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So after riding behind many a town tractor-mounted (rear PTO) leaf blower I got thinking that maybe such a setup would be helpful for those monster piles of leaves in the Fall. The backpack blower is king for control -- getting into the corners and small spaces -- but lacks in the grunt to move tall piles of leaves quickly. On the flipside, the walk-behind blowers are powerful but are a bear to handle on sloped hills. Here is what I came up with: It works great! Now I just need a cup holder. Thanks again to Scott for the heavy hitch! (love it!)

I know that Karl had posted that RedSquare raised $1800 to be sent to St. Baldrick's in Max's name, we helped raise that total by adding $1500 more to the cause for a grand total of $3300 that is heading off to make a huge difference. I want to congratulate all of you who chipped in to make a HUGE difference! Well the moment of truth........I am sure many of you have been waiting for this all day long. First ticket that was drawn was.........HENRYG The second ticket that was drawn..........limited 12 and the third and final ticket drawn..............neil Congratulations to all 3 of you. I am going to hand over the responsiblities of these to Karl Lyon and Tom Cornford to make sure that you are able to recieve a great collectible. Great job RedSquare...........you are all to be commended! I will post more later after a chance to get some much needed sleep! Thank you again everyone for making the trip and spending the day with our family. We are truly blessed with many great friends!

We were all graced with some real down to earth quality individuals. Members of the Pond family made the trip down and spent the day with us. I feel horrible that they were late to a niece's birthday party but so humbled by the fact that they decided to make the trip and be part of our raffle and show. What a fantastic family and a great legacy that Cecil left behind. I really appreciate the time that I was able to talk and hear some first hand history of the Pond family and the involvement of Wheel Horse. I can't thank them enough for taking the time to be with all of us. From left to right......... Johnathan (Cecil's grandson), Linda (Cecil's daughter), Gary (Cecil's son and father of Johnathan), Martha (Gary's wife) Last picture....I was very humbled to be asked by the family to take part in a photo along with them. Thank you!

A few months ago I rescued my buddy's WH for $200 that had been sitting in a barn for a few years. It has a newer HM80 that seems to run great. So this winter I'm doing a restore; so far I derusted the front wheels and added some try-ribs. Last week I sprayed the black engine pieces with some Valspar IH red.

Hey guys I am a newcomer to the forum here. I have a few questions about my 876 I am putting it together as just a garden tractor, when I got it it came without an engine which was no problem. I had a extra Kohler motor sitting around to go on it. My questions is that the motor had no pulley on it I would like to know the size of the drive pulley, or does it matter what size it is, I am worried about over running the pump or under running the rpm of the pump. I would also like to know if any one could give me some measurements of the hydro fan guard/screen size so I can make one. I know I could make one that would be close to the orginal and that would work. But I have one down fall so to speak I have a bad knack of wanting to make parts as close to oem as possible. If any one can help me out I would be so grateful. Thank You & God Bless

Well as some of you may know, a man named Ken came on to this site trying to find a home for this GT14. However I am in NJ, and the tractor was in Lexington Kentucky 12 hours away. But my Dad who trains race horses, was going to be down Lexington to race at the Red Mile. So I called my Dad and he said he would pick it up. And Ken said it was as good as mine if my Dad could get it. So at last 2-3 weeks later it arrived. She is going to need some work but I am sure I will not have a problem getting her going again! She needs a new muffler, as it is missing a chunk. It also needs to be rewired as the wiring is spliced together with tape and wire nuts. And the front drag arm or what ever its called that connects the tierod to the right front spindle somehow broke on the way herek She appears to have been well cared for, and has what looks to be a fairly new carburetor, but someone used rtv to connect the air filter pipe to the carb instead of a gasket. Also the white looking stuff that is on the tractor is wood shavings from the actual horse trailer it rode back on! -Charles

Karl, As you know, I am always willing to support RedSquare. I would like to see if we could get it more centrally located so the most members possible could attend. Just my .02 I guess I could look at the member map. See where the highest concentration and central location to allow for more participation. I love the idea!

I think I have the right steering arm, I have 2 parts GT14's I know I sold one right steering arm, I may have the return spring also, send me a PM.

This thread could overtake the Big Ten thread in another week. You could sum that game up with one word... Oh, and Steve, didn't you become a Cavs fan last season too? Hmm, maybe a little too much homemade... :)

Bringing this back to the top, here's what I came up with for my current project.

Sounds like you got yourself a new tramp stamp Rooster.

Here's a few from this year.

All of this led to 6 hours of polishing gears, a few new bearings and had to make a new gasket. Luckily the bearings that needed replaced I just happen to have in the garage. The lazy bearing store owners around here are close at midnight, on a Sunday?!?!

:WRS:

:WRS: . I applaud you for thinking about making your own fan guard but I bet someone here has the real deal (you did say you like the oem look). Try hitting up Kelly to see if he has one for sale, he's in the vendor section. He might have the correct pulley as well. Mike............

Whew... Rooster. I couldn't figure out whether it was your technology or mine that was in error here this morning. I think I need a cup of coffee.

