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Ahhh thanks..I thought that might be the issue
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1054 Hydraulic Pump Return Spring
adsm08 replied to 1054 Project's topic in Implements and Attachments
Change it sooner than later. If it is one of the horse-shoe shaped springs and it broke the remaining piece will dig into the pump head with use, egging out the hole, gouging the surface, and ultimately making it unable to retain a new spring. -
Suburban - 4x4…. Will it work?
Dave D. replied to meadowfield's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
Very cool fabrication. This should be a most useful tractor. That looks very heavy duty. Dave -
I love the TV commercial where a robot is defeated by a human then breaks the board. I don't remember the product so guess it isn't a very effective commercial.
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Looking for a d series hydraulic pump in working condition or one known to be good let me know if anyone has one my dad is looking
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Probably, or someone got in there and swapped out the old one for a 10 pinion, they are very interchangeable.
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Looks like this may have been used when the electronic breakerless ignition systems were being introduced. New one on me too. Magneto ignition coil used with points and condenser 4775520-S Used in the K301S-47147b with Bendix starter and 10 amp stator. Conflicting info in the Kohler parts manuals. 1968 Charger 12 model 1-7231 - Late production but tractor model number stayed the same 1968 Raider 12 model 1-6231 - Late production but tractor model number stayed the same 1968 Electro 12 model 1-7235
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I'd leave it. Then race people with 16 hp engines and when you tie/beat them, you can point to the HP engine sticker and claim superiority of driving skills over HP...
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That is a standard magneto used for ignition only. Can be used on any Kohler K series if you already have the correct flywheel and mount.
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Just joining finally time to work on the $40 Suburban 551
Dave D. replied to Dave D.'s topic in Introductions
I do have the fuel tank on the shelf, it did fit there on that cradle. I do have a Briggs washing machine engine with a kick start. Hadn't cranked it in a few years. Dave -
Just joining finally time to work on the $40 Suburban 551
Handy Don replied to Dave D.'s topic in Introductions
Mr. Google image search seems to think it’s a Maytag “multi-motor” washing machine engine. I disagree! The bracket at the top might have held the fuel tank. -
Just joining finally time to work on the $40 Suburban 551
Dave D. replied to Dave D.'s topic in Introductions
Milspec stuff is usually over built. This one won't turn by hand, so probably needs a lot of work. The yellow Tecumseh engine is complete, might be a little small and one red engine missing the flywheel cover. We'll see what pans out. I'll be on the lookout for a kohler at a good price. As it gets cooler, I'll get the tractor out and we'll see what I can find. Anybody have an extra steering bevel gear for this? I'll keep looking for it out in the shop. Dave -
1054 Hydraulic Pump Return Spring
953 nut replied to 1054 Project's topic in Implements and Attachments
There are two kinds of springs used in the 1054 pumps. Open it up to see what spring you need prior to calling Lowell. https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product-category/hydraulics/page/2/ -
Just joining finally time to work on the $40 Suburban 551
ebinmaine replied to Dave D.'s topic in Introductions
A lot of those little single cylinder military engines were rated at only 1.5 HP. I've been told several times over the years that they were more powerful. -
Just joining finally time to work on the $40 Suburban 551
Dave D. replied to Dave D.'s topic in Introductions
Picture of the other side of the military single cylinder engine. This is it from the back. Thanks for responding. Dave -
I swapped a six-speed into my 854 but kept the original decal (vs. changing it to “864”) because so few folks would see/understand the difference in nomenclature. In your case, I’d change the decal, because horsepower is well understood!.
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Its just that the location between the A and B ports for the two cylinders seems appropriate. That said, I’m assuming that the unit did work at some point with the current plumbing so I would leave that alone until other diagnostics are done first. Anyway, unless you are planning add more hydraulically-controlled stuff, the N (power beyond) to reservoir is suitable plumbing.
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Apologies for the earlier confusion; this is the spindle assembly for a 37" deck on a vertical shaft Whorse( 7.5" shaft) , you would also need the spindle pulley #113049 ( which I am sold out of) . The pulley and shaft are separate pieces.
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Just joining finally time to work on the $40 Suburban 551
Handy Don replied to Dave D.'s topic in Introductions
Lets see the other side, please? The military used/uses a lot of small engines for pumps, generators, winches, and portable hydraulics. -
If you get stuck, I am in the same village as you. PM me if needed.
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Lookin at your pics it doesn't look like the crank is tapered. Might be just the pic. The one I have is tapered for sure. I haven't looked up part nos yet but looks like it sports the same one I have. What do you guys think ... right one? Hate to send it out if it ain't.
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Yes in a way I have just returned from doing that. With my garage door closed it get pretty dark in my garage. With the key in the on postion, I tried closing the hood carefully and watching. It is possible I saw 1 spark from around the Flywheel shroud area... I then tired several more times and saw nothing. then trying to start the tractor I find that I no longer was getting spark... as I have to already change the stator I will do that and check all the wiring that I am able. again thank you.
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Likewise, if I change the decal, nobody will know it's not a 14 Auto unless the check the ID tag and run the model number. Plus, it kind of fills the gap in my collection between the C-120 Auto and the C-160 Auto. They didn't release a C-140 in the US that I'm aware of, so the 14 Automatic fills that space.
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I wonder if the only ground for the coil is coming thru the headlight wiring.
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Looking at my 416-H as the only point of reference available to me, the only wiring that would be in any way related to the hood and it's movement is the connector going to the lights. If the lights are disconnected and the harness on the tractor side is secured from movement, the hood must be hitting something that you are not seeing. Leaving the hood in the open position, I would begin by touching every wire or moveable part that could touch a wire until the engine quits. Something is either grounding or causing a break in a circuit that is critical to the running of the engine. It's not magic or voodoo, it's a mechanical disconnect. Try your testing at night in pitch black darkness and see if you can see a spark as the culprit raises it's ugly head. When working in the dark, just be careful of moving parts such as belts, fans, PTO's etc.
