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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/20/2012 in Posts
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3 pointsYou were riding in a lifted Dodge pickup with no muffler, up US127 between Jackson and Lansing, Mi this morning between 7:30 and 7:50. You were modified Wheel Horse round hood maybe a 704?? you had wide aggs on the back and some sort of handle bar behind you, your hood was laying to the side and you appeared to be missing your engine. The person you were riding with obviously had no concern for your safety as he we swerving and driving recklessly fast, would not let anyone pass him. I was driving a gold Pontiac Montana, I tried to catch you and help you in your time of need but alas this would have made me late for work and I had to let you go. I hope you were on your way to a loving home an not to the great scrap pile in the sky, or worse yet to be a part source for others. I would love to save you from a life unknown and restore you to your former glory, please email me and I will be your loving restorer. Sincerely, Lonely on the way to work p.s. If you were the driver I'm just kidding don't mean to offend.... :ychain:
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2 pointsAfter a few long weeks of hell at work I finally had an opportunity to let some out of the stable for some fresh air and sunshine. Even had momma and our daughter out helping with the yard work.
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1 point:coffee: The winter beans I grow as green cover in the garden got the 'chop' tonight, so I tried my hand at a short video. Listen out for the diesel,..... have sympathy for the driver,......green greasy crop + grade + turf tyres = poor traction, well that's my excuse. =
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1 pointPicked up a Magnum 16 as a replacement for my C105. Magnum was out of a 416-8. The Magnum has a 5 wire connector on it, but only 4 wires. 2 red for the oil sensor switch and a white and purple from the stator??? So is my thinking right on what I need to hook up. White and purple go to the rectifier. Don't need to worry about the oil sensor. The center post on the rectifier goes to the switch??. Do I need to connect anything else? Just snip the black wire that went to the coil? Will the existing switch work okay. Do I need to get anything else from the 416 before the PO scraps the remaining pices. Thanks for any help.
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1 pointGot my Issue of LAGTC last night and opened it up to see a Stainless RJ! Great write up! Congrats Buckrancher!
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1 pointWhen I picked up this sickle bar it was frozen solid. After using Stevebo's recomendation on freeing up the gear box its up and functioning. Thanks Steve. Tracked down the owners manual from a local dealer put a new belt on it and now is ready to go.
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1 pointi sure would love to have a sicle bar mower, well someday anyway. nice outfit im green with envy jay
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1 pointSave_Old_Iron Thank you. That's exactly what I needed. It all makes sense now. Boy do I feel stupid. I'm so use to working on the K series Kohlers with points where the regulator/rectifier is mounted below the battery, I didn't take notice on the M series it's on the motor. As you said. A picture is worth a thousand words. Picked up the ignition switch today. Thanks again.
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1 pointHeck no! It's yours, so rub it all you want! That just sounds all kinds of wrong... :ychain:
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1 pointHunted when I was in my late teens and early twenties, but as much as I loved getting out in the woods, my heart just wasn't in it. I do still like to shoot though. These days I enjoy occasionally getting out there and shooting at sporting clays (I occasionally hit one) with my Browning Sweet 16.
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1 pointI had two, sold one and kept one. I have a 63 now, and is a neat little tractor. Has the round hood like the big brothers, and the rounded rear fenders as well. Only issue I had with it is if the mower deck is on, there is no foot peg on the right side, the belt for the deck is in the way. The other thing was the turning radius. It is horrible. Couldn't even turn it around in a rather large driveway. I had a 67, like what you have. Great little tractor as well. These have much better steering, and look just like the bigger tractors, just scaled down. Also the right peg is bent to clear the belt. I ended up selling this one, but not before I swapped frames. So now the 63 still looks like a 63, but has the tighter steering and the bend in the right side peg to clear the mower belt. They are small, so easy to maneuver, can get under tree limbs easier, and if it gets stuck or something, lite enough to practically pick it up and move it. Usually when people see it, they ask if it's a real tractor or a kid's toy.... This is actually a lawn ranger, just has "big boy" shoes on it.
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1 pointDid a little customizing, did ya? Good looking Horse.
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1 pointDon, the white wire will be the magneto kill - this wire will travel up to the ignition switch and be connected to the "M" terminal on a magneto based ignition switch. DO NOT CONNECT THE KILL WIRE TO 12 VOLTS - DO NOT CONNECT THE KILL WIRE TO THE "I" (letter i) terminal of a coil based ignition switch. You may need to call the PO and grab the magneto type ignition switch from the old tractor. The purple wire in the connector is the B+ / 14.5 volts from the regulator rectifier unit. The wiring harness for the RR comes out the front side of the Kohler M near the carb area. You should have 2 white wires (stator windings) connected to the outer AC terminals of the RR unit. The B+ terminal with the purple wire (usually the center terminal marked B+) travels behind the flywheel and ends at the 5 pin connector you mentioned. The B+ wire should end up on the "R" terminal of the ignition switch. In the spirit of "one picture worth a thousand words"... (click on image to enlarge)
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1 pointThose headlight covers are a hoot!!! Looks like you got yourself a good little tractor.
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1 pointIt's been said a million times before, it's only worth what you're willing to pay for it. That said...did you get it? :chores-mop:
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1 pointI have a gt 14 with three pt hitch. I have a front end loader on it and love it. You can put a 48" mower, tiller or snow blade. rear blade plow, disc cultivators on it. If you added the front tach matic hitch on front you could use a snow blower too. I don't know what else you would want for it. I like the bigger tires also. It is just a beast of a tractor and looks good too. It is definatly a heavy built machine.
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1 pointWell if the paint was done at a bodyshop I'm sure it was not cheap, 701's bring a fair price in good shape, not restored, I paided $400 for one of mine and it needs restored, but in good running condition, That one looks to have about $300 in new tires on it, me I would say it's probably worth near what he is asking. I built this tractor for my daughter this summer, I did not rebuild the engine it ran very good, I put new gaskets in it, the rest of the tractor was all gone over, I did all the work, I didn't keep track of every penny spent, but it's in the ball park of $1200 with new tires, paint, new bolts, powder coating, decals, cables, batt., seals, gaskets, ect........ add up everything needed to restore/rebuild a tractor, it adds up fast.
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1 pointHere some more pics guys! I installed the throttle linkage and applied the starter motor decals I bought from Mark (meadowfield). They look great!