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Bet the wife wont ask me to help decorate the tree again!!! But after it was all done she kinda likes it. I wanted to hang some parts on it too, but that was out of the question.

congrats steve,looks like posting is best for you now that we all know logging is not in your future. good luck buddy still waiting for some xmas wine.

Enough of this restoration stuff Duke. I WANT A VIDEO OF IT CHUCKIN SNOW COMPLETE WITH A YARD STICK TO SHOW SNOW DEPTH AND A 100' TAPE MEASURE TO SHOW DISTANCE! I have very little patience........... Mike...........

Then I have been blessed... 'cause the wife, and two Techys I have require minimal maintenance, and are faithful to the end.

My father passed away on Oct 30th 2012 after a long battle with kidney and heart disease he was 81,dad was the first to collect the Wheel Horse tractors and passed it on to my wife and I and our two sons to this wonderful hobby.Dad and my mom really enjoyed driving around at the shows looking for treasures and sharing time with our friends and family. As you can see from the photo that they really enjoyed themselves,dad's tractor is now in my collection and will be at every show that we attend in memory of him,he will be truly missed...

I posted an add in the classifieds looking for a smaller 'horse for my 9 yr old son for Christmas a few weeks ago and Fun Engineer answered the call with a 1967 Lawn Ranger. We set a time and agreed to meet at his place. So this morning I picked up my buddy Sam and headed north with my smoker trailer as the utility and my ramps are in the UP hunting.. Ten miles out we were in white out conditions on icey roads, only 50 miles to go. Engaged 4 wheel drive in Kalkaska and never topped 40mph the rest of the way. For those contemplating "borrowing" Dave's tractors while he's gone (a nice set by the way), good luck finding them. You were right Dave, gps is even screwy up there! The gps lost it's mind, but a phone call told us we were within a mile and he talked us in. What we found was a really nice guy with a 3 car man cave to die for! And this little guy with a deck and snow blade. We tried getting him started and bs'd for an hour, haggled for 30 seconds, then loaded him up. After strapping him down, we hit the road for home. The weather had warmed slightly and the roads were in better condition. About 4 miles north of Kalkaska, we found ourselves sideways. Completely sideways, both ways several times. My truck decided not to die an untimely death in the middle of nowhere and straightened itself out, although the trailer wanted to continue to play for a bit. Pulled over to check the trailer and contemplate hitting the dollar store for new undies and toilet paper! We made it back to South Boardman, put the Ranger in another buddies barn and beat feet back home with no other troubles. I sure hope my little guy loves this one as much as he loves mine! Will keep updating this as the seat cover needs to be installed, fender welded and the carb cleaned. I have a set of v-bar chains for his 4 wheeler that I might be able to modify to fit. All hopes are having it running so he can plow with daddy on Christmas. :greetings-clappingyellow:

make a small peice of chain that hooks to the plow lift bracket and then a hook to the frame,pull the plow up or leave it on the 2x4,chain it temporary,push her out side and release the chain,which can be done when the hydro lift pulls her up,the chain will slacken so you can remove it

went and visited ryan (rydogg) today and hauled home a 857 and a 657

Another update. Basically the tractor is now finished. I have a choke cable soaking in some derusting liquid. As soon as the cable is free again it will be installed. I took the 312 out for a little drive around the property this afternoon, and it ran just fine. Unfortunately the 42" deck I thought was good is not what I thought it was. I need another deck. PM me if you have one I can get locally. Here are todays pics for your viewing pleasure;

Not unless you're riding with Bond...James Bond...in a red AMC.

Oh, somewhere in this favored land the sun is shining bright; The band is playing somewhere, and somewhere hearts are light, And somewhere men are laughing, and somewhere children shout; But there is no joy in Mishawaka - The mighty Cavemen have struck out. Of course this is not entirely true. The Cavemen came up short- they lost 59-24. They stayed even with Cathedral until the 3rd quarter-but they just had too much speed. They had the best athletes Indianapolis had to offer, because as a Catholic school, they can rcrute all over the city. No excuses- our guys give thier all. Really made them remember the name Mishawaka Cavemen. Our quarter back- won the Esqew award for Mental Attitude. All of our young men are better men because of the great experience- This stuff is tough on this old Illini- but my heart is FULL for what this State Championship quest, and the game of Football, have given my grandson Trevor to build his character on. Thanks for pulling for us- Al Sorry about the font size-maybe Karl can fix it-Al http://s267.beta.pho...dal026.mp4.html

