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Finished the head clean up. Found a use for the PB Blaster. Seems to cut carbon pretty good. Sprayed the head, waited 30 minutes and hit it with the Dremel using SS brushes.
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Yes sir, it's a relay. My mistake.
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I don't remember who, but one comment said to get a steel head asket.
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I have a K301 that runs great but is stupid loud even with a new muffler. Much louder than a 14 or even FILs 16hp. Valve adjustment made no difference. Figured I'd have to go into it to figure it out...
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Brake shaft rides directly on the differential bull gear. If it doesn't turn when the tractor rolls, something is wrong. You will likely have to open the case and have a look. Possibly a busted differential.
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That last picture is likely the low oil relay. The regulator should be in the blower housing over the flywheel.
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Backfire is unburned fuel entering the exhaust system and burning/expanding really fast (kinda explosive). NOT good for mufflers. Interestingly, the 1990 small engine pollution abatement rules caused many engine makers to put solenoid valves on their carburetors to instantly shut off fuel when the engine is switched off. Absent one of these, as long as an engine was spinning it’d draw fuel even with no spark. That fuel would go out the exhaust as a pollutant. To lessen “spinning with no spark” is one reason for bringing an older engine to idle before shutting it down.
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Interesting, as I do have a frequent backfire (through the exhaust) when I shut off the engine. Related possibly
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As I said in another post I've been using that - amongst other proven products - for years. Remember to replace the head bolts with new Grade 8 when reassembling. One other rusty bolt removal trick. TIGHTEN the bolt just a tiny bit. Then loosen. Repeat multiple times going a little more each time.
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Check your timing.
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transmission
bkarp@roadrunner.com replied to bkarp@roadrunner.com's topic in Transmissions and transaxles
brake drum does not turn when moving tractor back and forth. tried high and low range shifter in different positions, no change.also when put in any gear or high ot low range tractor still free wheels.i need help. thanks brent -
transmission
bkarp@roadrunner.com replied to bkarp@roadrunner.com's topic in Transmissions and transaxles
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I never thought much about it until I added a couple of tractors to my collection. My original C-120 still has the stock Nelson Muffler (on a K301) - but it's twice as loud as my other two tractors. C-141 K321 w/stock Nelson muffler '73 No Name K321 with aftermarket muffler (surprisingly, the quietest of all 3) I asked ChatGTP about it and it provided some solutions and a drawing. I really want to keep the Nelson muffler on my C-120. Curious if anyone has successfully operated on one with some success. Here's what AI suggests Repair options (from least invasive to most involved) 1. Internal baffle stabilization (best first step) If the muffler rattles when shaken, this is likely your fix. Method Drill a small access hole (⅜"–½") on the underside Use a stiff wire or rod to confirm loose internals Tack-weld or plug-weld the loose baffle through the hole Weld the access hole shut Result Often restores 70–90% of original quietness Keeps original Nelson muffler intact Invisible once done This is the most common successful repair. 2. Internal repack (moderate skill, very effective) Original Nelsons were not fiberglass-packed like modern mufflers, but adding discreet packing helps. Method Cut a small rectangular access window on the underside Add stainless steel wool or basalt exhaust packing Re-secure internal plates if possible Weld panel back in place and grind smooth Result Significantly deeper, softer exhaust note Slightly quieter than factory Still visually original ⚠️ Do not use household steel wool—it burns quickly. 3. Hidden secondary diffuser (period-safe trick) This avoids opening the muffler at all. Method Insert a short perforated tube or cone into the outlet Secure with a hidden tack weld inside the outlet Paint flat black Result Reduces sharp crack without choking the engine Often used by restorers who want no shell modification 4. Full internal rebuild (maximum effort) Only worth it if originality matters greatly. Method Split the muffler along a seam Recreate baffles from stainless sheet Weld back together and refinish Result As quiet as new Labor-intensive but museum-grade What not to do ❌ Don’t drill random holes (makes it louder) ❌ Don’t stuff fiberglass loosely (blows out fast) ❌ Don’t neck down the outlet (hurts K-301 breathing) ❌ Don’t assume “they were always loud” — they weren’t A healthy Nelson on a K-301 should be deep and mellow, not sharp.
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Good question... I don't know. My cord on the boat was about 8' with no issues... @Handy Don has you covered!
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No, I don’t. There will be some voltage reduction depending on the gauge of the wires, but it’ll be quite small. For 14ga copper wire with solid connections, resistance will be ~2.6 ohms per 1,000 feet. You’ll have 40 feet (electricity needs a round trip!), or .04 x 2.6 = 0.104 ohms For 16ga its ~4 ohms per 1,000 feet. .04 x 4 = 0.16 ohms If the trickle charger is putting out, say, 13 volts then 16 and 14 can carry, respectively, between 80 and 125 amps. So going with 14ga should be more than good and 16ga would be adequate.
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Nothing unusual jumping out at me from those images. Keep on going! Good to see no erosion of the head or piston near the exhaust valve, too. Lotsa life left in that engine. Note the “fire ring” of metal on the inner circumference of the head gasket. Ideally, your replacement should have the same feature as this makes for the longest-lasting seal.
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Happy Birthday, Mr. Bo!
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I'd like to put a solar charger on my Oliver tractor at the farm. But I would need to extend the leads about 20 ft out of the shed to get good sunlight. Do yall this the losses would be too great with this extension?
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HAPPY BIRTHDAY STEVE !!! Have a great day and a cigar !!
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Keep up the good revival/maintenance on that old horse
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I just wanna say you guys made a believer outta me! Look at the head bolts, they have Liquid wrench the entire length. That spray, hammer every time you walk by a wait a few days really works! Head bolts all seemed to be the same tightness. 2 whacks with the heel of my hand and they came loose. Put a pick under the head gasket & it popped right off. Exhaust valve has a lot of debris around it. Cylinder walls are smooth, no nicks or gouges. The mule pulley guard nut came off with the same technic. Pulleys spin freely. I don't understand why the belt wouldn't come thru them. Haven't tried the tension adjuster yet. Found the regulator mounting bolts are loose.
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What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
8ntruck replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
I still like a 16 Oz hammer for framing. Going in tomorrow for a rebuild on my right hand eyeball tomorrow. Opted for the de-luxe replacement lens with astigmatism correction. If it turns out as well as the left eye rebuild, it will make my accuracy much better when using the 16 Oz framing hammer. -
Changed Status to Closed
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Disassembly continues on the C160…
Handy Don replied to RoubaixRider's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
Grownups here who recognize that other grownups get to make their own decisions! Whatever makes you smile about that tractor is what you should go ahead and do. -
Disassembly continues on the C160…
Treepep replied to RoubaixRider's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
Fixed it
