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I’m glad to have two horses set up for snow duty. Had a chain come off my D160 so i finished up with my 417. We have another storm potentially brewing here NJ. Possibly a NorEaster.
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Here is a comparative viscosity chart that cross-references the common SAE engine oil, SAE gear oil, and ISO VG (hydraulic fluid) grading systems. Note that while oils on the same horizontal line have similar viscosities, they contain different additives and are not always interchangeable; Kinematic Viscosity (cSt @ 40°C) ISO VG (Hydraulic) SAE Engine Oil SAE Gear Oil 32 ISO VG 32 SAE 10W SAE 75W 46 ISO VG 46 SAE 15W / SAE 20 - 68 ISO VG 68 SAE 20W / SAE 30 SAE 80W 100 ISO VG 100 SAE 30 SAE 80W / SAE 90 150 ISO VG 150 SAE 40 SAE 90 220 ISO VG 220 SAE 50 SAE 90 / SAE 140 320 ISO VG 320 SAE 60 SAE 140 Back at the Power and Hydro plants turbine oil is rarely changed ie I replaced 50 year old oil when doing major rehabs. A Conoco Phillips oil chemist recommended we use hydraulic oil as additive oil to our turbines to boos the gradually lost additives. We also did additive testing every few years and on rare occasions had the oil company make us a special 5 gallon can of super additive oil. So my 2 cents is to keep using a Hydraulic oil to get additives. Then again garden tractor loaders are low pressure 7-800psi, so there not like the 3000 and 5000 psi modern industrial systems. So additives for pumps and valve surfaces aren't as critical.
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@Beap52 As you found the pie is excellent warm, add ice cream and it gets even better. Its also excellent cold, straight out of the refrigerator. Now you went and made me hungry for some!
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Section 7 is your friend
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Now available: the discontinued 116324 hydro rod assemblies with the ball joint. $50.00 plus shipping. If interested, private message me here , or call / text during normal business hours. Please DO NOT COMMENT ON THIS THREAD and please NO EMAILS as they do not get checked regularly.
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Didn't realize the wife was recording from inside her warm kitchen. Like I said earlier, I love Hydros!
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Thanks. I realize this isn’t cutting-edge, but I hadn’t considered that battery type for cranking a small engine. I’ll have to give it a try on a side project I have. Steve
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Now available-we have reproduced the recently discontinued 108333 hydro speed control cams, $30.00 plus shipping. we also have a limited supply of NOS originals in stock - $ 40.00 plus shipping. If interested, send me a private message or call / text during normal business hours. PLEASE DO NOT COMMENT ON THIS THREAD! AND DO NOT SEND AN EMAIL as they do not get checked regularly.
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This I did not know but it was suggested by PF Engineering, where the loader plans came from, to use 10 weight. I have no idea what the loader builder @cschannuth used and he didn't remember. I have quite a few leaks, more on that in another thread, and when it got low I just put generic tractor hy fluid in it. fine in the summer but for pushing snow around real slow. It's now in the shop and undergoing upkeep and it's gonna get log splitter oil which is advertised as 10 wt. Not gonna worry about what was in it. Never gonna get it all out anyway. The big tractor when I did the 50 hr fluid change out I wasn't gonna buy their 900 a jug fluid so I used AW46 which is supposedly 20 wt. Sluggish yes in the cold and never gets warm. The HY system draws off the hydro fluid which the transmission casing acts as a huge heat sink. I would just stay with 32 Squonky. Always wondered if 32 would be better in say a 520 hydro for winter. They whine like crazy when first started in cold. What about 0w-20??
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In the short term, a primer bulb will help greatly. They certainly save batteries and starters when the fuel tank is that far back. I like my electric pumps, but I keep a couple primer bulbs on hand as well. The cheaper electric pumps can croak on you at the worst possible time... Facet low pressure (1-2 psi) electric pumps are best but they are expensive.
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Took advantage of being snow bound. No reason to get out and too cold for me to enjoy being out so I went through our hundreds of slides and transferred them to the computer. Fun to look back to the mid 1960's of family photos. Lots of memories and things I hadn't thought about for years. For one, that's me on my first mower. I don't remember what it cost. I'm pretty sure was a Montgomery Wards, one forward speed and one reverse speed. The blade was a direct drive--If the engine was spinning--the blade was turning. I believe Ward's mowers had tread on the tires and Sear's mowers were smooth. I'm guessing that if it was in gear and a lad pulled the starter rope and it fired off, said lad would be slow chasing his mower.
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We sure have been talking about these a lot lately. I use the offshore 9.98 ones with no problems but any low pressure 2-4 or 5 psi will work. Search on electric fuel pump to find those threads. Just installed a cheapy on a 520 that was a notorious hard starter. Started right up the other day at -15 out. Another one in progress.
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Anyone have any recommendations for an electric fuel pump for a D180? This tractor is retrofitted with a 25 hp Kohler Command engine with a pulse type pump mounted on the engine itself which really seems to be struggling to get fuel from the tank in the back. Once it's running it's fine, but man trying to get it started is gonna take out my starter motor. I know a low pressure pump is called for, but I'm not sure the pressure range. Willing to pay a little more for NOT a Chinese knock off (which may be asking a lot) so a manufacturer to look for would be helpful too.
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1054WH/K241 not charging and not holding a charge. This is a recent restoration with a new battery.
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This is what this hobby is all about...
kpinnc replied to Docwheelhorse's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Outstanding Tony! She looks like she's really enjoying that tractor! Well done sir! -
Gave her a test drive today. Most definitely a huge improvement, and I already loved this thing before. Reduction steering is a massive plus on fat front tires. I can steer with one finger now. Hydro is much faster. Now it drives like any other Eaton as far as I can tell. Of course the foot control makes it better. I went ahead and changed the engine oil and filter, even though it had only 10 hours on the clock total. I built this engine so I wanted to make sure it was cleaned out just in case. I always do that with rebuilt engines. Oil change before 5 hours and once more about 5 hours later. She's good now for 50 hours run time. Took pics just to prove we do in fact occasionally get some form of white stuff...
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I can attest to the tastiness of this pie. Stuck in the house because it's too dad gum cold to be outside so grabbed a homemade pie crust out of the freezer and filled it with blackberries from last summer and WALA good eating . This one is a keeper! I used about 1/2 cup of evaporated milk and about half brown sugar/white sugar mix. Baked for 1 hour and fifteen minutes--maybe could have stayed in oven a little longer--but is still warm when I cut it. I've had the recipe printed out for some time and finally got around to concocting it. It's wife approved and I'll take a chunk to mom tomorrow at assisted living--she gets tired of the food there.
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Welcome back looking forward to your "come back tour".
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@Dan 312-8 That is one pristine RJ. Nice
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Side shot Saturday... AND SUNDAY !
c-series don replied to Sparky-(Admin)'s topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Cleaned up after the 417-A with two stage blower today with the 418-C. I have the skids setup a little bit on the blower so I can go across the grass. This way my dog can have a place to go, and I can get to the place I dump my ashes from the wood stove. Scraped the driveway down with the 418. Tomorrow if I get ambitious I might get the C-141 with the sweeper out and clean the driveway a little better. - Yesterday
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Same here. I have a GT1800 that needs a new home. PM me if you're interested.
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Yes
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Sorry Mike the 520H is not for sale. Still using it to plow and mow. Dave
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That was my thought.
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Posted in your other thread Wayne. I can send you my old bushings to get ya by. Best thing to try when you get hung up drop the blower to get weight off the front and back on the rear. Back out carefully in the same tracks dragging the blower. Lift the blower back up when clear.
