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Oxidation - akin to rust in so many ways....
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Thank you. Click on the fuzzy picture in this link.
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For the sake of clarification, the key that some might not be catching is that a lot of grease is dielectric which does not conduct electricity and is not intended to be "within" the connection. Lithium and other dielectric greases are meant to protect connections, not make them. Clean and make connections and then apply dielectric products to seal them from moisture and keep them from corroding. You want to keep water away from electricity and dissimilar metals.
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What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
MainelyWheelhorse replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
That’s what I thought when I was figuring out how far out to cut the exhaust extension. Enough to not be a damage magnet but close enough to not damage the decals/paint. So far so good. -
Thanks sir I have this updated .
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@WHX?? absolutely it’s worth what he’s asking . Distance way out there sometimes makes it tough with diesel near $6 a gallon . He sure does have a clean , well maintained collection.
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2026 Big Show Buy/Sell/Trade Thread
whtractors24 replied to Pullstart's topic in Wheel Horse Collectors Club Show
You’re a sucker for that era 😆 ! -
I have taken up the habit of brushing a light coat of Super Lube on all connections. Use an acid core brush to apply it. Seems to keep corrosion from wire terminals. A tub like this lasts a long time. https://www.grainger.com/product/44N722
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I’m quite surprised that it didn’t sell for that. @608KEB I/We would like to see some more pictures of not only the LSE, but all your nice collection 👍🏻
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Finally got a chance to work through that list of tests. The only one I didn't do was the second to last one about checking the ground because I was a bit confused about the jumpers and terminals. But I did the final one in testing the ignition switch. When I tried jumping the terminals that were connected to B and S nothing happened. Is there a further test to see if the ignition switch is bad or does that likely narrow it down? Thanks for these tips, it was very helpful.
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If I had $2800 to spend that 420 LSE would be mine. I've become a pretty big fan of them
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nORM lived close to the northern border. From his house he could see a kilt!
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1/25 scale Wheelhorse models. Any of youave one?
Easton Rich replied to Raider69's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
I bet one could ask Eston hobbies how they went about it? -
What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
kpinnc replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Plenty far enough away. A couple of mine are closer than that and they don't damage the decals. -
New-to-me Horse (and other stuff) Hauler!!
ebinmaine replied to ebinmaine's topic in non tractor related discussion
Went to see Libby's Service Station where my truck is... Very positive so far. He's using it as a spare time project in between other things, which is exactly what I hoped he would do. Rick has laid out and organized all the parts, and has some of the initial assembly done. He says it all looks OK so far without having attempted actual installation. I'm bringing them a full set of rear brake shoes, springs, and hardware Monday afternoon. We both figured he might as well go right from wheel to wheel with ALL new parts. -
1/25 scale Wheelhorse models. Any of youave one?
8ntruck replied to Raider69's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
I remember building a Risolone Special, but, I don't remember er Uber it including a Wheel Horse. -
Yessir. Good catch!
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Changed Status to Closed
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Eaton 11 - Bypass Aux Ports on Charge Pump
Handy Don replied to Babbo's topic in Transmissions and transaxles
If you are keeping those components in the loop and adding some cooling in place of the valve plumbing and valve body, you probably will be good. The Eaton/Unidrive WHs rely on the transaxle as the reservoir and their vent is through a hollow handle in the dipstick. I think you are completely correct that there is an air pocket preventing full filling. I’d close the inspection port, run it through some gentle motion for a minute, and then retry. -
Had that happen many times.
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You'll need ferry tickets and be prepared to pay about £1.59 per liter for the UK locale (about $8 per gallon). Bollocks.
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@953 nut and I both preach " CHECK ALL CONNECTIONS!!!! " I put a starter in my C160 about 4 years ago. It was used. Always fires right up and isn't overly noisy. I mowed this AM and shut it off. Mowed this afternoon and parked it in the driveway so I could blow the grass off of it like I always try to do. Tractor sat for about 4 hrs and when I went to start it the dreaded " Solenoid clicks but it doesn't crank." Everything looked pretty good and testing at the starter terminal revealed 12.9 volts with the key in the start position. Here is a picture of the starter and cable. Really doesn't look bad at all: I put my hand on the terminal with the key in crank and a spark!!! So I yanked off the terminal and inspected it. Looked fairly clean but I got some sand paper out and polished things a tad and she fires up so I don't have to push it! Just goes to show you what a little "fuzz" on a connection can do.
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May have to add that duty to the navigator.. We generally pull in off the slab gas up and grab a smoke damn the cost. Pulling off the slab in search of cheaper fuel is sometimes a hassle not worth it if you have to deal with toll booths and pulling a wagon load of tractors. Particularly going through the countries of Indiana and Ohio. Illinois being the absolute worst.
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It's now confirmed...y'all are a bunch of enablers! Meet my B100 8-Speed
Handy Don replied to BradKahler's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Here is a 2-cavity side mount that is what you need to slip onto the two flat-topped pins. Just be sure to orient the female connectors with their metal slots aligned with the openings in the housing! -
Eaton 11 - Bypass Aux Ports on Charge Pump
Babbo replied to Babbo's topic in Transmissions and transaxles
From my limited understanding and from what I've read, the Peerless transaxle is the working end AND reservoir for this system. The manual I have says to fill through the vent hole until oil seeps out of the inspection hole, about half way up the back end of the transaxle housing. I question this because of how much fluid came out vs how much went in. About 4qts came out but only about 2 went in. It could need some run time to purge the air out of the system.
