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The pessimist sees the dark tunnel. The optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel. The realist sees two lights at the end of the tunnel. And the engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks.
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No 5-pin switches are all different. Up until now the 8362 switch was still available from Toro but looks like that has ended. It was a very expensive and heavy duty switch that carried the full current required for the starter motor. What many have done in the past is replace it with a lighter duty and less expensive switch plus add a starter solenoid to carry the starter load. The heavy wires going to the switch can be replaced with 14 gauge wires and a plug in connector can be added for the new switch. Your 8362 switch has 4-key positions. A less expensive and more common 103991 switch is a 3-key position switch which should work because you have a separate light switch. A 1960's - 70's Ford solenoid is a good choice
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Thank you to all our Veterans for keeping America the Land of the Free because of the Brave.
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Thank you to all you veterans for your sacrifice and service to our Country.
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My Dad's RJ35 Home Out of Storage. :)
Retired Wrencher replied to Mitchula's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Mitchel’s: Nice post about your family and your dad’s wheel horse. If were me I would leave it like it is in memory of your father. Thanks for the post. - Today
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Custom 3d printed badges, ornaments etc.
Shynon replied to Wheel Horse 3D's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
For a guy who doesn't need to know the time, everyday is Saturday -
Nice gift!
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A long shot here - but does that switch not look like a refrigerator door switch?? Perhaps a search of the actual part P/N can reveal its usage...
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What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
ebinmaine replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
The oil has been proven to lose its Additive Package after a period of 3 to 5 years maximum. Every other year is good. Time to change it. -
Yes I replaced one with 3/4” cold roll rod
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looking to replace my key switch on my electro 12 tractor [the L leg is not working, lights, clutch, lighter, etc.] the parts list show's part # 8362 it's a 5-pin switch marked B-M-S-R and L according to the wiring diagram. I can't find a 5-pin switch with those exact letters or part number. Are all 5-pin switch's the same even if the letters are different?
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Where are your tester leads when it drops to zero? Or are you watching an in dash voltmeter? Share your model and serial number so we can look at the correct diagram.
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Would you use 3/4 in cold rolled steel to replace the rod? Dave
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Finished this up Sunday and tested for leaks. I had a pretty substantial one from an elbow joint near the beginning of the expansion. I had to cut the next piece of pipe in two to get it out to fix the leak and then get put a union in it. Did that tonight, there are two more, pretty minor leaks still. One is about 14 ft up and I am not going to worry about it. The other is in the regulated line I use for painting and running my press. It had to be taken apart to do the original work, and has to come apart again because the regulator is no good. Anyway.... tonight I had PT for my be shoulder, which I of course agitated threading pipe Saturday, and I got a talking to about undoing all their work right before the ortho follow up.
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Great idea. Welding it in the center of the frame would be way easier to do. Great advice, Thanks, Dave
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Kohler_kid joined the community
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I have a 108-5. Turning the key to Start does nothing. I have replaced the ignition switch and the solenoid with no luck. The wiring looks factory from what I can tell. I can jump the solenoid and it starts fine. I can use the pull start and it starts fine. On the voltmeter, I show 12.5v. As soon as I turn the key to Start, it drops to 0. Battery is good. But also tried booster pack just to be sure. I suspect the pto safety switch or the neutral safety on top of the transmission. The pto safety switch I'm wondering if there is a cheaper option than $50 to $70 The part is listed here: https://www.partstree.com/parts/toro-109327/
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Ah, I thought it was about the link from the pedal to the brake. That 3/4" foot peg rod can be replaced as a whole rod or 1/2 of the length can be welded in the middle of the frame rails and to the left rail. Someone couldn't get that foot rest off and chose the wrong way to do it !
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Mine is a 2000my, same tractor. My oil light flickers once in a while too. Not sure why, but never looked into it. It runs great. 750 hours on it.
