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Then and Now sells good kits but I have to agree with Paul about using a low pressure electric pump. https://www.thenandnowautomotive.com/antique-auto-parts-store/Kohler-Fuel-Pump-Kits-c196218002
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Opinion on a Seat
Thegearhead0324 replied to Thegearhead0324's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
Got the cushions in the mail today, got new screws and mounted them to the pan then to the tractor. I think the logo pops. Matt did an excellent job. I’d take better pictures but it’s raining and I don’t want it wet already -
What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
Chris689 replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Finally got to split the trans for the 10-8 today. Sure did have some water in it. Got it cleaned up and reassembled. Got it back installed but now needs some new woodruff keys for the axles and drive pulley. In theory it’ll be back up and moving under its own power Monday. -
Side shot Saturday... AND SUNDAY !
PeacemakerJack replied to Sparky-(Admin)'s topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Zach cuttin’ lawn for the first time this season on BlackBeard! -
DP4168 joined the community
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What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
CasaytheMann replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
No non-ethanol stations anywhere near me, unfortunately. I just looked at the Owner's Manual. It says unleaded gas with less than 10% ethanol is ok. -
use an electric pump save time money and frustration and avoid gas in your crankcase
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Ok, New Topic, Wheel Horse Rectifier Ignition?
Railboy replied to Railboy's topic in Wheel Horse Electrical
Well, I am not certain it was the Volt Meter or the Ignition as of yet. Thing is when I get back the parts, if I get back any parts. But question is this, what is the conclusion you have based on, most often Volt Meters go and ground out vs. Ignitions? Yea, I am the Newbie here, but just wondering what has been seen being most curious? -
Very interesting project. I've been a fan of the Starter/Generator systems for several years because of the unique noise at startup and good overall dependability. Looks like you may have a 1974/75 ish B80 with the 4 speed. Someone has transplanted a mid 1960s S/G 8 HP engine in there. There's an S/G belt cover missing from the side of the engine. A few points of interest. This tire MAY be low on air. The blue rectangle is where the battery would set. The yellow oval can be a point of contact between the Starter and the battery. Watch for that. There's a shelf that goes here in blue. parts are easy enough to find. I may have one if ya need it. That's where the "B80" decal would have been. The tag just below that would have the serial numbers to identify the tractor. This circular piece in yellow appears to be the old coil holder. Not sure where it belongs on your "modified application".
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Filed the block to clean it up where it was grounded and added an additional heavy ground wire and extended it to frame where I ground off the paint. Did not make a bit of difference. I forgot to ask "gwest" about why I would have a pair of matching switching up next to my shifter (up on helm next to the steering wheel). I already have a brake switch down at the brake. As I mentioned previously, I have more switches than the wiring diagram calls out. Not that this would affect the starting, but I think I'm going to switch back to the original rectifier that was on it. The replacement doesn't quite look the same with regard to the aluminum fins on the one side and I never truly verified the old one was bad anyway. My next step is to get inside the engine by removing the shroud and have a look around. I also want to pull the starter off at this point, to bench test it. Other than that, I know nothing else to look into on this thing. Any help would be great....as usual. Thanks in advance.
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Good to know. The interesting thing to me is that the shafts for the gears are there, just no gears.
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has anybody bought a kit lately that included the check valves,
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1998 Tradewinds, Diesel Pusher Motohome
Pullstart replied to Pullstart's topic in non tractor related discussion
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@WHX?? I think the one on your 702 is what I need. There’s no room on the clutch rod grunion but on the brake rod it looks like it will fit. Thank you for checking I’ll keep hunting
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But hey, the stuff inside is mostly dry. 😉
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What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
Handy Don replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Non-ethanol seems to be more available in areas that have lots of agricultural equipment, boating, and general aviation customers. Metropolitan areas, rarely. Where it is available, it’s frequently 91 Octane and priced at or a bit below super premium. Often it is a separate hose or even a separate pump. In some upstate NY stations, I’ve seen the pump have its own island! When storing non-ethanol gas be sure to keep the container very tightly sealed. Since “pure gas” has no alcohol to bind with moisture, any water that enters the container (condensation, for example) remains separate--possibly causing rust or being transferred to your tractor when refueling. -
I’m soaked from the rain, but making progress!
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Hi. Can anyone recommend a replacement seat for my 1997 Toro 520H? One that bolts right up without having to modify. Thanks!
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Hi! I am looking for the black plastic PTO cover for my 520H. I've checked ebay and facebook market. Would anyone on here possibly have one for sale? Thanks!
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Bill , I do agree your way is a lot better and I may try that on my next one but I havent had any trouble so far. I do believe if you can keep hub from walking in or out you want have any trouble removing them. I actually haven't ever thought about trying to drill into the axle but I probably will try the next ones I do .
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I respectfully disagree on not having an undercut. The WH grub screws have an inverted conical point that when tightened, bite into the object below. That is fine on the screw over the key as there is clearance between the top of the seated key and the top of the keyway in the hub. Not so if you add a second screw without a relief. The two resulting semicircular burrs on the axle make it more difficult to remove next time... I solve this by setting the hub in position flush to the end of the axle and tighten the original screw. With the second screw out, use a 5/16" drill bit (the 3/8-16 tap drill) thru that hole to produce a full 118 degree dimple in the shaft. loosen the first screw, install & tighten the second screw, tighten the first. That second screw tip is now in full contact with the axle - under the OD. Easy to remove later, and the hub will not walk either inward or outward. Look at the later 8 speeds that use two screws per hub - there are 2 flats on the axle shaft.
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Hi - I have a follow-up question. I posted earlier about the broken B100 PTO switch. I tried to fix it, but it seems difficult. Could anyone tell me how to bypass the wire without using the PTO switch? I am thinking of installing a switch between the conneting wires for safety and operation purposes. Any help is appreciated.
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What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
Sodaking27 replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
I’ll be sure to send you a message. Thanks.. -
Might mention second set screw is 90° from first one and doesn't require a flat spot on axle. Most may already know this, but some may not.
