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Upgrade Now More Info to all we visited and bought Wheel Horse items from! On Saturday January 7, 2012-Don Redding, David Ralph, and Lane Ralph took a Wheel Horse road trip. Took the truck and trailer from Gary, Indiana to Plymouth, Indiana (Castaways Restaurant for breakfst at # am -eastern time); Argos, Indiana at # for two Wheel Horse 1054 wheels; # in Boubon, Indiana -stopped and saw Norm Steinman ( Norm's Toys -http://www.normstoys.com/ ); # at Clunette/Leesburg, In to pick up an RJ 58 Snow/Dozer blade I bought from Scott Mehlburg (Mr. Indiana Meet and Greet); and about 2:30 PM at Jim Gunderman's in Paulding, Ohio to Pick up a 1979 C-121 Wheel Horse manual trnasmission tractor

Well today I got my letters put on it and it looks a whole lot better! Here is a picture of it now,Jake

My 16 horse puller. Its got billet aluminum wheelie bars and next summer will even ride on aluminum wheels! I painted the chassis and wieght brackets when i was piecing it together, but I'm still not going paint the sheet metal as i got chrome stickers and named it! "Tetanus Shot"

http://www.ebay.com/...=item35b85e199a

When I am not playing on my tractor I like to play with my BBQ grill and smokers. I have built a couple over the last few years. The first was a charcoal cooker (Which I added a gas assist to this past winter. Cooking outside in the Michigan winter can prove challenging). This one is my workhorse that does all the pulled pork, ribs, chicken, and mass catering events that I do when I am not working at my normal job. It's a pretty simple design but is extremely effective. The second is my tailgater special. I started out with a Kitchenaide 48" gas grill with 2 side burners and a warming drawer. I mounted it on a steel frame and added an axle across the back. The axle actually raised and lowers so the trailer drops down to grould level for cooking on. The back counter has a sink to one side and plenty of area for food. The back cabinets open up to hide a cooler for beverages. They also hide the clean and dirty water tanks, water pump, and the axle. I added a tractor battery so when you are somewhere you can't hookup to electricity you can switch over to DC power. Ive got about 6 months and about 20 cases of beer to get this done.

It's almost ready to fire, but not quite. I ran out of steam after 20-25 hours on the headers... lol I started the weekend out with these... A new pair of Speedway cones. And a pair of slightly used Mopar B-Body headers. I cut the flanges off and used the pieces of the primary tubes to make the new primaries... A lot of careful guesstimation told me where the holes needed to be, so I cut them out with a holesaw... Here's where I got im my groove and quit taking pictures... A finished pic or three... This evening, I made a temporary oil pressure gauge/ign. switch panel, mounted the ignition box and called it a night... I should be able to get it fired up sometime this week... Until next time, JB

Well the rods come under sized then you turn the crank smaller to fit the new rod, BUT did you check to see if the crank had ever been turned down before? say it is .010 under size and you put a std. rod on it, that would knock, these old tractors you never know if they have been rebuilt or not it is best to check sizes before ordering parts. Check your valves also I've had a few that knocked pretty bad and was valves out of adjustment.

You're going to give new meaning to the phrase, Go suck an egg. :lol:

its called a trophy tiller or a center piece lol

So last night my mind was racing a mile a minute. Couldn't sleep even cause I was thinking about this idea. Finalized it in my head, and when I got in today, I modeled it up. My idea was a mid-mount, adjustable spike "harrow" for the RJ-58. Designed more for looks then use though, but I bet it would tear up some serious dirt. Part of me wanted it mean-as-hell looking. The concept is this. Make 2 plates to mount to the frame just behind the front wheels, and have the thing "dragged" by that. I also had an idea to make it a solid link to the lift handle, so you can control how deep it goes by just pulling harder or softer on the handle. I think the design came out wicked cool. Building it wouldn't be that hard, but materials would cost allot. So what do you guys think? Feel free to give suggestions, comments, etc. So without further ado, here it is.

If that's 15" then I must be about 9' 5" tall!!!!

hello, well i pulled the engine out and repainted it the matching red and put the clinton decals on, i picked up the right size belts after a few trips back to the store ( it has a smaller than original rear pulley ) , and adjusted everything. installed what i think is a later model recoil, i know its not original but thats what i came up with, it seems to work real good so far and its better than the rope i was using. i'll be looking for that box of schnacke recoils and brass stop switches!! lol. bob.

One carb problem, one tranny problem. Grand total 0

The way this winters going around here Shawn......a blade will be fine . I decided to not install my blower and cab this year but have three machines with plows ready and a walk behind blower. If the snow is fluffy there is almost no amount a WH with a blade wont push as long as you have traction. Mike.......

I can make one to fit that, just reverse the angle iron and make the hitch a little wider and the hitch will have to stick out another 1" This should not be a problem to build at all and would not be a problem for me make the modifications needed for you guys. I will send you both pm's

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Some good information from a company that knows how to build machines that cut grass: http://media.toro.co...rmance_turf.pdf That may not be Wheel Horse-specific, but the deck designs are similar. (Their Atomic blades are the equivalent of Gator blades) Rotary mower blades do not have to be razor-sharp. As a matter of fact, making them that sharp is a waste of time since they "dull out" quickly from the dirt that's picked up. There are many variables, but you can probably get away with touching up the blades on residential mowers about every 10 hours of operation. I "babysit" up to 30 rotary blades on a weekly basis. (during season) Unless you have an unlimited budget, over-sharpening is nothing more than grinding your money away. Whatever you do, don't use a coarse grinding wheel and don't overheat the blade. Balancing is necessary for increased spindle bearing life. For what it's worth, I run "standard" OEM blades on all of my Wheel Horse decks and I will only replace blades if they're cracked, bent, excessively abraded at the sail, or ground back to the base of the sail.

You guys.... I don't know what to think up here in Ont. That's like marrying a model and not wanting to have sex in case you spoil the appearance...............no wonder there are borders :canada:

Does anyone have a pic of the support bracket. I need an idea where to put it on a 1968 Electro 12.