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Wow.....that weld . No way that bar is straight after that, uh "repair". I only have a 52" Xi deck to compare/look at, but one thing to note is the "P" clamps that hold that bar to the deck. The one on the right of my 52" deck near the deck height adjustment lever is solidly mounted. The one on the LEFT side is mounted on slots so you can loosen the bolts and level rear of the deck left/right. Please ignore the massive amount of rust and rot. I was hoping to rehab this deck, but it is unfortunately complete trash Right side bracket Left side bracket
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Picked up another road killed deer This is the second fawn to be killed this week at the same place 1/4 mile from the house. I haul them to the woods where the eagles, fox, and coyotes can safely feed. Most of these accidents could be prevented if the drivers would only stop and wait instead of slowing down to watch the deer that just crossed in front of them. They usually hit the second or third deer that they never see. Too sad to take pictures of the fawn but Bossy was glad to see me. I always take her an apple.
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What would the show be without you there? And Mike makes the count complete.
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Hitch questions? What am I missing here?
953 nut replied to Fj40z's topic in Implements and Attachments
Your transaxle should have a lift cable conduit like this one bolted to the top of it. just need to get the cable from Wheel Horse Parts and More and attach it to the rockshaft where it says rear lift cable. -
I found these fluted knobs while looking around online…. They have shifter knobs too.
MainelyWheelhorse replied to MainelyWheelhorse's topic in Implements and Attachments
I got the gold plated parts today. They are very, very, close to the original. If memory serves they are supposed to be an 1/8 smaller diameter but you can’t feel a difference. The 3/8-16 thread seems a bit small though. I’d assume they are pressed and pinned on as there are no threads on the adjustment shaft. -
Or buy both and put the plow on the Rolls Royce
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If the engine handles the task at hand and is not consuming a lot of oil I would consider it a keeper. If you do intend to rebuild the engine here is a thread that will be worth reading. Though this is a small block Kohler build thread the steps taken are the same as your Magnum 14.
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Bmanfoui joined the community
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Click on the fuzzy picture. Belts and blades listed on the page that comes up.
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Changed Price to 275
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Changed Price to 500
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An aftermarket option. https://www.lilredbarn.net/product-p/k321-master-standard.htm I have had very good luck with parts from this seller Very important to know what parts are needed before ordering a kit. Measure your bore and crank pin before you order. This way you know if you will need an over sized piston or an under sized rod. Always send you new parts along with when you take the block or crank to your machinist.
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Momma says I can’t haul with it until it’s done!
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Horse (TOW) Mater
Lee1977 replied to Goldnboy's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
That's going to be hard on you lift cable. The hydrolic jack can lift a lot more then that cable can hold. It's best to have them mounted in a receive hitch. I have.towed tractors with mine as low as it goes it will still lift the front of the tow tractor. -
georgeswain9751 joined the community
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Dang it Kevin, you're giving me trailer fever!
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I rolled out the entire door, cut it to (excessive) length, and rolled it back down. My glue pattern kind of duplicates the idea of an ag tire. I figured a diagonal grip to the wood would ensure maximum grip to a glued surface at any given time. Time will tell if that is a good idea. Like the trailer floor, I used the e-track box to roll out the bubbles and slack. A few passes center, left, right, repeat, and it seemed to flatten out well. I think the ramp worked out better than the trailer floor, but it needs to hold things by itself too. The floor will have e-track to secure it also.
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Of course edges are left long at this time. I’ll trim it down as needed. I rolled out some rubber and glued the bottom edge in place. I trimmed the lift cable brackets out as close as I could. Then, I reinstalled the hinge.
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I took some measurements to verify the hinge was indeed centered, then pulled the small ramp off. Funny tid bit, that’s enough weight loss for the door to begin closing itself!
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On to the back door, and little ramp. I think I was awake half the night wondering how this would work. Solid piece of rubber over the hinge set? A scrap piece and a few screws proved that it would not last very long. One fold and the rubber already had stress marks. It would be only a matter of time before it snapped and defeated the purpose.
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I got the side door cut in. I left the rubber a bit long, so it can shed water of course.
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Thanks for those pictures of some very eclectic machines!
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Agreed. How long since you had the head off to de-carbon the combustion chamber?? You may wish to start there.... Gives you a look-see at the piston (for excessive oil use), the valves, seats, & guides for issues. Remove the breather, check the valve clearances. Then decide if it's a simple cleanup & re-gasket job or a full teardown... If it is a simple upper end job, all the work can be done with the engine left in the tractor. As @Handy Don would say - "there's no need to guild the lily".
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Hitch questions? What am I missing here?
clueless replied to Fj40z's topic in Implements and Attachments
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It's a 41 year old kohler engine, it's going to to smoke a little and burn some oil, you can always clean and adjust the valves and clean the carb other than that leave it alone.
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Runs good I guess I’ve never had one of these motors till now. I don’t have a comparable good running motor, but this one seems fine. My plan is to strip and repaint and replace broken and worn parts this winter. I get I shot of smoke about every 10 min when mowing out of the grill. I just figured the valves are probably getting a little rough. It also uses a little oil. Basically I’d like to have as much of a new mower as possible by spring this mower is one of the best cutting mower’s I’ve ever had.
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@BR2 just curious , what is this engine doing? typically , any recent purchase / pickup , needs a lot of things . my base line is , to separate possible , reasons , like run engine on a seperate gallon of heavily treated fresh fuel , eliminate , tractor tank and related , fuel line issues , drop carb bowl , clean out , engine oil , HOW MANY HOURS ON THIS SET UP ? looks like typical neglect to me , would already have a penetrating oil soak down , recovering that paint , let that stay for days weeks , while you tinker . that valvoline 10-30 VR1 , oil is made for flat tappet cams , also enhances engine VARNISH REMOVAL , that causes engine smoking . break it down in stages , verify as you go , hope you gain as you go . that deck set up also needs help , pete
