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Processed 20 lbs of venison burger. Chopped 3 lb of frozen bacon. Double ground to get good bacon distribution. Bagged, scored, and frozen 80- 1/4 pounders.
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Thank you everyone for your kind birthday wishes!! You guys are the best!
- Today
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Thanks! Will do. I am in North Georgia and can pickup anywhere. Retired and a road trip is always good!
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518xi ch18 oil burning and crankcase pressure.
Wild Bill 633 replied to Fordiesel69's topic in Engines
Check compression. Possible head gasket failure. -
mower deck belt replacement and height adjustment
The real milo replied to eibbed's topic in Implements and Attachments
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I'll have to apologize, I should have thought to post the NAPA parts number here for the upper radiator hose. I looked through my receipts and I do not have the slip. I just went out to check the tractor and there is no number on the hose. The fellow at NAPA took the old hose and matched it up as close as he could get to the OEM hose and I did have to do a little trimming on both ends. The good news is, it does fit fairly close to the OEM . I clamped both ends and have run the tractor about 4 hours since the repair with normal temps on the gauge and no leaks.
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thanks for the advice! i will adjust the fuel line and try to clean/adjust the carb better. i think the condenser is under the flywheel, but i can't check because i don't have a flywheel puller or even a way to remove the big nut holding it on. i don't know how WHX?? found out its from Jacobsen so fast, but he should be a detective!
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It sound OK the puffing is probably the aftermarket ignition parts. Also the oil leak can be the crank seal, or the bearing plate gasket behind the flywheel. Honestly the repair is very easy once the flywheel is off. If you need to replace the gasket on the flywheel side bearing plate, use a digital caliper and measure the thickness of the gasket so you can match the new ones. Typically you don't want to run the crak shaft side play too tight. The spec is very wide so you can vary quite a bit.
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953 NARROW 4.80x8 front rims
1988_wheelhorse312 replied to Docwheelhorse's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Yea did the same on my fronts. They are stock 654 wheels. Had to take 3/4 inch off. Unfortunately the shorter side had the grease fitting on it, so I had to cut the longer side down. All and all the sit good. Now time to repaint and get new tores. -
If local id run not walk. If shipping forget it. FedEx / UPS these days are too expensive.
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So the forum has a limit of 0.97mb on the photo size so I can't get my phone to take a photo that low resolution. Anyways the leak is between the engine block and the aluminum housing that is located behind the flywheel on the front of the engine (pto) side. What does this involve. I'm not super interested in pulling the engine out of the tractor.
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Yea I just picked up some 654 front wheels for my 312. I has to cut about 3/4 of an inch off the axle tube for them to fit. It has wheel barrow tires on it, and lets just say idk if they are gonna hold up with the plow off the front. Needless to say, they are coming off and going in the trash, the wheels are gonna get wire brushed and repainted and im looking at putting trailer tires on it. I do like the look of the skinny fronts, just dont trust the tires. Gonna be a fun winter project getting them all ready to mount up.
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Got a 518xi that is puffing compression out the oil fill cap. It also puffs the dipstick out also. And it burns oil unloaded, not when engine is load and working which is wierd. Any ideas. I'm not good with the Xi series yet.
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Can you reply with the radiator hose part nu bet so we can source one on the future. Thanks.
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When done getting the shifter back in order, be sure to have a good shifter boot back in place. Essential for keeping the innards free of junk and water.
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There is a set screw you can see in the 3rd picture. It has a locknut (7/16) on an Allen Head dog point set screw. Need a 1/8" set screw wrench to tighten. If you loosen the set crew, you can pull out the shifter and check it to see if it is OK. We have a thread around here some where that shows how it all works. I'll try to find it for you. Here ya go.
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I’m too frugal to replace parts until I’m sure they’re kaput. Yes, it is possible for a leaking fuel pump diaphragm to introduce fuel into the crankcase. Caught early, the likelihood of damage is slight. A replacement diaphragm or pump is not a difficult repair. Oil change and new filter? Absolutely Voltage regulators do fail but preemptive replacement? Not something I’d do. Aftermarket carbs are available for the P220, but by the time you’ve removed the carb you’re most of the way toward a thorough cleaning. Unless there is internal corrosion or evidence of other irreparable damage, a cleaning with a standard rebuild kit install would be my starting point. Plenty of posts here cover being thorough, including getting under and replacing the Welch plug. Coil? if you have spark now, no. Plugs. Sure if it’l make you happy. Plug wires? If there is any sign they are not doing the job then yes. Transaxle oil change and filter? Probably unless you know oil is in good shape and proper filter is less then 50 hours old.
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Went through my 520H a few months back. Mine surged bad but it was due to the 2pc manifold leaking where it goes together. I rebuilt carb, fixed manifold, decarbed everything and adjusted the valves (probally forgetting some stuff) while had all the tins and stuff off. My carb was the one without the accelerator pump and everything I read about you would be better off without the accelerator pump carb so if I was going to replace your carb with another I would find one without the pump. Rebuilding mine was prety straight forward but I dont know about one with the accelrator pump. It is my understanding the carbs will swap from one to another. Here is a few pics for reference that might help ya.
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I was getting a lot of gas in my oil. Posts told me it could be from fuel pump diaphragm or from stuck float/needle valve in carb. So decided to do a total rehaul - new votage reg., new coil, plugs, oil, filter and rebuild or replace carb? Thoughts?
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Hey guys. I have a wheel horse workhorse 700 and the shifter is loose can almost pull it out It’s not shifting into gears. Does anyone know what I have to do to replace it or repair it?
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Frankj joined the community
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@WHX?? been using a silicone grease , on the UNDERSIDE OF THE BOOT ? the trans irregularities' are what causes the drag on the boot issue , grease enhanced slide , put boot on in place , let it show you , where it wants to be , then trap that spot with a wide tie wrap , on shifter stick , since doing that years ago , my shift boots are trouble free. always experimenting with any issue , basically , how can I stop this ? think the most interesting thing , is it always shows you the way , like a pto lever start area . a gold mine of detailing , magical difference , pete
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Yep. Same here and the last time I broke down and removed the Welch plug to clean behind it (hint, hint).
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What have you done "WITH" your Wheel Horse
ebinmaine replied to rjg854's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
I can't even begin to describe the amount of work that this woman has done in the last 4 months plus. When the dog was injured she needed 24-hour care for several weeks. That was an incredibly massive undertaking that many people could not or would not do. And then Just when that was starting to level out a little bit I severely injured my ankle... I was restricted from any movement for two weeks. Less so, for the next two. But unable to do much at all. At this point we are so far behind with normal daily living chores that we won't catch up till next year or the year after. -
suggestion ----- its always better to post your location and travel radius so people know if responding makes sense
