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This is a fall picture of my 1964 604 . :)

Ohmyfngarsh Its Mutual of Omahas Wheel Horse Kingdom

1970 Wheel Horse Safari 295 1968 Wheel Horse Indy 500

Here is some more pictures for consideration........ "Lady Ranger" 1968 Commando 8 1045 and 4 Wheeled Wagon

one for ya

Another fall picture of my 1964 604 . :)

1997 516 (Custom) with 1997 2 Stage Snowblower

1963 753 1954 Pond RS 83 1963 753 1970 Raider 12 1954 Pond PT 20 Walk Away 1960 Suburban 400

Here are a couple of shots of the 401. Thanks, Jake

Dont mean to highjack this thread but here is a pic of my RJ35 , I just bought this tractor from US and is now awaiting shipping to UK

Did some more painting yesterday but was too hasty on the hood and seat pan so I made a couple runs in the paint. But the other parts came out very well for this amateur. I really really like the hvlp top fed paint gun I'm using - I've never been able to paint this glossy before. Like a mirror!

I looked for a while to find the proper aux gas tank set up for the 520 but could not come across one so... I had this tank laying around so I fabricated a stand out of some 1/8 angle iron and hung it on the back. The tank came with an Economy parts tractor and had several coats of paint on it. I did not want to go crazy painting it with the IR Red because then I would have needed to do bodywork on it. Gave it a quick hand sanding then painted it with semi gloss black and a brush. I just need to buy a 1/8 barbed nipple and connect the fuel line and add gas. Now I do not have to fill up every time i mow the grass with this thirsty Onan 20hp !!

551 Rusty but still fairly straight...No engine or belt gaurd, holey deck and rotten tires.....

Just picked these up today. furthest away is a 1957 rj35, Middle is a 1956 rj35, and last is a 1955 rj35.

1991 Toro Wheel Horse 244-H.

I don't think it would tear anything up if you don't go nuts. You need a smaller pulley on the transaxle, and a smaller belt. Tractor Supply has a lot of pulleys, you can probably find one that fits there. I can't say for sure just how much smaller you want to go...you can probably find some info on how to calculate ratios and such if you do a google search. Me...I'd just eyeball it and take a swing.

the PLASTIC hoods on late toro wheelhorses & johndeeres ar so much junk that they should be set on fire and the corp.beancounters should have to breath the fumes till they see the light! just my opinion i could be wrong , Jay

I have 3 tractors, and two of them go much faster than stock. Easiest way to do is to change out the rear with a smaller one. Gonna need a bigger belt, but not hard to do. Both of mine have pretty small pulley's on the back, and one is changed on the front. I don't do alot with either, but what I have done I've never NOT have enough power. That's where its nice to have the low range if pulling something real heavy or just to go slow....

Consider, she's mighty mighty...just lettin' it all hang out!

Yep there old enough to smoke!

Damnit! Damnit, Damnit!!! Another one.... Damnit! This little guy lives 10 miles from me! We're going to need a lot more books!

Just about anything you could want to know about speeding up your horse can be found here..... Give it a look! :thumbs:

I am sure someone will tell you how to change the pulleys, but I guess the question is whether your need for speed is based on the low range behavior. I am not sure, but I think it is the same transmission I have in my 414-8, and both 3rd gear high and the reverse in high are frankly a bit faster than I am comfortable with most of the time. So if you feel like you are going slowly overall, maybe there are some other things going on. I assume you made sure the brake was not on. Is the engine at WOT? Governor set low? I know for me, I rarely actually use the tractor in first or second gear in low range (although I am going to take up snow removal this winter, so that may change... )

For your consideration are some pics of my 1977 B-100.

Some winter pict's

I went ahead and pulled the Seranos. They are not as long as the ones at the supermarket but there is a cold snap coming and I did not want to chance loosing them. I also picked more squash, okra, bell, and banana peppers.

I like all of these,never did see duels on a garden tractor till I joined the RS forum. These tractors are way cool!!

Last year I was ready early with stage and cab on 520 and a plow and cab on a C-81 and FEL on a C-141. No snow. This year too many irons in the fire and won't be able to get ready till late OCT. Probably have a blizzard next week.

Sorry. Forgot. Here's a pic!

Hi all, My fist post here - just bought (yesterday!) a wheel horse 1991 416h - 700+ hours, with a cab, 42" snow blower, 42" cutting deck and a Peco vac bagger with a 5HP brigs & stratton powerhouse. I'm leaving the big city and moving out to the country! I've been doing a TON of reading on these tractors - and must say, I love owning something so collectable, and restorable! I've been practising mounting the attachements in preparation for possession of my new house. Tonight I tried to attach the Peco vac. I removed the trailer ball / hitch from the rear end - thinking that the bagging system would somehow link in... cannot figure it out! I THINK I'm missing parts... For the life of me I cannot find any references to the Peco system on the internet, while its the exact same system shown on the OPerator's Manual of my Wheel Horse! Can anyone provide insite? It seems to have two "fingers" that hook onto the rear axle - thats about it... I'll try to post pics tomorrow... Mark

Engine looks like a work of art...who repops the ID tags Matt?