Santa knows thats the right place for the little Ranger to be :occasion-santa:

Congrats! on 4000 Steve, wow thats almost as many as you are so tell us what you do in your free time :teasing-blah: and how many (your my favorite) that would be Sally

I got my weights the on the cheap. Found a nasty looking but running Electro that had the rears bolted on. Came with a broken blower, semi ratty cab and a good deck. Trashed the blower ans sold the Elecrto , deck and cab for $50.00 more than I paid for the pile. Kept the weights. Saw an ad in Buffalo for a set of fronts all painted up for $60.00. Drove thru lake effect squalls to get those. Total investment; $10.00 about $40 in gas and about 6 hrs in time. :thumbs:

My new rear skins came in yesterday so my TORO dealer mounted em up (two old tires off the rims and two new ones on for $25, thought that was a good price). My plan is to not have to use chains for plowing so I went with an aggresive tread 23x10.5x12 tire mounted on wide 8.5" rims off a GT1848. Heres the pics I know you guys gotta have! I took plenty . Mike...........

Hi guys, I am near here and have really enjoyed looking over this forum for the past couple of weeks. I recently picked up a really nice C81 for a steal (all it needed was a starter and fuel). I picked it up as a project but as it turned out it was not much of a project. Now that I have that one all ready for work it has me looking for another one to tinker with over the winter. I have a chance to pick this 633 up. He says the motor turns over. It is about 50 miles from me and I am curious what you guys think its worth. I know it has a Kohler K141 and parts are kind of scarce for them. I figure if nothing else this tractor would be good trade barter for something newer. I know its a collectible and the hood, fenders, seat, steering wheel, fuel tank, dash, all look original and straight. What do you guys say? All replies are welcome.

Can't really see it from the picture but it's been cut and stretched poorly with a onan tossed on it. It looked so sad that i brought it home with me. ETA- numbers say it's a 68 raider

Today we got a chance to have a little fun with Coles new RAT and my ROD. It was the RAT vs the ROD today, Click on the link n enjoy.

So my seat on my 414-8 is pulling away from the metal back and I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on how to fix it... I was thinking clamping it back together with epoxy? Would this work? Other ideas?

Today I took the advice of many of our member's by purchasing the VHT Flameproof high temp paint in order to redo my muffler on my 414-8. Let me know what you think! Before... Steel wool to smooth out the rust spots. 1st light coat of VHT Last nice thick coat of VHT End result! (what do you think?) I'm hoping this lasts and does not blister too bad...we shall see in the spring!

After just recently purchasing the 414-8 on Friday, both of my Wheel Horses look pretty happy together! The 414-8 is a little dusty from doing the last mow of the season today...but it sure did an amazing job!

As long as you follow the procedure for curing you should be okay.

I think we are all waiting for that :eusa-whistle:

I bet you could get rooster to figure it out! :)

Silly question but this is my first year with the hydro lift equipped 520. As the Winter sets in and I have the 48 plow on the 520, most folks have advised to move the rig to the outside to cool down the snowblade and start up with the hydro disconnected, once warmed up and all the juices flowing, engage the hydro and go. how does everyone move their rig outside since the implements are left in the down position at rest. I can't start up inside the garage due to fumes and sleeping 'yard apes' above the garage. plus with the rubber tire chains on the 520 is a bit reluctant being pushed. perhaps a fabbed furniture dolley with casters that are not fixed, to rest the blade on? The Frau wasn't too thrilled when I suggested she can lift up on the snowblade as I pushed from behind (ah, behind the tractor that is). the snowthrower will be on the good old B-80 with wheel weights. :occasion-xmas:

for 100 id allready own it,oh and welcome to red square

Update.... that large white cloth like object you saw going flying by was a Towel... thats right, I surrender, give up, roll over, all of the above. I am out of my comfort zone screwing with the timing/coil on a Tecumseh. Some may think that makes me a coward... thats fine too. Between all of the headache pills, coffee, time and parts I am done.... It has been dropped off at a dealer friend and i will update with what he comes up with as the ultimate solution. Meanwhile I am going to go out and hug one of my Kohlers and salute one of my Briggs both of which never fail to start and get the job done. Tony

