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jtb1689 joined the community
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Car AC problem/symptom and question
Blaine replied to wh500special's topic in non tractor related discussion
Your pressures suggest a restriction, a new expansion valve is where i would start. Sounds like it’s sticking. Being that the high side is well over 300, the compressor appears to be in good shape, or at least capable of making good pressure. I would still inspect the high side of the expansion valve for compressor debris which may have got caught at the expansion valve and has caused the restriction. Sometimes you can hear a sticking expansion valve if you listen closely to the dash, idle up to around 1500rpm, and a lower blower speed so you can hear over top of it. Silent for a few seconds, then a few seconds of hissing in the dash accompanied with a brief gush of cooler air through the vents, then back to warm, and the cycle repeats. Yours sounds to be just stuck. On the newer (i’m old so everything is newer now) small capacity systems, it can be rather easy to flood the evaporator with just a few ounces of being overcharged, so be careful not to overcharge it, and check or just replace the cabin air filter if you haven’t already. They are often overlooked. -
What is your preferred solution to use in your ultrasonic?
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3 x 79-2920 Recycler Blades - NEW
Bar Nuthin commented on Bar Nuthin's classified in Wheel Horse for Sale
Changed Status to Pending -
The AC in my ~2010 Ford Edge started blowing warm air this spring. I like driving with the windows open so chose to ignore it, but now my daughter is home from college and using the car so there’s motivation to do something about it. Last summer it did the same thing so I took it to a local (very competent) shop who sucked it out, checked for leaks, recharged the 134A to spec, and tested it. That seemed to fix it for the most part, but periodically it would blow hot for a while then clear up and cool reasonably well. So something was wrong that was only showing up periodically and not when they had it. They indicated it was actually overcharged quite a bit when they started messing with it, so it must have a history with a prior owner not getting hood cooling from it. For the last couple weeks I told my kid just not to use it and I’d look at it eventually. Today was eventually. With the engine running and the AC running wide open in my 85 degree garage I am getting around 25 psi on the low side and about 325-350 psi on the high side. At idle. That seems high on the high side. Compressor stays on and isn’t kicking off due to overpressure, so maybe this is normal but it seems higher than most references call for. Revving the engine to 1500 RPM dropped the low side to 11 psi and increased the high to about 400psi. I get cool air out of the vents, but not cold. Measured 52F-55F using outside air (not recirc). In the sun with the greenhouse this car has, that’s not really adequate to do much useful cooling. To see what happened and get another datapoint, I trickled in a little additional refrigerant and the dash temperature rose and the pressures went up a little bit (55F-60F/30psi/350-370psi). That suggested to me that I was going the wrong way so I called it quits there. I considered bleeding some out to get another datapoint, but i wanted to be able to sleep tonight. I did read that this particular car is pretty sensitive to refrigerant charge, so it could be off. But adding up other factors (previously overfill, sporadic operation, etc) suggests it’s something else too. I watched the gauges when I shut the engine off, expecting to see the high and low sides equalize. After about 15 minutes the low side was in the 100 psi range and the high was still above 200. I may check it in the morning to see if they do eventually equalize. I assume there’s nothing deliberate in the system to keep the fluid from moving around. I’m not an AC person, but this kind of smells like an expansion valve problem to me. It’s a cheap part ( <$50 ), doesn’t look too hard to get to, and I can borrow a recovery unit and vacuum pump from work so this is doable in my driveway for minimal cost. But if those of you who know things think the valve is a low probability for its ailments, I can go back to my strategy of just opening the windows. I guess it could be the filter too/instead, but the wide delta when the system is off probably is a clue. Evaporator could be clogged, but taking the dashboard out to get to it is not on my list of things I will do. Any thoughts on whether I’m on a reasonable path with the valve? thanks, Steve
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416-H vs. 417-A: Which is the better buy?
Tonytoro416 replied to fuzzystump's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
I currently have 3 Onan engines. I was like you and very Leary of them when I bought my 416h. All 3 of my current Onans I’m sure have over 1,000 hours on them. My 416h is my go to tractor. It always starts doesn’t matter how long it’s sat or how cold it is. I don’t have a picture of the 3rd tractor and engine but it’s a 520. All have been excellent tractors -
416-H vs. 417-A: Which is the better buy?
kpinnc replied to fuzzystump's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
The P216 and P218 Onan engines aren't as fickle as the P220 (20hp), but I'm not a fan of Onan either way. Of course if correct 400 hours is nothing. That being said, 1300 hours on a Kohler twin is getting up there. If it has been meticulously maintained, I would lean that way as well. But seeing would make all the difference for me. Both being hydros... you're just gonna have to look them over. -
Many people like my parents got into the mindset and had no need for multi function equipment. if it was cheap and just cut grass it was fine. I like the fact that my stuff can be a Swiss Army knife of lawn equipment.
