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He is a personal friend and you want to be fair which is the right thing to do. I don't think an offer of 250 is out of line, or too much. Big deal, it needs a battery, some new fuel lines and fluids changed. Any tractor out there of this age will need all of that anyway. I don't think you would come across too many of these for 100 bucks on Craigs List. Its not like you are going into this totally blind, he is a friend that you trust and he said it ran well when it was parked.

Heres the process of tearing down a hydro pump from a D. I will do my best to describe everything in detail so that anyone can handle it. I must say with Paul Frederis help we tore it down, cleaned and rebuilt it in 4 hours including tearing it down a second time because of MAJOR rust issues causing binding of the pistons. I will do this in chronological order as best as I can Step #1 Here is the pump before tear down. You need to remove the four 12 point bolts using a 3/8 12 point socket wrench in order to seperate the aluminum housing from the cast steel valve body STEP # 2 shows the bolts out and the pump housings seperated. Be ready to struggle slightly if your pump was never opened. It was necessary for us to put the aluminum part in a vice and hit the steel end with a dead blow hammer and brass punch to get it to sperate from the gasket/adhesive. You must rest the pump on its side or you will lose slippers and other items if you do it in the upright position. Upon opening it a large quantity of rust was found inside formed on the steel end suggesting water infiltration. Step #3 In this photo you can see the rusty liquid on the slippers and the general shape of them. They were scratched but the corners were square and not rounded over, which is very important Step #4In this pic Paul is trying to clean the rust off of the oil pump housing. As you can tell it was pretty rough. The 4 bolts here are 12 point also, you need to use a 5/16 12 point socket socket to remove these. this is another pic of the pump housing and the rust and bolts. Also pay attention to the orientation of the small pin location on the oil pump housing. Its on the botton of the pic and must be that way for reassembly. It is very important for reassembly that this faces the same way. Step #5 Here is the oil pump gear in the housing. You must mark this on the housing and impeller before you take it apart. Every lobe only fits its mating surface 1 way. If you screw it up the pump will bind and not pump oil to feed the cylinder, slippers and swash plate. The o-rings are the same set up as the manifold with a square backer ring and a regular o-ring on top to seal. Step #6 In this step you need to remove the charge valves. They are 5/8 standard socket. It is an O.R.B.( O Ring Boss). These were pretty tight but did come loose. Here are some close ups of the charge valve. We made a legal notebook map so we could be sure it all went back together well. one side has a spring and a ball, the other side has a small tapered shaft and spring. Later models of this pump had balls and springs in both sides. One thing to note is that occasionally you will find shims between the spring and ORB fitting. These were installed when the pumps didnt make enough pressure during testing. The shim increased tension on the spring and therefore raises the oil pressure just like it would in an oil pump for an engine. Step #7Next pics are a close up of the housing showing the accelerator valve removed. There are 2 of these. 1 on each side. They are the large straight head screwdriver tip recessed into the block. They are ORB also but damn were they tight. We needed to use an impact driver to break them loose. All thats inside is a ball and spring. Step #7Next pic is of the push valve. Remove it and check to be sure there are no gouges in the tapered area. If there are, oil will leak by and cause speed to slow and pump to overheat eventually during use. Step #8This is the inside of the aluminum housing. It shows the direction control where the swash plate sits. The can be removed if needed by removing the spring clip on the shaft where it comes through the outside of the housing on the flush side, not the long side that the direction linkage attaches. You then pull the shaft out and the swash plate resting surface will clunk into the bottom of the housing for you to pull out. The only reason to do this would be to replace a bad bearing. Step #9 Here is a close up of the swash plate during polishing. I started with 800 grit, moved to 1200 and then to the crocus cloth as the final step. DO NOT use water to lubricate the crocus cloth. it causes the adhesive to melt and the cloth to become junk. Use oil only for lube. This is a before of the swash plate showing severe rusting from the water that was inside this pump. this is after the three step polishing sequence. As you can see its a mirror now Step #10Here is the brass direction control valve plate showing scratches and oxidation. This also goes throught the 3 step process of polishing. This is the same peice after polishing Step #11 is the polishing of the slippers themselves. We made a diagram so that we could install them back in the bores they came from. After all that work we ended up with my original cylinder too rusty to be used. The slippers bound up and we had to take the pump all apart again and use a different cylinder after we got it all back together and it wouldnt budge. Step #12 is the installation of the slippers back into the cylinder. Be sure to install the slipper retainer BEFORE you install the slippers. They wont fit if you dont. Step #13 is the installation of the swash plate back into the direction control section. This pic shows it cleaned This pic is right before installation of the cylinder and slippers. Use lots of oil on both sides of the swash plate so theres no galling on start up. It will suck to do all this work and wipe it out with a dry start. Step #13 Assemble with the unit on its side. If you dont, you will lose slippers from the cylinder bore as you slide it down over the shaft and then have to start over. Once the cylinder is installed on the shaft, then flip the housing to the vertical position. Step #14 is to reinstall the charge valves, accelerator valves, springs and shims where they came from. A little grease on the springs wont hurt. It will stop them from moving and going caddywhompus when you install them in the bore above the ball at the bottom Step #15 Shows the proper orientation of the oil pump impeller in the housing. Take notice to our marks to be sure we had it right. You then reinstall the pump assembly onto the housing using the four 5/16 12 point cap screws you removed at disassembly. Again be sure the pin is at the bottom when assembling. Step #16 shows the new gasket prior to assembling both halves . I made this one the same way as the motor housing in my original resto post. Using a hammer to cut the material. Step #17 its all back together and ready to go back in my 18 Auto.

i thought i heard it a little down low in the rpm range, but maybe i was imagining it? ran it mostly up high tonight and its gone...... before it would be real noticeable around 2000 rpm and would get worse as the rpms increased. so now im happy i can now run it at 3000+ and its quiet.....

I find myself gawking at fender lines of all the models that saunter through here,wondering if the creative fellas that put these red machines together got to look back and see the flow and the flaws.

Whatever you do with it, don't slather it all over your tractor. :ychain:

I have a pair of 23x10.50 12 on my 416-8 and they fit with no issues whatsoever

Go ahead and buy it...if you later decide you made a mistake, set it in my driveway and I'll hand you 4 hundred dollar bills. .

A little green with envy here. Nice score! :thumbs:

I see your on a hydro......probably you should get under it and make sure the hydro pump isnt covered with heat insulating grass after all that work. Mike..............

I was there & it doesnt get much better then this show , the guy 's & gal's that put it on do a great job & are some of the nicest people your every meet can't wait till next year ! great job guy's Devon & his family Whc 160 mike & all the rest that help put it on !' :bow-blue:

matt forget high school you have lessons on real life you will do fine.

One of my Personal Heroes, Legend? Icon? Innovator? ...you cannot sum everything this man did for the Automotive world in anything less than a book! A few words pr even pages can not do it! Be it racing, sports cars , production, marketing...the list is forever long, This old Texas Chicken Farmer was probably the single most influential person in Automotive History! The world of the Auto would not be what it is today had we not been blessed by his life long devotin! Thank You Mr. SHelby!

Carroll Shelby will be missed BIG TIME. Growing up in the 70's a next door neighbor of mine had the most wicked black with gold stripes 68 Shelby GT 500 K.R. I was real fond of my brother's 69 SS 396 Chevelle and considered myself a Chevy man even at the tender age of 8. But when I first laid eyes on this Shelby I begged him for a ride! He finally gave in and all I can say is I will never forget that ride! His car had a 427 side oiler with two fours on it and a four speed. What an evil and wicked sounding machine. He still owns this car. I consider myself pretty lucky to have owned a 69 SS 396 Chevelle myself and a Shelby Mustang so I have crossed them off of my bucket list. Thanks for the memories Caroll.

Yeah, I know the problem. Can you hear them, too?

I have correct front wheels and a clutch drum off a 1054 if you need them...

That's no bs.I handed over a sack of mcdoubles and he snickered turned and ran!Bwahahaha

I punched some holes a couple months back. That is 5 - 8"x12"x16" 75% solid fire blocks at 75 lbs. a piece. I had no trouble pulling it, but it does pull better when I have 80 lbs. of wheel weights in each rear wheel.

ONCE AGAIN AN OUTSTANDING SHOW FOR SURE THERE LARGEST YET IN MY OPINION,WELL ORGANIZED, FULL HOUSE ON THE SHOW AND SWAP AREA AND STILL ROOM TO GROW,WELL WORTH THE DRIVE TO THIS ONE!!!!! WELL DONE MIKE whc160,Devon,and all members.....

Dang Mike, they always clean up real nice...you buy them for parts and end up looking for parts for them. What a great hobby for a collector. + = Congratulations Mike...always good to drive around with an empty trailer... :happy-jumpeveryone:

the pictures of the complete unit looks like a older C series unit and looks like you are trying to make the newer style. for the newer style 3/4 shaft if you had a quick attach rod from a mower deck laying around you could use that for ease of manufacturing. I had a guy make me one of the older style idler, but i gave him one to look off it came out pretty good eric

There's a true American icon that will live on forever. God speed Carroll.

I dunno Martin, based on what I see with the shop and tractors, I think the tapping may the foot of a significant other . I thought I heard that noise in mine too. I followed this diagnostic procedure: I asked my wife to go get me a beer - noise stopped. Wife back with a beer - tapping noise heard. I asked my wife to go get me a beer - noise stopped. Wife back with a beer - tapping noise heard. I installed a fridge in my garage . Got a wireless router and showed my wife she can play games and shop online anywhere in the house, ephasising that I can monitor all activity . May be my dumb luck, but mine stopped tapping :eusa-think:

Karl, you are a 100% correct! I really enjoy this site, it is actually one of my favorites,if not my favorite! Thanks for all the work that you do! Curious did you get that pay raise yet? I put in for it, for you. They said it would be taken care of.

Thanks for all the poisitive feedback guys. Keep the votes coming and maybe an admin will pin it for us so that it'll be here for all to benefit from. Thats why I did it. Alot of guys were nervous about tearing into one so Paul and I jumped in and now we all can see just how complicated they are. As long as you take your time amd label things its pretty straight forward. I would imagine that a hydro pump from a C is no different. They use a drive pully instead of and engine coupler and its a married system whereas the D uses a divorced system.