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Today was a good day at the auction i won this wheel horse for $80 and it runs. First of I hate auctions because everybody comes and bids high on junk and they think getting a good deal.I only went because a good friend asked me to.The auction started out slow and it took 4 hours in the cold wet rain to come around to this Hidden Wheel Horse behind a bunch of other tractors. Of course the local scrapper guy was there moping up all the unwanted steel. He was bidding against me and i wasn't going to let him take this little guy get away from me!!! So i won and have to pick it up Sunday or Monday. I didn't even check what model it was i know i just wanted to get away from the scrapper guy! It seems like thats my thing lately saving Wheel horses from a scrapper/scrap yard lol. Thats the 4th Wheel horse in 2 months.

Uh yeah, that don't look like a Jeep for your wife . Thats a nice looking MMO. MMOOO. MMMOOOPPA. MMMOOPPPAA. MOPAR.. There I said it . It will never happen again :ychain: . Good luck with it. Have fun. Pat

In my opinion that was the best year for them. Nice car! I'm a little jealous. Oh, by the way....somebody want to tell duke it's not a T bird?

Ive had good luck taking those fuel pumps apart and cleaning the little valves. My gt14 was hard to start after it sat for a week so i took the pump apart and one of the valves fell out, put it back in and now it starts good.

Not sure if this has been discussed a lot in the past but I was wondering how people feel in this regard and what everyone sees as advantages and disadvantages. I have had my B-100 auto for a few years and absolutely love pushing snow with it - actually doing almost any work with it. I just picked up the C-81 8 speed and so far so good. Still, I'd like to know what the experts think as to advantages/disadvantages of both. Any particular edge for one over the other when it comes to certain types of duties?

I didn't want to do another restoration this winter, but when this one followed me home, I couldn't resist. Since the featured tractors at the Wheel Horse Collectors Club show next year are the 1961's, this 701 will have to be there.

GOT IT HOME!!!!!!!! so excited....BUT I guess it only has a 426 Hemi in it...not the 528 I guess 438HP will have to do for now.

Well its finally alive! The rj35 is finally driving. I got a clinton for it last weekend that is fantastic, starts on the first pull every single time!!! She still has a way of things to be done with it but sure am glad its going. I have a schnake for it, need to get the belt guard to fit, get a throttle cable, and the correct tank for it and put the brake kit on it. Pretty hard and scary driving it LOL no belt guard, no throttle cable, and no guard on the engine. Here are a couple pics of how it is now. ~Jake

Just rescued a lawn ranger from weeds. Serial #62-17528. posted pics in Shynon's horses gallery. Looking for help on what year, motor etc. Thanks for your help. Thanks Tom

thanks mike,i havent been around much for a long while but i have been lurking around much more lately.

Opinions will always vary on this subject. 4 and 8 speeds are no stronger than an auto, so long as you are comparing units that are all in good shape. Mechanical transmissions are less needy in the maintainance department, and less expensive to repair if you need to. But, they don't afford the convienience of a hydrostatic. As has already been said, I prefer to till and garden plow with an 8-speed, and mow and plow gravel with a hydro. it's just a preference, as either machine will do all those chores. My best answer to your question is this: Keep one or more of each!

i love my hydros for mowing, the 8 speeds 2nd gear is too slow & 3rd gear is too fast for a good cut. that said i love all my horses & i work half of them every week. i push dirt & garden plow with a c161 Jay

From the distant past: The link to Joels dimensions are in the thread, but here it is again: http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd206/combatmp29r/7-1112%20grader%20%20blade/tractor123.jpg

Stacks rock! Here's my C-121 with a tsc ac-1 or a ac-4, can't remember which I decided on. Either way it's for a Massy Fergy Son. I cut the 90 off the old muffler and used it for the stack, but the hood would hit it while opening. Had a local shop extend it for me and left it to color naturally. Kinda ruff, but it's a worker. I have no idea why the first pic is on twice.

My dad is heading to Lexington on Tuesday! Maybe I will get it :woohoo:

hears my tsc ac-1 muffler

Oh sure....they're cute when they're small and young, but then he'll grow up and you wont be able to feed and house him and you'll conveniently leave him by the side of the road near a Florida swamp. Then we'll all be reading about it in the National Enquirer. "DINO SPOTTED IN FLORIDA SWAMP" will be the headlines found in supermarket checkout-lines all over the country. Mike............

