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Be happy to. Later today.
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If it weren't for marriage, men would go through life thinking they had no faults at all.
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Driving Miss Dusty. First Ride around the block.
Retired Wrencher replied to squonk's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Mike I keep watching your video. It’s just amazing sometimes you pick these tractors up and there dusty and dirty and you think to yourself what am I getting myself into. But in your case you did well picking that one up. We all wish we could be lucky like that.The B 100 is almost done I will post a video with your wheel weights on it. -
Where to get a wiring harness or not...
Achto replied to jeremyjohnson@gmx.com's topic in Wheel Horse Electrical
I usually make a new harness, if one is needed. -
Excellent update!!! But, Uhm... Pics???
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Just joining finally time to work on the $40 Suburban 551
Dave D. replied to Dave D.'s topic in Introductions
Very Cool! Those are some cool pictures. Keep me informed of any shows or get togethers in NC. I've got to get out and see some of these little machines in person. Thanks, Dave -
DominicMcdonald joined the community
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Just joining finally time to work on the $40 Suburban 551
kpinnc replied to Dave D.'s topic in Introductions
There are more than you'd think. Not as many as 20 years ago, but they are still around. I live about 30 miles NE of Charlotte. There used to be a few members around Fuquay and the Raleigh area. I haven't kept up but I know there are a few still in your area. -
Thanks for the replies. I noticed that this thread is double posted and there are several replies over in the other duplicate thread. Maybe a moderator can fix this? I posted this reply over in the other thread. First though, I just looked at the dip stick and for the most part it is in great shape except in one spot. About 2 inches up from the tip is a little light pitting continuing up for about another 2 inches. Not all of that 2" is pitted, some just a little discolored. After that it is clean and new looking like the bottom 2 inches. The pitting is very mild and i don't remember if I the dip stick was rusty and I wiped it off the first time I looked at it or not. I did not do anything extra to clean it other then wipe it off. The small engines were the older briggs push mower engines that only have a handful of parts! Maybe for now I could flush the transmission and then work on starting the engine so I can asses the general condition? Also I am thinking to keep my 520h as my main mower and use te 416-8 as the work tractor around the property? I needed new tires as none of the tires on the 416 will hold air. I picked up 2 new R4 tread tires for the rear for $100. They are 23 x 8.5 x 12 which is the same size that are on there now. Probably should have ask about that tread here before buying them. Front tires, I found a set of 2 new 16 x 6.50 x 8 4ply china standard tread for the front for $40 for both at a tire shop. Qing DA brand if anyone has ever heard of them. I haven't bought them yet. The videos will be very helpful, thanks. I watched a short video the other day where the the transaxle was split to replace some bad gears. It looked pretty simple as long as I have a good clean work space and track all the parts as i take it apart. When i replaced the 520h seal, I remember reading about checking the play in the bearings. I will be checking this 416 like you recommend. Everything was very stiff until after I put the motor oil in and started turning things. A local independent grocery store went out of business a couple of years ago and i bought nearly a case of their store brand motor oil for $2 a qt. I just dumped it in the transaxle for now thinking it might help keep things from rusting more till I can flush it properly or split it. I am guessing there was almost 2 qts of water in there. Today I dumped the oil/water into a clear 3gal jug and will see how much separates. I will go out and turn the wheels being sure to pay close attention to how it feels and what noise I hear. I did this today but just briefly and everything seemed ok. I did notice that the High/Low selector seems to be a little off center. Where the shifter comes through the cover plate with the slot in it,when in low gear there is about an inch of space left before the shifter rod would hit the plate on the left side. Shifting from Low to Neutral there is only about an inch left from the right side of the plate. When shifting to High, the shifter rod hits the right side of the slot in the plate. So that is as far as it can go to the right. It feels like it is fully engaged but i do not know. perhaps there is an adjustment or the rod could be bent? I have an SKF 11124 seal that I bought for the left side of my 520 but it hasn't started leaking yet. I saved the old seal from the RT side and remember now that the metal sleeve part of the seal is around 1/2" thick and the replacement is only half of that. Seems I remember reading something about that here in the forum when I changed it a couple of years ago. If I remember correctly, I drove the seal in a little so that the rubber lip would ride on a new area on the axle shaft. The mower deck is a 48" and appears to be the same as the deck on my 520? Haven't taken the deck off yet but the top appears to be in great shape and still has the bolt on deflector guard. I should probably check the compression on the engine and see if I can get it to start. All I know is the PO said he bought new points and coil but couldn't get it to start. Was running at the end of the last season that he used it. Maybe be something simple. Are there some procedures I should do before attempting to start the engine? 1- Of course change the oil first. 2- Maybe take out the sparkplug and put in a little trans fluid and let it soak a couple of days? 3- I could take the valve cover off and see if the valves are moving but then the gasket would probably start leaking? 4- Ah, there is trash in the fuel tank and the bottom of the gauge has a little rust. Clean the fuel system. 5- Make sure the fuel pump is pumping? Seems i read somewhere that one can rebuild the pump with a new diaphragm? If I just flush the transmission and everything seems smooth, Is there a chance I could cause major damage in the long run? I know that is hard to answer. Thinking it would probably be some time before I would be in the position to split the transmission. Thanks I ask on the other thread about sourcing parts like points/condenser, carb kit, maybe fuel pump or kit?
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Oh, where is a good place to buy points, condenser, and fuel pump? Also I guess I need to remove the bowl from the carb and see what it looks like in there. Do you guys recommend rebuilding or replacing the carb when needed?
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Thanks for the replies. I noticed that this thread is double posted and there are several replies over in the other duplicate thread. Maybe a moderator can fix this? The videos will be very helpful, thanks. I watched a short video the other day where the the transaxle was split to replace some bad gears. It looked pretty simple as long as I have a good clean work space and track all the parts as i take it apart. When i replaced the 520h seal, I remember reading about checking the play in the bearings. I will be checking this 416 like you recommend. Everything was very stiff until after I put the motor oil in and started turning things. A local independent grocery store went out of business a couple of years ago and i bought nearly a case of their store brand motor oil for $2 a qt. I just dumped it in the transaxle for now thinking it might help keep things from rusting more till I can flush it properly or split it. I am guessing there was almost 2 qts of water in there. Today I dumped the oil/water into a clear 3gal jug and will see how much separates. I will go out and turn the wheels being sure to pay close attention to how it feels and what noise I hear. I did this today but just briefly and everything seemed ok. I did notice that the High/Low selector seems to be a little off center. Where the shifter comes through the cover plate with the slot in it,when in low gear there is about an inch of space left before the shifter rod would hit the plate on the left side. Shifting from Low to Neutral there is only about an inch left from the right side of the plate. When shifting to High, the shifter rod hits the right side of the slot in the plate. So that is as far as it can go to the right. It feels like it is fully engaged but i do not know. perhaps there is an adjustment or the rod could be bent? I have an SKF 11124 seal that I bought for the left side of my 520 but it hasn't started leaking yet. I saved the old seal from the RT side and remember now that the metal sleeve part of the seal is around 1/2" thick and the replacement is only half of that. Seems I remember reading something about that here in the forum when I changed it a couple of years ago. If I remember correctly, I drove the seal in a little so that the rubber lip would ride on a new area on the axle shaft. The mower deck is a 48" and appears to be the same as the deck on my 520? Haven't taken the deck off yet but the top appears to be in great shape and still has the bolt on deflector guard. I should probably check the compression on the engine and see if I can get it to start. All I know is the PO said he bought new points and coil but couldn't get it to start. Was running at the end of the last season that he used it. Maybe be something simple. Are there some procedures I should do before attempting to start the engine? 1- Of course change the oil first. 2- Maybe take out the sparkplug and put in a little trans fluid and let it soak a couple of days? 3- I could take the valve cover off and see if the valves are moving but then the gasket would probably start leaking? 4- Ah, there is trash in the fuel tank and the bottom of the gauge has a little rust. Clean the fuel system. 5- Make sure the fuel pump is pumping? Seems i read somewhere that one can rebuild the pump with a new diaphragm? If I just flush the transmission and everything seems smooth, Is there a chance I could cause major damage in the long run? I know that is hard to answer. Thinking it would probably be some time before I would be in the position to split the transmission. Thanks
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Where to get a wiring harness or not...
