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Sorry to hijacked this thread, but I have a mule drive with cast iron pulleys. What bearings do I need to replace the ones in the pulleys. Thanks.
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What have you done "WITH" your Wheel Horse
SylvanLakeWH replied to rjg854's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Two days in a row with little human cargo headed for the beach... -
Another local show (Connecticut)
wallfish replied to Sparky-(Admin)'s topic in General Shows and events
Good time hanging out today! Plus we even got to tinker a little bit and fire up that supposedly non runner 953. -
The LSE is now in possession of it's new owner. I'll let let him chime in if he wants to.
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yes both bearings are readily available. there’s no magic in getting the bearings from Toro as they will send offshore manufactured bearings anyway those bearings you can get Amazon eBay.
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Drove by this place unexpectedly in Geneva, IL. Waze was taking us on a "shortcut" to save probably 1 minute. It was closed when we went by since it was after noon on a Saturday, but does appear to still be operating. https://www.facebook.com/p/KD-Sales-and-Service-100054468039597/
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If not mistaken thats a common bearing ?
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something I go by if the you take the top nut off of one of the spindles and the pulley is has a key then the bearing is a 6203-12 or 6203 2rs -3/4 these are the bearings used in the mule drives also WH #106085 (on the spindles you have to pop off the inner rubber seal if you choose to grease the bearing with the zerk The mule drive 104974 v idler 104975 flat sheave idler if your pulley is not keyed and the nut has a lock washer under it then it is a 6203 2rs bearing metric 17x40x12 3/4x40x12
- Today
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Not bad for a tractor that's 58 years old and a 36" rotary deck.
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8-25 replacement blade
gwest_ca-(File Mod) replied to ianc's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
A 1990 model but no parts list found for the 56129 - a one year only model. 1989-1990 model 56128 uses blade number 67-0200 no longer available. See where it was replaced by 67-0200-03 and (94-034 but this looks like an Oregon part number and may not be correct.) 1991-1992 model 56133 uses the same blade so have to guess that is what you need. Saw where it is 25-3/16" long measured diagonally from tip to tip. 2-5/8" wide with 5/8" center hole. I went to Oregon but can not figure out how to use the site. The Toro 80-4530 may be a recycler blade. -
Repower or keep original
kpinnc replied to Bbrown's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
Agreed. K141/ K161/ K181. You can't go wrong with a GOOD small block Kohler. Recoil or electric start. And they are rebuildable. The service manual is idiot proof. Most parts are aftermarket now but at least available. Any decent machine shop can bore the cylinder and grind the crank if required. There are still engines out there that need nothing but fresh oil and air filters. But if it needs a rebuild, it can still be done. -
While outside today I looked at the drive belt on my tiller. It doesn’t have any markings on it but I compared it to a B142 I have hanging in the shed. The tiller belt sure looks like a B profile on mine. It’s working just fine, but if I ever replace it, I will get an A139. This belt is what came with the tiller when I got it in 2018.
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I think the Wheel Horse tiller is one of the best implements they ever built. They can be hard to work on but are mechanically simple. The tiller gearbox just has two sprockets and a heavy chain. Sounds like it skipped off one sprocket or the chain broke. Either way, you gotta open it and have a look. Good time to inspect the bearings and seals and replace as needed. The case holds about a quart plus of oil as well. The difficult part is always removing the tines from the center shaft. Each tine set use a couple pins to hold them on the center shaft but it is not uncommon for the tines to brown weld onto the shaft. Lots of heat and penetrating oil are sometimes required to break them loose.
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I'm joking of course. Always loved this meme...
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Thanks to both of you for the ideas!
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I bought rubber bumpers more than 20 years ago and glued them on the fender on my 314-8 where the springs would contact the fender. Never had an issue with them coming loose. About 2 inch diameter but 1.5 inches tall.
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Not that I am aware of. If you go into our files and use a model number in the list look for at least an IPL (illustrated parts list) for that model. Click on a file and there will be some thumbnails come up. Click on them to enlarge. The appropriate pages from the Spindle ID Chart will come up. Nothing to download unless you want the full file.
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rwlvt changed their profile photo
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Hi folks, I'm at it again, and as usual, I'm out of my depth. This time, I have just installed an old 36 inch tiller. Model is unknown, but this has to be an 80's or 90's vintage. It has a Wheel Horse label, though the model and serial number are illegible. After some research, fussing, and a few miscellaneous pins and springs, I got the thing together this morning, and it was working!!! Unfortunately, I think I BROKE it. 😒 Admittedly, I'm trying to till a rough patch of ground, and I'm new to the machine. I thought I got the feel of it. I put the tiller in the ground and let it till for a bit before moving ahead a foot or so. But ultimately, it stopped working. I am intimately familiar with the belt assembly at this point. It's not the belt or the assembly. The PTO is working, the large pully on the tiller is turning, the shaft is turning, but the tines are not. So, my question to you Wheel Horse guru's is: What am I in for? Getting this thing on was a chore. The prospect of taking it off is not pleasant, but it seems like I'm going to have to get into the gear box. Any advice before I disassemble? Thanks in advance, Ron
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1962? Wheelhorse..model value, rarity?
FLtractor replied to FLtractor's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Just fun to look what’s out there in other parts of the nation -
Getting started as a Wheel Horse dealer was different for us because it was factory direct. We had been an Ariens dealer for years before and that was factory to distributor to us. The 'direct' way was never as personal, but always made more financial sense. As time went on we got used to direct because then we started selling Ski-doo's and that was direct too. C-85
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Repower or keep original
Easton Rich replied to Bbrown's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
I'd definitely try to find a 7-8 HP Kohler. Much easier to find parts for, simpler design, and they run much better. I think most guys on here would agree -
I used this for the search on ebay. Rubber Feet 1-1/2 If you look around the listings hopefully you will find some with a 5/16" center hole for the mounting bolts, I got lucky and found some.
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Repower or keep original
8ntruck replied to Bbrown's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
Do you want the tractor to be a worker, or you wanting a restored tractor? If your choice is worker, I agree that a swap would be easier/cheaper. As @squonk said, a 7 or 8 horse Kohler is a good choice. Many on the forum have made satisfactory swaps using HF Predator engines. -
I had the same thing sort of on my 953. There was no screen on the tank and the shut off valve got clogged. It looked yellowish and gummy but it was actually real fine rust particles. Well no way I was removing the tank so I tossed a little chain in the tank and with a long screwdriver I swished it around. Then flushed the tank. Then we have these real strong magnets that came with a dialysis machine maintenance kit at work. They are used to catch any metal that may have gotten through the water filters. They are about the diameter of a dime. I placed one of these near the tank outlet to catch any fine rust. 2 years and no more clogs.
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update: update: so to this point I have only done the fuel filter and seafoam in the gas.. Day 1- surging on start up. Day 2- Surging after about 7 minutes of use Day 3- Surging after about 10 min of use Day 4- (really a few days later) got a good 15 min out of it before the surging Day ??- about the same as last time Day TODAY- 2 runs at over 30 minutes and 1 little hick-up other than this it seems good..... now to decide if I work on my 312-H or let it go to someone else that wants to work on it... THANK YOU EVERYONE.
