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2026 Big Show Buy/Sell/Trade Thread
Pullstart replied to Pullstart's topic in Wheel Horse Collectors Club Show
@WHX?? you swap a good hub on there and I’ll take that funky one off your hands free! -
I would also run a fine bead of silicone or similar on the seam of the two piece intake manifold. All the way down the seam on both sides. That, along with cleaning the carb worked wonders for my 520-H.
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I kinda think you're correct sir. I was watching your video trying to figure out why your tiller was bouncing even with a bag of concrete on it. It just never settles in like mine does. Thought maybe your lift cable was too short or something. Your tiller should drop down to the belly of the gear case (or a little lower) when the lift arm is lowered. I've used my tiller on bright red clay that was hard as a brick, with no concrete bag and it never jumped like that. It will rock the tractor in a hard spot but the tines actually pull down and dig. If anything it will push the tractor even in low range sometimes.
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I'm looking to purchase the rear bracket snow blade assembly for my H267. The two main parts needed are the Bracket blade mount (92-7070-03 and Mounting Bracket 93-1389-03. Hoping someone has parted out a Series H260 and has a set for sale. Thanks for your consideration.
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I bet Toro is quite proud of them. Guessing you googled part numbers and scoured sites for one? An alternative might be a gently used one there should be plenty of those around.
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The one I picked up ain't much better. Kinda rough and you can see a slight curve to the blade so it looks like someone might have been wacking things that don't move. Savable tho ... a stout piece of flat steel for a reversible scraper blade would be slicker than cat crap on linoleum and it may come to that. They coulda used a bit thicker material for the blade on the 50 inchers like a Simplecity but it is what it is.
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I have a 520H 73501, 5904080 and am trying to find a new switch. the 111216 switch has been superceded by 103990 switch and frankly im lost. The B spade on my switch has just about fallen off and id like to find something local instead of ordering it from Toro. Are there any other switches that cross reference to this one? If not what switch do i need?
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Tines are on backwards, I'm sure of it.
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Watched your video and one on YouTube. Pretty sure your tines are backwards. If so, switch them from side to side. For the record I have never owned or used one of these.
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I've discovered a forum about Honda outboard that looks reasonable. After reading that, I think I am going to order a full pump rebuild kit and a spare impeller. There is a line of thinking that mixing new and old pump parts might not be the best of ideas. I did not change the cup that the impeller runs in last year - it still looked good to me and was still solidly in its plastic housing. Who knows? The other think I wonder is how fast do those impellers come apart? The number of impeller shards I found inside the pump suggests that it might happen more in a matter of seconds than minutes.
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Real nice of you Bill really. Any profit I make goes to a new rosary and cassock for @Achto
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@HyperPete Are the tines on correctly?
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Take the top off the carb. Clean the bowl and main jet with cleaner and compressed air. Be careful not to lose any small parts, or drop them down the intake. Do not use sealant on the gasket when reassembling. You may have to clean it several times.
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Thank you and your Family for your Service.
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Yeah thats what I was thinking.. best way to do that? can I get away with just removing the 4 screw from the top of the carb? then use something like permatex orange on reassembly? I normally remove gaskets and use stuff like Sillycone or TheRightStuff. Never had anything leak yet. Thank You!
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2026 Big Show Buy/Sell/Trade Thread
WHX?? replied to Pullstart's topic in Wheel Horse Collectors Club Show
On Sale!!! $400.00 $300.00 Working Man's 856. Fine fine steed that is ready to work. A real chick magnet. Pulled a plow nicely at plow day. Patina to die for. New to check list, some updated wiring, fluids changed, new shifter boot, new petcock, new carb & throttle cable. Good battery. Lots of TLC done. Left rear tire leaks air but very slowly. Service K181 runs great. Right rear hub a bit to wonder at but holds tight. If you wanna get fussy I'll throw in a good hub for a extra Jackson. No extra charge for broken in saddle. -
2026 Big Show Buy/Sell/Trade Thread
WHX?? replied to Pullstart's topic in Wheel Horse Collectors Club Show
Really nice pair of 6-12 ags. 6 Ply & NIB never been mounted. They do run tall. $180.00 Also have 6-12 rims. Best pair for $80.00 INCLUDES FREE VALVE STEMS!!!!! $50 for one go buy your own damn valve stem... -
Good to know! Makes me not as hesitant about sticking with the original motor. He said it ran strong before it had an issue.