gwest_ca-(File Mod) replied to jeremyjohnson@gmx.com's topic in Wheel Horse Electrical
Welcome to Red Square. Why do you think you need a new wiring harness? Have never seen new ones available. They can be easily taken apart and cleaned or repaired if necessary. Post your tractor's model and serial numbers so we can link you to the correct wiring diagrams. -
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That is how that pulley is made, all one piece , not a separate tube
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The ARK control may be one which has OUT and BYD internally joined unless a special plug is inserted to separate those two ports. Need the specs.
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I was rummaging through old posts and realized this thread deserved an update. Last series of posts here concerned attaching a muffler nipple to a K181 exhaust port that had no threads due to rust and exhaust erosion. I was successful with using an NPT tap to get some threading and then reinforced it with JB Weld Steel epoxy. Update... After about a year of use, the epoxy softened and the muffler stared to wobble. (as @WHX?? predicted just after I’d finished the repair ). Acetone and careful scraping removed the old epoxy. Then I went through most of the sequence again but this time using the white JB Weld High Temperature epoxy that @squonk suggested (also a bit after I’d finished the first repair 😉). I was concerned that this epoxy cures to a more brittle composition (somewhat akin to ceramics) but after more than three years the muffler is still solidly in place. The 854 is alive and well as my worker for mowing (36” gear deck), towing, and plowing (42”). I’ve posted about these implements elsewhere. Full repaint. F-plate reinforcement, 6-speed, one-piece gas tank, custom dash with volt and amp meters, front attach-a-matic, solenoid start, new rubber (Carlisle and Firestone), and a couple new decals!
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But the drive didn’t happen without a little leak first. The cooler I stuck on may have been restrictive. It blew the input line out and sprayed down the whole shop! I added a new cooler and high pressure hose. IMG_8493.jpeg
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We took a drive tonight. Mrs. P drove it like she parked it yesterday! Things it needs yet: Throttle adjustment. The hydroboost seems to be enough of a drag at idle, it’ll stall if you spike the brakes hard enough. Wiper motor, wipers I have another motor. I just need to swap it in. Windshield its a little cracked, all over. IMG_8503.jpeg
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Penetrol (Before and After)
ineedanother replied to squonk's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
I looked at one of my tillers today and realized I need to soak it down. Not sure why I haven't done that yet. I have a quart or more of penetrol in the shop so I put it on the list for this weekend -
@ebinmaine Hey Eric, can you post a pic of that loader valve?
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The first unit is made by Peco. You may find more information online about the mounting system for a WH. The second on is obviously WH but you will need the rear axle bracket and the pulleys that bolt under the fender pan. Also to be on the safe side, the proper belt guard and foot rest. All of this is probably covered in the manual that @gwest_ca posted for you. I’m just going by memory.
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Where to get a wiring harness or not...
jeremyjohnson@gmx.com posted a topic in Wheel Horse Electrical
I've had a 414 - 8 for several years and have just begun giving it an overhaul. The things in pieces getting cleaned up and different parts are getting the attention they have need for some time. So I was considering a new wiring harness. I'm certainly not finding one in my internet searches, but I had a feeling that someone in this forum would be able to point me in the right direction or bring me into reality as to what I should expect. Do I just need to fabricate the connections? Am I wasting my time trying to find some used rat's nest off of somebody's old tractor? I'd appreciate any feedback. I'm hoping to get this thing put back together soon. -
jeremyjohnson@gmx.com joined the community
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New-to-me Horse (and other stuff) Hauler!!
Handy Don replied to ebinmaine's topic in non tractor related discussion
Yeah, don’t see those any more with anti-lock pretty being much standard equipment! -
https://earthfuneral.com
- Yesterday
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Lawn Vac connecting
gwest_ca-(File Mod) replied to Brooklyn581's topic in Implements and Attachments
This may help. Click on the picture to see other models
