All Activity
This stream auto-updates
- Past hour
-
The replacement coils are shaped differently, some require a hole to be drilled and tapped and special mount. The stalling you have sounds exactly like an ignition module failing, usually from heat and is more prevalent in summer but can happen any time. When you have a shutdown, immediately check for spark. The original ignition modules are hard to find and very expensive, there are aftermarket kits that contain the module, coil, condenser and mounting hardware on the Bay for as little as $83. I have seen good reviews for the cheap kits. That plug on top of the plow frame is an electrical knockout plug.
-
What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
Blue Chips replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Agreed. For a threaded-hole situation like that, I would usually (as you mentioned) countersink the hole a bit to provide clearance for the little radius (fillet) between the underside of the bolt head and the bolt shank. Of course a washer would also do the trick. -
@CD Long Jr https://www.google.com/search?q=hitch+pin+clips&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS866US866&oq=hitch+pin+clips+&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyCggAEEUYFhgeGDkyBwgBEAAY the end of plow frame swing levers , like a hitch pin clip , pushed thru to last big hole ? once there , they will not fall out or get lost . plow swing area is called STEERING QUADRANT , the steel rod that is saposed to pull on that related compression spring , is attached to your squeeze lever , every stage of that , requires , a snug / lubricated fit , to relay your intent to the , quadrant slide pin , inside the swing arc area , note your lube on the pop off inspection area , you want to pop off that cover to show you how that works , penetrating oil , then red aerosol spray grease , extension tube , to pin point spring / slide pin , also the plow frame swing hole frame angular mounting , https://www.google.com/search?q=hitch+pin+clips&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS866US866&oq=hitch+pin+clips+&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyCggAEEUYFhgeGDkyBwgBEAAYgAQyBwgCEAAYgAQyCAgDEAAYFhgeMggIBBAAGBYYHjIICAUQABgWGB4yCAgGEAAYFhgeMggIBxAAGBYYHjIICAgQABgWGB4yCAgJEAAYFhge0gEIOTE1OWowajSoAgGwAgHxBUFJFm6aUYwJ8QVBSRZumlGMCQ&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#sv=CAYS6QESABosMmFoVUtFd2lFazRIQXBjT1NBeFVjRUZrRkhYUTVFVHdRZ2kxNkJBZ2RFQlEihQEKFDExNDcxMTYwMTYzNDQ1ODAyMzc0EhM1MDUyMDc3NzgwODk4NTQ4NDgxGgAiFDExNTU1MDQ4NzIzNzc3MzAzOTc5KgAyFDE1NDg1MzE1ODcxOTUwMTA0MjkxOgBKAmhnUgBiAGoAigEAoAEDsAEAwgEAygEA2gEA4gEA8AEA-gEAkgIAMABCLTJhaFVLRXdpRWs0SEFwY09TQXhVY0VGa0ZIWFE1RVR3UXJvZ0dlZ1FJSFJBTiCK_aW_DTACSgoIARACGAEgASgB, this detailing , transforms plow set ups , glad you are on it , pete
- Today
-
i hate wheel horse blowers
Ed Kennell replied to horseman with no horse's topic in Implements and Attachments
Yes, I said that because I assumed you had hooked the side chains in the link adjacent to the side chain and they were still too loose. Like Paul said, hook the side chain in a link near the cross chain. Then If they are still loose, remove that side chain so you can hook it shorter. The excess side chain links can be cut off or just secured with the chain tightener or a heavy tie wrap. The side chain does not have to be hooked in the end link if fact most are not. Use the link that makes the chains as tight as possible. Here is a picture of the not hooked in the end link And the excess links secured with a rubber chain tichtener. Hope this helps. -
i hate wheel horse blowers
pfrederi replied to horseman with no horse's topic in Implements and Attachments
First lets make sure we are talking about the same things. Your finger is pointing at the side chain. (Cross links are the ones with Vs) The other end of the chain you are pointing at should have hook of some kind. If chain is too loose move the hook up to the second or third link fro the end where your finger is. Do the same for the other side chain. One side may have a couple different connectors depending on the brand Take a picture of the other end of the chain ..both sides -
I've ordered a coil.
-
I had a second horse, so I could just switch the coils and fixed the problem. I did a search for "bad coil" and a ton of good threads popped up...try that.
-
i hate wheel horse blowers
horseman with no horse replied to horseman with no horse's topic in Implements and Attachments
you said to take off a cross link, i think that if i take off that much then it till be too tight, would taking off one or two of the side chain links on each side work? or would that mess up where they sit? -
That what the little research I've done suggested. When I looked up the coil on Parts Tree, it doesn't look like mine?
-
What he said. See if you still have spark when it dies.
