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Zach and I turned some wrenches again this afternoon. It is very hit and miss for us to get a chance to work on his tractor. He is getting pretty happy about getting close with it. We are going to completely tear down the entire motor and do a refresh and take care of any needed issues. Have a H-60 to put under the hood.........hopefully after going through everything and taking care of it, then it will last. Here is Zach on his tractor.............

Show 'em if you got 'em. :)

Thanks guys. Those are some pretty sweet little boats guys. The polished look is REALLY slick! I fooled around a bit more with it Friday, and the paint might end up coming off entirely with stripper. I was tentatively wanting to avoid the stripper since I was concerned it might migrate into a seam or behind a rivet head, but the more I think about it if it gets IN a crevice, it OUGHT to come OUT. But we'll see. I have a leftover can of methylene chloride at work that we need to dispose of anyway... In case anyone is interested, I shopped around a bit for Scotchbrite discs for a 5" sander and they seem to be in the $3+ range. EACH. This is, of course, hook and loop (velcro) type. Surprisingly, the German tool maker Festool offers their "Vlies" discs at a better deal. They sell e-x-p-e-n-s-i-v-e products, but they make really nice stuff with amazing dust collection ability. You could probably run a router and sander in your wife's living room and not leave a speck of dust on the coffee table. If you want to be amazed at their tool pricing, go to www.festoolusa.com Before you pass judgement on their pricing structure, keep in mind that you're reading a forum that concerns itself with collecting tractors were were priced in the upper crust when they were new. Since the boat has spent so much time in the water and has never been inside, there is a pretty fair coating of dull oxidation on the exposed aluminum. I don't need to clean it up, but probably will since I have it off the trailer and upside down already. Chuck, I saw your bassboat thread elsewhere, but forgot about it. I was assuming then that you were doing a glass boat with the metalflake. Didn't think about a tin boat with that finish. Lund leaves most of their boat bottoms unpainted, and I plan to leave this one that way. The freeboard on this boat was red, and since that's what the title says I'll probably use that as the replacement finish. I don't want to put a huge amount of time into it since the boat has a pretty fair share of dents and other "whoops" scars from renters in its past. Overdoing the paint job won't pay off. I had no intentions of repainting the interior, but most of the original anti-glare gray vinyl fleck was worn off the floor. I'm thinking if I find a cheap, light gray rubberized/rhino type of coating I might experiment a bit...iff it can be applied in a thin coat. I don't think I'll be adding a flat floor since I'd rather not add the weight. This boat isn't a classic by any means. It's simply a 1991 Lund S-16. A 16-footer with no floor, carpet, or extras. Just four bench seats across the hull. They are legendary for being tough suckers and are pretty much standard issue for fishing resorts in the northern states and Canada. There's probably millions of them just like this one out there. I added it to the fleet since our old Jon boat has a horrible recurring crack in the hull and my other boat has a bigger engine and keeps me off of some horsepower restricted lakes I really like to fish. The trailer and 25-hp Johnson from it are to be transferred over. And I have lots of wonderful memories of bouncing around the waves on fishing trips in one of these things sitting in a blue cloud of 2-stroke exhaust trolling... Huh, maybe it IS a classic. Thanks, Steve

We had to pick up my step daughter at her dad's this weekend in South Bend In. So of coarse we had to take a detour to the old Wheel Horse plant to see where my horses were born. Took a few picks with the phone..... enjoy

This probably should be under the engine forum but it may be of a more general interest so I will post it here. I like the twin cylinder ONANs and want to understand why some fail and in particular why the valve seats pop out or a rod breaks. Some say carbon build up and valves out of adjustment are two of the main causes. I have always suspected that the back cylinder on the ONANs in 400 and 500 series tractors run hotter because the are in a tight spot and failures may occur due to overheating of the back cylinder. Some have developed vented belt covers believing they will allow more air flow and keep the back cylinder cooler. Also the location of the oil filter blocks some air flow to the head on the back cylinder. I picked up an inexpensive two channel temperature display unit recommended by SOI and measured some temperatures on the twin ONAN in a 1991 416H with 705 hours. Surprisingly the back cylinder was running about 25 degrees cooler than the front cylinder. The front cylinder was averaging about 270 degrees Fahrenheit and the back cylinder was averaging about 245 degrees. The temperature of the crankcase close to where the engine is mounted to the frame was running about 160 degrees. The air temperature was around 55 degrees. The back cylinder was running consistently cooler by as much as 30 degrees. i even wondered if the back cylinder was firing and pulled the spark plug wire off the plug to verify that it was firing. Not sure what it all means but perhaps the difference in head temperatures suggest something is not optimum with one cylinder or the other and the engine needs some service. When the cylinders are not balanced and one has to work harder than the other a broken rod could be the result. When the compression readings for a two cylinder engine vary by more than 10 or 15 percent that usually means the engine needs service or an overhaul. Maybe when the temperature difference exceeds a certain value that means the same thing. I am going to assume that the temperature difference that i measured today is a warning sign and my engine needs something done before something gives. I just bought it and it probably has never been decarboned or had its valves adjusted. It is not a particularly easy job to pull those engines, remove the heads and service them but maybe that is what should be done to get the 3000 hours some say they are good for. Maybe measuring head operating temperature differences and cylinder compression test differences are ways to determine when that service is needed.

