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Here are a few that I have of the RJ58. Last time it ran was 5 yrs ago. Brian

Think of it more as a hint. :)

I looked for a while to find the proper aux gas tank set up for the 520 but could not come across one so... I had this tank laying around so I fabricated a stand out of some 1/8 angle iron and hung it on the back. The tank came with an Economy parts tractor and had several coats of paint on it. I did not want to go crazy painting it with the IR Red because then I would have needed to do bodywork on it. Gave it a quick hand sanding then painted it with semi gloss black and a brush. I just need to buy a 1/8 barbed nipple and connect the fuel line and add gas. Now I do not have to fill up every time i mow the grass with this thirsty Onan 20hp !!

Some of you should be receiving your hats in the mail, so let's see'em. FYI: These 3 hats were samples which didn't cut it.

I picked this up sunday on an impulse buy it look to cool to pass up. I don't know if i over paid for it or not. What should something like this sell for with all the attachments. It does not have the factory motor and the one that is on it does not run. The seiral number shows that it was made between 1951-1953.

my 2012 polaris sportsman and the c-120 i think i need a bigger storage place tractor season is here, and the tractors are starting to roll in :)

A new spawn has been lured :teasing-whipyellow:

That pitting gives it character...the proof, it's a survivor. :thumbs:

I've located a 1 gig copy of the movie in MP4 format. I'm downloading it now. I'll let you know what it looks like. If it is decent I can put it on a dvd for you. You'd have to play it on your computer with VLC. You could burn it to a dvd but there would be some loss in the rendering.

Installing one of Doc's kits here.

Hi there Kpthorsefan. Have i seen that little tractor on another forum? Was trying to find some pics of a lawn ranger last week and could only find a few. Saw one with a lot of tin worm on the back end which had some really good looking fab work being done. Was it yours? I have been really fortunate with mine. There is no rot what soever. Just a bit of surface rust here and there, mainly holding the steering wheel on. That was the only thing ive struggled with so far. I tried a bearing puller to start with but that just bent the puller So i had to get brutal! Wheres my angle grinder!!! Easiest way in the end was to chop the column off so i could put it in the press. 9.5 tons before it went bang and fired it out. Most pressure ive had on the guage so far. It had to come off because you have to lift off the dash/ rear fender to get at the back of the ignition swtch and the wiring and the steering column bushes which needed replacing. Glad the body work is fibreglass as that will never rot. Its nice to see another one though as they dont seem too popular. I think it is a really neat little tractor and very compact. It would be nice to see a few more pics if anybody has any. Cheers.

Try this link.

A few more..... What would this RJ58 be worth in this condition??

i have said before in some of my posts that i work for a company that does powder coating. we are a mass surface finishing company, which means we deal in many types of surface finishing on mostly metals, both ferrous and non ferrous. i mainly deal with powder coating, being the paint coordinator i oversee all 5 paint lines we have. i snapped a bunch of pics of our equipment, paint lines and some of the product we paint. vibratory area.... we have about 13 different bowl and straight machines, various sizes. wash area.... cab washer..... pass thru washers..... blasting area...... wheelabrator machines, blast rooms and blast cabinets..... jmb conveyor blast machine...... burn ovens.... and paint lines....... manual/auto paint line, our largest.... approx 700 ft long. 5 stage wash system.... end of wash system and primer booth... primer booth and low temp oven. also a skid of 50 lbs boxes of paint in the foreground. with all the paint lines running 3 shifts, we go through this amount of paint in a couple days..... pairts going into main paint booth. this is used both as a manual booth with one gun and auto line running 4 fixed guns. parts exiting booth and heading to cure oven other auto line is down at the moment...... washer and oven... inside manual/auto booth... auto gun controllers... manual batch booths and ovens...... we have 3 other lines running as well. these are smaller qty runs, first line is our heavy part line. we run up to 20 ft long and 500 lbs parts through here... 2 other smaller part lines, one for larger quantities and one for all the odd ball stuff...... some of the parts we process in the paint areas...... axle spacers..... column parts for some of the big john deere combines, these get painted brown.... new auger job, these are 20 ft long... some parts for road works electronic signs you see on the road side, these get done orange...... big industrial sweeper frames.... and the body parts for the sweepers... wheel hubs.... hope you guys enjoyed the tour......... :thumbs:

When I was looking for a Tupperware gun to replace my 1911's CC service.... I held and shot the H&K as well as the Glock. I went with the Glock. For a whole host of reasons that are not relavent to this conversation. I think the statement that the H&K is the be all, end all is not true. I'm not even going to speculate which pistol is better, thats for an each person to decide. But... with the technology used to manufacture these weapons currently the playing field has really tighten up. With the proper practice and training... a H&K, Glock, S&W M&P or 1911 are all just as acurate. IMO a CC weapen really comes down to size, weight, capacity, caliber and comfort.... not the make and model. Some may rule out the 1911 right off the bat on the basis of "cocked and locked". Heck, a 357 snub nose with the correct presentation to the target is probably the most effective in take down power, even compared to the 45. All I'm trying to say is there are a lot of thing to consider. Mike, I don't beleive I'm recognized in PA...... :angry-nono:

I'm with Vin and if its about competition its the guy holding the gun.... not the gun itself. If I had the $$$ I would go get a full comp Kimber 1911 and wouldn't be afaraid of trying to beat up on some Tupperware. LOL.... The Springfield XD45 is in there fighting too (although it peeved me off when I found out its not USA made....) Tony

I like the use of the wire coat hangers.....don't fret with the pitting.....something has to give it's age away....kind of like wrinkles on a person...lol

I think we're both getting there step by step Jeff. Another couple of weeks seemed to have rushed by and it's been a bit slow doing all those little things that you put off till later knowing they're going to be tedious. Despite the tractor's overall size, it's still difficult to get to lots of places to put bolts in and tighten them up. It doesn't help that I have large hands with stumpy fingers which are fine for doing the major physical tasks but not so good for the delicate things but the aim was to reach a stage where I could get it out of the workshop to do the finishing off over the coming weeks out in the sun and fresh air. The low back seat is a bit minimalist for a D but the original had more tape than vinyl and as I had this one that's in vgc I decided to use it for now. The color difference beween the engine and panels is simply due to the dust that's accumulated depsite being covered most of the time. I was determined to get it out of the shop this weekend but refilling the transmission took a while. The filler isn't exactly in an easy location and having completely emptied the system there were 6 quarts (5.7 litres) to put back in. Thought I'd manage to get say 4.5 litres in before running up the engine but no - it overflowed and made a mess!!! Having mopped up the spill which wasn't too bad an air pocket cleared bringing more oil up and out of the filler. So mopped this spill up then fitted the gas tank only to take it out again realising that the rear lights and wiring have to be done first. Decided to tow it outside rather than start it in the shop which was a good thing as the electric fuel pump decided to leak where sealing washers had dried out over the winter it was one of those days. Replacing them with O rings did the trick. The control housing and hood still need painting but it was good to see it back together again and an opportunity to straighten a few bits out on the hood to ensure it opens and closes without fouling on anything. The engine fired up on the first turn but it took a while for the hydraulic system to purge itself of air. The gas tank cap is a temporary measure - I have the original but it's well and truly passed its best. Does anyone out there know of a source for a suitable replacement? I really must get round to sorting out the means by which the front wheels are retained. The square 'washers' are another example of the PO's ingenuity but how the correct washers were lost from both sides can only be guessed at. There were no leaks on the hydraulics and both the mid lift and point hitch worked correctly with the replacement control valves though a little noisy until all of the air had been purged by which time the oil needed topping up again by now as it was below the dipstick. The link pins arrived during the week so in an effort to avoid forgetting where I've put them they're on the hitch for now which made me realise that when the D was designed nobody considered that you need a little 'toolbox' somewhere to keep linch pins etc in. That's about it for now - need to sort out the wiring and reinstate the safety switch system which has been stripped out at some point in the past. I'll continue to keep you posted. Andy

I wouldn't spray it with water. The 500 series Wheelhorses used pretty thin wire connectors and smaller than it should have been gauge wires on their harnesses. Water and moisture are the enemy of the 400 & 500 series tractor's electrical systems. Keep them dry! I have a small 20 gallon compressor and I regularly blow out the fins after a few mowings on my 520 and 416 which are each powered by Onans. Truth be told, you should actually do this with any tractor no matter what it's powered by. The P series Onan in the Wheelhorse 400 and 500 series have the oil filter sitting within the tin that directs the air from the flywheel over the rear cylinder head. This obstruction and the added heat of the hot oil within the filter has been pretty much documented into contributing to rear-cylinder valve seat failures on these engines. As everyone who has chimed in said, you need to perform maintenance regularly on these engines to keep grass, leaves, etc from getting into the fins of the motor. Regular oil changes, using synthetic oils and doing a few "mods" like cutting an "air opening" into the belt guard by the rear head and/or installing a remote oil filter on the engine can help keep the rear cylinder running cooler. Don't "over-work" the tractor! Keep the blades sharp! Make sure the spindles, pulleys, mule drive, etc are all lubed and are not tight. Don't cut super high grass in high gears! The list can go on but you get the point. The Onan is a smoother and more powerful engine than any "twin-cylinder" tractor engine I have ever owned and I have owned quite a few twin Kohlers and Briggs. They are expensive to fix due to their parts from Cummings. They do suck more fuel than similar HP Kohlers and Briggs. They are a bit more "complex" in their design and they can be a little tempermental but they are a good engine! Take care of it and it will take care of your lawn and garden! Good Luck!

Onan takes a lot of crap on this site.What is there several thousand members on here? Onan sold millions of engines,so all the bad mouthing is in fact a very small percent of the engines out there.I have seen Onan engines with 3000 hours on them and never so much as had the heads removed in that time. At one time Toro,John Deere,Ingersoll,Cub Cadet,Sears all used them,not to mention Onan Generators was top seller for many years,would still be if the EPA didn't force them out of the US. I have seen many 520's with over 1500 hours on them.Have a JD right now with 1800 on it,and I mow 3 acres every week with it. Just my rant for the day!!!