It's been a very busy summer, my wife & I moved from Millersburg to Goshen, IN mid summer. We were without internet for a bit during the transition too, had to wait for things to get sorted with the provider. I still have misc Horse stuff at the old shop yet that I'm working on bringing over when I have time & make space. I ended up selling a few before the move since my new shop is much smaller, mostly Horse's that I wasn't useing anylonger or hadn't seen daylight in years packed away in my old garage. I dislike leaving stuff sit outside & didn't want to bring them here for them to sit behind the garage. I also started a new line of work with the company I've worked for, for 17 years now. No more asphalt, I am now doing HDD or Horizontal Directional Drilling. 15+ years was long enough on an asphalt roller! With the new job & new home....tractors were on the back burner this season while I took time to get things sorted. Scott's show yesterday really put the Wheel Horse/GT bug back in me. I was Jonesing for a new tractor or start wrenching on one again after leaving Scott's M&G yesterday. So today I spent the day working in my shop organising parts (found stuff I didn't know I had), hanging some man cave art, & working on my 6 speed 10HP short frame mutt. This is all the space I have for now, but the wife promises me a new shop as soon as our old place sells.

It was nice talking to you, I'm glad my C-160 went to a good home, I really didn't want to let that one go, but as you seen when you were here I have WAY to many tractors.

The one advantage of the 518, as compared to the 520, is that without all the bells and whistles the 518 is a lot simpler to deal with than the 520. 520's are notorious for niggly electrical problems and the simpler more basic tractor is easier to diagnose. For towing a cart around and mowing (assuming you dont want a 60" deck) I'd probably go for the better condition tractor - I'd take a nice 518 over a beat on 520. If you do need the 60" deck, then you have to go for the 520.

Duke, I'll look for something cheaper next time I use that blaster. Too much of it goes away to spend a lot of money on media.

Nice haul, but why can't you ride back inside the truck Jake...did you pick up some bad gas along the way?

:woohoo: :woohoo: Way to go What a great way to spend a saturday!!!!

Kelly has the right program, no child labor laws when their having fun. I put the wife or the neighbor on the Huskvarna hydro with the bagger and I man the compost pile with the C120/shredder and a pitchfork, double chopped oak leaves into tjhe pile with some septic tank bacteria and sprinkle with the hose to make it a fast acting compost pile for use in the spring.

Last week, I had appended to another member's thread concerning repairs to a round hood lower bracket. Now that I have repaired mine, I thought it best to start a new thread. This is what the bottom bracket looked like on my recently acquired 701. I removed the rivets, cleaned the metal, cut a new stiffening plate for the inside and reattached the bracket. I think that short of welding, this will provide for a much stronger attachment.

Stop, select the gear that you need and go. You shouldnt need to shift on the fly. It is possible to shift while moving, but it is very easy to grind the gears. The most fragile components in the gearbox are the dogs that keep top gear engaged. It doesnt take too much to taper these dogs, and when that happens the gearbox will start jumping out of gear. On a six/eight speed you absolutely need to be at a dead stop to shift between Hi and Low ranges. Otherwise you WILL bend or break the shift fork.

This is a fall picture of my 1964 604 . :)

For your consideration are some pics of my 1977 B-100.

Here is some more pictures for consideration........ "Lady Ranger" 1968 Commando 8 1045 and 4 Wheeled Wagon

Some winter pict's

one for ya

Here's a few of my favorites! KJ

That looks like a Christmas card if I ever saw one! Awesome Photo!

1963 753 1954 Pond RS 83 1963 753 1970 Raider 12 1954 Pond PT 20 Walk Away 1960 Suburban 400

it's not hard to put rings in, pull the engine out, that tractor may be one of the ones the oil pan is welded to the frame, remove the head, and oil pan if you didn't leave in the frame, in the bore will be carbon build up at the top you need to remove most or all of it, if you don't you could mess up the piston ring lands when removing the piston, take note of what way the rod is on the crank, and mark the rod cap so it goes back on the same way it came off, remove the piston and rod, be careful not to scratch the crank, now if your doing this on the cheap this is a bandaid and may not last a long time, figure out what size rings you need and get them coming, the engine may have been rebuilt at some time so you need to check the bore size, clean the piston up, take note on the rings how they are on the piston, I use a broken piece of ring to clean the ring groves out they need to be clean for the new rings to fit right, now cover the crank and make a plug to fit the bottom of the cyl. a cardboard circle, a plastic lid off a butter dish something to keep crud out of the bottom of the engine, you will need a hone to ruff up the cyl. most auto parts stores have them, there are 2 main styles the 3 blade/stone type and a dingle berry hone, it looks like a bottle brush with ball stones all over it, that style is pretty cheap and the easiest to use if you have never used one, I dip mine in a can of ATF and have it in my drill, you want to run it up and down the bore so it puts a cross hatch pattern in the bore, you want the pattern to have about a 30deg angle to it, X pattern this you will get by going up and down faster or slower, when you have that, clean the bore out good and wipe with a coat of motor oil, so no rust starts, with a clean piston and rod, carefully install the rings they will break, oh and for a cheap re-ring buy cast rings not moly rings cast will wear to a out of round bore faster, and I'm sure your bore is not round any more, do not line the ends of the rings up put the open ends on opposite sides of the piston, you will now need a ring compresor to compress the rings so the piston will slide in the bore, before putting the compressor on I dip the head of the piston just past the rings in oil, to aid in going in to the bore and sliding out of the compressor, remember what way the rod goes on the crank and install the piston, I use the handle of a rubber hammer to tap the piston in the bore, line the rod up and install the cap, there are specs for used rods, you will have to look up that info, there are other little tricks I do with out thinking about them, but you get the idea, this should get you started or not.