Just finished this a while back and maybe we'll get enough snow to use it this winter.

any thoughts on indications for Distance traveled MPH Exhaust gas temp Tilt of tractor - for safety reasons Battery Recharge - not amps or volts but amount of energy withdrawn - gauge would indicate "power units" as in 50 amp/ minutes, etc. Units of energy used during engine cranking are measured and replaced as tractor is charging - but you now know how many units need to be replaced before you shut the tractor off - extending battery life from undercharges. How about computer controlled carb settings - on the fly high and low speed needle valve adjustments Fly by wire throttle and choke - or heck, just automatic choke from engine temp sensors Don't like your ignition switch? how about an ENGINE START pushbutton instead of an ignition switch ? Trans temp warnings. Oil temp warnings. Maybe INTERACTIVE sensors - high oil temp may throttle back engine automatically. Think big thoughts - the future in lawn care will be here soon enough. More to follow. Keep the ideas coming.

Well did some work today on the 520 I needed to work on the Battery Area. I was thinking of glueing down som rubber and decided to cut a piece of floor board material and glue down. I also used a piece of delrin bar stock for the strap that would hold the battery down. Delrin is a very tough composite material that can actually be machined. I used two long 1/4 20 SS threaded rods to secure the battery. The postive cable is very long and is going to connect to a 200 amp digital Xscorpian amp gauge in the Snow cab. I springs under the seat needed some attention so I cleaned off all the loose plastic rubber on them buffed them with a wire wheel and then used some plastic dip and recoated them with three coats and let them harden overnight. Under the springs on the Seat Pan is a clear plastic that is glued in place to keep the springs from marring the finish. I glued down some thin rubber for this purpose. In the engine compartment there was the rear heat shield that needed some attention because of the change in the exhaust. After giving it a haircut it was painted and installed. I moved on and installed two new front wheel bearing covers. I then took it for a spin and later took some pictures. I would say as far as the tractor goes it is completed I did find a glitch due to a cobble job wire on a PTO switch that I will fix soon but did a temp fix on it for now. So how she look? Its been about a year since she has seen daylight. ~Duke

Thanks Martin. I've always been a sucker for these old Chevy trucks, and although its very neglected at the moment, this is my baby. She's a runner with a 383 stroker, with Scat forged rotating assembley, Manley forged pistons, Brodix IK200 heads, Lunati VooDoo series 292 cam, Edlebrock RPM Air Gap intake, Holley 800 DP Carb with a Proform main body, and the list goes on, and on. If I could get the transmission to stop exploding on me with its 3000rpm stall, and competion shift kit, I'd enjoy it a whole lot more! I really should go with a THM400, but with 4.10 gears, the THM700r4's overdrive, and lockup make for a much nicer highway RPM. I'm really enjoying seeing this little Briggs come together. Matt :flags-texas:

We have an Apple Festival each fall in my home town, and when I asked a friend of mine who is the Apple Festival President who this years entertainment was and he Replied The Kentucky Headhunters, I just about fell out of my chair. Not only am I a fan, but also if you are a long time subscriber to LAGC(T) you will know that the drummer Fred Young is a Lawn and Garden Collector ant Enthusiast, and LAGC did a feature on him in Jan/Feb 2009. Well Knowing that they would be performing Friday night, I contacted their buisness office and asked in my message if Fred would call me, and asked if he would like to see my Wheel Horse Collection while he was in town. I recieved a call back from Fred's Brother Richard Young, and he gave me Fred's E-Mail, and said that would be the best way to contact him. We made connection by E-Mail and he said he would call Friday afternoon when he was Awake. (they left friday morn from KY at 12:00 a.m Musicians sleep durring the day as they perform at night). Fred gave me a call at 3:00 pm, and we hooked up at 3:30 and I went to their Bus and Met Fred and the band his brother Richard Young, Rhythm Guitar, Doug Phelps Base & lead singer, And their cousin Greg Martin Lead Guitar. Fred showed me pictures of all his tractors and home. After that we walked to my house (which is actually about 400 yards from their Bus). We then hung out at my Horse Stable for about 3 hours and had a great time. I showed him my Stable, My collection and my hauler. Fred is a wondeful person, and really loves tractors. We talked about everything from A to Z and he was really Taken by the New Snow Chucker, and he even gave me some painting tips.Those 3 hours flew by in a blink of an eYe. I gave him a few WH Goodies A few Jars of Apple Juice, and MJ set him and the band up with some of Her Famous Baked Goods. Around 9:00 pm we watched them perform and they brought down the house. After their show, MJ I and my granddaughter Henny hung out with the band at their Bus, and Fred had their PR guy give us Hats T Shirts and the band signed them and then he gave Henny a set of signed Drum Sticks! You talk about a wondeful afternoon and evening, I had the best time of my life. It just goes to show you, Ya meet alot of great guys in this hobby. Fred has invited me and MJ to his place to see his collection from what I have seen by pictures he has a heck of a collection 30 cubs, Wheel Horses, a Shaw Du All, Bollens and many many more Looks like that will be a nice Road Trip. Here are some pics of his visit. Cheers ~Duke Below is a link to one of their Videos Â