I tell the members here all the time how good LE stuff is and everyone is like Thats OK Steve. You and I will be out enjoying our Wheel Horses while everyone else is hammering new bearings in a dead horse :deadhorse:

Sorry for the loss of your Dad. You have great memories, and it's nice that you shared them with us. I hope to meet you at a show one day and see your Dad's tractor in person. Thanks for sharing. :)

The Bears again show that they have what it takes. Why do I think that??? because today the Vikings got their rear axels handed to them!!! DA BEARS is it!!

Oh that's just great, they screwed up and beat the Seelers. Oh wait, that's a good thing! :dance:

Awesome !!

The calendars that Mike gets printed are very professional...like the ones you would buy in a book store. Outstanding. :)

A Browns Win...A Bears Win...and a Packers Loss would be a great day. Let's Rock & Rye.

Here we go Brownies here we go!!!!!!! Goona beat ourselves again today!!!!!! Lets play a good half game today!!!!!!!!

That thing is Wicked!! Matt :flags-texas:

A bit of my past experience; and time is not on your side. Water and oil will not mix even under ideal conditions; therefore, a drain and refill will not suffice. The reason being is that the water will be "pushed" to the corners, crevices, or remain at the bottom, even with the most vigorous of aggitation. You'll recall that contaminated fuel will respond to an alcohol flush or a methanol additive; minimally,such is the case with oils and hydraulic fluids. Some seals (particulary hydraulic, do not tolerate methanol or more harse solvents like MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone); in those areas a kerosene rinse or WD-40 will rid most of the contamination (not all). WD-40 was created as a water dispersing agent #40, developed for use by the military, relative to tropical use where high humidity was a constant problem; contrary to popular belief, it is not a lubricant; though it is very helpful in displacing water. This is what I just did to my transaxle (I bought it salvage and it had water in it): fill with kerosene, rotate, or agitate; drain; repeat until clean; watch for particulate, if found, you have no certainty that the bearings are not loaded with grit and you should prepare for a disassembly, so as not to damage the bearings. If there is no particulate, follow the kerosene with a liberal rinse with WD-40 (the Kerosene does little about the water, but is a less expensive first step and removes the bulk of the thicker oil). If you have very little discoloration of the discharged material, you may assume that the majority of the contaminates are out and now need only worry about any remaining water in the bearings. Methanol or alcohol will "suspend or absorb" the water and allow it to be removed. (MEK works the best, although it is a vicious, and potentionally dangerous solvent and very aromatic; it will however blend everything together in solution, allowing for easy removal and dries quite well afterwards) (Your local air board or regulatory agency may not allow non-commercial purchase). Dry well with compressed air or blow with what ever you can rig for a moderate air volume passing through the case. (Be wary of rigging a shop vacuumn; the sparks of the motor could ignite any fumes). After drying, you may refill with the appropriate oil or lubricant. Your gasoline engines will repond in a similar fashion. You should "top lube " the engine by a minor application of WD-40 through the spark plug hole to satisfy the rings. The longer the water sits in the case the more certain the bearings will be damaged---a matter of a few days can ruin the works---I have seen bearings destroyed overnight. The fuel tanks are a bit easier; drain, flush with WD-40 (gets the water out of the seams as it was designed to do), rinse with Methanol or alcohol, dry, then refill. If a surface rust has formed and you are concerned with contamination, the major brands of citrus degreasers are mildly acidic; they will remove the surface rust if warmed to 125 to 140 degrees farenheit; soak until rust is removed, rinse and dry as per previous steps. DO NOT USE CITRUS CLEANERS IN ENGINES OR TRANSAXLES OR PUMPS----IT WILL DESTROY THE BEARINGS. Alcohol works well with your electrical connectors; staring ether will do in a pinch (Ethanol---Ethyl Alcohol); some of the (any Halogenated or Petroleum based) other solvents can attack the plastic, causing it to crack or become brittle. All your thread areas and joints (hubs) will appreciate some WD-40 and it will push the water out as designed. Clutch facings and brake bands can be salvaged with a Methanol bath and a thorough drying. I would suspect that the wheels may fill with water in the hollow where the bearing rests; although I'm not familiar with each type of wheel. WD-40 and a Methanol rinse would suffice there. Your solvent could be saved, allowed to settle, then poured off, so that any water remains on the bottom, then passed through several large coffee filters lined with news paper. It could then be reused for your primary wash solvent, minimizing your expense. I hope that this helps-----I am shocked and saddened to see your collection sitting in that water; you have my sincere sympathy----best of luck to you.

