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Last night I picked up a nice, clean '61 Suburban not far from my house. The sheet metal is super straight, its complete with a mower deck that mows, Kohler 4hp, fully rebuilt trans and I do have the belt guard, which is equally as nice. This one immediately graduated to the "not for sale" pile.

I'm cleaning up a Charger 10...making a few changes and you know how is goes....one thing leads to another and so on. I added a hydraulic lift from a Bronco to this Charger a few months ago and a couple lines leaked at the ends. I remembered a thread by CharliesD250 a year maybe more back and started checking things out. I had a hose made a little over a year ago (the shortest one) and it cost 30 bucks thereabouts. So I got pre-made hoses online with 1/4 inch JIC swivels in lengths of 12, 18, 24, and 30 inches. I also need to get some JIC to SAE #5 ORB connectors....straight ones And elbows...4 of each... The elbows installed... I got the elbows locally because they were sold at a different site and with the shipping they would have cost over 5 bucks a piece. Well with gas I guess I spent that anyway, BUT, there is a 1/4 inch JIC elbow (m to f) that could be used on the same site I got the rest of the stuff. I'm going to try it next time. I need 3 hoses for the 160 and a couple for the D. Price for the hoses and straight adapters....52 and change shipped. Surpluscenter.com Thanks Charlie.....

Got out the B-100 for a trip around the block...the horse and I just can't believe the amount of snow we had this winter....had to show her. click on the video. :) :)

Congrats Craig on passing the 3K milestone. :thumbs:

I dunno Martin, based on what I see with the shop and tractors, I think the tapping may the foot of a significant other . I thought I heard that noise in mine too. I followed this diagnostic procedure: I asked my wife to go get me a beer - noise stopped. Wife back with a beer - tapping noise heard. I asked my wife to go get me a beer - noise stopped. Wife back with a beer - tapping noise heard. I installed a fridge in my garage . Got a wireless router and showed my wife she can play games and shop online anywhere in the house, ephasising that I can monitor all activity . May be my dumb luck, but mine stopped tapping :eusa-think:

I thought I'd hold off a day or two to congratulate you Craig.....that way I could combine 3 and 4k at the same time, go easy on the smilies too, little yellow man's arm is aching. Just kidding, more please. :thumbs:

ANd one of those was even useful! Congrats Craig!

Anyone who is restoring a tractor will undoubtedly have cloudy lens's. Since these are not road going vehicles, damage is usually limited to oxidation and minor scratches. If your lens's are only slightly cloudy or foggy , a deoxidizer such will likely clear up your troubles. Any one step lens restorer will be some type of deoxidizer/polish( Meguiars,Mothers, Blue magic,Turtle wax and many more im sure).These lens's were done with Meguiars . The tail light lens shown has some minor pitting and scratches that the camera flash and lens really show up . To the naked eye these lenses look perfectly acceptable. If your lens's have deep oxidation, scratches or pitting you will have to Wet sand and polish. just as if it was you prize paint job.There are many HEAVY DUTY lens restoration kits out there, but some wet sandpaper of different grades such as 1000,1500, 2000, 2500 etc.Then some plastic polish.Mother's,3M,Permatex, etc.Will do the job.The more time spent the better the result's. Most important part is protection. I have been using regular car wax on my plastic lens's on all my vehicles for decade's, and even after 21 years in one case ,the tail light lens's looked excellent. Until i retired the truck from bush/hunt camp duty 2 years ago (sorry no pics). KEN

Ian, it's back to where we said, to move that much oil it needs a big master cylinder and big lever. The length of pipe is irrelevant to the hydraulic function - unless the pipework expands by 50% under pressure ! Once it has oil in it doesn't matter.... Heres my simplistic maths At a guess each cylinder on the caliper is 40mm, and I reckon with disc wobble/distortion the piston will have to move approx 6mm to clamp. Thats a volume of around 8ml per pot and you have 4 pots per side - so 32ml of fluid is needed to compress the pads. Looking at your master cylinder I'd say it has a piston diameter of around 20mm and a stroke of around 50mm. Thats a displacement of 15ml - so only a half of what is required... If we say the pads are pumped up and touching the discs and barely move back and under compression the pistons move 3mm (a half of my guess) then thats 16ml needed and we are still short of reaching that. As we are at the end of the travel of the master cyclinder - but I haven't seen inside the master cylinder... I bet the inlet port is 10mm down the travel, so displacement is probably 20% less. Do you think I'm on the right lines with the sizing? or way off? Hydraulic principles are easy to work on - just the same as levers and mechanical advantage... Only with volumes and displacement. mark

The good thing is that no one was hurt. Dont worry about parts....Kelly's got parts!! Mike............

Craig and his bud. Looking for treasures.

Well I plan on telling the doctor that I got by with what I had for 65 years and now that the two of them have done the repairs I ought to be good to go until I'm 130 wouldn't you think? :ROTF:

Glad you figured it out, the problems that you had was the reason you bought it so cheap. Don't sell it, keep it for your grandchildren... buying them cheap and fixing them is what Wheel Horse users is all about. They are fun to use... So many of them have been sent to the scrap yard, but I like to hear about good ones being saved from being scrapped. Good Job!! Think about what you have learned and the next time you can share you experience with someone else.

I love pooches! My beagle Mollie is a champion lawn aerator and my lab Morgan is tops in the fertilizer industry!