-
What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
Sparky-(Admin) replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Needed 2” full thread, not available at stores but McMaster Carr had em and shipped me 10. Star washers?? Not sure the were needed but I installed em anyway. They were cheap, unlike the bolts. And the spacers, they were sitting on a guys table for sale at a tractor show and my son grabbed em. No brand name on them that I could find. -
That discription sounds like a bad coil. I had one on my 857 that did exactly that. It's like the coil heats up, doesn't work and needs to cool off to start again.
-
1973 10hp 8spd Revival/Budget Resto
oldlineman replied to Chris689's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
Check the rubber boot around shifter for tears, replace to stop water getting into trany. -
I have a full stream between the second fuel filter and the carb.
-
Cap looks new, but I'll try it.
-
Well here is an interesting development! This truck I want to build of my father's.... Turns out the guy that used to own that company is a classmate of my mother. She called him and he is going to try to hunt up some pictures. Niiiiice.
-
Really?!?!? Most others might be able to do without taking the fender pan off. Yep yer gonna put Brian out of business with beads like that!
-
I don't recall if you did this. Remove the fuel line at the tank shutoff valve and check for a free flowing stream. If not, remove the valve and throw the screen away Clean the valve and replace with a new grommet..
-
Frozen pin... penetrating oil... whack it with a hammer... repeat... when free... copious amounts of oil then red tacky grease everything in the swing area...
-
1973 10hp 8spd Revival/Budget Resto
Chris689 replied to Chris689's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
I believe I read something similar in a hot rod article. I’ve honestly never researched into it too much I’ve only ever gone off of experience. Growing up riding dirt bikes and snowmobiles my dad only ever ran premium in all our stuff. Bikes, sleds, lawn equipment. He always just said it’s better on the small engines. As a kid I never asked why. Once I was out on my own I adopted the same practice. It wasn’t until I built my F150 a couple years ago that I really saw a difference in engine performance. It was a 1991 F150 302efi. I only ever ran 87 in it. The truck gave me a lot of problems (not fuel related) the first year but when it did run it ran great. After the 3rd time it left me on the side of the road with my 4 year old I decided to convert it to a carburetor. Ripped all the factory efi out, factory ignition and redid all of it. The only thing the ECU controlled was the fuel pumps. Once I started driving it I had horrible issues with detonation. No matter how much I changed the timing I couldn’t go over 1/4 throttle without it pinging something fierce. After troubleshooting for a week I realized I still had 87 in the tank. On the second tank of 91 I set timing back to factory and that truck ran perfect. I did mess up once or twice not paying attention at the pump and ran 87, pinging immediately came back. I’ve worked on many vehicles and built a number of small engines over the years, and this was the first time I saw octane ever make a difference. -
Engine stalling, loosen the gas cap, the vent may be plugged creating a vacuum the fuel pump can't over come. after it sits vacuum disappears.
-
Installed weights, mounted blade after the hydraulic lift decided to work. Pin that unlocks the blade to angle is frozen. Can I pry up the cap on top of the blade for access to the pin? Engine idled down & stalled. Wasn't out of gas, but I filled her up anyway. Now she won't restart? Restarted after 30 minutes. Plowed about 10 minutes. Engine started spurting, then died again & won't restart again. The coil is not bolted down? Both bolts are missing. Anyone know the size? I have plowed and died 3 times. Each time I wait 30 minutes and she's fired up, I plow 10-15 minutes, she dies. I wait 30 minutes she starts, we plow, she dies. I really like the tractor, but this diein' & waitin' cramp's gotta get fixed. Gas flow isn't the problem. I have a full stream when disconnected from the 2nd fuel filter closest to the carb. I will loosen the as cap next go round.
-
1973 10hp 8spd Revival/Budget Resto
ri702bill replied to Chris689's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
I have read that the base ethanol 87 octane is a "Dirty" fuel - not as filtered & refined as the higher octane grades. Good enough to be pushed thru a fuel injector nozzle at high pressure; not sufficiently clean enough to be used in a small engine that has .012" or so feed holes (orificeseses?) in a carburetor.... -
@WHX?? glad for your mod , typically functional detailing , enhancing / insuring has its way . realise I constantly refer to similar issues / problems , but more often than not that suddenly makes it all good . levers / linkage areas , and related movement set ups , are basically simple , my reference to roller stooling around , has led me to many finds / to improve , think that visual change to a shoulder bolt , on lower plow squeeze lever , to plow frame point , letting you literally dial in what you want , holding that with elastic Lok nut , for swing quadrant slide pin , made my day . then basically using that thought to other spots . might even expose a related bearing hang up , ex , my pto cone does not have the brake pad set up , removed it , spins silently for years , on lucas grease , needle bearing , 3 tractors , smooth / easy / silent . thank you for being you , pete
-
Smell like French fries when yer plowin'...
