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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/21/2012 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Our one big disfunctional "D" family .... Glad I'm part of it!!! :party:
  2. 1 point
  3. 1 point
    I just had that same problem... tried ATF and gear lube 1/2 and 1/2 then ran it till warm and drained - didn't seam to do very well. Then I went and got some Diesel and mixed a qt with gear lube and did the same thing. When I drained it the second time I blew air into the dipstick hole with an air gun on the compressor - all the fluid came out. I filled it this time (straight gear lube) and have mowed twice since with no signs of water at all in the new fluid.
  4. 1 point
    Just finished ouloading the trailer. What a fantastic day it was. The weather was great. Sunny but a little cool. It was nice seeing everyone. Thanks to all who came. Saw many red square guys. Also, Someone left behind a front plow and a blower housing. Don't know what brand it is. Not wheelhorse. So if you hear of anyone missing this blade they can contact me through red square. Thanks, Ken.
  5. 1 point
    sounds good, gotta find all my parts for the 606 and find a trailer big enough to put them in. I just gotta find my cowboy hat then I'm set! :USA:
  6. 1 point
    Hay! There's nothing wrong with that little mower! They cut GREAT and turn real sharp for trimming around trees. Smaller lot sizes, these little rear engine riders are the cats meow!! Some of us don't have large lawns and thats all we need to cut the grass. They do make nice stripes in the lawn also. My dads neighbor has one and he loves it!
  7. 1 point
    Feed it lots of GASS and maybe it will grow up! :dance:
  8. 1 point
    You got a wheel Pony not a wheel horse. :razz:
  9. 1 point
    I did see your build Fireman, on the one hand I was bummed my idea wasn't as original as I thought... but then after reading, I realized you had adressed some questions I was having. Thanks for breaking ground for me. I also noticed you had asked Vinylguy to make some C-200 decals. Hopefully he will be willing to do a set for me as well. Are you kidding me Matt? If I don't take bunches of pics, the tractor porn lovers might ex-commmunicate me.
  10. 1 point
    I know it seems I'm , but If minnesota doesn't warm-up soon, I'll be on my way down with just me and my horse in a trailer .
  11. 1 point
    While the D 250 is a large unit, like the others said parts are rare along with the tractor and now more of a show than a worker. The D 160/180/200 are also large, personnely I would not use them as a daily worker as they have several issues that can lead to brakedowns and costly repairs also the parts stream is mostly used and quality of parts can be questionalble, and attachements with all the bits can be hard to find. The C195 is a larger than the rest of the C/300/400/500's but a little bit smaller than the D's. It uses a lot of C parts and some D parts but uses the D 160/180/200 attachments and some of their parts and some uniuqe to itself. A good choice if it wasn't for the attachement issues. And the C/300/400/500 series are just a newer version of your Raider 12 with the same drive train with only the 1990-97 520s with a different front axle assembly. With all that being said a good 16+hp C or 400 series hydro with the swept forward axle conversion or 1990-97 520 would be a good choice for a loader, while a sickle bar works best with a smaller 1965-2007 8 -12hp 4 or 8 speed. Also all your current attachements will work with them with little if any mods.
  12. 1 point
    Matt, IMO you will NEVER be able to lift 1000lbs with a 520 (or should never attempt to). The 520 is too light of a tractor. Figure on adding a weight box to the back to offset the weight of the loader. If you pick up 300-400 lbs that is what you can do without making it dangerous. One word of advise is to try and keep the loader as close to the front of the tractor (shorter arms) and you will be able to lift a bit more. If/when you are serious and want more info my buddy may be willing to share some information with you. He is very sharp and has fabricated several custom loaders. He tends to stay away from the 520's due to the size and overall weight. When he looks for a wheel horse to put a loader on it is a D series. I still think you should just suck it up and go buy a terramite !! :hide:
  13. 1 point
    This guy sells them. The are aftermarket but quality kits.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Master-16HP-rebuild-KIT-KOHLER-K341-M16-W-Valves-16hp-ROD-not-12hp-/120898449974?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c261bf236 If thier is anything in this kit you dont see he has just send him a message.
  14. 1 point
    I would have named it AWESOME!
  15. 1 point
    We had a conversation on the "old" Red Square site about this same issue. As I remember, there was debate as to if it was a mechanical issue bogging the engine or an electrical issue just shutting down the ignition circuit. In your instance, and in my opinion, the white smoke is the show stopper here. It is the most significant issue you currently have on the tractor and you probably should not consider mowing with it until your "bug fogger" turns back into a tractor once again. So here is what I remember as the highlights from that discussion (maybe someone can point that post or even the owner of that tractor could chime in - for the life of me I can not remember how that one was resolved). Eliminate the mechanical part of the argument by disconnecting any belts from the PTO bell. Make sure the PTO bell spins freely when the PTO lever is not engaged. Restart the engine and engage the PTO lever. With nothing to MECHANICALLY bog the engine down, the engine should continue to run. If the engine dies, I would say the issue is the ignition system being shut down. I'll take a look at the schematics for your particular tractor and get back to you later this morning. If you have the opportunity, I would have you disconnect the kill wire from the magneto, run the engine, engage he PTO and see if the engine stills runs. Yes? Then reconnect the kill wire to kill the engine. Attach the mower belt back to the PTO bell, remove the kill wire, restart the engine and engage the PTO. Still running? Yes ? Then we have a safety switch / wiring issue. I'll post later regarding additional checks.
  16. 1 point
    My C-85 does the same thing. When I engage the PTO the tractor wants to stall and I have to disengage the PTO or it will stall. It takes several attempts to get the mower engaged without it stalling. I've just learned to live with it and take my time engaging it.
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