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Thank you. The only time my 318 let me down, was the ignition module on the P218 Onan. I use an adapter for the 3 point to use sleeve hitch attachments. My first couple of years plowing was with a sleeve hitch plow.
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New Member, New to Wheel Horse & Now I Own a 656
BradKahler replied to BradKahler's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Last night I ordered Base Kit-1 as recommended by Lowell along with a bunch of other odds and ends, including a replacement hitch pin to replace the one I cut into three pieces. Hopefully by the time the parts arrive I'll have the two cases prepped and ready for bearing installation. -
Definitely rode hard and put away wet.
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@ebinmaine another thing I regularly do weeks out is to get the penetrant going , break the nut loose , get the creping / soaking going, don't retighten as much , often get a liquid rust track started , with normal stress , movement . that really helps out on wheel / axel hubs . dissimilar metals , seam to react easier , the sooner the lubrication stain turns rusty , you are on the way . pete
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I put this one together for my crane in just a few hours with a section of an old frame that had a fractured F-bracket. Similar to the others shown, attach to the mid-tach and lift to latch in front. I think I'm going to make another one with a rack for weights now that I'm thinking about it again.
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i’m familiar with them. They go for mucho dinero when they come up for sale. They also take up quite a bit of room.
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There is! You can buy either Ball Joint "Pickle Forks" or the smaller Tie Rod version. HFT sells this "Party Pack" Fun for all sizes!! I have actually used two at a time from opposite sides on really stubborn stuff - like using two Wonderbars to remove deck spindle pulleys...
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You old trail boss you.
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312-8 with a K301 engine: charging at 16 VOLTS!
gwest_ca-(File Mod) replied to Alrashid2's topic in Wheel Horse Electrical
Although no longer available from Toro I suspect a two-wire regulator 790292 from Briggs & Stratton would work. -
312-8 with a K301 engine: charging at 16 VOLTS!
Alrashid2 replied to Alrashid2's topic in Wheel Horse Electrical
Hey all, thank you all so much for weighing in! @kpinnc funny enough mine is doing the opposite. Start her up and get to WOT, and she charges at about 14.0V for 5 min, then once she's warmed up it slowly starts creeping up to 16+V and settles there. @JCM thanks for correcting me, ugh! I'm usually really good with numbers. I did know it was a 1985. I was just telling a friend about my Remington 870 Wingmaster I recently restored, which is a 1980, and I think I had that number stuck in my head @953 nut thanks for sharing that! I have trouble comprehending these diagrams but I'll tuck away just in case @pfrederi I think I'm going to take your advice. Hell, the voltmeter didn't even work on it originally and previous owner said he didn't notice it ha! Bothers me that it was running at 14V and recently changed, so I wonder what changed, but if she keeps chugging along I'll run with it! I'll got an update today. Got the new battery in. I also ordered a new starter solenoid. Can't remember if I posted here, but I was checking all of my connections and thought the positive lead on the starter solenoid was a hair loose. Went to tighten it, and it snapped the brass(?) bolt halfway down the threads... ugh! I was going to replace it, but then realized that the mounting bolts have nuts on the inside end I'm having trouble getting my hands into, and really don't want to pull the dash covers to get there. I ended up just removing the thicker inside nut/washer to gain more thread space, replaced it with a thin washer, and found a spare nut that was thinner and had the same threads to clamp the positive wires back down. Think there is any issue to that? It's starting fine. Figured why replace the entire thing if it's working! Attached a photo of the end result. Anyway... put in the new battery. Did the Poor Man's load test before anything. Wow, it passed! Never dropped below 11V I think, and man it was cranking much faster and staying there! I think my battery has been bad since I bought it last year because this thing is cranking maybe 3 times as faster than it ever did! I just thought these Wheel Horses were slow to crank New battery in, but unfortunately high charging still the same... after a few minutes of warmup, goes from 14.V to 15.0V and ends up at about 15.9V and stays there, within 5 min or so of running at WOT. As @pfrederi said I think I'll just roll with it. Everything working as it should. Does anyone know what symptoms would come from overcharging too long, so I can keep an eye out? Is the worst case that I just weaken the battery over time? If that's all, then no biggie to me. This battery was 60 bucks and if it lasts a few years I'm happy! Thanks all -
Side shot Saturday... AND SUNDAY !