My neighbor wanted rid of hi 8'X 14" shed. My wife bought it on the cheap and said it's an early Christmas gift. See was tired of looking at my "yard ornaments" plus the other neighbor's pool is within sight of our back porch and when those 2 whales are in it it's not a pretty sight! On to the pics: Shed planted in it's new spot Base framed up and ramp made: Tire shelf: Shelf for hitch parts hubcaps and wheel weights: Snowblower & plow blade: Dump cart and Brinly plow: Roller, dethatcher and chipper: Leaf sweeper and upper shelf for the wife's lawn stuff: overhead plow frame holder: Look who's sticking his head out of the barn:

i used to spend a lot of time up there at the blue chip horse farm. russ

I took some head temperature data on my 1883 C-175 with the Kohler KT17 Series I engine with 285 hours. The cylinder temperatures were much closer to each other compared to the ONAN P216 with 705 hours. Both cylinders of the KT17 were running about 345 degrees and the delta was only a few degrees. Here are some pictures: 1) The Kohler KT17 Series I with 285 hours: 2) The test set up with the $22 two channel temperature measuring unit from eBay. The delta was -1.8 degrees when the shot was taken while the engine was warming up: 3) Probe on front cylinder near the exhaust port: 4) Probe on back cylinder near exhaust port: The front and back cylinders were both running at 345 degrees. I hit the limit on file sizes so I can't post the pictures. 5) The delta was only a fee degrees and as little as 0.1 degrees. I am assuming that the 25 to 30 degree difference that I measured on the ONAN P216 with 705 hours is a warning sign of some kind until I can determine otherwise. Better to be safe than sorry. The measuring unit for only $22 seems like a worthwhile investment to me. I am also waiting for the $15 non contact laser tachometer to make sure my idle RPMs are all up where they should be.

I like the way you design Ian! I think you must operate with the motto "when in doubt, add more steel"! Love it! Matt :flags-texas:

Took this pic. Pulled off the deck to clean it. Put the deck back on and the threaded rod that connects the lift arm to the bell crank broke in half! :banghead:

The paint isn't nearly as good as the pictures look, just rattle cans and lots of blemishes. But, hey the bad spots are only in the places that really show!! Lol

Ha! yeah right. We will see who will be playin in INDY! How about those Hoosiers keepin it tight as I said before Im likin what Im seein! Nothing wrong with a high scorin game as long as your team scores all the points! When a team lets a team score that many points then it tells me their "D" is suspect. Jim I just couldn't contain myself any longer I fell off the WAGON! Here are the results for week 7. Congrats John on another John had a Perfect 5 pick week. Every one elese except Steve had 4 correct, And Steve had 3!

Years ago when I still lived in northern Indiana I was fortunate enough to get a tour of that building when they still built Wheelhorses there. As a Wheelhorse since 1960 it was quite a thrill. I also was walking the old Studebaker museum downtown. It was on business so I got to go where the public couldn't. On one of the upper floors I spied red objects covered with plastic sheeting. I inquired about it and was told they hoped to devote an area for a Wheelhorse display since Toro was moving out of town. There were factory fresh Wheelhorses dating way back including a diesel model that was sold only in Belgium. If only I would have had a camera!

I finally got around to my own project this summer, finishing up the 867 I got this spring and she’s now running and driving very nicely. I fully rebuilt the K181 that was seriously trashed by the lower end of its dipstick falling in to the crankcase, replaced tie rods and steering support, re-sealed transaxle, added new seat, re-enforced the fender sheet metal to support my weight without flexing, and removed many decades of petrified grease. I am going to put new needle and thrust bearings in the RM367 mower deck over the winter as I tried it out and it was a bit loud. Not a show queen but I didn’t intend it to become one. I just repaired it enough to continue doing what it has seemingly enjoyed doing for the past 45 years, being a reliable worker. -Mark-

Coming along nicely Roomie did some more painting. Tomorrow we have to finish sand and paint the hood, find a muffler dash and controls then final adjustments! Not sure about muffler, I have several but nothing that bolts up… That seat is very comfy!!!!

Steve, you had a 'feeling' ? Hitting the rock-n-rye again I see... -BK more like a rock in the eye :kbutt:

That fan shroud is actually a very necessary piece of equipment. My 1276 didnt have one on it when I got the tractor, and I never bothered to make one as I thought that with the fender down the fan was pretty much covered up. So one day I'm plowing snow, and I hit the snowbank hard enough to pop the rear mount of the plow out of its axle bracket. I reach underneath to hook it back in, and manage to stick the very end of my 3rd finger into those aluminum fan blades. Hurt like hell, sliced through my glove and bled for about 2 hours. I think my mother in New Zealand heard me swearing. That finger still hurts like hell when the weather gets cold, a good reminder to not stick my finger where its not wanted!

smoreau I will be updating the patriotic customs and improve the made in America graphics on the rear fender. Send me a pm with your mailing address so I can replace the rear decals when finished. AMCRULES I can and will make the hood and side decals longer than stock decals and redo the flags so they line up better. Thanks for you comments.

Me Too! A 45 - 0 Feelin! :banana-linedance: :banana-linedance: :banana-linedance: :banana-linedance: ...............................Happy Holloween Illinois!

Right chap's, let's get this thread up to date with today's fun and games. First on the hit list was to sort out the wrongly welded up drop link, so out came the hack saw for some careful slicing and I didn't want to use the grinder and risk cutting through the bar inside. A last check I had got it right this time before welding it up again. Time to get the top arms welded on, this long bit of box is the shortest bit of straight steel I have! Despite only using two clamps it was all held very firmly in place. A quick check it's square.. Not the best of photo's, but yep it's square on One top arm welded on.. And the second.. The lower arms are at their lowest height.. And up... I'm rather happy with how these have turned out. On a bit of a roll now, the rams were dug out and plumbed up... Ah...... the rams are a tad to far apart to fit quite where I wanted them to and the hit the lower arms!! As shortening hydraulic pipes is a it beyond my skills another way to make the rams fit had to be found.. As I can't go narrower, let's try up.. With a bit of box bunged under the ram.. The ram can sit where it want's too and there is enough space underneath for the lower arms to go fully up without hitting anything.. As an added bonus I noticed the tops of the rams sit in a very convenient place.. I didn't want to connect the rams directly to the top arms just in case somehow they get bent and bend the rams at the same time.... But I'm sure with some suitable bracing between the top arms they shouldn't move at all.. But that's a job for another day.

I think the vast majority do so for the power boost then complain that (insert engine brand name here) is garbage because it blew up after a season or two. Ignorance isn't always bliss...

Small air cooled engines used on power equipment should always use the governor if so equipped. They are mechanically designed for a top RPM, (usually between 3500-4000 RPM), and as you mention they will keep the engine speed steady under varying loads. Many people bypass engine governors for various reasons- the springs break and they are too cheap to replace them, they can't figure out how to adjust the governor linkages and don't want to read a manual, they think bypassing it will get them more power (it will, at the great expense of engine life), or they replace governor linkages or carbs with different parts and end up with a mess that can't adjust. There used to be this old dirty idiot who lived behind my parents house who had a pile of a governor-less Cub 108 he would attempt to mow with. He would start this thing up to a cloud of oil smoke, and it would wind up to about 6000 RPM. He would then fire up the mower to the nice sound of grinding spindle bearings and belt smoke. Every time he hit one patch of grass the engine would slow to just about a stall, backfire loudly through the exhaust, then he would stop and let it wind up again and keep repeating the process. It was annoying and amusing to watch all at the same time -Mark-

Well better get my picks in too..........going to get a little hectic around here. The boy is ungrounded and off the bread and water diet. Let's see how this week plays out. Can't get much worse! MICHIGAN AT PURDUE Michigan MICHIGAN ST. AT INDIANA Michigan St. NEBRASKA AT OHIO ST. Nebraska NORTHWESTERN AT PENN ST. Penn St. ILLINOIS AT WISCONSIN Wisconsin

So...how 'bout them Giants Joe?

Looks like some glasses Sir Elton would wear..... :)

I guess I am just an outside kind of guy. I do not even use a tent when I am ice fishing. Visibility is one of the main reasons, I live on a busy street, but the main reason is that I really like winter. One more reason...everyone loves a snow man.

I personally would use UHMW plastic or even Teflon if you can find it, They are both white in their raw form and will not leave "embarrassing streaks" :ychain: