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tractor is pretty much offically done and ready for the shows heres the pictures when i bought it from jeff coffman and after i was done! few pictures throug out the restore.

Ken B has been looking for a nice original RJ or Suburban for a few months now. He missed out on a few local tractors but not today ! I took a ride with Ken to meet up with Nate and this is what Ken came back with... Not 1 RJ but 2! One is partially restored and complete. The other is an all original early model with left over RJ35 front rims/tires and even has the original leather shifter boot ! He is probably in his garage right now tinkering with them.... He asked me to post up some pictures for him since it will be dark when he gets home. Here they are-great haul Ken !! ps- I ended up with a nice early 42 inch deck (thanks Nate)!

Its rough and dirty but shouldn't be a problem, just a little work. Needs new muffler, been welded to many times. Like I said in my earlier post rode hard put up wet! BUT was garage kept, just never cleaned up. Deck is pretty rough, I am going to spend some time this weekend and dig in to it and see what all I got. Change the oils and try to clean up a bit. I'll know more then if I will be cussing and kicking or smiling. Not too sure. PO said the 48" deck rusted through and pullies fell through so he picked up this little 36" and put on I think just to say it had a deck for the sell. If I knew it was in this shape I wouldn't have got it. Little too far of drive for me for this.

Placed 5th and 7th in the Stock Altered.

Here are a few pics of the tractors with a few more of their pieces on them. The front rims on the mostly original RJ appear to be left over RJ-35 rims. They don't appear to have ever been painted. Tonight I cleaned both sides of the rims of many yrs. of thick grease. The grease preserved them quite well. Today I got a chance to weld about a dozen holes closed on the RJ that is being restored.

the lift lever had been broke and cobbed back together so i cut the upper tube off and built a new bottom its all clamped up to be welded next piece was the gas tank you can see the remains of braze on the tank from where a square piece of sheet metal had been brazed on to hold a fill cap spout. I removed it all and cleaned it up the best I could and soldered a new cap spout back on Brian

I can assure you the Chargers make good wheelie poppers! real light in the front.

Here are some pics: One of these is of the tractor on level concrete showing grader blade at it's highest position. Another one shows the rigid lifting link in the top of the bell crank. I got easy access to this by removing the dash panel below the steering wheel. The others are the grader blade in action. I'm almost finished with the gravel, but have more to do yet. It got dark so I had to quit. Thanks! Bill

:text-worthless:

want to double your money? Jay

Found the old Raider 12 had a Flat Rear Tyre. The (original) Inner Tube must have sprung a leak, slowly deflated and strained the Valve. The original Tyre(s) had a few repaired cracks as a result of sitting for upwards of 15 years before I got my Mits on it, so I thought they may not stand up to being demounted from the Rims. Soooo, I did the usual Interweb searches and found a Pair of 'Look-a-like' substitutes for the 'Old Carlisles', A few questions to the Seller, and the correct answers came back ..... I went for them.. .. Maxxis Pro 4 ply Kevlar Belted 23" x 8.50.x 12 Turfs... and on receipt, after a quick scrub to get the dirt off, I found they still had the Paint Stripes around the circumferences and good as new !. These Retail at £127.00 each (US$ 200.). What did I pay for them?...... UK£48.00 shipped, Valved and Fitted. The Old ones came off the Rims ok and are still good for Showing (if I get the time). so I'll keep them aside with some new Inner Tubes, then look for some Rims...........I reckon that was a result !.....for a change.

Sorry if I've spooked any of you but I guess my description probably wasn't good enough as I didn't have a diagram to use. I don't know why but the Toro diags for my exact model D-200 don't include a manual PTO. I found the answer in the electric PTO diagram so didn't look any further but having looked at earlier models, they give the diagram so..... When I remove the end bolt (17) and end cap (16) the pulley assembly can be slid off the crankshaft consisting of the outer clutch assembly, double V pulley and its bearing and washers etc. On mine it all holds together as one unit so I considered it as such in my original description. The spring clip (circlip) and washer are parts 14 & 15. The clip sits in a grove in the bore of part 13 of the pulley assembly with the washer (14) behind it. Together these determine how far the pulley assembly will travel along the crank shaft before the end bolt and cap tighten. When Lonny said: I thought yep, remember looking down on mine and seeing the exact same thing. Having put a clip and washer in place they lined up. I don't know the exact thickness of washer required but I found one that did the job by trial and error. Hope this clears things up. Andy

68 charger 12 coming home on Saturday

the Ace at the bottom of my hill has tons of 30w and all the multi viscosity too. I know, since I grabbed the 30w by accident this past Winter, sometimes the "little" guys have all the good stuff.

This is why I only buy my meat from my local meat market! you get to see it before its package and its all processed in the same building and you know its fresh!! When I walk buy the meats at my local Kroger, Meijers , etc. It turns my gut seeing the funny looking meat! I will go with out before buying from a store like that again!