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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/03/2012 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Tom and I or getting ready for the next build of my 2" heavy duty hitch. We will be building 10 and going from there. It will be slightly different then the last time as I will be using 2" angle iron on the parts that attach to the axle to save time on the build. All of the bushings will fit the original wheel horse pin, and if you have a older 6 speed or 3 speed with the brake drum that is close to the axle tube you need to tell me so I can clearance them so they don't interfere with the brake. I have the receiver tubes on order and should be here by the end of the week. steel will be ordered soon and I plan on starting to put them together the weekend of the 14th. 2-3 days for the paint to dry and all should ship out by the 21st of Jan. They will be shipped through USPS Package services parcel. and shipping prices on the last build was any ware from $13 to $20 depending on how far you live away from me. The price for the hitch will be $100.00 and a extra $7 if you don't have a dozer blade-tiller mount for the extra plates and bolts in order for it to work. They will be primed and painted Red with Restoration series IH red from TSC. In order for me to build you a hitch I will need 50% down up front before a hitch will be made for you. You can pay for it all if you like, or just 1/2, that is your choice.I do take PayPal or personal check-money order, It will take up to 5 days for the check to clear if you pay with a check and I will not ship tell it clears. I do require you to contact me by phone, or send me your phone # so I can call you as I like to have a personal touch to the great people that I am selling these too. As I mentioned in the last build, I am a single father raising a 9 year old girl buy my self and work 10 hour days, So time is limited for me to work on these projects. She comes first and WH tractors come after that. As far as I know all the guys that have bought one of these hitches are very pleased and really like them. If your interested , or have questions, please PM me and I will answer them with asap. Here is some pics of the hitches I built on the last build. http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x474/smoreau1673/?action=view&current=204.jpg
  2. 1 point
    I was at a local swap meet last weekend and picked up these 2 and a half wheel horses I had already had the RJ35 pre purchased before the swap meet but the 550 was one I just happened to come across as I was getting my RJ58 half tractor hauled out to my vehicle. The RJ35 has a clinton engine and is complete for the most part it won't take much to get it going, the 550 was a surprise to see that is was complete and original except it is missing the exhaust shield it still has the original lauson 5.5hp engine but it doesn't turn over so I think it will be getting pulled out and rebuilt most of these older nut roasters I have been getting are usually missing parts or in mid restoration when I get them so I was happy to get an unmolested one with the correct mowing deck and engine. You will notice from the pictures that the trailer is full of horses....3 wheel horse garden tractors and 2 troy bilt horse garden tillers. I also picked up some misc RJ parts, a bunch of kohler k90 and k91 engines, a k141 with tilly updraft carb, wheel horse tires/wheels, and much misc.
  3. 1 point
    YESS Neil im am http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h-LbvFckptY
  4. 1 point
    42' rear discharge i opened the new box that was sealed and a brand new banner still have to go back for an rj58 a brand new 4hp kholer and lots of tractors at some point!
  5. 1 point
    I am back on it again,hopefully I have enough time to finish the 704 in the next few days. I tried to buy another hood but didn't have much luck so I fixed/cobbled the one I have until I find a better one. Test fit before removing the rust and priming. Before photo: After photo: Without paint yet waiting to be wet sanded. I hope tomorrow I can spray this and the rear fenders. I did get to spray some color on some of the items. I was pretty pleased other than the orange peel in the belt guard. I guess I will try to color sand it out some what. I did not plan to color sand much of anything but the orange peel is pretty bad.
  6. 1 point
    Could you expound a bit for us here, as to what it's like to pick an old dealer? Pickin' a old Wheel Horse dealership ........... that's one right up my alley, I've checked out dealers from Miami, Florida to Lodi, California to Calgary, Alberta Canada. The first thing you have to do is be respectful, you might spend some money but your not a regular customer so don't waste too much of the dealer time. Show a real interest and ask about specific parts, this gets you in the door and talking about how great the Wheel Horse tractor is. Dealers like to know that you do care about the tractors, so tell them why you want the old parts ...... buying old parts just to turn right around and resell them kinda gets you a frowny face. I have always bought just the parts I can use. Dressing nicley also helps but make sure the clothes can be washed ifn's ya' get down into the dusty old parts shelf. Finding parts going back to the 1950's is not hard to find but if the dealership opened in the early 1980's don't exspect to find any 1345 or 1346 hood mounting bolts ! Know the Wheel Horse part numbers your looking for because a lot of time the small parts are kept in a sealed envelope . Wheel Horse would sell a dealership to any buisness be it a lawn and garden shop to a small hardware store, so when I travel around the country I check out local phone books and ask around. I hope you don't think I ment to thread jack this post. Wild Bill in Richmond, VA
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    :scared-ghostface: you should with out that flashlight i would of been lost you always go ready to dig!~
  9. 1 point
    Hey billyhill what is that thing sticks out in the bottom of the pict??????????? yep we realy need to find it out.. :eusa-think:
  10. 1 point
    it came down from the grape vine as you all know i work for a toro dealership that was at one time a wheel horse dealer and the (owner) my boss told me about this old dealer ways away from me. so i took a day yesterday and went up to the dealer met the owner he has taken family buisness over he was more than happy to let me dig through his whole parts room and barn full of tractos nos parts/implements nos hoods,seats,fenders,much more and i picked out what i wanted and we made a deal! I honestly looked like american pickers climbing over boxes with a flashlight digging through unsealed and unopened items! it was a great adventure.
  11. 1 point
    This is nice to see. If any consumer, (outside of someone that raises there own). Actually, Knew what was going on? You would be sick. Now, you would have to understand how this works. When you buy you're so called farm raised chicken breasts. Which, by the way." Are" farm raised, that doesn't mean mom and pop and their 2.3 kids watched them constantly. What that means is. The birds were raised on a corporate farm like Golden plumB (not to use any real name). That may have 50,000 chickens. Which may have been fed from a continuous feeder and drip waterers that give them continuous water and feed. There are lights on constantly so the birds eat and drink constantly. This way, you can bring a broiler chicken up to weight in 9 weeks. (Where I would take them to 12 to 14 weeks) These are genetically altered birds to produce meat only. They will not lay eggs. By the time they reach 12 weeks of age. They are so heavy, their legs cannot support their own weight. On corporate farms that raise cattle or hogs, it is the same way. bring them up quick and ship them. Domestic animals do not typically eat when it is dark. But, if you put lights on them, they will. Then when they are butchered,(Which I am not trying to make anyone nauseous). The meat is then injected with a water/ salt solution. Which, plumps it up. That is why your burgers and steaks and chicken and pork shrinks when you cook it. Back in the day, when mom and pop and their 2.3 kids DID actually raise them, it didn't happen like this. But , if you need to feed 3 Billion people, things have to change. This is not Political ,nor is it meant to be. I raise all my own meat. I know where they come from and I know how it is done. I am fortunate to have the resources and ability to do this. I realize, not everyone can. But, Everyone DOES have the right and wherewithall to pay attention to what they are getting. I know the corporate farms can produce it cheaper. And in quantity. But, What are you getting? Is there a trade-off? Well, yes. What we should all do is, (And I AM biased) is support you local farmers. The small farmers "ARE' the ones that can feed you and your family. Grow a garden, learn to can veggies. (It is actually fun). I did not mean to ruffle any feathers or make a political statement. And, I am officially off my soap box. If in fact I did? I apologize........ Pat
  12. 1 point
    Tommy, you are right about the oil weight affecting the temperature, but the effect is minor. The manifold that runs the length of the tractor acts as a radiator to dissipate the heat. The more oil that flow though it the more it cools. Thinner oil will flow easier and cool quicker. But again, the effect is minor and will not be really notices unless running near the limits of performance. Just thought I'd throw my two cents in the pot. James
  13. 1 point
    Hi Herb, thanks for the suggestion. I have thought about using a car master cylinder, the thing that is stopping me is the pipework. A car uses different pipes and connectors than a bike system so I would have to get some special pipes made.. At a cost! I could cobble something together using both car and bike bit's, but brakes shouldn't been bodged together.. Says a chap who is mixing front and back bike bits together Howdo Richard, I think you have hit the nail on the head (much better than hitting your finger) there with the "system fluid volume" bit. After today's "sort the brakes" session I'm getting the feeling that the master cylinders simply don't have the capacity (or push) for getting enough pressure up to push the pistons in two calipers.. Don't worry about flying spanners.. I'd only end up throwing the ones I'm using at the time, and would have to search to find them again!! But I'm sure I have some empty coffee mate tins I can chuck at you Hey Callen. I did try something very similar to what you suggest today. Rather than shim between the pads and pistons, I took the calipers away from the discs, pushed the piston fully in, and placed some nice thick spanners between the pads.. With two calipers plumbed in, despite a huge amount of bleeding I still could not stop the master cylinders from bottoming out!! So what have I been up to in the Shack today? Well most of it was spent bringing my Raider 10 out of hibernation (I can't remember if I've used it this year) to be put on grass cutting duties.. With a sharpened blades it cuts very well Of course While in the shack I could not resist having a fiddle with the brakes. Out of interest I thought I would play with the plumbing one side..Still two calipers but each one with their own master cylinder.. 20 min's later after making sure every last bubble of air was out of the systems, I had two master cylinders that no longer bottomed out!! I need to do another little test drive tomorrow with changed tire pressures, but things are looking good To me, the fact that no matter what I tried I could not stop the cylinders bottoming out with 2 calipers attached, but could with only the 1 caliper, tells me that the cylinders are not big enough to flow the fluid to 2 calipers!! So... I've just been on Fleabay and bought a couple of Honda Fireblade rear master cylinders with a whopping 5/8" bore. Hopefully they should be up to the job
  14. 1 point
    http://youtu.be/PEiFFxBqaIw
  15. 1 point
    I HAVE A WHEEL HORSE DISC HARROW THAT MEASURES 34 INCHES LONG, 12 INCHES WIDE AND HAS 8 DISCS THAT ARE 11 INCHES IN DIAMATER. I WOULD LIKE TO SELL IT. I HAVE HAD IT SINCE 1970, IT IS PROBABLY FROM THE '60'S. IT IS IN FAIR CONDITION, SOME SURFACE RUST, MOSTLY STILL PAINTED. THE CAST IRON PIECE THAT SLIDES ON THE BAR TO ADJUST THE ANGLE OF THE DISC HAS TWO BROKEN EARS THAT THE ADJUSTING RODS WOULD FIT INTO, IT CAN BE WELDED. OTHER THAN THAT , IT IS SERVICEABLE. mAKE ME A REASONABLE OFFER IF YOU ARE INTERESTED. IF YOU ARE INTERESTED,AND WOULD LIKE A FEW PICTURES, LET ME KNOW, THANKS FOR LOOKING
  16. 1 point
    Here's a couple of interesting (to me anyway) pics I took:
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