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I like my Super c's I have a nice pair out back, and another set in the house B)

Double "D" in each hand :)

Picked her up Friday, Now I'm done spending money, 1 each for my sons, 1 for my grandson, 1 for me..

Today I bought the coolest, beast of a garden tractor. It's a Kubota B6000 with a 2 cylinder diesel, 4 wheel drive, hydro 3-point, front and rear PTO, individual foot brakes, 44" belly mower and 48" rear knife mower. This thing is crazy cool. It's a touch smaller than my Power King was, but this thing put my 4x8 trailer to the test. It weighs a ton. The steering is super tight, it runs awesome, no leaks, hydro works mint, it has both hand and foot throttle too. My original plan was to buy it and flip it, but its so damn cool and such a powerhouse that I can't see why I would. I haven't been this stoked for a purchase in a long time.

Hi Guys- You know me I think-normally really laid back (except in the fall, when it gets cool, and I hear crowd noises lol)- But I'm totally ticked about this "Pink Slime" revelation that has been brought to light recently. I think of myself as a careful , informed consumer. Thats why I can't believe I've been feeding myself and my grandkids this ammonia gased by product under the disguise of "Lean thin beef"etc. Not only from the fast food places-but when I buy from Kroger and other stores. I trusted the labels-fat content- as far as how lean the beef was to judge its quality-not knowing that some bunch of idiots in the FDA have decided to not inform me as to what they were approving now to be added to our ground beef. This stuff used to be deemed unfit for human consumption-in a simpler world-used for pet foods. But now-because some genius figured out a way to treat it with ammonia gas to kill E. Coli and other bugs it contains-it was given the green light to be put in our food. Bad as this was-I think what was worse-is we were not informed of it. I don't know about you-but I don't like someone experimenting on myself or my family. I need to calm down- Anybody else upset?-Al

Well it's taken me 4 months but I finally got my WH looking better. I just have to paint the wheels and get this frustrating 48" mowing deck to level side to side. All new paint and fantastic new decals from VinylGuy! OK, I'm not mucch of a painter so please go easy. Old Pics: Working on the deck: Dash Console duded up: My wife thinks it looks good enough to keep now. I guess she just couldn't show much love to the old look,

One thing about the Tecumseh. It is probably an HH100. If it has the electronic ignition, you may have a problem. I don't think you can get any of these parts. I've been told you can convert them over to points and condenser, but it may require a new flywheel - can't remember. I think 300 is a bit much for this tractor. Does it have a mowing deck? I would offer maybe $100 but really, look for something else. FWIW - I recently bought another color tractor for $200 and have more in parts now than the purchase of the tractor. I'm beginning to thing I might should have passed on that one. Good luck, Bill

Nice Find!! I just finished rebiulding my 1952 9FB briggs, if you have a hard time finding any parts for them, just PM me, I have found some great places for parts for vintage briggs. Here are some pics of my 9FB. Matt :flags-texas:

Some damn good sense ya'll are making.The weirest thing though,I turned the light switch on and the rear warning light came on.the fuel pump goes direct to battery via remote on/off switch.key does nothing.jump ignition with screwdriver and not even a spark.cigarette lighter works.Its like a sign from above I guess.No visible broken wires.Battery has juice.I pride myself on getting anything running but I would need to grab it by the mane and drag it back to the rapin hole(garage)

Did you just say the STD made him go limp? :ROTF:

"I shouldn't but its a lot like a hot chick you know has an STD,you know you still wanna hit it in the parking lot!" Well that is one analogy to buying atractor I can't ever say I've heard.... As far as the Tecumseh... the electric pump is because the mechanical one is NLA and IMPOSSIBLE to find.... If it has electronic ignition thats more NLA parts and I hate to say it but the Tecumsehs can be a nightmare and definietly don't bring money on re-sale. Tractor is worth $100 MAYBE...... say you throw a good used Kohler on the tractor because its clean only to find out the 40 year old hydro goes limp when it gets hot. I would pass on this one. Tony "

they are nice tractors but if the tecumseh has no spark they are very expensive to fix and if hydro is bad its worth nothing tell him you will give him 200 snd give him your number he might call i have had people call me doing this o

Don't be like me. Make your final offer, leave your number, and keep steppin', Wish I could follow my own advise.

