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Thank you @Thegearhead0324 it looks like his. Your picture of the front mount if you zoom in what is the threaded rod or bolt that’s there? We don’t have anything like that.
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What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
cleat replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Just fluid fill them. Same amount of weight without scratching the paint. -
My ol budy@cafoose just swapped one into a 520HC. He may have some ideas on it I'm no help on the Briggs. Maybe @kpinnc will have some insight also I know he has swapped in a few also.
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Side shot Saturday... AND SUNDAY !
Sparky-(Admin) replied to Sparky-(Admin)'s topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
C-145Auto with new rear rubbber (23x8.00) and new/used front rubber (18x6.50) -
On trying to start the donor motor, It would start on spray and did this 3 times, then started blowing the 15A fuse every time I turned the switch to on! The de mystifaction guide tells me nothing. Now I have no spark. Should have been a straight swap, but I guess not.
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Why not just a simple solution. Store the battery somewhere else...? Or simple disconnect switch hidden under hood?
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Good afternoon. All WH sickle bars are basically the same design, except with the mounting as there are different models for different tractors. I’ve made quite a few posts about my sickle bar in the past and the one I recently got at the big show this past year. There are also a few members on here who are sickle bar pros and can tell you what models fit which tractors. Anyways, here are a couple pictures of what it should basically look like.
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Yes. It would 100% need to be well hidden. Additionally, most horns are switched on the ground side, while the ignition and starter relays are switched on the power. It may well be better to wire it up so that the ignition switch always activates the horn in start, and there is a hidden button or something somewhere for the starter. I actually wouldn't be all that hard to re-wire the cigarette lighter to activate the starter. Building it into some existing control is the ultimate camouflage.
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Looks like a PowerKing my uncle bought last year, but with better paint.
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Afternoon, Saw this marketplace. Is it a cobbled together parts tractor? Painted to look nice. Asking $900.00
- Today
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What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
CRF857 replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
I have four blades staring at me. I can mount two onto a 520, and a C141. Also onto a Cub Cadet and an Elec-Trak. Thinking if I mount all four it won’t snow this winter.🥶 If I do push snow the 520 with a 48” blade is my first choice. -
What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
Sparky-(Admin) replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
The fronts on the C-145 are severely cracked and leak down…in stock here I had a pair of 18x6.50x8’s on WH correct wheels that look great! And the extra inch of height over the stock 16x6.5’s will work well to get the plow up a bit more. -
All of that crank grinding happened right next to a bearing. I would be inspecting/replacing that for sure!
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What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
squonk replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
I got a plow frame out of the shed and it's leaning on a wall in the back shop. Still to nice out to be moutin snow eq.! -
Thanks You - bonus for the thread pitch - I’m going to start working on a parts list - the only thing that makes me nervous about the whole job is that dust cap in the block for plunger - getting it out might be easier said than done . I read at another place a person knocked it into the oil pan and fished it out - that’s not going to be an option - this block sits between two frame rails and pushing anything into the crankcase doesn’t sit well with me on an in frame running engine …
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What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
Sparky-(Admin) replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Hung the new winter/plow tires on the rear of the C-145 Auto today. Can’t push snow without weights, really going to bother me to scuff up the new wheel paint but that’s life -
Mowing just grass I hardly ever need to clean it. Grinding leaves in the fall using the 48" deck, I might need to brush it as often as once a minute but with the brush in your left hand it just takes a second and you don't need to stop. The kohler screen spins so that is likely why you don't need to clear those as often. The Onan engine also has a spinning metal screen just below the stationary plastic one so I have considered removing the plastic one and run it like a Kohler to see what happens.
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Never seen balance marks like that. Clean up the journal. Check it good for run out. I would see if a local shop could magnaflux it. I have my doubts it's still usable. I have a couple 321 cranks from broken engines that looked better I saved.
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Another thing to consider with the fuel savings. How much does the start stop system add tothe cost of the car when you buy it? Let alone the extra cost getting repairs done.
