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My impression is that they're nowhere near as common
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The B&S single L head service manual has some diagrams. If you give me the engine Model and series I can look it up and scan the pages this evening
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Excellent safety wire job. Note that if either bolt loosens, it tightens the wire.
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I had the same issue of the carb bolts getting loose on the 5hp B&S on our wood splitter. This turned into more of a disaster, I tried taking off its muffler so I could have more access and both of them broke off. After I drilled out the broken off bolts and Helicoiled new threads, I used some Allen head bolts to remount the carb. I cut off an Allen wrench so it would reach the bolts. That allowed me to get those carb bolts very tight! Then I used a wire on the muffler bolts.
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Found an operator manual that has carb info
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The only B&S engines I have are the "Classic" 3-1/2 HP with the oldy-but-goodie PulseJet carb on top of the tank... and the plastic wind vane governor.
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Best I can do on the bottom side. There is nu way to really see anything with out pulling the tank and carb Sorry
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Engine B&S 5hp HS 133200 134200 135200 136200 137200 OM.pdf
gwest_ca-(File Mod) posted a file in Other
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Often there is info in the B&S operator manual also if you can find one.
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Flat head...Thanks Paul. I tried, but things are so tight I could not see the gov. linkage till I removed the fuel tank. I may have to pull the engine to reassemble the linkage from the bottom.
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5 hp BS flat head, but it is on a generator the orange thumb screw is the speed adjustment... Is yours an OHV?? I have an OHV some where if that is what you need
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I don't know what specific Packard connectors you're using, as there are various series. The Packard and Douglas connectors that are used in my military Dodge M37, which do not use a roll-over type crimper, are probably quite different from the connectors you're using. For the heavy-duty male military-type Douglas and Packard 'bullet' connectors in my M37, I use one of my four-prong crimpers, which produces a really tight crimp. In the example below, I cut through a crimped connector to see how tightly the copper wire strands were crimped. It looks like a nice tight gas seal. I probably have several dozen different wire crimpers and dies, but for the heavy-duty military-type female 3-piece connectors in my M37 (which consist of the connector body, a tubular spring around the end, and a seamless sleeve over the crimp area), I've just been using an ordinary big-box-store crimper, which I think does a good job.
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The Horse is already out of the Barn, but... And THAT is exactly why we need to pull out the Cell Phone & click off a couple of pictures at different angles prior to disassembly. Priceless in that situation. Cell phone pix are better than the digital camera in that you can zoom up & around for fine detail.
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This reminds me of the neighbor lady who borrowed my Tecky powered push mower years ago. She mowed part of her yard in the morning. After lunch she comes over and says it won't start, I go over and the carb is laying on the deck. I reinstall it and she mows some more. Next day she's back and ir won't start again. I go over and the carb is on. I pull the cord and the whole engine spins around! 3 bolts had fallen out.
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The local NAPA store had them in stock. Now, I've discovered that none of my crimping tools are of the automotive 'roll over' type. Summit Racing sells some, so I'll get an order placed.
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Ouch! Can’t help on images, sorry.
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The 5 HP B&S on my Trac Vac was becoming hard starting and needing choke. So I started to remove the carb and found it was loose from the block which is probably the problem. The two bolts were loose about 3 turns. While I was in there, I decided to remove it and do a cleaning. I could use a manual and pictures of the throttle and governor linkage to help me do the reassembly. M/N 135232 Type 1036 E1 Code 930813 YA @gwest_ca TIA Garry.
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1054 (953) Hydraulic Unit Rebuild
702854boy replied to 1054 Project's topic in Transmissions and transaxles
That might mean the ends of the original spring broke off in the holes on the pump and you get to go fishin- 2 replies
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- wheel horse
- hydraulic lift
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What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
rjg854 replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
I don't think he has that problem, every time he mows his lawn, it seems like it's always a different -
Not being a smart ass, just asking a legitimate question so we will know where you stand. If your phone won't download the manual then go to a library, use a public computer and read it over.
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What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
Bar Nuthin replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Sounds like someone needs to add another Wheel Horse to their stable. -
Not positive but think the wiring on that PK is pre-safety switches which will make the rewire easy, the diagram below should do. This thread tells the whole story. As for the plug I would drill a small hole ( 9-64") without going all the way through, tap it to 8-32, run a bolt into the hole and use a straight claw hammer to pop the plug out. This thread has lots of good information. This uses a 103990 key switch
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@SamHit my first insight , recommendation ? new shift boot and silicone grease the UNDERSIDE . INSIDE OF IT ? insures sliding over the IRRELULATRIES on top of trans , also like a wide tye wrap in top of boot to shifter stick , after it shows you where it wants to be , like a hi milage atf fluid for cleaning / flushing , personally put miles on that , every gear / range , also look for a CLIMBING LUBE RATING , that has a consistent FLUSH DOWN RATING , ALWAYS CLEANING , would also favor , giving that a flush down and, KROIL in movement areas , just my own 2 cents , pete
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Well smart ass I could not down load the manual. My phone restricted it for some reason.
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I used to have a job at a calendar factory, but I got fired because I took a couple of days off.