Sparky-(Admin) replied to Sparky-(Admin)'s topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Haven’t been out in the woods in a loooong time. Property isn’t mine, and there’s a forestry company dropping trees so it’s a bit of a maze out there. Was still nice to just putt around in the woods. -
Thanks, I'll look into that steering gear and see what I can find. Found a few kits on eBay that are clearly aftermarket copies, any experience with a particular seller? Or is it like most of these things, where it's luck of the draw?
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Yup. I just have a hand and hammer fork but it's great for wedging stuff off like pulleys. It would be nice to have the different sizes too.
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Looks like a $400 48" er.
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Here is the answer for moving a plane: Here is one thread about the air horse.
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Looks like she was rode hard and put away wet. That steering gear backlash might come out when you adjust the nut in front of the gear, that requires a cotter pin removal and a 3/4" wrench. If it is severely worn a washer behind the nut will give more adjustment and still have cotter pin engagement. You might find a complete kit of ignition parts on eBay for way less than OEM, they are aftermarket but some have had good success.
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Nice start... Not too many of us ever feel we "enjoy" the electrical challenge though....
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The lights are tested at startup and may be part of the OP's concern. The test switch was only on 88, 89 & 90 520's way before the 1997 in question.
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It appears the Wheel Horse bug has hit for real. Stumbled upon this 520-H not even 5 minutes from our shop. Really don't need another project to add to the list, but couldn't pass it up for the price. It's pretty rough. Almost 2k hours, single owner machine though. What I know so far: Owner said "it needs a starter solenoid".... Does not run. Will crank (solenoid is fine) and has compression. Looks like they hooked up the replacement ignition coil wrong and sent battery 12v+ to the ground side of the ignition module. It's toast, as is the coil. Pretty pricey way to start the revival, but it is what it is. Followed proper procedure for testing both components and they are indeed bad. Steering is extremely sloppy. Most of it is in the tie rod ends, but a good portion of it appears to be in the steering gear backlash. Has hydraulic leak near the rear somewhere. Has previous owner wiring "fixes". Loaded rear old school Goodyear treads. Deck shell looks newer than the rest of the tractor. Maybe a replacement? Has axle bracket installed. Dash lights all come on at startup, but I will plan on going through the whole system. Don't like having hidden gremlins and I enjoy the electrical challenge. All in all, pretty excited.
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800 Special & 50” Sickle
"Manic-Mechanic" replied to "Manic-Mechanic"'s topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
Test Run prior to attachment -
I concur emphatically with this choice. In the right hands, this ball joint wedge fork is a true timesaver. It has a smaller cousin for tie rods. In the wrong hands, the fork can fly out, go across the room and get imbedded in the water heater... A lot to do with the choice of extractor tool is whether or not the joint is being reused. The fork usually tears up the boot... Sometimes... just wedging it in and pushing down on the opposite end is enough to pop it loose.
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265-H K61 Axle Seal Replacement Question
Ron L replied to Ron L's topic in Transmissions and transaxles
Thank you. It really seems like the metal ring was part of the seals that were installed. The new seals don't have the ring and would fit it I could get the rings out. -
Breathtaking to realize that spaceflight to, landing on, and returning from the moon used computers that had small fractions of the processing power, working memory, and storage capacities of a modern cell phone.
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Came apart easy enough. Just gonna clean it up, replace the o rings and put it back together. Did not see any Mylar shims. The document does say “if used” so maybe some don’t have them?
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GOT EM!! I used my induction heater I picked up a few months ago.
