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Took some time today to do some more painting. Will have to use some elbow grease to buff out the imperfections like cotton wood and a couple small bugs and do some small paint touch ups.....But I think It's ok. added a little x-tra gloss hardener to see if I could get a little more shine out of the paint...We'll see. If I have some time in the next few days I'll maybe do some more assembly work.

Alot is thought and said about "How I want to die" "I don't want to suffer...", "I wan't to die in my sleep", etc etc.. I do not care if I suffer, if I wasete away in a hospital bed for months, or if I go out quick and quiet....either way there is an end followed by a glorious beggining! All I care is that I do not go out stupid! I don't want my death to be a you tube video with comments of "Well the Dummy deserved it!" I fear that I will arrive at the pearly gates and be told ..."Nope! Bud you lived good but the way you went out just has too much bad PR!"

I was working at home pulling a engine I had sold out of a car when my BIL called, asking what I was doing, I told him, and he asked if me and my youngest son Ryan wanted full access passes to a World of outlaw cars race, I said yes, I have never been to one but have been in aw of the cars and power for years, 900hp in a car that weights 1400lbs with driver, all on dirt!! 3/8 mile track and running 110 miles a hour sideways in the corners, and this event was all the big names from around the world, including the man to me that has been king Sammy Swindell, we had pit passes so we wandered the pits my son got a few autographs, and pictures, (he took just over 200 pics) it was a good time free food all you could eat, great racing (it is the only outlaw show in MI this year) even sat with a bunch of great people in the stands, by nights end we were all Friends, but the best part was watching my son enjoy the night, but I had fun also.

Wheel Horse hood, fenders, and whats left of the dash cowl, on a narrow cub frame with a Kohler Command. I had to make the actual dash tower. About 250 hrs of work in just the body and frame.

Here is the vid of me performing a preesure test on the D200. I had mowed the entire yard with it earlier today then parked it for a few hours. The engine was still warm to the touch but the hard lines were ambient temp. [media=]

Last week we finally got my B111 unburied and running so we got a couple line up pics of our Wheel Horses My brother on the beater WH

It's finally done. Took way too long , spent way too much. loved every minute. Here's a couple of shots of her relaxing before work. Plus a surprise visitor at 6:20 this morning. KEN

im not sure on that but i think he needed new pantis after it.....

As for most of the wood was burnt as they needed to get the mess cleaned up. most was twisted and broken. The rest of the barn they plan on salvaging as much as possible.

Believe me Rooster has it right on the money. You can polish intake and exhaust ports without changing there shape to much also polish piston top and valves till you can see yourself in them. And once again Roosters right on about the pipe exhaust junk. If you have to redirect your exhaust do it with smooooth internal tubing and only with looong gentle sweeps. Makes me Ill to see 90 degree pipe fittings on an exhaust system. Those that do can just flush about 5 to 10 percent of there power down the crapper. Just a nickels worth for now, we might as well do away with penny's JIM In Texas

Almost any flathead engine can be "boosted" a bit without hurting its reliability or ease of use. It all depends on how much you want to do to it. You can make some minor internal modifications that are simple to do with simple tools. One such mod is to channel the top of the block, here is a simple example I made... This "cut-out" allows much more flow. Flathead engines suffer from a lack of flow. "Un-shrouding" the valves helps, sorry I do not have an example of that. Smoothing and minor reshaping of the intake port and valve helps. Do not get radical with anything, as over porting an engine can hurt its performance. If your willing to "compromise" the stock external look there are some gains to be made there as well. Most Kohlers need an Air filter upgrade, the stockers are restrictive. As well, the wheel horse "pipe" exhaust systems are a joke when it comes to performance! There are some minor cam mods you can make, however any time you modify the cam it will run differently, so I usually don't suggest those for "using" tractors unless I do the cam myself, lol, You want to add lift and a TAD bit of duration..but very little as adding duration will hurt your IDLE quickly!!

I had a new shed built last fall but also lost my area under the deck and the Temp garage tent thing has to go. I needed to find a space for the tractors and didn't really want to use the large amount of floor space in the shed so I came up with a plan. Put them up in the shed's loft. I bought a 110v winch, built a simple trolly and mounted up a 3" x 3" x 10 ft sq tube. They're High and Dry now!

I would say you need to get a smaller dog! LOL Or one that doesn't bake as many "pies"?

Wow, it is amazing what a strong wind can do in the right (or wrong) scenario. On the bright side... look at all that nice aged lumber! Get a cat's paw and get to stacking! Some old barn board brings a nice price by the linear foot if you have a market for it in your area.

I like the hood decals. No TORO anywhere!

A master of fabrication...and the pun! Excellent!!! :laughing-rolling:

If these are metric spindles there is a service bulletin on this condition. The sleeve between the bearings is not centered on the spindle preventing the grease from entering. Bulletin is posted here in the Files http://groups.yahoo.com/group/wheelhorsetractormanuals8/ and named WH61-90 #391 Metric Spindle Grease Lock 36in 42in 48in Includes the procedure to correct. Garry

Don't give up just yet, there's a wiring diagram for your tractor towards the end of the operator's manual here: I don't have any business speaking about safety here, since my seat switch is currently bypassed, and has been for quite some time. But I was actually able to get off my tractor once, while it was moving, with the engine running and the mower deck engaged, and it was truly frightening to think about it later. It's on my list of things to fix, in the meantime I try to not do stupid stuff like that any more, and I won't let my kids use the tractor until I replace the switch. Bottom line, just my 2 cents, as long as you're going to the trouble of redoing all the wiring, you may as well do it right and include all the safety switches.

forgot to take a picture with the hood primed but here it is painted seat and motor blower cover engine so far got the front wheels on Brian

The smart one in the group was the guy who got his kid out of there. I think that I've been to parties like this one.

LOL bowtie. I did a little research. The Servis name is part of a company called Rhino now. The mower is a CY60 (60" cut) It has one large hub under it with a blade swinging on each side. It seems like a rather stout machine. It weighs in at about 1000lbs. according to the website I found. Most it seems were made for a 3 point set up but this one goes on a drawbar. I'm thinking it is an older model before the merge of Servis and Rhino. The serial # is rather low at 2312. I can't wait to hook it up to the Massey and give it a try.

Sounds like you're raising Gabby right Scott. Pink in the house becomes red in the barn.

Which is why Kohler no longer makes the K series and from what I have read a lot of their new motors were built to a price point rather than a longevity of service point. We live in a throw away society.

Making progress. I ordered an adjustable top link instead of worrying about fabricating an OEM style top link with the right dimensions. Should make life a lot easier. I still haven't found my front brace, but I figure that I can fabricate one out of 1'8' steel with a hacksaw and a drill and some time beating it on the anvil. I'll take pics. I still haven't found the PTO shield, but I think I can live without it. I painted the tiller gearcase and started attaching parts: I still have a box of parts to attach as soon as the paint finished drying on the other pieces. For all you Valspar fans out there, I started using the new paint from TS. It seems to work well. I have to get to the store to pick up 2.5qts of 90W gear oil and fillerup once I get it upright. I hope the new seals that I put in are going to do their jobs. This thing is getting heavier by the day. The gear case wasn't light to begin with. I find that having the FEL on the D-180 is a great way to raise and lower it from the workbench to the dolly when I am through throwing parts at it for a while. Beats throwing your back out trying to lift one of these things.

I grew up within earshot of where the Lehigh Valley mainline passed under the Erie Lackawanna mainline in Waverly, NY.. but I was only 7 years old when Conrail arrived, so I mostly missed both of them..I only have vague memories of LV and EL locomotives as kid.. by the time I started taking train photos as a teenager in the 80's, Conrail was well entrenched.. but we also had D&H and Susquehanna running through town, so it was all good! I had an HO scale layout when I was a kid..then dropped out of the hobby for most of my 20's and 30's, and got back into it again with "G-scale" about 10 years ago..I also do G-gauge "Live Steam"..which is locomotive models powered by fire and water, just like the real thing.. all my model, and prototype, railroad pages are here: http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/Scottychaos/ Local railroad history (northern PA, and central and western NY) is one of my obsessions.. Both of my grandfathers, one great grandfather, and one great great grandfather worked for the LV out of Sayre PA..where I was born. Sayre, PA, about 100 years ago: Scot

Steve, it was so damn hot and muggy that day, had it been a rental suit, I would have returned it with an extra 8 lbs of weight due to the sweat water in it. It is currently at the dry cleaners getting ready for the next show at the end of this month in PA.

I love stories like that!!! That is some very cool old iron, and please keep us posted as you get them fixed up! Matt :flags-texas:

Yuk ! ... Was there a Bio Hazard Label put on the Crate ?.

I almost forgot to say, that's a beautiful commando 8 you have there!! Matt :flags-texas:

I'm sure someone will disagree with me, but unless the top of the piston is really bad, I dont touch it. 100 years ago when I was a young apprentice I was told by one of the old-timers that if I disturbed the carbon on the top of the piston, it would start to burn oil. While I am sure that this is an old wives tale, I learnt a lot from that grumpy old ba$tard, and I still do a lot of what he said. You can smear a thin ring of grease around the bore, and then raise the piston over it. It will catch a lot of the crap that would otherwise get around the rings.

Heck the backfire is the best part of running these machines, it announces to the world that the Wheel Horse is done. I make sure my puller gives a few good pops before I shut her down

After reading a lot about the brake system and how much and how many disc brakes we need I have a thought that is out of the box. Maybe the solution isn't toapply brakes to the side you want to turn but to loosen the belt drive on that side. Have the same type of lever but hooked up to an idler pulley and it raises and lowers the tension on the drive side you want to turn, it's just a thought since we keep building bigger and better brake systems, I thought maybe there could be a different way of getting the same result. Just a thought... Herb

Toggle forward 100 years....can you imagine what the guy will do when he finds these horses in the attic!!

John, Where are the pictures? I've been wanting to do this for a while now so the recent thread by Stevebo gave me the needed inspiration to "get around to it" I bought the lift from HF for $150 and did some little mods to make it work for me. Added wheels, Added some length to the lift portion, Put on some boards and made little removable ramps. I needed the ramps because the shelf needed to be 36" high to clear the steering wheels of the tractors on the bottom but the max height on the unmodified lift is only 30". Basically just roll'em on the lift, jack'er up and roll'em on the shelf. Just remove the ramps and add a piece of plywood for a work bench / motor stand or jack up another one and put stuff underneath it. Here's the unmodified pic from HF

Here's one for our Euro friends: Why do British people never sound British when they sing?