All Activity
This stream auto-updates
- Past hour
-
Solar Battery Tender Thoughts?
My_horse replied to 8ntruck's topic in non tractor related discussion
Not for me, it isn’t. Nor is cylinder deactivation, by whatever means they choose. Same with removing 2 cylinders and replacing them with a turbo. -
One question: Will it run a 60" mower deck without bogging down?
-
Looked for the bird that left this imprint on our window... No sign of it so it must have survived impact... Or, it's a ghost a bit early for Halloween...
- Today
-
Brings back memories of opening day in the '70s in Pa.
-
Hmmm. even with a slower reaction time, that thing hauls. I've made a few passes years ago down "The Asphalt Aisle" in the high 12 second range, but had an old Chevy 210 around me for safety. Going 11 or 12 seconds on such an open platform with a short wheelbase rocket is borderline insane.
-
https://www.facebook.com/reel/904406819289470
-
-
I'd use carb & choke cleaner. Starting fluid (ether) doesn't need compression to fire off.. been there done that.. plus starting fluid aggressively scrubs away lubrication.. It'd only prove you have spark enough to light it off , and it don't take much...
-
Opening day of Pheasant season in MA.
-
I have come to accept that is just how it is with leaves blowing around in the fall. I made up a holder from a bagger bracket to hold a regular car snow brush You can use anything to hold the brush. But the main point is that I can use this brush to knock leaves and debris off of the screen while running the tractor.
-
Betcha y’all didn’t know 291
SylvanLakeWH replied to 953 nut's topic in non tractor related discussion
- 1 reply
-
- 2
-
-
-
October 18, 1931, Al Capone was convicted of 22 counts of tax evasion and sentenced to 11 years in federal prison, fined $50,000, and ordered to pay back taxes and court costs totaling over $200,000. He was never convicted of any other crimes.
- 1 reply
-
- 2
-
-
First thing I would do is try starting it with starter fluid sprayed directly onto the carb. If it fires then you don't have spark or compression problems, just a gummed up fuel system from ethanol gas sitting in the carb, fuel pump, etc
-
Check with @Jake Kuhn - I purchased a NOS cross shaft from him for a similar deck a while back.. Another thought - that area can either be welded up & turned or cut for a sleeve... done right it should be good as new...
-
Hello I'm looking for coil ignition NN10730 or ONAN 166-0799. Thanks and regards Guido
-
found fiberglas hood rj35
Retired Wrencher replied to younggunfordfan's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Very interesting story. I never realized that they had fiberglass hoods on these. I guess I’m still learning every day about these tractors and how in the beginning they were made. Take your time with it and just enjoy it. -
edwood joined the community
-
GuidoV joined the community
-
After you buy 2 batteries, possibly a starter and the countless times the car is in the shop for stupid comm codes is the fuel savings worth it?
-
True about Kohlers with the ACR - that runs by centrifugal force - and is open under 700 or so RPM. That is what gives the Kohler its distinctive "putt-putt-putt" sound at low idle. Cleaning the inside of the fuel pump is an excellent recommendation - over time, the valves get crapped up and fail to seal properly..
-
Hard to check compression on these old Kohlers because of the ACR (automatic compression release} design. If it where me and especially since you have head gaskets on hand I would remove head and clean everything up (decarb) good and adjust valves while I was at it. Even if it is wore pretty bad, they will run if you've got fuel, fire and compression. More than lik;y will require a carb cleaning/rebuild and I reccomend replacing all fuel line and filters. The last time I went through this the fuel pump was full of trash also. If your not worried about keeping absolutely original an electric fuel pump is a great upgrade.
-
Does anyone else have this problem or better yet a confirmed solution? You will notice the foot pedal could interfere with a shield.