What do ya think? Yeah I know another wheel horse with a stack. I think it looks good though, and it seems to run a little better. Im trying to think up a theme for my new hobby. So far its a black stack black wheels and ag tires on the back prolly 6 12 and tri ribs on the front ill prolly go with 4.00 8. Oh and those cool looking can lights lol, I like em anyways.

shes got a hood, a throttle cable, and part of a brake kit. I need to heat up the pedal on the other tractor so I can put it on. ~Jake didn't have the correct size gas tank. Lets keep this a secret

nice save, bring it to the big show in pa. in june. 1961 tractors are featured. i vote for cleaning & preserving the patina! again nice tractor! Jay

Have you checked to be sure there is a drain plug???? Sorry...bad joke....

One of the job's I need to do on the beast is move the battery from it's hiding place under my left foot (when sitting on the beast of course) to somewhere it might be handy for a foot!! With the battery here (well it was) my feet were a couple of inches higher than they would normally be sitting on a standard Raider.. A couple of inches may not sound like much, but it's enough to keep giving me cramp in both legs while driving it!! So the battery will be moved to the spot where this blue plastic tray thingy is.. If I put the batt in a nice sturdy steel box it will also give me something to brace my foot against while tackling steep downhills The footplate on this side will need cutting from the belt guard and lowering between the chassis rails.. While the 3 point was out the box I thought I'd best make a start on getting it mounted.. Lot's of bit's plonked in place so I could do some ing and work out what would work, and what wouldn't. First things first though, I needed to make some mounts for the base of the rams... A bit of digging on the bench found this gudgeon pin from a KT-17 engine.. A perfect fit in the base of the ram A couple of bit's of angle to make the mount out of. Sorted.... Almost... They still need a trim to tidy them up. A closer look.. They will be welded on when I know exactly where they need to go.. The top of the arm will be attached to an arm which will pivot on a rod across the back.. You can see the rod in the first two photo's. The bearing blocks I actually made quite a while ago.. I just needed a way to mount them.. My first thought was to weld these plates to the frame and bolt the bearing blocks inside them... Until I realized I wouldn't be able to remove the rod if needs be!! So I did it the other way around... The bearing block is in there somewhere!!! It's in need of a bit of finishing work. This should be strong enough once bolted on the frame.. One side made, one to go..

you are a hero well done you for saving that little beauty from the scrap man It looks to be complete If that came up for auction here in the UK , that would fetch around $1500, so you did well to save it

I've experienced the same with with both my 14 & 16 Kohler engines. The 16 is running once every 1-2 weeks depending on the lawn but it seems like TT says the gas is running back into the tank. As he suggests I've been turning the gas off at the tank. That stops it. The 14 isn't being used that much and I've had to prime it to get it started. I can see the clear line filter empties when they sit. Once the're running they start easily every time while the filter is partially full.

Here's my makeshift paint booth. Don't tell my neighbor this is what im doing with his pop up canopy

Last weekend I cleaned the Hydro Transmission.Then Dad painted it. Today we put most of the parts that had been painted together.

Here are a couple of my stacks. My 74 B-80 with a TSC muffler, and my son Danny's 52 Bantam with a custom stack made out of an old Briggs hot dog muffler. Matt :flags-texas:

Try replacing the spark plug even if it was recently replaced. If you've done all the necessary carb cleaning and it's still not working it's probably an ignition issue. I once had the same issue on my 12hp Kohler and couldn't figure it out. It turned out to be that the BRAND NEW spark plug wasn't firing properly. I replaced it with the old spark plug and - voila!