68 would have floorboards on a charger or raider, not on a commando, jay

i agree with sparky,walk away and call it a good day

I wouldnt bother with it. Your gut is telling you its not a great deal and your gut is right. An unknown hydro, a tecumseh motor thats not running, modifications that you dont like, and three hour drive (six hour round trip). What are you driving to see it? A gas guzzlin truck? If you figure in gas plus the cost of the tractor you most likely could never make yer money back if one of the major parts (motor-tranny) is shot. Dont make a panic buy that you'll regret, wait for a nice machine to come up for sale closer to you. But thats just me. Mike.............

Another two weeks have passed so it’s update time I guess. The weather’s been getting warmer, the sun shining and the grass growing so there’s ever more work to be done outside and I’m lucky to find a couple of hours each day at the moment to work on the project. Anyway, with the fluid drained out it was time to change the axle seals and swap out the lift valve unit. The lever mechanism for the three-point had been broken off so the ever resourceful previous owner had simply swapped the plumbing over to use the remaining good mid hitch lift valve for the rear three-point. I had to get the replacement shipped from the US, the most expensive single item for the resto so far. Not exactly the easiest space to work in given that two spanners were required but got there in the end. Turned my attention next to sorting out the turning brakes which had also undergone ‘owner adaption’. I’m not sure who bought this guy a welder for Christmas but it was used as a blunt multi-purpose service tool in an attempt to sort out most ailments on the tractor! On each side of the tractor a piece of angle had been added to force the caliper out of true to the disc. I must assume this was done in an attempt to get more braking force rather than investigating why the brakes were not performing as well as they should. Typical! Anyway, decided to put things back to how they should be and have a go at relining the brakes which turned out to be easier than I’d imagined. The ‘high strength’ lining material used was the same as previously fitted and has brass wire woven into it forming a sort of visible hexagon pattern. Each pad was 3/16ths x 1.5†x 4 inch but having been cut from a roll needed flattening out first. Who says guys don’t do baking? A couple of minutes in the oven at 150 C and they become pliable. They were then clamped between a couple of blocks of wood in a vice to cool down ending up not quite perfectly flat but good enough for bonding to the metal plates. Removing the old linings was far easier than anticipated and after experimenting with the first one I managed to get the others off in one go using a wood chisel with its bevelled edge down against the metal plate. Having cleaned and degreased the metal the new linings were bonded using two pack rapid setting epoxy (Araldite). Given the limited working time once the adhesive is mixed I did them two at a time and left them clamped face to face in a vice for an hour before removing them and doing the second pair. After giving them a further hour or so to harden any excess lining protruding beyond the metal plate was removed using a rasp type file. The metal plates were painted and left overnight to dry. Two things are perhaps worth mentioning at this point. Firstly, for total authenticity the metal plates should actually be red not black and secondly the OEM pads were contoured to the shape of the disc. Thanks to Jeff (hodge71) for pointing this out – he’s restoring an ‘18’ at present. See: The reason for this becomes apparent looking at the part worn pad I removed. As the pad wears a ridge will form where it doesn’t make contact with the disc. This wouldn’t normally be a problem except that the discs on the tractor are much thinner than is typical for an automobile. So as the pads wear down there will come a point where the ridges on opposing pads will touch and they will no longer be able to apply pressure to the disc. My initial thought was to machine off the unused area of the linings but in reality the pads will be getting on for half worn by the time the problem occurs and it will be easier and less time consuming to take the pads out and file off the ridge at that point rather than removing it now. What I won’t be doing is welding in bits of angle iron in an attempt to make them continue to work !!!! The next stage was to use the rasp type file again to make sure that the surfaces of the linings were flat Having flattened the surfaces of both pads a first fit was tried but with the calliper assembled the gap between the two pads was too small and more filing was needed until the assembly with pads slid over the disc. It then took a while to work out how to set up the brake assembly so that the pads didn’t bind on the disc in either direction of rotation. This involved slackening off the long bolts that secure the assembly to the axle casing and then tightening them while the calliper was held firmly (and squarely) against the disk to ensure that the calliper was parallel to the disc. If it’s just a fraction out of true then the brake will tend to bind in one or other direction of rotation. All easy to say but it took me ages to work out the reason it was binding despite being initially free to turn. So finally that was one side done – the second side went faster but there was still much patient filing to ensure a good fit. I found a quicker route to goal this time was to file each pad till it just slipped between the mounting bracket and disc. So that’s about it for now. I’ve ordered some Cat 0 pins ready for making an ‘A’ frame for the three-point hitch, picked up a pack of ten plastic knobs for a song on flea-bay which I’m hoping will look okay on the implement lift valve arms, oh and thanks to Tim (Tap53) I now have the diagrams and dimensions to make a ‘mule’ so that I’ll be able to mount a cutting deck at some point in the future. Still lots of work to do on the tractor though first. Andy