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Oh yes, I forgot reading about the ACR, thanks. Was planning on taking the head off todo a cleaning and inspection but was hoping to get it to run first if possible. When I do remove the cylinder head, should I also hand lap the valves to clean the seats up a little? Yes, all new fuel lines and filter. Yes, pretty sure that the carb will need rebuilt. The choke cable seems to be stuck and i believe it's at the carb, not the cable. From what I have read, it should have a Carter #30 on it. I picked up a kohler float kit the other day that i think fits this carb. All it has is the bowl gasket, float, and needle valve. Not sure if that will be enough though. Kohler # 25-757-03-S As to fuel pump, It still has the original metal pump. I picked up 2 rebuild kits that I believe fit this pump but I have no idea what all of the parts are for. Hopefully I can find some info on rebuilding the pump. #230675 Po\O said that he couldn't get the engine to start. Yesterday when attempting to check compression, I couldn't get the starter to engage and used a screwdriver to jump out the solenoid. I need to find a wiring diagram for this tractor. 1985 would have been owned by Wheel Horse, not Toro, I believe. The diagrams that I have found are Toro and have the Magnum or twin engines. I thinking this system uses direct battery voltage from the ignition switch to the coil? Points ground the negative side of the coil causing spark? Does anyone know if this tractor uses a voltage regulator or an electronic rectifier? I haven't found either yet. But neither of those should affect the starting? Just the battery charging? Thanks Charrie EDIT I just found this file here on the forum Kohler K341S-71371 with battery ignition and 3 amp unregulated charging system Lights work off AC current from a second flywheel stator only when the engine is running 1985 416-8 model 31-16K801
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Here's a semi unrelated example of today's vehicle systems being overly complicated: My own 2011 Honda Ridgeline. Bought it used. one dome light went out so I brought it back as it quit the day after I bought it. The garage looked at it told me it was fixed and guess what? Now no dome lights work with the doors! They tell me they have to order the whole lamp assembly. I doubt their word but ok it's under warranty. I wait 3 weeks. I secure the wiring diagram and it's an overcomplicated mess. I determine the body computer is at fault as it's what supplies the ground for the circuit. Well the lamp comes in and they install it and of course it doesn't fix it. I tell the store owner his guys must have smoked something in the body ECU when they tested it the first time. He relents and orders the $400 ECU and when it arrives they have to get it programmed. The ECU fixes the lights. All this so the dome lights dim slowly and stay on for 30 seconds when the key is turned off. In the old days the lights grounded right at the door jamb switch.
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I worked on enough vehicles in my lifetime and sold enough batteries and starters to know the costs involved in these systems. I follow a somewhat local shop on YT that deals with this needless crap on a daily basis. His own wife's van left her stranded because the back up camera failed for pete sake. The more complicated the machine, the more prone they are to failure.
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Hey all, long time no see. I’ve been here just lurking in the shadows. I’m sorry if this is a repeat post but I’m Looking for some help. My son @WheelHorse_Kid bought a 42” sickle bar a few weeks ago. Seems to be in good shape and looks like it’s all there but I could be wrong since I’ve never owned one. He is trying to mount it on his Commando 8 and Right now the wobble box is sitting on the ground with nothing there to hold it up off the ground. I’ve searched here but naturally any time I type what I’m looking for I get thousands of hits that have the word sickle bar in the post. Unfortunately I can’t post pics because my account has been down graded and my debit card was hacked last night so I’m locked out of that. Can anyone help me out with some pics or what we are doing wrong? Thanks from both of us.
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The volume of air pushed through by the Onans is, frankly, impressive. Consider also that two cylinders already need twice the air of a single!
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Two tractors and lots of parts
davem1111 commented on davem1111's classified in Wheel Horse for Sale
Well, I'm now under pressure to get this stuff gone faster than I thought. My neighbor might buy the 416-H, will find out in a day or 2. If that sells, I'll let the rest go for $600 less what I sell it for, but if no one seems to be interested any time soon, I'm already starting a "Free Stuff" table out by the road.
