Leaderboard

I turned the 'puter on this morning and come here and noticed the pleasant change to RS !!! I seem to like the layout better , and seems like it is easier to navigate. And i am really likin' the Christmas theme !!! Darrell

I think you had a option, My 875 came with a factory solid link, but it would still float because it was manual lift. But with hydro lift you can get down pressure with a solid link, witch works good for moving dirt, but bad for moving snow on a gravel drive. I have both and I use the chain most of the time. It would be nice to have a float option in the hydro lift valve so you could have the best of both worlds.

Thanks to SteveBo's help, it's now in my workshop. I'm gonna do some minor things first to get it running and operating smooth.

Wow, they're increasing the size to 60 pages. Now Duke can write some longer articles. I'm going to have to check into a subscription. :handgestures-thumbupright:

I don't have anything to add, but I vote for Buckrancher's Stainless Steel RJ58.

i will be in touch with a few of you towards the end of the week regarding getting high quality images. After a 10 page research paper, and 3.5 page finally essay i have 2 classes finished and 2 more to go. One 20 minute portfolio presentation (culmination of my entire 4 years of school) and a 10 minute thesis presentation which is a culmination of a years worth of work. So very close to the end! I will get rocking on the calender this friday and try and get it done by next week thanks everyone! Justin

Has anyone successfully removed the needle bearing from a manual PTO housing without damage? Does it require any special tool? I have 2 PTOs that I would like to rebuild. They both have bad bearings. I removed the needle bearing from one, but found that the outer case of the bearing is very soft material, and it gets damaged easily. I am afraid that I may damage the new ones putting them back in. Any tips or pointers would be helpful. I do not have access to a press. Only standard mechanics tools. Thanks