-
Solar Battery Tender Thoughts?
wh500special replied to 8ntruck's topic in non tractor related discussion
agreed. FWIW, Honda’s logic also looks at a long list of criteria when it’s deciding whether or not to shut off the engine. Brake pressure is one of them and I use that to game the system when I want the engines in my Hondas to stay on at a light I know is turning, I’m in traffic, etc. The Honda system isn’t particularly smooth, but it’s not too bad compared to the dozens of other cars I’ve had as rentals. Some of them feel like you’ve been rear ended when the engine wakes up. I think (not completely sure) that it also looks at the rate of change of the brake pressure when the pedal is being released to predict if the driver intends to allow the car to move. Very slowly ease off the brake and the engine stays shut down until threshold pressure is hit, back off fast and it lights up the engine even if I don’t release the brake all the way. They also look at demand for steering, battery charge, climate control settings, and if the engine is warmed up. I sometimes vacillate about whether I like the feature or not. I track my fuel economy fastidiously and it’s quite clear it makes a difference. I bought the same make and model vehicle two times in a row with essentially the only difference being this one has a different transmission that accommodates Start/stop and the last one didn’t. This one is getting 1 mpg better overall on the same driving loop as before. In 80000 miles, that’s 144 gallons better. I also appreciate the quiet when sitting at a light. The starters are rated for over 40000 cycles and I don’t keep a car forever, so this is worthwhile to me. Your mileage may vary Steve -
I bought a 1985 416-8 a few months back and now I an ready checkout the engine. The PO said that a few years ago he parked it for the winter and when spring came around, it wouldn't start. Said that he changed point, plug, coil, and did a little more work then gave up. Said that his Father in law bought it new in 1985 and was his baby. i think it is generally in decent shape but I question what a few years really is due so some of the rust on certain unpainted parts. Anyway that's basically what I know of its history. The PO did say that it was running great when he parked it. The day I bought it, I could turn the engine over by hand and felt some compression. Today I pulled the spark plug and put about a tablespoon of transmission fluid in the cylinder and then turned the engine over by hand a few times. No sticking places but almost felt like I could feel the pressure from the valve springs as I slowly rotated the flywheel. After about an hour I connected a battery and used the starter to turn the engine to check compression. My old gauge was reading around 40psi. I removed the gauge and added another tablespoon or two of transmission fluid hoping to get some around the valves. I re-checked the compression and this time it was around 35 psi. I have 2 gauges and one is defiantly bad so I am going to do the test again tomorrow with new o-rings on the hose. So, that is where I am at right now. I do have a few miscellaneous parts and gaskets. I also have 2 new head gaskets. Am thinking right now that low compression could be stuck ring or rings, issue with one or both valves. I can get a loaner leak down compression tester if need be. Where should I go from here? Should I pull the cylinder head off to inspect the cylinder and valves or focus on getting it to run a little and re-check the compression before tearing into the engine? Haven't changed the engine oil yet. Should I go ahead and change it now or wait and see if I need to go into the engine? I actually have 5qt jug of oil with missing label. Either 5w 30 or 10w 40 that i can throw in there for now and use it while trying to get it running and then flush it out. All advice on what to do is welcome! Thanks Charrie
-
Yea everything was clean - the tractor is in a barn a lot of stuff needs to come off to get to and into the blower shroud - checked as far back on the wires as I could - zero . 30 miles from home took everything I needed to get a points ignition back up - I had points and a plunger in my tool bag . Not near enough to tear the front of a tractor down . This is unchartered territory for me on a K series - do you know off the top of your head are those holes for the points and cap are tapped - checked the block had them - didn’t think to look for threads assumed they were … after I got home it hit me I may have thought wrong I have ignition wiring diagrams here for my 416 and C101 I’ll use those a reference and for the ignition switch # .
-
Thanks for the replies and advice. Apparently many people must miss that part about the oil hole towards the cam. I have seen that warning in several threads. Thanks for the explanation about part number castings. I had read something about the castings and then machining the bores. Last night I researched the piston because the one i bought does not have the wrist pin keepers with it and should have. I noticed that the keepers fit the K301, K321, and K341 pistons (according to what I found). That would lead one to believe that the wrist pin is the same size in all of those engines. Online google search shows the wrist pins are the same. So, That would indicate that the connecting rods could all be cast in the same mold but then machined on the crank end. (provided the stroke is the same. Anyway. i didn't buy these parts to use right now but rather in the future. Old hardware shop going out of business and I spent a few hours searching his parts. 0.010 is the closest I could find. I guess I should start a new thread to keep all of my questions in one place. I bought a 1985 416-8 a few months back. I am ready to start trying to bring it back to life and will need some help. Again Thanks! I feel much better knowing they are the correct parts.