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I’ve heard that the large corporations like Kenmore, Whirlpool and others do have something called “planned obsolescence” . A engineered lifespan where products last x amount of years then wear out/break to the extent it’s cheaper to get a new one. People’s phones, lawn tractors, appliances and more are all part of it.
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GeoC-120 changed their profile photo
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Looking for some advice: I currently own a 418-A, which I am going to take out of service to do some restoring. In the meantime, I need to pick up a machine for my regular mowing/snow blowing chores. There are 2 machines for sale locally that I'm interested in, but not sure which is the better choice: 417-A with 1,065 hours asking $1,300 or best offer, the other is a 416-H with 400 hours $750 Both come with mowing decks (not a factor as I currently have 2 decks) The 417 has the Kohler Command 18. 416 is powered by the Onan. I don't know the year of each, but the obvious answer is that 416 is a lot newer - since it was only made in the 90's and the 417 was only produced in 85-86. I'm leaning towards the 417, even though it's older and has more hours, but I could really use some insight from the members here, as you are much more knowledgeable with respect to the pro's and cons of each. I don't know much about the Onana engine, but I know the Kohlers have a great reputation. Any advice/input/knowledge/guidance is greatly appreciated as I'd like to make a decision and pull the trigger before they're... and, as we all know, they tend to sell quick! Thanks in advance, Brian
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1962? Wheelhorse..model value, rarity?
oliver2-44 replied to FLtractor's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Do you have a picture of the other side showing the belt guard? Looks like that left rear wheel has an axle and or brake seal leaking bad. Its a plus that it has the Kohler engine. But has the front of the hood been cut/butchered/destroyed to fit the air Cleaner -
What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
oliver2-44 replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
I had to give the old C81 some TLC before I used it this week. I saw the insulation cracking on the stator/regulator wiring and it crumbled when I handled it. Used fome of my favorite heat shrink connections that have solder in them. Had some new connectors in my stash and a little 14Gage wire, so good to go. When I travel through Austin coming from the farm I pass near a huge city sewer plant. Nearby they have a contractor that takes the solids and the grass, leaves and limbs and makes excellent compost that they call "Dillo Dirt" As in Armadillo, it an Austin thing I can get a truck and trailer (2+yards) free if I shove or $30 for them to load with skidsteer. Its an easy decision to shell out $$. It does smell a little "fresh" at the composting facility. But the smell is gone from the yard in a day. Very good fertilizer! So the C81 has had easy duty pulling the trailer around the yard as I do the hard duty shovel/spreading. I've spred 2 truck/trailer loads on the lawn this spring. -
Wondering what model this is, the rarity and how useful in towing and other non mowing tasks since no deck. Value?
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2026 Big Show Buy/Sell/Trade Thread
bobbyw replied to Pullstart's topic in Wheel Horse Collectors Club Show
Carlisle Turf Savers 15x6-6. They are in good condition. $30 Pickup @ The Show -
Click on the fuzzy picture
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After a few cranks, it fired up on carb cleaner sprayed in the carb and rad good (for a rough check) I had it jacked up to change the rear tires, so kept spraying/running and moved the hydro control lever forward and backwards and hub rotates as they should. So theirs signs of life, maybe, just maybe the 400 hrs on the meter is real. A part of the deal I got a pile of 3 piece and 2 piece 3 speed transmission parts. #/4 of them are good, some are pitted or chipped . The complete 3 piece transmission has interesting damage, if only it could talk! Who knowns what went through it to break this bearing holding ring The case and hubs and pullies are good. This other side plate was good. This is a "newer style diff that I guess was in the 3 piece transmission. There are also parts to another 2 piece 3 speed. some good, some pitted. Here a close up of that diff with a corner chippe dout The axles need to be flipped, they have heavy wear in the bushing area. More parts and more parts. So for trading a tiller that I had 2 of sitting in the barn I feel I make out great. I really needed some transmission parts for various projects. I thing I can build a really good 3 piece transmission if i repair or replace that side plate, and a really good 2 piece 3 speed with another transmission I have that needed parts. There probable another so/so 2 piece transmission in the pile of parts. While the 520H is rough in some aspects, It give me one to learn on since it is the first 520h I've seen down here in 10 years. Its 48" deck has a rust hole near the discharge but turns free. If nothing else, as @ebinmaine said, If it becomes parts, the gear reduction steering, seat pan, wide rear rims, and some other parts have value to me.
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North sky this evening.
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I am trying to fit my tiller that has not been fitted for 30 years, maybe more. The belt will not go on, no way no how and I think it must have shrunk, or the rubber has lost compliance, so I cannot get it on. It is the only belt I have that's close to this length, so it has to be the right one. My problem is now two fold. My model does not have a lever arm for the spring belt tensioner, and I know when I last used it it did not need the spring. It was so tight, back then, that it was a real pig to get on the big rear pulley anyway, now it seems impossible. Anyway, there is no lever arm on the attach-o-matic pulley and idler that mounts there to apply the spring to. Second, because my model seems to be somewhat unrecognised on here, it's a Belgium machine, I worry that if I get the standard length it will be slightly too long, requiring the spring loaded idler, which I do not have. Is there anywhere to look up what belt length is needed on my specific machine for my tiller? It's a C-140 8 speed, and has serial number 151391. Yes, I know there is no C-140 8 speed in the USA. See below. Everyone seemed very pleased to see one. Also below is the tiller: By the way, it's very late here now, so I won't check back in until tomorrow, so don't think I'm being rude if I don't reply further tonight to any suggestions. Thanks in advance. Regards Sutty
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If it does hold up I would paint that entire muffler with hi-heat black
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- Yesterday
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Oildyne 108 hydraulic pump from 72110
oliver2-44 replied to MShepheard's topic in Implements and Attachments
Clean it with some spray electrical cleaner. Use something like a tooth brush to gently scrub it. Test cleaner on a small spot of insulation and wait 30 minutes to insure it doesn't soften insulation. Set it in the hot sun, or in front of a heater (not to close) rotate to heat all sides, 100F -120F to slowly drive out moisture. All day, maybe 2 days. Then recheck resistance. don't worry about a resistance "number for the 1st step", you just want to get away from the dead short. Once you get away from the short, you can warm it some more to see if it resistance improves. Show us some pictures of everything. You will probable need to go to a hydraulic shop with you parts and old O-rings to match some new one up. A good industrial hydraulic will have flat file drawers full of every size and type O-ring. You want something like a Viton material, not exotic, just oil resistant compared to natural rubber. -
I think Cecil Pond was not too enthusiastic about his offspring having to swim upstream against a rising tide of planned obsolescence lawn equipment. While they would face some hard decisions along the way just as Cecil had it was becoming obvious that bowing out while the company was thriving made the most economic sense.
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Great post. Informative. It's not just garden tractors and lawn tractors. Much of the products we now purchase have a short life. (I sometimes wonder if it planned?) Appliance repair man (finally found one) told me this week our refrigerator is not worth repairing . (Cooling fine but interior light is real dim and loud buzzing from an item on a circuit board. Remove light and all is well other than no light inside ref.) When it comes time to replace, he suggested purchase the cheapest refrigerator (that wife could get by with ) and plan to replace every 6 to eight years. He listed a few name brands that he would not purchase and for sure don't purchase a brand whose name you don't recognize or am able to pronounce. I suppose enough of the components of our disposable items are able to be recycled to make this viable. Today, I sold a power miter box that I purchased in 1979. (Still had owner's manual.) Most of my power tools are more than 20 years old. The 520H should out last me. I'm a believer of maintenance. Believe it or not, we even cleaned the cooling fins on our refrigerator.
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Odds are good that'll be fine. I've cleaned at least a couple dozen carbs that way. I run them through the ultrasonic cleaner at least 3 to 5 cycles. Often more. When you're done with the UC - spray a whole can of brake cleaner through all the ports and orifices every which way but loose.
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Thanks for info! I've decided to put in ultrasonic bath w/current plugs in. Have talked w others who have used that method w/excellent results. I shall find out....
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What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
ebinmaine replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
No wood welding?
