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Or... downward movement is done with the full piston area; upward is similar, but you have to subtract the diameter of the rod from the piston area.
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Gas dryer has a screaming idler pulley, so replacing the idler, drum rollers, and belt. I much prefer working on tractors opposed to appliances.
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Yes, but.... You say the hole is on the bottom.... caused by having the float set too low and it was spanking the bowl?? If so, that needs to be addressed. You may need to solder two holes. Notice the soldered over hole on the top of the float near the pivot. It is there up top for a reason. The float is made from 3 pieces - the upper half, the lower and the tab. Soldering the tab to the upper is easy, not so doing the middle seam. Without the vent hole, the assembled float becomes pressurized, blowing out the last bit of solder. Better to have to go over the vent a few times to get it right. Also, opening up the vent allows you to use low pressure compressed air to purge the insides. Is all this worth it - probably not. Replacements are plentiful and reasonably priced...
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Yes you can solder the hole closed...after you get all the gas out. use a soldering gun not a torch
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Electric conversion
wh500special replied to Richard’s 314-8's topic in Wheel Horse Electric / Battery Powered Tractors
I’m not endorsing them since it’s still somewhat new to me, but I have had great luck with the LiTime batteries in boats. They are a good value. Li batteries (regardless of brand) have some quirks. The internal heaters usually are activated when a charger is connected to preheat the battery before charge current tries to push in. Once a battery is warmed sufficiently, applying a load to it will keep it warm enough to run things effectively even in cold temperature. I didn’t look up the specifics of your battery, but most (probably all) of them have built-in functionality in their BMS to shut them down when the interior temperature drops below a threshold. There seems to be some hysteresis between the off/on temperatures, so if you park that in your yard on a cold day and it shuts down it could take some measurable charging time to get it switched back on. the other thing I’ve noticed on some other battery applications (at work, not using LiTime batteries) using this battery chemistry is that the ability to push a high rate of current drops off pretty significantly with temperature. I think they are much more kinetically limited than a lead battery. We were testing last week at -25F and my specialty battery that will easily put out 150A at 32F seems limited to about 15A at -25F. This probabky won’t matter to you other than the point that when it’s cold and your battery is chilled that you’ll probably have plenty of power to drive around without much noticeable performance loss, but it you try to pull a plow or something you might not be able to do it until the battery warms up. We are cranking an engine with this battery and have to do a lot of tricks to get it to work when it’s done that cold. It’s somewhat counterintuitive, but there is a lot to be gained by wasting some power putting a load on them thing for a while to get the battery warmed up before working it. Once it’s warm, it stays that way pretty easy. Another quirk is that estimating the state of charge of the battery from its voltage level is all but a waste of time. A drop of a fraction of a volt at the top end can represent a big decrease in stored capacity. At the bottom rend, the voltage can hold relatively steady for a long time right up until the limit where the battery shuts off. If getting an estimation of how much power is left in the thing is useful, you’ll need to measure the current in and out of the thing over time. There are gizmos that do this for you which aren’t cheap. if your battery has a Bluetooth connection, it probably takes care of state of charge monitoring. I initially didn’t see the point in having a connected battery, but see it as a nonnegotiable now. I’d suggest leaving the charger offboard. No sense subjecting it to vibration and environmental factors if you can avoid it. An appropriate Anderson connector makes it easy to hook it up. This summer I might outfit one of the E-141s with Lithium if LiTime puts their 100A-hr 12 volt batteries back on clearance or has the reconditioned ones available again. Runtime is amazing and unlike a lead acid, you get to use the whole capacity (almost) instead of just half. On a usable power basis, these batteries are potentially less expensive than lead acid. Last fall, they had 100 A-hr 12 volt batteries for right at $100 apiece. It was a steal. They weren’t Bluetooth, but at that price it’s not out of the question to improvise something. I’m enjoying your project! Steve -
I rebuilt the carb on my 416 a month ago or so and it has been running like a swiss watch. Yesterday I started the tractor to warm it up and it ran for seconds and then it shut off. I smelled gas real strong and found it spewed gas out the carb front. So this AM I pulled the carb and found this. A pinhole in the float which I figure would not let it float and shut the needle valve off flooding it. So my question is can I make sure the gas is drained and evaporated out of the float and solder over it? I do have carbs out in the outdoor shed but who knows where and it has wintered up here. The pinhole is at 6 oclock position. Thanks Jack
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Looking good, there! For the last one I replaced, I put a dab of hot glue in the knob slot before tapping it back onto the lever arm.
