Leaderboard

Put the 16 Kolher in the 125 while you rebuild the 12 Kolher and restore the 160. " I love it when a plan come together."

If it is your first restore then I woiuld start with whichever one you want to practice on and then learn from your mistakes and do the one you want to come out the best last..

what a Fantastic job ypu have done for your dad , he is gonna be delighted, ( i would be ) Dont forget to get the pics of him opening his fathers day present

After 4 years of derusting, streightening dents, rebuilding trans and motor, finding parts, and alot of help from my dad. Here it is the finished product! And the man that helped bring it all together. (woodchuckfarmer) Thank you dad for your hard work and help with this project. Thanks to my wife for all her patience and time taking the photos.

Thanks everyone for your help. PTO is rebuilt with new bearings, oil seal, race and stub shaft. Clutch plate has been degreased and it works. I managed to this (mostly) myself (I had an auto mechanic who works on my car help me get the old bearing out).. It is on and the mower works much better than it used to.. I have a feeling that it may have been slipping the whole time, and I did not really notice it. either that or putting the belt on the inner pulley makes that much of a difference. The only fly in the ointment is that the PTO still gets pretty hot... but given it is full of new parts, I am just going to keep my eye on it and see if that matters.

Finished and ready for the show This was a tail of two old horse's that needed a helping hand although this thread is ending the story of these two wheel-horse's is just beginning anew Brian

Ideas like these are why it's imperative to have as a resource when working on tractors. Great minds think............even greater thoughts. :thumbs:

Ok, so no pressure on me then....... The diesel had been left to soak in for about 24 hours but nothing had come through onto my piece of paper (discovered the reason later). I had intended to apply some more and leave again but temptation got the better of me so out came the puller set that I'd got off a well known auction site. Cost me £20 + shipping. Assembled the necessary bits in place around the steering wheel... The nut on the steering wheel shaft was adjusted to be flush with the end of the shaft and a bolt with a couple of washers on it placed into the hollow centre to the shaft. The two halves of the puller were not done up tightly, just adjusted to be a snug fit round the steering wheel boss without clamping together on the shaft. So with everything lined up squarely.... Tightened the puller bolt using a hand wrench till it was a tight as I could get it. Before anyone says 'he's mad - use the impact wrench!' - this was all a bit of an experiment so I wanted to try avoiding too much brute force unless it was really needed. Anyway, a couple of sharp taps squarely on the end of the puller bolt with what was actually a fairly small hammer and I heard the note change. Sure enough the puller bolt could be turned using the wrench and the splines were on the move. Slackened off the puller enough to remove the bolt with washers and the steering wheel nut then replaced the bolt with its washers so that the puller could be used again. Using the hand wrench it was fairly stiff but on the move and...... Off came the steering wheel. Sorry about the quality of photo here, didn't notice what the auto focus had locked on to. I'll get the hang of my camera one day! You'll see that the diesel had made it down to the bottom of the splines. The reason it didn't leave a tell-tale mark on the piece of paper was that the splines actually only go about half way down the steering boss so that they're tucked up out of the way where rain can't get to them. I was also fortunate I guess that the foam washer thingy had remained intact and had done a good job of stopping too much damp geting up there. The rusting on mine had occurred from top downwards I guess. So there it is - if you did put any money down on this then I hope you won. It's hard to say whether acetone /ATF would have been better but the diesel certainly did the trick for me. It's obviously impossible to say how badly rusted the splines were on mine compared with other cases but I still had the impact wrench if needed so I guess they could have been worse and still come off with that. I know from many past experiences that it only takes a very small amount of rust to lock splines in solid so without doubt there will always be cases where it's a lost cause but to my mind if anything will get the surfaces to slide again then diesel has to be up there with the front runners when it comes to penetrating fluids. Obviously I'm real pleased that it came off, though of course I won't think too much about the time I spent working round it during the resto. It also restored a bit of faith in the video that put the idea into my head that I ought to at least try - I did wonder if it had been staged, particularly when I saw the state of the steering wheel nut etc on my tractor. Andy

This is a good plan. This way you will have two pieces of equipment you can rely on while working on the other. Plus you will keep the 160 motor alive.

