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  1. Today
  2. Friday #32 and Saturday #21, Fred Fiest - Bristolville, Ohio
  3. dodge78

    1975 Pug 4x4 by Bruce Mfg

    I will add more later.
  4. dodge78

    1975 Pug 4x4 by Bruce Mfg

    The tie rod ends have 173r or 173l on them. Most common on 1940-1962 Chevrolets like the Corvette and Belair. The rod go from the pitman arm to an arm under the seat (that swivels at the top) then the second arm goes to the back. Between the tie rods and tightening the gear, I might be able to get to 25 mph.
  5. dodge78

    1975 Pug 4x4 by Bruce Mfg

    The steering box I have been able to id yet, the casting number does not help id it. I know it is 6 turns lock to lock, 3 bolts holding it down. It has been about 10 years since I have gone to a salvage yard and I am finding there are maybe 2 or 3 left and those seldom have anything older that 2000 in them.
  6. dodge78

    1975 Pug 4x4 by Bruce Mfg

    This Pug is supposed to be able to reach 25 mph but only reaches 8 mph, I will cover that later, it was a hand full at 8 mph. I pulled the front fiberglass off. A nice bit of reengineering. The steering gear no longer has bearings on the input shaft (which was cut and rewelding crooked) . There is a brass bushing put in the top and a chunk of steel for the lower bearing. The steering wheel and shaft are too low to get a leg under making to difficult to get in and out of. I am thinking the pitman arm got changed because it is 18 ft between inside tire tracks when driven in circles. I read somewhere (of course I can not find it now) that the radius is supposed to be 10 ft.
  7. Hung the 36” gear drive under the 69 Raider 12 today just to get it out if the middle of the floor. The points conversion went well. This motor hasn’t been ran in decades. Before putting gas in it, I cleaned the carb which only had a little crud in the bowl, and i adjusted the valves. Should have had some breather gaskets on hand because they are hard as a brick and leaking a little, so that’s on the to do list. Need to do some wiring and both cables and change the fluid in the trans. Ordered the 6908 unicorn pulley and required idler standoff support, so the gear drive deck will work with the PT-6 pto. It shouldn’t be long until my 401 gets a well deserved break from its duties. The high back boat seat is very supportive for my lower back, but if i keep whacking my shin every time i get on it, it may have to go.
  8. dodge78

    1975 Pug 4x4 by Bruce Mfg

    Of course that led to finding leaking cylinders. LH-FD18292 for the left side and a FD18293 for the right. These fit 1960-70s CJ, 1957-73 Dodge trucks some AMC cars and others. Some where for the front, others for the rear.Some rears take a different brake line size and need an adapter to work with lines that are in the Pug. I had to get my adaptor at Autozone as they had the longest one to reach the bottom. I left the parking brake parts out as there is a drive shaft brake.
  9. dodge78

    1975 Pug 4x4 by Bruce Mfg

    There a rumors of part list some where on the internet, but I could not find any. Since it sorta ran but did not stop. It has drum brakes in the front axel only. I started with the master cylinder. It would compress but not release. So I took the Wagner number and traced it back to 1948-57 hudson, Packards, 1079-84 Hyster and more. Off to eBay to get a reasonably priced one. After bleeding the system, I took the drums off to free up the adjusters. The shoes were worn down and the Wagner numbers led to s154 from 1949-72 Fords, Mercury's, Dodges, Plymouths.
  10. I'm No. 24 in the Friday picture. Zigzag Kevin Ziegler, Dillsburg PA
  11. @ronwh Ron Whanger Mexico, Missouri #11 Friday.
  12. dodge78

    1975 Pug 4x4 by Bruce Mfg

    The serial number is 2615-160 which is day/yr - hp, 261 day of 1975 with 16 hp Tecumseh engine. The number is on top of the front frame on the right side (passenger) rear corner.
  13. dodge78