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Only issue that I have had with those engines is fuel pump leaking or failing. Honestly an easy repair with still available parts. There is how ever the failures due to neglect
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What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
Blaine replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
I’ve been tinkering with my 702 over this past week, going over it, putting together a mental list of what it needs with hopes to find at the big show, but the list keeps growing. I’ve kept the 702 stored indoors for over a decade now after the steering sector snapped. I have my trusty 401 that has been keeping my yard mowed for almost 30 years, so the 702 project has been at the bottom of lifes list of projects. But now the deck on the 401 is sounding louder than ever. Bearings are worn, shafts are worn, keyways are rough, but the deck is still solid. More oil is on the wheels than is inside the trans. Hubs are loose on the axles. I lost a wheel a couple weeks ago. Hub set screw threads are gone, so there’s a blob of weld holding the wheel on the axle. It’s in serious need of some TLC. It did get a fresh predator motor this spring. The last one was on there maybe 12 years. Still ran but was getting low on power and temperamental starting. Thought i’d get 702 going because I know the deck is good, or so i thought. It’s weird how time makes you forget stuff. Luckily it was just a woodruff key for the left side had sheared. So that’s all good now. Since someone had got all happy with nickel rod and welded just about everything together on the rest of the tractor, i just mig welded what was left of the sector to the shaft, mainly to make it easier to move around until i find replacements at the big show. i bought the 702 15-20 years ago as a “ran when parked”. Well sure enough, after a battery and carb n tank clean, it was running, but it seemed tired. At the time i had planned on occasionally plowing snow with it so no big deal. Shortly after replacing all of the tires, the sector broke. So once again, it was a “ran when parked”. Since then we had moved. The new tires got swapped on to the 401 because the original tires were coming apart and the front wheels were rusted through. The new place has a fairly steep bank sloping to the rear of the property. After fixing the deck on the 702, welding the sector, and charging up the 12 year old battery it fired up. I took it for a lap around the yard. At first i thought the deck belt was slipping, but no. That’s how quiet it’s supposed to sound. Lol. Poor little 401. But boy was that 7 horse struggling. So LOUD. I made the mistake of going down back. Had to disengage the deck and pulled the throttle out all the way, i barely made it back up the hill. So last night i was thinking about how loud it seemed and just so little power. So this morning i went out and sprayed soapy water around the head and cranked the starter. Sure enough, bubbles coming out near the exhaust side of the head. AH HA. So i pulled the head, gasket wasn’t complete toast, maybe the bolts were loose, but i zipped them off with an impact gun, so no idea. Soaped the valves and aired the exhaust and carb. Had some light bubbling, so i pulled the carb and breather and checked the valves. .006” intake .023” exhaust. Good enough for me. I got on the phone and located a new gasket locally but I figured i couldn’t make a 25 minute drive in 9 minutes before they closed today, so i cleaned everything up and put it back together. Finished mowing the level area of the yard with it. Struggled getting it out of all 4 gears every time i had to back up. It started to get a little better, but i’m hoping a new shifter pin will fix it because the shifter has a lot of rotational slop. A new pin fixed the 401 when i had the same problem. I did drain the trans and filled it with ATF to flush it out. Hoping it comes around. I checked the bore, 4 times. I kept getting the same thing. 2.882”. I don’t know what that is in dog years, but that’s what it is. I could push the piston around, as there is a serious gap to the cylinder wall and the piston is stamped STD. Obviously no visible crosshatch, but no scoring either. I couldn’t pick up on any rod noise, but it’s hard to hear anything over the steering shaft buzzing in the aluminum tank. After mowing with the 401 for over a quarter of a century, the 702 just felt odd. Maybe it’s just the whole low power, but it definitely seemed geared lower too. I like a 32” cut as i have obstacles and tight areas. I can wheel the 401 around quick and easy. I just don’t see that happening on the 701. Always loved the easy steering on the 401. All 4 tires are foam filled, and i have a pair of Taurus rotors that i filled the vents with lead, 25# each, so the 401 sticks to the ground. I’ll probably be looking for a complete correct deck for the 401 and another motor for the 702, some front wheels (the 702 is currently rolling on my old 867 tires and wheels that i foolishly parted out back in the 90’s) So yeah, that was my day. The 702 cut beautifully, but it’s had a rough life long before i got it. It might be best as yard art. - Yesterday
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I found a grader blade for sale last year - - was in ok nice condition, not abused -- So I cleaned off the rust and then added fresh paint - had to buy a missing part and then it sold in couple days for asking price of 425 - it's one of those items that if someone wants one the $ value is whatever is important to them - made a couple dollars for the grandsons college fund
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I’m curious if there was any residual water in there over the winter. I take extra care with my pressure washer to thoroughly flush with RV antifreeze before winter storage.
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In my situation my cab bolts are essentially double nutted. There is a washer under the floor with a hex on it, and threads inside. Then there is another washer with a nut welded to it facing the ground at the bottom. My bolt broke off in the cab leaving both sets of threads tight and no way to grab it. I couldn't get a weld to take either, but I did melt the threads enough I could push it in with another nut.
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I recently spent an inordinate amount of time searching for non-ag 6-12s and even considered 6.00-12s (which fit the same rim but have different profile). The was only one other option, a knobby style with a rounded profile. I bought the Firestones and I’m very satisfied.
