Leaderboard

Voila!! I did what Mike (Sorekiwi) suggested first: check the spark; it had spark, so I thought - spark, OK, then it needs GAS. So, I took the gas line off the carb side of the fuel pump and gas poured out and apparently had been airlocked. I re-attached the fuel line to the carb. I climbed aboard, and the engine took right off and runs awesome smooth and strong - BOO-YAH!! I have my C160 back, now to start on the tiller and then the C-160 hydro (needs head gasket for starters), and then my B-80, and then the 520-H. Thanks to all for the great tips and advice - it worked and I'm a happy guy. Steve

I have been working a bit on the cobbled together 416-8. I think the blackhood tower and hood makes a much more comfortable and reliable steering platform, the front axle is off a Toro 314-8 with adjustable tie rod arms and the comfort grip steering wheel is just begging to be added to the mix. I removed the snow blade and hooked up the Ford tiller. I ordered a few parts for the lift lever but made my own cable. I took two yoke ends, some garage door ferrels, and a piece of 1/8 galvanized cable to make the lift cable. First was to get an estimate for the cable length, about 18 inches and then crush the ferrel on the cable I heated the yoke and added solder to help keep the cable in place I then slipped on the yoke, the cable tube from the tractor, the other yoke and then crushed the ferrel on the other end and applied heat and solder to get the finished cable. Cost less than $15 I still have to get the correct size belt and add the tension spring to the mid idler but here is the tractor almost ready to go. I had to add front wheel weights after the wheelie in the front yard that was nearly uncontrollable. Its time to get the Jinma weight bracket made...

Lock nut: http://tewarehouse.com/7-03695 http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Conduit-Locknut-5XC32?Pid=search You can also find them (conduit lock nuts) at Lowe's, The Home Depot, ACE, etc. , just make sure they are steel.

Try removing one (or both) of the fender bracket bolts next time:

here you go !

Do you mean just turn the filter around? The oil filler thingy is the real pain, it just get's in the way of any filter I try to fit on top of the engine. I could trim the oil filler down a bit, but it would mean I would have to remove the air cleaner to top up the oil!! Not ideal!! I quite like Rex's Tractor style air cleaner idea, but it all depends on one thing.. Airflow.. The M20 engine came from the factory with a "sealed" air cleaner only being force fed air by the cooling fan through this hole on top of the front cover.. The carb is "fixed" so you can't change the mixture and I guess is designed to run right with the amount of air that's "forced" into it.. So my question is, will the engine run ok just sucking in air through a "normal" air cleaner rather than having air forced into it? Of course I could always add one of these to get the air flowing In other new's the dash panel has now gained throttle and choke controls and a ignition switch.. A place has been decided on for the battery to live... And a very basic wiring loom has been created with the aid of Richards advice, a very old test meter, and a much newer internet page... Which can mean only one thing.... Yep it's fire up time folks You can view and hear all the action on my latest YouTube update below.. enjoy http://www.youtube.c...u/0/-Vj4fRSlC_U

now thats good funny stuff there i don't care who u are!! :laughing-rofl:

I've never seen a W/H that was "Beyond Restoration" Isn't "Restoration" bringing back something from the dead to new or better than new condition?

I've finished the implement end... next job connecting arms, then stabiliser chains and top link arm !

Just one other hint, turn the engine over until the exhaust valve is closed before attacking it (you should be able to see it through the exhaust port).