    1975 Pug 4x4 by Bruce Mfg

    I bought a 1975 Pug 4x4 made by Bruce Mfg in Bruce, Wi a couple of years ago. It is articulated and twists in the middle. I have been working on it a little at a time.
  14. Lathrop, Missouri just finished their "2026 Lathrop Antique Tractor Show" (video can be found on Youtube.) Lathrop, in northwest, Missouri, was my home town and I was one of the founding members of the club, although it wasn't nothing like it has grown into. I believe the video is about an hour long but it's much more than tractors. They have brought in a lot of different equipment and re-created a small town. I had offered my train layout to the club, (It's "L" shaped 11 feet by 22 feet) and they are interested in it but it would be had HUGE chore to move it from my basement here in southwest MO to Lathrop. Disassembly would be required and there is a bunch of wiring involved. I'm pretty sure I saw a RJ running near the end. I should attend the show some time. I recognized a small number of the folks in the video but when I return to Lathrop and my brother and I go to the restaurant for breakfast, those people, that I should recognize, are getting OLD!
  15. Bar Nuthin

    What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

    Found some vintage tractor lights I liked and got them installed on the C-160 today. Pretty close to the ones I put on the C-120. Will probably end up getting an LED upgrade before winter. Also mounted a flag on the C-120. My neighbor volunteered me to join a 4th of July parade with him. I think we may have recruited a few more now. IMG_5367.MOV
  16. sqrlgtr

    520h Engine Wiring Harness Routing

    will try and get a pic tomorrow but I believe mine comes from the other side under fan blower housing and up.
  17. Blue Chips

    What did you do today?

    I'm still messing about with a pile of connecting rods, trying to come up with the best possible set of six for the machine shop to rework to what I hope will be better-than-new condition. I have a few more coming soon. Today I finished reassembling two sections of the my M37's transfer case. It took several shim adjustments per the procedure in the manual to come up with the proper preload on the tapered roller bearing sets. With the companion flange nut torqued to 140-160 ft-lb the preload should be between 15 and 30 in-lb (without the seal in place). I managed to adjust them both to exactly 24 in-lbs, figuring that since they are new bearings, I'd go just a bit above the mid-point, but still well within the target range, to allow for some slight break-in (and I corrected an obvious mistake in the manual while I was at it ).
  18. Handy Don

    What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

    Ju Just found this in my notes: Staked cross shaft 1515 bearing changes to the 101480 bearing which is a 1630 2RS
  19. BTW thank you Richard for doing this along with loaning your cat prod to others.
  20. Handy Don

    Let’s talk TIRES

    And probably almost 5% slower with the 22’s!
  21. Handy Don

    What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

    Getting the bearings out of the holders is unpleasant and, though I’ve looked, I’ve never seen those parts separately at the show. I’m running the best pair from three donor decks.
  22. The inboard seals have fallen out of the cross shaft bearings and the guts appear to have been exposed for some time. They aren't super rotten, but they are patinaed to match the rest of the tractor.
  23. 10 & 12hp short frames
  24. jimt1971

    2026 Big Show Raffle

    Sorry Karl I had it, but I snagged the WHCC 250 banner.
  25. Handy Don

    What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

    The cross-shaft bearings are probably ok, but the spindle bearings are probably worn. Part # 1508 spindle bearing (4) ==> Koyo B-1212 needle bearings. You’ll also need new seals 1303 oil seal (2) ==> Timken 312518. Be sure to help your apprentice out during spindle disassembly because the order of components is critical and, if it was a later model with thrust bearings, they’ll almost certainly look like greasy washers! (From the photo, there was a serious dearth of grease on the gears--they should be buried in grease!) Lastly, be prepared to put some shims behind one of the cross-shaft bevel gears (between the gear and the step in the shaft) upon reassembly to take out gear lash. It took me three times to get this right and in the end the shims left about .05” of lash to account for heat expansion. Good luck to you both! PM me if you come up with other questions.
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