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So I ended up catched up and doing some trading/buying with one of our members here last night. It is what I believe is a 1957 RJ35. The steering wheel apears to be wrong but not sure-who knows for sure? Fireman stopped by last night and checked it out with us and he realized that the hood mounts with 2 bolts on top (like the 55 and 56 RJ's) but also 2 bolts on each side (like the 59/59 RJ's). That was new to me. It is missing the belt guard and more importantly to me is the variable drive pulley. If anyone has that pulley they are willing to part with, please let me know. The motor is off the machine as it was not running however i will be getting it soon. It is a Clinton 1200. I will be posting lots of pictures as Clay (RJ35Hunter) is trying to come up with a timeline to help date the tractors and show the changes from early 55 to the 58 model year. If anyone would like to comment on the year or anything else, please do so. Thanks! ps- yeah... I oil rubbed it !!! Shoot me Matt... WHen I got it .

well my family hit the 10 horse mark last night at 10. i 18 own 4 my brother 14 now owns 2 and our grandfather has 4. last night my brother bought a 856 all original barn find for 175. so now i have a 86 308-8 an 86 310-8 a 62 702 with a sickle bar mower and a 66 reo. my brother now has a 71 workhorse 800 and the 66 856. and my grand father has a 74 b-80 8 speed. and 84? c-165 and 85 314-8 and a 90s 314 hydro. our basement is full for now haha

Thanks, There is one on EBay for a 1077 that I'll go ahead and purchase. I think it might work. Even though mine is a short frame and the 1077 is a long frame, Toro.com had the same part number for both. I was up in your neck of the woods last Saturday visiting my granddaughter in Rochester. We'll have to get together next time I'm up that way. Dave

OK I'm gonna go the other way! If you dont have the inside and outside mics to check your numbers then I would definately use it, Don. My opinion is that the guy assembling the motor has the responsibility to check the clearances as he puts it together. I use mics to get my numbers but I have used plastigauge in the past, and I probably will use it on occasions in the future. The packet has a scale on it that you compare to the squished up "string" and will give you your clearance to 1/2 a thousandths or so. It comes in 3 different sizes for measuring .001-.003", .002-.006" and .004-.009. I dont remember the color of the packages but I'd buy a pack each of the 2 smaller sizes for checking your con-rod clearance. I measure everything when I am putting an engine together, no matter who did the machining. I've had bad days when I've screwed something up or read a mic wrong, and I know some very very good machinists that have missed the mark on a piece every now and again. And I guess I like to know what my numbers are, and also where I am taking an (educated) gamble! The following is not aimed at you in any way Don, but while we are talking about putting engines together, there is something I would like to throw out there... If you look at the "Engines" section here, and look at all the "I just rebuilt my engine, and something is not right, and it must be crappy parts" threads you will notice that in 99% of these cases people didnt check things. The manuals spell it out for you, they tell you what to check and how to check it. They give you the numbers you should see, and they tell you how to put it all back together. It seems that there are a large number of people that think that all you need to do is get a big pile of pieces and bolt them together and then you can call it a rebuilt motor. One guy in the last year had his engine get tight when he was torquing up his con rod bolts so he decided to just loosen them off until the crank was free again. Others talk about their fully rebuilt engines and then ask how to check their valve clearances. People putting engines together and not setting up (or even checking) the endfloat on the crank, or the gaps on the rings, or the side clearance of the rings in the piston, the widths of their valve seats or any other of the critical clearances. Sorry about the rant here, I am just dont understand why people dont bother to read the manual or do what it says, and then have the nerve to come to a public place (on the internet) and complain about "cheap aftermarket parts" or "bad machinists" or "badly designed engines". It's not that hard to put one of these little engines together, but there are a ton of things that can wrong as well. Maybe that mechanic down the road isnt as stupid as he looks after all. End of rant... :hide: