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Well it's taken me 4 months but I finally got my WH looking better. I just have to paint the wheels and get this frustrating 48" mowing deck to level side to side. All new paint and fantastic new decals from VinylGuy! OK, I'm not mucch of a painter so please go easy. Old Pics: Working on the deck: Dash Console duded up: My wife thinks it looks good enough to keep now. I guess she just couldn't show much love to the old look,

Got a good deal on this very nice 1980's 310-8 Speed last weekend. I traded my 1978 C121 8 Speed for it even up. I kept my mower deck. Looks like it will fit on this newer style machine. Hey the black hoods are taking over! Well, not yet.

Keith - If ya can hold your horses a little while longer i might have a switch for ya! I did'nt want to let the cat out of the bag, BUT i 'm in the middle of reproducing the original kill switch. Its to original specks and is solid brass. its taken awaile to get the first 12 to geither but should be easier after i get all the bugs worked out . hopfully post pics in the next month or so. so stay tuned to this channel.

hello I would like to know how my sickle bar must put before mowing Who can help me with images I know normal is this sickle bar under a d series but the factory in belgium here has special papers designed to the c series to be driven

I worked on my early production RJ35 today. Removed the NOS Schnacke recoil starter that didn't grip anything when you pulled on the handle. It was cleaned up on the inside and reinstalled and works as it should. The little Kohler has alot of compression! I hope it will run. I cleaned and reinstalled the rear hitch assembly. Remounted the original front tires and rims. They haven't been mounted in 5 or 6 years! Definetly gives it an old look now. I used four old bolts to mount the engine to keep it looking old school. Does anybody have one of these old style kill switches that match my holes in the back of the hood? I'd like to buy one if you have one available? Thanks...Keith

HI--I am what you would call a Junior Varsity hunter----I like to walk around and hope to bump into something bigger than the average to take as a trophy. Don't put too much effort into chasing stuff just to shoot it. I do like to shoot and recently bought one of my "bucket list" guns.... My uncle shoots competively and we are going to jointly develope less punuishing rounds for it.... I love Winchesters as much as Wheel Horses and have a real addiction to anything with a lever ---BUT--- I just HAD to buy a Winchester Model 70 in .458 Winchester Magnum,,,, I won't ever be going to Africa but with some light 45/70 type loads with 300--350 grain slugs it will show a deer whose boss. I found this baby online and as NOS... its a 2004 and was made about an hour away in New Haven CT---any Winchester I buy HAS to be made in New Haven.... yah maybe its a dumb thing but thats just the way it has to be for me. Heres a pic...... If you ever have a school Bus that needs to be put down gimme a call. This gun will take care of it!!! LOL.... I do also have the neccesary assortment of AR15's, AK47's and other military types... Tony

:ROTF:

I think it looks great there ,when your done with the whole tractor,hang it from the ceiling and see what she does Jake

Thought you guys might like these pics, I took advantage of my wife being out of the house for a few minutes, and took these pics. Notice the grin on my son Danny's face as the engine to his tractor sits on the dinning room table. I hope my wife does'nt see these. My son will not leave me alone about this tractor, its all he can think, or talk about. Like father like son. Matt :flags-texas:

My ears are ringing right now Craig. Matt :flags-texas:

Much depends on what type of carburetor you have, but the basics are to remove the high speed and idle needle valves, the bowl, float, and float valve. A carburetor kit generally only contains a bowl gasket, float valve and seat. After removing those items, soak everything in a can of carburetor cleaner for about 24 hours. Blow everything out with compressed air. If your carburetor has a long needle valve, it probably has tiny little holes in it, and it is hollow. That tube needs to be clean inside and out. After cleaning, reassemble and adjust according to your engine service manual. Look for a throttle shaft with a lot of play in it. That can cause problems. Kits are available for many carburetors to repair that problem.

It's only money and I'm making more every minute. I'll be there again.

Nice score. Both of 'em should clean up nicely. :thumbs:

I personally watched ths project and "Bromance".....LOL between Lars and Rooster blossom!!!!! It does my heart proud to see that 2 people with a common interest get together on a single project and see it through to completition. Lots of people can talk about how they want to do something and if the opportunity arrizes they may act on it. However this was not a simple endevor and it took alot of work on poth parties to make it happen. This is really a story that should be retold many times as a rembrence to why we are all on this forum, To help our fellow Wheel Horse Brothers and sisters!!!!!! Congrats to both of you on seeing this project to its completition!!!!!!!!!!! I am proud to call you Friends!!!!! (disclaimer).......Bromance is in no way an insult to Lars and Rooster...I coined this term to explain their friendship and is in no way a refrence to their sexual prefrences.......LOL!!!!!!!!!!!

Well, I thought I would give a quick update on my progress. I just found a carburetor with oil bath air filter on and bought it for $8 Thats good since I could not find mine. My .020 piston, rings, gaskets, seals, and valves should be here tomorrow, I already got my new rod. As soon as I get my parts tomorrow, I will drop my block off at the machine shop to be bored, and have the valve seats machined. I have already cleaned and painted most of the components for the engine. I also got the clutch back in working order, which is a miracle since it was froze solid with rust. PB blaster and a little heat with the torch. I also have figured out it is a 1952 model with the help of Daryel at panzerbantam.com who explained how to read the serial no.. My no. is 952378. The 9 is for the 9FB briggs, the 52 is for 1952, and the 378 is for the 378th model made that year. Here are a few pics of the progress made. Matt :flags-texas: