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Think yourself lucky you have a choice Here in UK a Snow Blower is so rare we have to improvise and i am so poor i can only afford these However these do have the luxury of having tinted windows & Hazard lights,

I need a cab here in the northern Michigan snowbelt. I used my 314-A and single stage one winter without it and now I wouldn't be without it. Those of you that have met me know I don't fill it out as well as some of you could . So I don't have a problem with it beign too confined but it does FEEL that way sometimes. I blow snow with tennis shoes and a light jacket with no problem. The biggest gripe I have is that it's extremly loud in the cab so I wear hearing protection.

Real men don't use cabs I get a lot of wind up here but don't use a cab. Some times you can only use the blower in one direction and have to dead head back for a second pass. You learn pretty quick, sort of like tugging on superman's cape or peeing into the wind. I like to see what i am doing cabs are too confining.

Looks like some glasses Sir Elton would wear..... :)

I HATE EM! Who likes 70deg when you can be 10deg.

I have blown snow with and without a cab..... DO NOT REMOVE YOUR CAB!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I will NEVER blow snow without one again. I am 6'1" and 235 lbs.... it's a little tight for me too (especially when I get all my gear on) but it is SO worth it!!!

Went with SteveBo and our boys to check this place out today. SALTYWRIGHT (Russ) had told me about it a few years ago but I had never got around to going and it's only 20 minutes from home. It is privately owned and only open by appointment. There over 179 tractors etc from the late 1800's and up. The unbelievable part is every single tractor, truck etc runs and operates/drives as it should . Here are some picture to drool over. There were more things to look at but we were chasing the kids around. Here's a video of one running and driving.

I have a 1989 520HC with the ONAN 20hp p220 engine with about 700 hours on it. I have owned it for about 2 years and it has been running fine until this year when I took it out of storage and the engine started to surge and needed more choke to stay running. I have been using Seafoam as a fuel stabilizer for storage over the winter. I took the carburetor apart today to clean it and i could not believe the crud that was in it, There was about a tablespoon of light brown powder in the bowl that looked like light brown sugar. The fuel inlet hole where the fuel comes in and the float needle opens and closes was plugged with the crud. Also, the engine was covered with grime that would inhibit cooling especially around the rear cylinder. The rear cylinder of an aluminum block ONAN on a Wheel Horse 520H lives in a tough environment as far as cooling goes, Perhaps that is why there have been so many valve seat and broken rod problems. It would not be a bad idea to remove the air cleaner and thoroughly clean the engine every few years rather than waiting for a failure. A vented belt guard and or remote oil filter is also a good idea. Now that I have the intake and exhaust removed i will also check the valve clearances. I will do a de-carbon in the fall when I take the tractor out of service and I can remove the engine for a more thorough cleaning.. Luckily there is a Mobil station nearby that started selling no ethanol fuel for $4.25 per gallon which I will start using. You definitely need to go out of your way to keep those ONAN twins clean and cool on a Wheel Horse.

Very nice job on the trailer Lars. I love the look of the fenders.

I havent tried to work out why, but the fan system on the Onan flywheel pulls a ton more air than any other small engine I have ever owned. While mowing my (nearly) 2 acres with the Onan I have to lean forward and clear the debri's off the fan screen on both the front and back "straightaways",, any of the Kohler powered tractors its maybe every 2nd lap. I guess that works both ways - it is super easy for the air intake side (the screen on the flywheel) to become blocked up, but when that inlet screen is clear the flywheel does move a bunch of air over the motor. I'm still undecided on whether the belt guard has an effect. Venting it certainly wouldnt hurt, but I need to come up with a really nice way of doing it before I start chopping it up. I've been pulling the shrouds of my motor at the beginning of spring and again 1/2 way through the summer, and havent been too horrified by the amount of clippings around the motor. My engine is relatively dry though, it wouldnt take much of an oil leak to collect a bunch of nastiness.

Be careful when doing this. Do not wrap the emery cloth around your fingers and hold onto it lightly! The key way can snag it and pull your fingers into it! A lot of machinist out there missing digits from polishing shafts on lathes. It is an every day practice, but takes care to be safe.

The military has figured out how to open velcro in a way that you can't hear it open.Here is how they do it... http://www.fark.com/vidplayer/7330383

I knew that you and your little gal with the ukulele would pipe up soon. :)

I Just love the look of that tractor, and the best thing about it is that is the only one in the world that looks like that keep it original Oh and by the way Mrs Zeek looks Fab driving on the tractor too , youre a lucky man

Got a question to ask? Does anybody have any interest in us getting together for a Big Ten game? Give us food for thought if you might happen to have any ideas on that subject.

Ain't nothing wrong with that! I think it looks great. Can't wait until we all get together again over burgers, brats, corn on the cob, and tractors, and I can see it in person.

At least I am consistent! :greetings-clappingyellow:

Thanks for keeping track of us Duke. -BK

They don't just collect any old tractor they can find. They look for the odd and rare ones. The grandson of the founder told us that one of the large prairie tractors they have is one of three left in existence. The grandfather paid $80,000. for it in 1985! At auction today he said it would go north of $400,000. They also have others that are one of's only a handful known left. It's hard to wrap your head around the fact that everything they have actually runs and operates. I have seen large collections before but many were static only and maybe a few of the displays actually ran. This collection is just amazing!

You'll also see similar mistakes in the parts manuals that were published by Wheel Horse way back when. I've seen several cases over the years where the heading at the top of a page clearly doesn't match the diagram shown below it. Like Terry says, be careful. When in doubt, I've found that one of my local Toro dealers (who was also a WH dealer for many years) has better software than anything I've seen online, with literally NO confusion about which part I need. He helps me out, I order from him, even if he's a little more expensive (he's always very competitive).