Thanks, Kpin, The tranny is 1" axle, so you say it's probably 4 pinion.. Just got one step closer to the LOOK i'm after. Moved the steering column back. Now I'm thinkin puller.

Wiring can be eliminated by measuring the DC voltage drop (power lost) from the battery (+) terminal to the starter terminal. Place a meter probe on the battery (+) and the other probe on the starter terminal. Crank the engine and watch the multimeter. If the meter registers more than 0.5 volts - wiring could be a contributor to your problem. p.s. the voltmeter reading will fluctuate as the starter draws more and less current thru the 4 cycles of combustion - an analog meter (one with a pointer) may be a better choice over a digital meter - unless the digital has a max / min feature to record the maximum voltage drop during the testing period. click images to enlarge an alternate method would be to connect the starter directly to another lead acid battery or charger via jumper cables. If the starter cranks over the engine without stalling, this would also confirm the start circuit wiring is in need of further inspection.

From winter 1977:

i nominate Wheel - N -IT tilling

OMG I was wrong! I received the books directly from Michael Martino earlier in the summer. Too keep them safe, I never opened the package. I had thought that there was a first and second edition book in there, but I was wrong. I have 2 BRAND NEW SIGNED FIRST EDITION books here! Not a first and second, but TWO FIRST EDITION BOOKS! Guys, these books are BRAND NEW direct from Michael Martino. You guys know what these bring USED on eBay right? Well I have 2 BRAND NEW one's that 2 lucky people are going to get for $10 each! Honestly, if you haven't purchased your chance what are you waiting for? I am SO ENVIOUS of the winner, these books are unbelievable!

I like to check the tach on my 520HC before I engage the 48" deck to be sure I have the RPMS up over 3,000. I also like to see if the governor is keeping the RPMs up when I hit tall grass. I also use the tach to check and set the idle speed. The more instrumentation the better for me. I like to see what the engine is doing rather than just relying in sound. There is also the cool factor. If I had a choice I would pick an analog display over digital for the older wheel horses. If the display is digital and if for wheel horses, then the instrument should display RPM in digits and the case should have the same size and look (face and trim) as existing wheel horse gauges. A digital tach in a wheel horse style case (with the case matching the model series) with installation instructions would be neat to have available.

Looks like Santa Claus came early for you Jake!

How you gonna sleep tonight Jake?

Looks like quite the haul. Now Jake if I have to listen on chat about how you need more tractors after this, I am going to come to Michigan and you lol. Good luck with it! -Charles

HOLY SH...MOKES JAKE! Looks like Kelly's got some competition now.

Sanded down the runs on the hood and fender pan and repainted. It took three times and over a week of sanding then respraying but I FINALLY laid down the paint on the hood without any runs! What a pain! These pictures were taken immediately after painting so there appears to be some orange peal on the fender pan. Once the paint settles and the acetone evaporates there will be little to no orange peal. I should re-take pictures of these once the paint drys but I'm a little exited to finally lay down a smooth coat on these surfaces. I've had no problem with runs or orange peal on the small stuff but the hood and fender pan have taken over a week to master.

Slop in the throttle shaft aint helping matters much, but I'd toss those points. Cleaning them with sandpaper is not a good idea. This is a sure fire way to round off the contact faces so they don't close flat. They will also tend to not close along the same center line every time, which in effect changes the gap. Changing the gap changes the engine timing. If you have no choice but to clean a set of points then a good old points file is the best way. A piece of heavy card stock is a decent alternative if you can't find a points file. As for it being hard to pull, ??? Is the resistance steady through the whole rotation of the crank or does it go from relatively easy to very hard as compression builds? Does the engine "kick back" if it fires but doesn't quiet start up? If it's kicking back then the timing may be advanced too much, causing it to fire too soon. Too much point gap will do that. If the points are rounded off then the effective gap is actually wider than what you will measure with a feeler gauge. If you have a timing light check the timing with the light. Also make sure the points are closing flat, square, and on center. You can bend the contact arm(s) to adjust this. This MAY be related to your problem with the drive belt not releasing completely. IE. you may be pulling the transmission as well as the engine. This is a carburetor fed engine. It relies on vacuum through the carb body to pull fuel into the combustion chamber. If you can't spin it fast enough it doesn't build enough vacuum to pull enough fuel into it to start.