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If the swivel nut ((into the valve) is 5/8 it is ORB #5 if it is 11/16 it is ORB 6. You want 1/4" SAE100R3 hose. Many hydro shops will try to use R2 hose (more widely used) but it is for higher pressure and is too stiff to make the bends you need. Note if you need the ORB #5 some shops won't carry things that small. I buy the fittings and hose from www.discounthydraulichose.com make the hoses and take them to my local hydro shop. He crimps them for coffee and a donut.

It has good air flow across the fins. I think if I had let the primer and paint cure longer it wouldn't look so bad around the exhaust area.

It's always amazes me just how much crap is buried in the ground, on the job we make craziest discoveries everyday too. Was that tank under an existing parking lot Mike? :scratchead:

a little closer to being done...... finished the black on the seat pan, i guess its growing on me, looks better in the flesh than the pics, for some reason the pics i took today dont have the same impact as the red and matt black looks in the sun. also got the pto bearings and seals installed and on the tractor. heres some pics of the pto install and when i dragged it outside on the lawn with the steering wheel propped in position and the seat sitting on some spacers....

I have a Charger 10 with the hydrogear that does the same thing. It rolls freely regardless of the tow valve setting, but has a strong pump as well. Heck if I know. There are so many moving parts in these things, and each part has different wear from one machine to another. I would use the tow valve as recommended regardless, and enjoy the tractor. Change the fluid and filter as you should, and hope for the best. These things may outlive all of us!

I'm working on the Schnacke recoil I got with my RJ. I took it all apart to put the new wire rope in it. I had to lightly file the pawls because they were hanging up a little dues to burring preventing the pawls from engaging. It works perfectly until I bolt it onto the motor and then it jams up and wont return. As soon as I take it off it works great again. Obviously something is binding up on it but where? Thanks for any ideas.

The part number for the 857 switch is 4988. I don't know if the 7263 is a direct fit replacement, but if it is, there is another source. I know that the Cole Hersee switch is a direct replacement, and it is less expensive than Toro. Edit: I did read a post from 2010 that says the 4988 was replaced by the 7263, and it is still available. However, it is $54.00 from Toro. I'm sure it can be had for less, but not as cheap as the C/H one.

The 857 uses a 3 pole 70A ignition switch. None of the poles are grounded. One pole is Battery, one is Ignition, the other is Start. Momentarily place a heavy gauge jumper between the Battery terminal and the Start terminal. If the starter turns over normally, it is probably the switch. If not, it either bad wires, bad grounding of the starter, or worse, a bad starter. Check ground from battery to the frame, and frame to starter. If you need a switch, they are no longer available from Toro, but Cole Hersees has one. Part number is 95521-B. They run about $30.00 plus shipping.

Last one..

His tractor....

Try this