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Throttle knob ready to install. I like the T style knobs the best. Hair dryer used to heat knob for easier installation and so knob dos not crack. This little hair dryer is used a lot in the shop whenever I feel the heat gun might cause damage. Block of wood and dead blow hammer used to tap knob into position. Throttle knob installed.
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Flat rock storage facility!
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'74 C160 Tecumseh engine tractor. Let's put it to use!
Handy Don replied to ebinmaine's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
Yep. I consciously try to avoid pulling on the wheel. The other obstacle on geared tractors is that pesky lift arm sticking up that makes swinging your leg over pretty challenging. -
Take a close look at the nylon cam plate, may be mater of not moving your direction/sped control shaft # 52 far enough if it has cracked.
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To my eye, one of the real classic station wagons. Parents of my only-child-and-and-wealthy college roommate bought him one.
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.No point touching it until the “Why?” and “If removed, then what?” questions had sensible answers, right? Like the Aswan--either the planning never really fully grasped the silting situation or addressing it wasn’t sufficiently remunerative to the decision makers economically or politically.
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did you ever get my post
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Lift. PTO, and Tach grips ready to install. Mid tach latch ready for grip to be installed. Mid tach latch grip installed. PTO lever ready for grip to be installed. PTO lever grip installed. You will note that the grips used are the older style as I don't care for the larger new style ones. Hydraulic valve control handle ready for grip to be installed. Hydraulic valve control handle silicone applied to retain grip. Hydraulic valve control handle grip installed.
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I don’t know my birds of prey well, but I am continually attempting to improve habitats out back. As much as I don’t want mice, I know they have a place in the food chain, and they move in with the habitats I create. Along with having my chickens and cats around the place, I have more eagles, hawks, coyotes, and other predators around here. It’s a nervous balance of mine, to keep the habitat growing and keep our farm animals on the ground.
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@oldiron613 Rob? @squonk?
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Foot control pedal assembly ready to install. Foot control rod end ready for Heim joint. Foot control rod end Heim joint jamb nut screwed on fully. Foot control rod end threads greased. Foot control rod end Heim joint screwed on fully (this will be adjusted later). Foot control pedal slid onto shaft. Foot control pedal retainer installed . Retainer is just a large nut drilled out and a set screw added. Heim joint bolted to foot pedal. Heim joint bolted to foot pedal with temporary non locking nut (a nyloc nut will be installed once final adjustments are complete).
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WH 200 series (vertical Shaft) attachments NOS
pfrederi commented on pfrederi's classified in Wheel Horse for Sale
No will not fit a Dseries -
Yep, I bought those from a vendor up here and replaced them when I put the replacement on and they are still good. From the info earlier it sounds like the plug loose/falling out. It went from awesome to nothing in a very short time. Looking forward to pulling it down to see and will post back what I find. This thing has had me pulling out what little hair I have left, lol.
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Betcha y’all didn’t know 11
SylvanLakeWH replied to 953 nut's topic in non tractor related discussion
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Charge pump operates the lift and feeds the actual drive pump. You have a hydro gear so the is only one swash plate. When you move the motion control its shaft tilts the swash plate. It is when it is tilted that it generates the high pressure needed to drive the hydro gear motor. Check the shaft that the motion control is mounted on. Does the shaft turn with the arm? (#53/4)
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C-Series Hybrid Idea
peter lena replied to Easton Rich's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
@Easton Rich rotational drag is the issue , when you minimise that , the difference is amazing . often refer to , my pto driven belt to the mule drive , easily moving by hand , to attachment . another glairing bearing hang up is BELT FRAYING , caused by incremental spindle stoppage , causing BELT BOUNCE , as you can see I am suggesting , verifying and insuring smooth / easy pulley / bearing movement . there are a number of related bearings in those pulleys . with ceiling fan lubrication , grease , that consistently , whine with noise . @midpack has the cure with the soft start , module , would check that out , wheel horse , lever / linkages , are at best minimal , small improvements , make a world of difference , good luck with that , pete -
Check forward and reverse valves springs are known to break. One of are vendors have them. Clean and check valve bore and piston for smooth operation
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Just saw the breakdown and will check that. Thanks again for the quick response.
