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AI is going to kill us all. You first when she sees that! LOL
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I agree with @ri702bill about it being backed into or something similar. I think the mule drive has been injured as well...
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Move the steering wheel until these two parts are vertical, then take a look at the front end. It may provide clues as to where the problem is.
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Not a bad idea - especially for those of us who are getting older and wiser. Just tonght, I got the MF GC1720 loaded on the trailer. I shut off the fuel for transport and noticed that the charge light was on for the emergency trailer brake battery. Not knowing how much it will take to charge it from the truck battery, I unplugged the trailer from the truck. Got to remember to plug the trailer in before I leave in the morning. Should leave a note on the tractor key to turn the fuel back on, too.
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Thanks Achto: I have one for the early 60`s K241engine. Those have no ACR.
- Today
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My response
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Me neither. Google didn't know it either. I've heard of gas wash, but ever oil.
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I’m not familiar with the term oil wash?
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Happy Happy Horseplay
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I would say then is pop the head and check for oil wash. Never hurts anyway to check the bore, valves & decarbon.
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This should help her! https://tractordata.com/
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I had a similar experience one as well. I went to buy a Mr. Fusion for my Ranger, got it home, and there were still banana peels, coffee grounds, and some old beer in the bottom. We had people try to pull this crap all the time when I worked at Advance. One guy would come in a few times a year with trash bags full of parts, wanting to return all of it, no receipts for any of it, half of it was house brands from other stores, and he'd threaten to call the district manager and complain if you tried to argue with him at all.
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I don't understand... Why does she need help?
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Appreciation was not what I had for it in he moment. I was already rather annoyed because the rodent damage actually caused an electrical fire, and so in addition to everything else, and that harness not being easy to do, everything, including myself, was covered in flame retardant.
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I'll second that
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If you didn’t have a good appreciation of the Explorer’s oil pump before that...
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Hahahahahahahahaha
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Not a bad plan. A few years ago we had an Explorer towed in after a critter got at the main engine harness. In the middle of refilling the magic smoke the customer calls up and asks for us to change the oil. I pulled the filter out (top mounted filter), drain the oil the next time it went up, filled it when it came down, forgot about the filter, and finished the harness about 2 days later. Fired it up, and it ran for about three seconds before it evacuated all six quarts, out the top, all down the engine, and shut off because of the low oil pressure safety.
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How much disassembly is required to replace the auger driveshaft key? Will the input shaft pull out from the back? Or do the cases have to be split? From symptoms I’m pretty sure that’s why my auger stopped.
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Diesel oil has higher zinc content also which is better for solid lift engines. I run 30wt year-round but do have one of them magnetic heaters I slap on oil pan if I think I will be using tractor when it's getting down to freezing or below. All modern oil is better than what we used to use years ago.
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Well, now you know where to start on getting it going again!
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My K161 7hp on my 701 leaks oil at the oil pan and block and if you park it in the gravel or dirt shed you dont even notice the oil slick thats under it, but you sure can in the concrete shop . May not be your problem but the spark plug you show doesn't appear to be that bad to me, if they are burning oil badly, they are usually wet with oil. Just throwing this out there because I thought mine was burning oil bad but turns out it was just marking its spot.
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Thanks. This is what I would have guessed. I’m thinking that the next time I do an oil change I’ll tape the key to a checklist that I can review before trying to start the engine!
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My wife figured out how to create AI images
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Same here.