Practice makes perfect.

Hello Donnie here. As some of you know I had my frame stolen in front of my garage. I had all the parts ready to go back together and the frame was gone. I was at a loss as to what to do next. So I made a post on Red Square asking for someone to sell me a frame. I had three people answer my post. Wheel-Mule, m151a1 & SpecialWheelHorse. I want to thank all three of you for answering my post. A real BIG THANK YOU to SpecialWheelHorse, for selling me the 800 Special. Also want to thank the people behind Red Square without them none of this would have happened. I am putting up some pictures & will post more as the build goes along. Donnie.

Ok Fellas.. Time to Post some pict of what i got... in the crate. This is how the crate was when ill pict it up in Halden(norway) I would say Rooster did a good job on it.. whit a lot of SCREWS in it LOL... and here is a pict of the car and trailer on the way home ... And finaly the crate was in the workshop wooooohooooooooo and it was easy to get in on the trailer whit the forklift.. but a lot worse to get it of... LOL but whit help from my brother we got it of.. ok lets go.. Then it was time for me to get Rooster on the Skype..and start Unpack the crate.. Jipppykayehhh ohh boy lots of nice parts.. about half done And finaly i got all the parts out of the crate.... and Da#¤#¤ how small those tractors are... Then it was time to look over all the parts and try to figure out where all that parts are going.. then it was time to head to bed.zzzzzzzzzzz... Next day i just clean up all the parts to get the dirt off and se the cond it is.. Got the Hood on the E tank after 6.5 hrs in the tank it looked like this took it out and washed it WOW and the other parts i clean up Thanks for watching.. And id realy need to say Thank u To Rooster for all he did to me.. Amasing... And To specialwheelhorse for the parts they are almost like new.. And To RacinFool for all the trannyparts.. good stuff M8 And To SmokinJoe for the steeringwheel that will work for me. and to all the other ppl that i cant remember right now.. THANKS ALL.. Lars

Agreed! Get your 125 running so you will have two working Horses while the 160 is down for painting. You will probably do more that just some painting. There is always an extra thing or two or three to do with a facelift project.

hood , gas tank,fuel line, decals, throttle cable, kill switch, steering wheel almost done brian

I would say the non running 125 first. :WRS:

If you need the Bentonite grease I have two LARGE tubes of it, brand new

Grease is called bentonite and it is very expensive and is not made any more except by one manufacturer as an aftermarket grease. The couple I have torn apart have not needed any new grease and I have scooped it out and reused it several times. If you do split it open try not to disturb any parts you do not have to once you see the inside you will see why. Go out on the internet and search for the repair manual it will save you a lot of headaches. One manual covers almost all transmissions and don't pay for it if it isn't free keep searching

Your Dad was blessed with a good Son too.

His dad had one when my dadwas a kid and he's made the comment that he wishes he could have kept it so I thought why not give him what he deserves after all he's the only dad ill ever have

That is a drop dead gorgeous nutroaster! The father and son projects are the best! Matt :flags-texas:

I agree completely. They licensed rights to reproduce decals. They send a rep or two to the WH show each year. They donated a $5000 tractor to the WHCC club in 2006. The provide the parts viewer on the website. The sell copy/reprint manuals. It goes on... I think Toro kept the WH name alive far beyond what really was necessary. The fact they they were still building the Classic GT tractor in 2007 shows real committment, especially when demand was so low that a few can still be found unsold 5 years later. Deere didn't do that. Neither did Cadet. Or Simplicity. Or...Shoot, the only one I can think of that built a legacy machine in recent times was Ingersoll, but even they may be dead now. I don't lament the new equipment at all. If it is at all similar to other current Toro products it is a well-designed piece of equipent that performs its intended purpose effectively. The fact that it's a lightweight LT and not a lumbering, cast iron GT has only to do with people like all of us who don't buy new equipment. Geez, how many of us even have a Toro push mower? And they're probably some of the best in the market. Why Toro even stays in the consumer market is a mystery to me. Gotta build what sells. Thanks for posting Jason! Steve