Nice Blower Lars You will appreciate how the tall chute throws. The wings are there to extend the 36 inch auger width, to pull in snow 3" extra on each side for a width of 42 inches, thus it is called a 42 inch single stage thrower. In the files section there is a manual I posted that is pretty much the same as your unit. In that manual you can see the wings are to angle out but the last bend is to face forward to cut a line in the snow not plow it as they would in your original configuration. Also note that the Vee wire in front of the chute is to prevent you from sticking a hand into the chute to unclog set heavy snow while the auger is rotating. It shouldnt be moving as the PTO safety switch will shut the tractor off when not seated but as a caution in case you by passed that PTO switch they put in the wire. Note that in fluffy snow with a light wind and the chute facing forward or slightly turned the auger throws some snow lout forward missing the top of chute through that wire area guard and it comes back on the driver. I posted a video last January which shows that blowback of upward snow that passes the wire guard. Later models of the single, as well as 2 stage blowers, have an 8 inch metal chute cover in front of the opening where the wire is shown in your photos. The snow that might travel out the front through the wire guard hits the solid cover in front, thus redirecting that 10% of the snow upward to the top of chute where it joins the main snow flow and reduces the blowback. That is why they added the front cover in later models. Not the end of the world but if no cab but it does make for more blow back onto the driver. Here is a link to theposting asking about the cover and what it would impact then the dimensions to build a cover. The factory covers bolt on by using the tall chute bolts at the bottom near the gear ring. Mine uses the wire guard holes with wing nut bolts so it is easy to remove before a storm if the snow is wet so it will be easier to unclog if a slushy snow is to be blowed. The blowback is only from fluffy snow. Here is the link. . About half way through the posting I have a diagram with dimensions to the right of the photo and if you click the diagram it will enlarge so you can print it full size. Cost was $7 for a piece of sheet metal large enough to make 2 covers and Toro I think has them for $50 EA. The cover did help last winter for the small fluffy January storm we finally had in the NE. Now lets hope for enough snow to have to actually use a blower this year Wyatt BTW I have 2 extra high chute blowers that came with tractors I have bought in the past and will put both up for sale next month. They are in nice shape with tight chains and sprokets and come with lift rods and flags. Just need to dig them out of the back of the barn when I get time. Also have a 48" plow w/ rear bracket for sale next month.

I use a section of clear fuel line so I can see if fuel is sitting at the input to the carburetor or not when cranking. If the fuel is there and it does not fire then it is not a fuel delivery problem. It seems that the fuel pumps get weak on the older engines and allow the fuel to drain back. This is an example of the use of the clear fuel line and a shut off on a D-160 to prevent drain back if the pump is weak on this engine.

If the engine only starts hard after sitting for a few days or more but starts immediately once it has been running, the line is draining back and the pump is losing prime. Because the float bowl is vented, the gas evaporates and there's nothing for the engine to fire on. I have had Onans, Kohlers, and Briggs & Strattons all do this on tractors with the under-fender gas tanks. Aside from lightly pressurizing the tank, (as Kevin mentioned) another option is to close the fuel valve under the tank when the tractor will be parked for longer time periods. (that will keep the line and pump full) Another option would be to add an inline primer bulb: example

A couple of things...your points control the timing on these engines. Try setting them with the "Static Method" or if they are set at 0.020 try setting them at 0.018. I have a 10 hsp on my B-100 and it was doing the same thing. I cleaned all the grounds and put in a new battery...it is down to about 7 cranks now. It also seems to help, especially when it is cold outside, to hold in the clutch pedal when cranking...not turning the belt and the input shaft on the transmission.

Remember the fuel pump is only helping to pump gas in to the carb float bowl, it does not pressurize gas in to the engine or anything like that. Choke cables can go out of adjustment, make sure the choke valve is able to close all the way when cold starting. It shouldn't take more than a few cranks for the engine to fire under full choke at half throttle. If its a lot more I would look for a dirty plug, heavy carbon buildup in the combustion chamber and around the valves, as mentioned the cold valve clearance adjustments, and the points adjustment. -Mark-

When cranking the engine with the output hose off of the pump, you should get spurts of several inches on each revolution. I'm sure that you know this, but it never hurts to restate it. The Wheel Horse owners manual says that the proper starting procedure is to set the throttle at halfway, and the choke at full. If all of the above is okay, pull the spark plug and check it's color. A fluffy black deposit means you are running too rich, white is too lean. Clean the plug and reset the gap. If you take the carburetor off again, remove the breather covers and check your valve clearances.

Glad to hear it's alive!! I actually like the look of no hood on it as well. Reminds me of my Suburban before I got it back together. I was pumped, and just had to plow snow with it. No throttle cable, guard...same scenerio. Gotta love it!!

Thanks.

From what I can find, the Halogen part numbers (Toro) are 110792 which supercedes to 99-7310. The bulbs are about $20 each which is quite high. Mike, can you tell if there is a mfg number on the back of the bulb? There is probably a GE equiv. which would be about $10.