are used to display front and rear temps. So I'll play with it a little while I wait for the 4 line displays to be delivered. Since we have 6 push buttons on the screen, menus can be created to allow complete customization of the readouts (select F or C for temp display, etc). Any suggestions for display formats are welcome.

This was forwarded to me in an email today FWIW thought I would share. For those of you who actually try to repair some older and rusted equipment, the following just might help you out. Worth the short read. Penetrating Oils Machinist’s Workshop Mag™ recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a “scientifically rusted†environment. Penetrating Oils ........... Average torque load to loosen* No Oil used .................... 516 pounds WD-40 ....................... ... 238 pounds PB Blaster ..................... 214 pounds Liquid Wrench .................127 pounds Kano Kroil ...................... 106 pounds ATF & Acetone Mix............53 pounds The ATF-Acetone mix is a “home brew†mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this “home brew†released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that “Liquid Wrench†is almost as good as “Kroil†for about 20% of the price. Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF & Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix.

Well i have got an idea so i just had to test it out to see if it works.. I have installed an electric winch on my raider 10 to lift the snowblade/blower/deck and also the rear hitch.. i have put it where the battery is on it so i have to put the battery under the seat on it:) Here are some pict of it so far.. and a small vid of how it lift.. Thanks Lars

I HAVE AN OPPORTUNITY TO BUY A WHEEL HORSE 18 AUTO WITH MOWING DECK IN RUNNING CONDITION, WITH WORKING HYDRO. OWNER HAS HAD THE ENGINE REBUILT BY LOCAL TORO/WHEEL HORSE DEALER. PAINT IS ORIGINAL BUT REALLY WEATHERED FROM SITTING OUTSIDE. HE IS OFFERING IT TO ME FOR $200.00 I DON'T REALLY NEED IT OR KNOW VERY MUCH ABOUT THIS MODEL. DOES ANYONE THINK I AM LOOKING A GIFT "HORSE" IN THE MOUTH OR SHOULD I LET HIM KEEP IT? THANKS, MARK.

Well maybe instead of cutting I can just knock the grass down with this lowrider. Heres the first winter project out of the shop. I had a kt-17 thats been setting around and I couldn't ever see a good use for it being a grenade motor- until this idea popped up........ The whole tractor is built out of all left over parts that I have had around for years- no nice tractors were harmed in this build! Sorry I listed the pics in Reverse build......Just added some pics of the airfilter cover to the top of the pic list right side.

I guess I should introduce myself here. I am new to the forum. I am very impressed with how well put together this site is. Excellent job to the moderators and folks who run this site! I currently own a very nice C81 that I recently picked up and brought back to life, and will own a 633 project on Friday. I am not new to Wheel Horses. My dad owns a real nice 520-H with a 60" mowing deck and single stage snow thrower. Prior to the 520-H he had a C-160 Hydro..which I spent countless hours on mowing grass with a 48" deck. Rugged durable machines no doubt. I look forward to talking with you guys and discussing WH stuff.

thanks that helps alot

What...you haven't left the house yet?

I think its just magic..lol...kidding...I was pretty lucky. Just happened to find it before anyone else and I was the first guy there to check it out. It's really as nice as it looks too. Probably the best deal I have ever gotten on anything.

Here is my C81 I just bought. I don't like to brag, but I paid $100...it was out of gas and previous owner burned up the starter trying to start...runs like a champ now!

One mile away? Wait...I thought you said there weren't no 's in North Carolina.

I think the worse thing you could do to a Kohler is stick Tecumseh parts on it.....especially Teccy carb's!! Mike........

Movin right along......

Built one out of scrap steel parts. Did not put the bends on flag but still functions great. Thanks again!!!! Here are some pictures. Also did not put angle cut on flag.

This machine has set the bar pretty high for building rats out of spare parts. I would have to agree to this!!!

That'll definitely knock down the resale value! How long did it take before you stopped swearing? Or have you?

Hold down the ctrl key and hit the + = key and it will zoom if using IE browser. Use the - key to go back or 0 to immediately return to your original setting This machine has set the bar pretty high for building rats out of spare parts.

The D200 with the original ARK550 Loader was and incredible combination. It had a wider front axle than all the other tractors. The steering spindles had flat surface roller bearings between them and the axle that made it feel as if the tractor had power steering. This tractor was so beefy that there was a backhoe available for it manufactured by Brantly. I have used a C series, 520, and the D all with loaders on them and I say the D wins hands down. Just my $.02

Not to go too far off-track, but if you use a Prius as a battery backup for your home, that will likely void the 8-100,000 warranty on the batteries. I'll bet that they ain't cheap to replace either.

That is pretty radical! That is THE RAT unleashed, love the creativity. I really wish I could enlarge the pics to get a better look see.... :scratchead:

Yeah, hopefully it has the option to articulate itself into my shed.

Well...when you consider a few of the risque places I've captured my 653 lettin' it all hang out... I'd say, this one's pretty dirty.

I use a hand held leaf blower after every use and blow off the clippings on the entire thing. Every spring (although I should do it in the fall) I remove the access plates and clean it out really good. The other thing is that cam plate on the hydro itself. It needs to be removed (yes removed) to get all the debris out of there and the linkage. I hadn't done that and after a while the debris built up enough to actually make it go in reverse very slowly. Removed the plate, cleaned it out and it's back to full reverse (and forward as well). My 414 has a SD deck on it and I get a lot of the clippings right onto the engine flywheel from the left corner of the deck. Why, I don't know but that doesn't happen with the RD which is good for the Onan.

The one Jason posted pics of is mine, it's kinda packed in the barn still on the tractor, but if needed I can try to get better pics, I never hooked the belt up, but it is belt to a jackshaft that in turn is speed reduced with the gears and chain, there is not room to have the large pulley like on the RJ models, some place I have a copy of a price chart from 1961 and it's on it for like $79 I think the model no was CBR-732 for the new then 701 tractor. I found the picture of the price sheet I have it is hard to read because it is a scan of a old sheet, then emailed to me, but it is a CBR-327 for the 700 series tractors, no price or more info on it, the CBR-32 listed above it was $79

I've tilled down the garden with all my leaves, and then put in 5-6 yards of "Double-cut mulch", it's the assorted left-over mulches from our local landscape suppliers, mixed old mulches chipped down to no more than 1/2" pieces. Cheap ($5/yd), looks almost like dirt, easy to spread, tilled in, most of it breaks down over Winter, residue is gone by mid-summer, adds organic. The soil is really alive over the winter, breaking down all the leaves, stems, etc., a mulch on and in keeps the soil warmer and working better. Suggestion: rather than removing small rocks from the garden, I take an anvil (RR rail piece) and maul, then smash those rocks into dust (in and all around the garden on my knees in the summer **). That product is called 'Rock Phosphate', it leaves all the good things in the soil. You can buy it by the small bag in Organic stores, for a lot of $$$, or just make it yourself. The reason most rocks are roundish is that the plant root hairs attach and dissolve the nutrients from the rocks, sharp edges make it easier for the roots. This is what the Romans introduced, and they did in Europe, before chemical fertilizers. Chemicals are faster, but Iim trying and be real organic. ** Great Stress reliever too. They say people who are in the dirt, the soil a lot, are healthier, less ill & resist germs better, "so dirt must be the reason I'm healthy", or so I tell my wife..

There are a couple people here who also have that version, but I've never seen a different manual for it. Here's a picture of one though... for those that don't know there is a different version.

I'm parting a GTV 18 Looks like the same body has a perfect grill and hood with the Sears badge on it Heres a flyer on an FF24

Really hoping that one makes it to the WHCC show in Arendtsville Pa this coming June.

I just added some pics of the final missing part- the airfilter cover painted by my daughter- I really like like it!!!!! Thanks to everyone for all the pos comments- glad you all like it- will be something different than 4x4's to take to the shows next season!

A thought occured to me tonight. We've all seen the awesome machines that actually roll out of Bobs garage. Just imagine all the crazy stuff he has going through his head that he hasnt built (yet).

WOW!!!! There goes 2 hours of my life I will never get back......Damn you YOUTUBE!!!! start looking at rototiller racing and end up at people wrecking exotic cars......how does this happen!!!!!....LOL

Well just maybe if Toro is done making parts and they no longer seem to want the Wheel Horse name, they may be willing to sell it.... And as long as I am dreaming we could all chip in some money and come up with enough cash to buy the rights and get all the prints and such. I think we have enough machiniests, engineers, and such around here we could re launch the brand just as parts for ourselves. Then again monkeys mighnt fly out off my A$$ and my long lost rich uncle will die and leave me all his money. Hey AGCO seems to own every big tractor brand other then JD and Kubota mabye we could get them to buy it. Nurse is it time for my medicine again?

50/50 blend of transmission fluid and acetone is even better. I can't believe how well that combo works. Give it a try.