I have got one tractor with a newer style cab on it and there is a lot more room than one of the cabs thats used on a C series. Taking the cabs on and off to me is a big pain in the back side. Storing them is a pain too. With that being said when I go out to plow or blow and the wind is blowing like crazy out here in the wide open it feels good not having the snow in your face or the good ol down your neck and back. When I was younger I just piled on the clothes now I climb in the cab with less clothes. It does take some getting use to being in a cab. Lots of blind spots that you have to be aware of. If you are aware of them they can be safe and comfortable.

I guess I am just an outside kind of guy. I do not even use a tent when I am ice fishing. Visibility is one of the main reasons, I live on a busy street, but the main reason is that I really like winter. One more reason...everyone loves a snow man.

I think you are going to find people lined up waiting to buy your cab... Personally I have one and wouldn't be without even plowing. I agree about the confined feeling but once you get used to it and figure out the blind spots you will really appreciate keeping out of the weather. My 520H throws the heat into the cab and I am taking layers of clothes off the longer I am in it. I can say blowing snow sucks if you don't have wipers.

You're right about the tight confines, and much over 6' tall...you're gonna feel like a sardine in there. All things considered...I like using my cab much better than coming back in the house covered in snow. I do use my cab together with my blower set up though...not the plow.

I Have used AMSOIL synthetic in everything i own . Including their transmission fluid and many of their other products for about 18 years now. Check out their web site, it is full of info about oil testing, viscosity breakdown and on and on they even post test results from their testing ,even if somebody elses oil is better in one area. not many companies post any info let alone test results.Their oil is definitely one of the best out there. It does everyting they say it does. KEN

Another option is this. My buddy made it for me, and it pulls from the back of the hub rather than the thinner flange. No chance of breaking a hub- but it only works on those with room between the hub and case. For the hubs that have no exposed axle, there is no room to to mount it. For the ones that it will fit on, they come off with ease. Just an idea....

Looking good Lars. You could also make receivers for those ramps, so they double as short sides for your trailer when not in use.

Hey Sparky, Lars gets about 20 hours of day light at this time of year. Real nice work Lars, I like what you did with that trailer.

Now that is a Horse Hauler for sure, Great Job!

If the dates on the pics are correct it was road ready in only 10 days.....nice work! Mike..........

All small engines have crank case "pulses" ... When the piston goes up the cylinder, the volume inside of the crank case increases, as it comes down, the volume decreases. as John explained the reed valve vents allow air to be pushed out on the down stroke of the piston, but not in on the upstroke, causing a vacum inside the crank case. As the rings and bore in your engine wear they will begin leaking , allowing more pressure into the crank case than what it can vent causing the amount of vacum to reduce and eventually they can actually start building pressure in the crank case. One of the signs of badly worn rings is oil being pushed out of the breather tube. This is caused by the excessive pressure in the crank case.

Here are some pict.. sry it's a bit dark

LARS: So are you having any snow in NORWAY yet? How about posting a couple photos or a video of that great snowplow -you and your brother made on Red Square? You guys did a fabulous job at fabricating that plow and frame. It was a great inspiration for all Wheel Horse enthusiasts!

Just read this thread & wanted to say nice job Lars. For building from scratch your snow plow turned out great. :text-goodpost:

All the bearings and seals have been installed in both case halves Need to remove bearing #1518 from input shaft #3522 Used 1/8 carbide end mill to cut a slot in the old bearing Old bearing fell out after cut ready to press in new bearing This pic shows all the transmission parts numbered in the order they are installed in the narrow case half for those who have never done this I started with the case sitting on it's bottom like when it on the tractor Install #1 #3522 input shaft #2 #3903 brake shaft #3 differential and axle's with bolt head's towards large gear on brake shaft at this point I turned the case up on it's end #4 #cluster shaft with all gears on shaft #5 #4204 reverse idler and #3909 pin #6 #3907 spline shaft with #3523 (hi inter.) gear #3524 (low & reverse) gear and rear shifting fork and rail#3516 half moon scallops on shaft must face towards front of transmission with the shifting fork in it's groove in the hi-inter. gear #3523 install the #3907 spine shaft in the bearing on the end of the #3522 input shaft and the shift fork rail #3516 in the rear bore for the shift rail line up the middle scallop on the rail with the cross hole in the rail bore holes. At this time also remove gear #3526 and snap ring from #3907 spline shaft and #3527 gear from #3910 cluster shaft #7 put a small dab of grease on one 1/4" ball and put it front rail bore until falls in to the cross hole then drop the spring and rod in thru the cross hole from the end of the transmission case (I used a drill bit but any 3/16" dia rod will work I think the next one I do I'am going to use a 3/16" tee handle allen wrench) add a small dab of grease to the end of the rod and stick the other 1/4" ball on it and place it on the spring in the cross hole #8 now slide #3524 gear (low & reverse )out near the end of the spline shaft and add the front shifting fork and rail #3515 in the groove in #3524 gear next slide the gear and front shift rail back until the rail starts in the front rail bore STOP push down on the rod to compreess the 1/4" ball and spring then slide the front shift rail in until it touch's the rod keep pushing on the front shift rail as you remove the rod the shift rail should slide down in it's bore to line up with the rear shift rail reinstall snap ring and gear's #3527 & #3526 different angle I used yamabond on both case halves and placed the gasket on the thick half as it has the alignment dowel pin's (it will help hold the gasket in place) then I placed the the case half with all the gears in my lap and slid the thick half down on it a couple of lite taps from a dead blow hammer and it came together I then put it on the bench and bolted together with new stainless hardware last thing was a over spray of rustolem gloss clear :thumbs2: