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We all know that Ed has found good homes for lots of good Wheel Horses that have been abandoned by previous owners, It is very commendable that he is so willing to help others in need of such intervention.
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NewToWH joined the community
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First it starts with one, then two and before long you will need a bigger building to house the entire heard. Welcome to the addiction.
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Have you been using gasoline with ethanol added, if so STOP, that junk will mess up your fuel system. Recreational gas will cost a bit more but it will keep you from having fuel related problems. This site will help you find non-ethanol gas in your area. https://www.pure-gas.org/ Carburetors on small engines have several extremely small passages that can become clogged. Dipping it in a can of Carburetor Cleaner is the preferred method. This thread is well worth reading, the engine may not be the same but the steps to be taken are.
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Stick with the squirt of carb cleaner in the intake. Don't use starting fluid it can hurt your small engine. if it doesn't start with the carb cleaner buy a "good" spark checker, something like this. ot one of the cheap knock off kind. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XD64QN3?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details
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April 22, 1978, "Saturday Night Live" showcases the worldwide television debut of the Blues Brothers—the not-quite-real, not-quite-fake musical creation of SNL cast members Dan Aykroyd and John Belushi.
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This is why my wife doesn't want me to get a trailer. She's not buying the "It's only for Home Depot runs" line. She's not wrong.
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Wanna build a black hood...
Achto replied to kpinnc's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
Great job Kevin !! I had some waste when I built mine. Spun the rims on my C-145 lathe. My finished width was 11.5" -
After a carb cleaning it will take a little time cranking to fill the bowl before it can start. Remove the air cleaner cover and shoot a squirt of carb cleaner into the carb throat. If it fires right up, the issue you have is fuel related. If it doesn't, it's spark related. Safety switches can cut ignition
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Yes one on the positive side to the of the key switch to the positive side of the battery. Then one from the ground to the star generator the rest is just normal wire. Find you tractor in the manual section being at 856 will be there towards the front of the manual. It’ll have the wiring diagram. I think there’s only four wires if I remember correctly.
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First lets get something straight, you can't use the words downsizing and wheel horse in the same sentence. That is not possible. Next, saying "I only went there to get a tiller", ranks right up with "the check is in the mail" uh ha!
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T-1 has about 1000 ppm zinc T-6 is >1100 ppm zinc Modern motor oils, for gas engines, used today have around 700 ppm Racing oils 1600 Break in oils >2000 Don't get caught up in the more is better thing. Zinc alone is destructive additive and should be used in conjunction with other chemicals to form the proper blend. Personally, I would never add anything to my oils. I would, like you are doing, get a good fit. If you really want to insure you have the best oil, Kohler sells motor oil that is to their spec with all the right additives and blends.
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Wanna build a black hood...
Pullstart replied to kpinnc's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
I’d assume a death wheel (thin style) would be much better than a heavy grinding wheel. -
Carb - it is better to rebuild an OE carb than roll the dice on a Chinesium knock-off one. Not many of those yield "good as new" results...
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Try a new and correctly gapped spark plug. If it does not correct the problem remove it and save for the next time.
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Wanna build a black hood...
sqrlgtr replied to kpinnc's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
@kpinnc what type of grinder did you use? Been wanting to try this myself. I have a couple extra sets of wheels and like you mentioned it's hard to find the wide rears with the right Wheel horse off set. -
Well, that 1076 is nearly complete. It's missing the belt guard and throttle cable. It does start, run and drive. The Sundstrand feels strong. It has the axle bracket and snow plow, The slot hitch that can lift the tiller. And the 42" deck with all the side swing arm hardware.
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Wanna build a black hood...
ebinmaine replied to kpinnc's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
One of our favorite sayings around here! I agree with Kevin Kevin! Niiiiice! -
Wanna build a black hood...
Pullstart replied to kpinnc's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
@Achto did similar. Anything to add Dan? Awesome work, Kevin! -
14 results with a 418-A search https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=418-a&quick=1&type=downloads_file 14 results with a 418-8 search https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=418-8&quick=1&type=downloads_file
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Who has or where is the manuals that would have came with the 418-a and 418-8 tractors? I been searching and come up on a hodge podge of various ones but nothing close.
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The only vent for the transmission I'm aware of is the dipstick tube not being tightly sealed. With the sound you mention I do wonder if there is an issue with your orbital valve (steering valve). They do whine, that's normal but hard to say without more testing. I still think that without major obstruction it should affect the speed as the oil passing through the steering only provides low pressure "make-up oil" for the hydrostat. Based on the drawings the charge pump draws oil from the sump, then goes through the lift section, then steering (where the 725psi relief valve is kept), then returns at low pressure through the filter to the "feed port" of the variable hydrostat pump which has a direct loop with the hydrostat motor (they are both in the one assembly) then the excess oil is returned to the sump. Random last thought, check the bolts that mount the transmission to the frame. Mine had been loose and when the transmission rocked back and forth a bit it would change the speed a bit due to the position relative to the pedal changing.
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Took my wheel horse 312-8 (1993?) out last week and wouldn’t start on me. Long story short I had a bad battery and what seemed like a bad starter. Replaced both and took out my carb to clean everything up. Was getting better juice and seems like it wanted to start but still nothing. Thought I cleaned the carb pretty good with carb cleaner and compressed air but still no start. I replaced the fuel line going into the carb, and confirmed the fuel pump is delivering fuel appropriately. Spark plug is also good. This was my first time taking apart the carb and putting it back together so I think I put everything back right but maybe not? Any advice or suggestions for a new carb?
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Hi Tom. Welcome aboard to the wheel horse crew.
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You're downsizing. Just getting smaller stuff instead of complete tractors...