I have been very lucky buying non-running/ non moving hydros, so I would be willing to take the chance. Hope the release valve works.

check it for spark , if it has spark offer $250 , no spark $150 , you can sell the plow & deck & part the rest. good luck jay

:USA: Well they are in there. 3 tractors and a 5.5 cart also a Ez-UP 6x12 it took me a few hours but there in there. 2 show tractors and my show putter. Hope you enjoy the picks. this was the way it was set up in 2010. Take Care All see u all in the spring shows Gary B,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Diehards are made by DEKA just my 2 cents

Back from the trip, I had this looking at me the whole time - Glenn was a really nice guy, I had to give him something for getting a free tractor so I took him some Pepsi and some locally brewed beer. He said the tractor has been in his family for about 13 years, but he's only had it a year. Its a C125 Automatic with hydraulic lift, he said the lift leaks and the attachment will drop but it started right up and I drove it around and loaded it right into the truck. I'm still not sure what my plan is with this one, but I'm sure I'll figure it out someday. btw - One of these days, my trucks gonna roll the odometer. This is where I was at on the trip. More pics to come after its all unloaded.

I wonder if I can get a set of " Super C" adapters for my pair of "B's" ??? :eusa-think:

Matt, the double C's are parked in the garage. My pair of B's wont let me keep the double C's in the house. :naughty:

I really starting to feel like less of a man here, since I only have one B to play with. Matt :flags-texas:

[quote n ame='amcrules00' timestamp='1332593959' post='282463'] Geeze, and I though having double D's was good. Congratulations on your score.

"Now I'm done spending money" Good luck with that....

Geeze, and I though having double D's was good. Congratulations on your score. :thumbs:

Even at that speed, way better than a shovel!

it might be outdated, but i stood around talking on the phone while it dug a trench, sounds way better then a shovel to me :)

Finally got those pics for everyone. Not perfect but a great candidate for restoration as it is all here right down to the deck I think.

Awesome find, really like the sign! Matt :flags-texas:

The hood is finally fixed, I had the front tires foam filled (adding 44 lbs) and I put 20 lbs of lead in a modified mule drive box I made. This should keep the nose down when loading into the truck. I'm ready to start tilling for the spring. By the way, big time kudos to Vinylguy for the decals. They look awesome. I'll get some better (in focus) pics once the weather gets a little nicer.

i think a good washing and waxing and it will look brand new

How hot is that...the Holy Grail. :text-coolphotos:

If something appears too good to be true, it usually is.

The best and easiest way is to remove them is with a hammer and punch. If ya hit em just right they will pop right out.

that was me vincent steyfkens

So you figured out the auto fluid change ok? Sorry if I sounded like a wise a$$, I'm an awful kidder . I don't see much of a problem with runnin the other tractor without the pto pulley off, but why are you taking it off? The only concern I would have is that you don't want the collar and crankshaft underneath it to get all rusted up [ it would make removal of the crank pulley harder if you ever need to do it ] you could coat it with a heavey grease temporarily till you fix whatevers wrong with the pto pulley . Good luck Oh, and that Raiders nice :banana:

Having an imaginary race with my nephew.