Mike, four teckys in four years?? what are you doing to them?? maybe fill them with oil first... :teasing-poke:

Congrats Steve!

It Rained nearly all day yesterday , started off quite light rain , then it started pouring down constantly. The water is now very close to coming in the house . At 5 am this morning i checked the water level & i checked again at 6.30 am and it had risen by 3 inches , now by my calculations if it continues to rise at that rate i would say that i by 8 / 9 oclock this morning i will be writing the next post with a snorkel & wet suit on . So if you dont here from me to day will someone call the coast guard.

SWEET!!!!!

Use a dial indicator on the PTO end of the crankshaft.

Thanks BOWTIE I will be sure to! I have definetly become an enthusiast =)

It had one owner who had it serviced at the same place that he bought since new. I believe it was garage kept and the fellow who owned before me was in his 80s and the reason he traded in was because "his neighbor just got a new tractor and he wanted one"...he traded this in for a new simplicity! This tractor has not been restored, I just cleaned it up with some WD-40 and Carnuba Wax =) The electric lift works great!

Thanks everyone!! I look forward to mowing for the last time this season with it sometime tomorrow or Sunday. Wheel-N-It thanks for the Lucas recommendation! I have used their products in the past and look forward to draining the transmission oil and putting in Lucas 90w.

Oska/ Neil, Sorry to hear that. I've been watching the situation on the News and I knew Neil resides along the banks of the Bridgewater Canal. Were the Tractors totally submerged or is there a 'Tide Line'. An Aircompressor will be handy for blowing out water from the Frame joints etc when you can. As for Engines/Electrics, follow the advice the guys have provides here. Wheel Hubs etc should be well greased and reject water ingress, but all will be worth inspecting at some stage. Hope You/they will all be ok.

I got 1/2 my team ready, stretched its legs a little pushing the burned leaves pile around some, then put on the doors and buttoned up the front... One more cutting in the front then the blower will be put on as the back up.

Thanks David. Better photos after much fighting with PB. Frame upside down. I'm working out the position of the holes for the swivel etc. on this one.

I didn't take pictures of the machined 1" spindle (sleeve) as it is the same picture as the web site at http://www.p.f.engin....com/photo.html . Just scroll down to the work ascribed to Doug H. I got the idea from Don1977's pictures I ran across on an earlier search. I cut the original 8.5" Northern spindle down to 4.75" in length for my application as I needed to ensure I kept enough room so the hub grease seal would not to hit the welded washer on the original splindle. My guess is that the length of WH spindles vary by model so you'd have to use your own judement on the proper sleeve length for your application. I carefully spot welded the end of the sleeve to the spindle so I could reverse it if I needed to. If I have an issue with the spot weld breaking, I'll cross drill the sleeves like Don1977did and weld them solid to the spindles. I thought about using 3/4" sealed ball bearings in the hubs like dbartlett1958 did instead of the tapered rollers that came with them, but I didn't want to spend more $$ for bearings and I would have had to weld up and refinish my original spindles where they appear to have gone years without grease. Finally, the steering. I used 8 x 3.75 rims - same as original. The new hub/tire assembly sits about a 1/4" wider per side giving me a 1/2" wider track. The turning radius might be slightly wider but nothing hits or rubs.

I have always filled through the dipstick, but it can be painfully slow. that cover most years. Often the rubber shifter boot cracks allowing water into the transaxle causing the milky fluid. Search around the forum for flushing trans's, a lot will recommend Kerosene (you can search for that too).