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pfrederi, while stationed on guam i was assigned care of a particular M818. i would wipe it down with diesel all the time. best looking 5 ton in the bomb dump! the 'oil it down' treatment was great protection from the salt air environment on that island too.
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lfwolfe joined the community
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Strictly a work machine but I would look at the kawasaki mules. Their 4 cylinder is by far the best motor in any sxs.
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AS has the short base for short frame and later shaker plate tractors.
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Great thoughts! I have soaked Allis Chalmers implement clasps in buckets of oil to free them up, filled a 24 hp Kohler to the brim for a year to get it to break free from seizure, why wouldn’t it have more advantages?
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I rely on the sheer weight of cast iron! I’m not sure how much it weighs but it’s heavy. I bought this roller over 40 years ago! I think I paid 20 bucks for it. For years I’ve been wanting to add a rack to it to put cement blocks on for additional weight but never got around to it.
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What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
wallfish replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Hmmm, what do you charge for about an acre ? And I KNOW for fact you have spreaders for some fertilizers too! See ya next weekend! LOL (Gotta get all that crap done before the engine show season begins and it's creeping up on us!) -
Probably creeps more than those sprays for rust penetrating bolts and nuts loose. Thin it with some carb spray and use for that. I tried gear oil for a steering wheel since a leaking trans will never have a seized hub. It certainly didn't pop right off but it worked well. It didn't happen fast but it stays there instead of evaporating so quickly. The cap on the wheel was missing so I just filled that cavity and walked away. Think is was a week to 10 days before getting back to it. Put a few drops of gear oil on there and have a race to see which one goes farther, not necessarily faster.
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What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
Sparky-(Admin) replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Dethatched the yard today, first time I’ve even done it on this yard. The 867 was awarded the job and performed flawlessly. -
Found another use for the S X S. Bringing tools to remote location to work on equipment not near the shop / garage. This was recent when working on the Farmall Super A this past fall. Found myself walking back and forth bringing tools etc then thinking what am I doing ? get the Can Am out. The cross bed toolbox is right behind the rear window under the green compressor hose. That is full as well. Unlimited use's for sure and great MPG.
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Does anyone know the difference between the Kohler k321as and the k321s
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Which Year Wheel Horse I have and 310-8 on Hood?
Railboy replied to Railboy's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Hello 953 nut, First, Thing is this, I thought the White Wire was a Coil Wire that gave the Coil Power for the Spark Plug completing the Magneto to have Spark? Hence it goes to the Key Switch and when you cut the Key off, it (White wire) kills power. Second, Connect the Purple after the Solenoid to the Light Blue before the Key Switch? Now why am I doing this on my Tractor? See, I understand that going into the Oil Sender is a Ground, and when the Oil Sender actuate's it completes a Negative Circuit? Am I wrong? But if I am wrong I am wrong, but wondering what I am doing in doing it? Please explain for the Oil Sender from all I have gathered is a Negative Circuit grounding out a relay. Something I wanted to do and this and this is not possible I don't think do to the Blown 15 amp. Fuse and tractor is running, I would like to put a meter to the wiring through there shielding to check voltage, but, with the blow fuse, I have a dead circuit to follow and its possible Power Output, which negates my intentions from the beginning, testing I ideas. This is why I am into doing and have been doing continuity test on everything. Thing is I have not melted anything down yet, and hope to remain this way. My tractor is a 1987 Wheel Horse 310-8, so bear with me on collaborating the diagram to my tractor? But yes, see in the (Starter Motor Circuit) Diagram how things work, but how to test before just "connecting" wires? I have Alligator Clips for Jumpers. Yes, I like to be thorough, and yes, I can do circuit test before making "long lasting wire connecting" for testing to see if they work before making them permanent. And all I am trying to do is keep the Fuse from blowing and get the Dash's Voltmeter working to charge the battery. Which brings me back to the mid section and beginning that we need to look into. Does not the Stator have two wires and not the White wire which I was told is the Coil Wire? On my connector they are Yellow and Black, these I was told are the Stator Wires, this is the engine side of the connector. And something here I picked up on, the Black wire and Yellow wire on the engine side of the cover do not co-inside with the diagram, forget the deal there, but the white remains white thus is the coil power supply from the ignition. Sorry, sorry if the above is wordy. Going over a lot. - Yesterday
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I'm wondering about the 'oil roller', I hope that's on a flat surface, I'd sure hate to see that get a way and start rolling on its own C-85
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This is an old thread that a new member hijacked.
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Fixed my issue. Indexed the eccentric to match my other tractor, it was almost 180° opposite. Took out the linkage rod, greased both rod ends and lengthened the rod slightly. I now have full travel in both directions and forward speed has improved.
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@WHX?? @JCM Good idea framing the receipt. I laminated the receipt for my Work Horse that I bought brand new so I can hang it when I show the tractor.
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Which Year Wheel Horse I have and 310-8 on Hood?
953 nut replied to Railboy's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
The white wire connects your key switch to the battery through the 15 amp fuse while the key is in the run position. If it is charging the battery leave it alone. The dark blue wire that goes behind the engine cover allows the magneto to produce ignition power while the key switch is in the run position, your ignition works so leave it alone. If 12 volts were to be applied to it you would allow the expensive magic smoke to come out.; The wiring on these units is not very complicated. You have no low oil switch, remove the low oil relay, (you have a picture of it to go by from yesterday's post) connect the Light blue and purple wires that are on the relay and that will be the end of that conversation. Remove all of the light blue wires and relay highlighted in yellow, your oil switch has already been removed. -
I prefer water because when I am finished with the roller I can drain it and move it into storage.
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Never thought of that one. Please don't give me any ideas.
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Ah. Ok should be good then
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Easy short frame transmission pad repair
SylvanLakeWH replied to Bert's topic in Transmissions and transaxles
And why, why??? Do they only last 75 years?!?!?! -
Easy short frame transmission pad repair
Ed Kennell replied to Bert's topic in Transmissions and transaxles
Ya think Wheel Horse knew these thin tranny plates would break in 75 years and made the mule drives usable as a repair? -
Yeah, I wouldn't trust it in a plastic roller either. I made my roller from a 4 foot section of 24" steel pipe with 3/8" thick walls. It holds 50 gallon of oil and probably weighs close to a half ton.
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I use Penetrol so the tractor doesn't end up looking like a dust mop
