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What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
953 nut replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Ed, how many decks will fit in a five gallon bucket? -
I'm watching this 520H on an online auction close to home. (ends today at 11:20 EST) I don't know much about the 520H's other than they seem pretty popular (expensive). This one is listed as having 518 hours on the meter. Obviously, they've been some pretty tough hours. Curious what those of you familiar with the 520 can tell from these photos. What I can tell already. Running condition = unkown Damaged LH steering, possibly a broken tie-rod and perhaps a bent spindle. though looking at the steering wheel alignment, could be something else going on Damaged hood Broken tail lamps Couple tears in the seat and missing center cap on steering wheel Positives Forward swept axle Nice hubcaps Rear discharge or Recycler deck Low hours - if accurate and if engine is good What do the experts here have to add?
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Yes, need to look at the photos to be sure, some vendors offer both choke arm configurations.
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A lot of the "not from around here" knockoff carbs come with the choke lever assembled wrong for the application... some will require the use of your OE parts to make it right..
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Eye doctors dilate (die late). Eye doctors skip tape measures because they're great at eyeballing Eye Doctor had a patient complaining of a stabbing eye pain during coffee, doctor advised him to Take the spoon out of his coffee mug. Optometrists and teachers both spend their time testing pupils. A smartphone was wearing glasses because it lost its contacts.
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Be sure to get one from a comparably sized engine - there is a 2 digit bore ID cast in behind the choke plate up top - the higher the number, the larger the bore & airflow.
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Toro Wheel Horse GT 550 Slow in High Gear
953 nut replied to Pattyb's topic in Transmissions and transaxles
I am not very knowledgeable on the newer Wheel Horses but some of our members like @Pullstart or @JoeM may know the answer. - Today
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I like that idea but I'm thinking I'm going to hit a lot of nails holding the exterior trim to the window frame. There are twenty windows. The size is about 34" wide and five feet tall. I may end up cutting them on my shop saw that has a much bigger table. In worse case scenario, I'll re-attach them like they have been for all these years. I suppose I could run a bead of caulk across the top of the windows, that way the next person could cut the caulk with a utility knife before removing the window. I had four window sills that needed attention, possibly in part due to the storm windows allowing water behind them. Personally, I like the looks of the windows without the storm windows but the added protection from weather and for weatherization they are necessary. The church doesn't have money to replace the windows or even the storm windows and there is something about old wavy glass windows--kind of like patina on a Wheelhorse. Below is the front of the church with new deck. The tall posts are for the new porch that we are going to build. This is likely the last hurrah for this old building. The small community is dwindling. The 2x4 oak rafters on the building have bellied some 6 to 8". (I can't believe the roofing supplier loaded all of the shingles on that one valley.) The rim joists are about shot (we replaced the one across the front of the building and around back a piece of metal was nailed over a hole where the rim joist was missing). I replaced a fair amount of the clapboard siding, made window drip cap for the windows that needed it. My goal is to keep a much water out that I can. One neighbor lady came up and donated $2,000 because she appreciated saving the building. Concrete apron will be poured at the end of the ramp and a sidewalk where the steps will be in front of the doors. An interesting note: The foundation is poured concrete. There are no footers. When we dug for posts next to the building, we never found a footer. We dug our holes for the posts deeper than the foundation was buried in the ground.
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Good morning, I am hoping someone can help me because tractor repair is not my area of expertise but I can research, read and follow directions. I bought this tractor about a year ago and it does not achieve full speed, full throttle-high gear speed is the same as low gear, but it flies in reverse. It has 500 hours and I changed the oil and filter, I didn’t clean the power steering filter because all of the posts that I’ve found, this is never the solution. We disconnected the smart steer in the spring using a method found on this site but that didn’t help; it only prevented it from slowing down more while turning and that’s a good thing. Today my husband is going to help me check all the pivots and linkages but like I said, I can research and read and think the problem lies in the neutral adjustment. I was just looking at the 5XI SERIES TRACTOR HYDRAULIC SYSTEMS SERVICE MANUAL and saw a note about the pivot point and went to look at mine, the machine is not running and the pivot point look like it is facing the wrong direction. My questions are, am I correct that when you don’t have any pressure on the accelerator the pivot should be facing the other way? Can I change this while the tractor isn’t running? I realize that we should do it while it’s running to avoid creep but I took it apart so that I could clearly see everything. I am trying to avoid guessing and making it worse, that’s why I came here. Finally, since it’s apart, is there anything else that we should inspect? Thank you in advance for helping a novice.
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Bless you for taking care of a house of worship. Are you going to have to replace or recut the glass or do you think the aluminum is wide enough to trim a little off each side? The majority of storm window frames are a channel and if the outside were removed the sides would fall off. Not knowing all of the details I am inclined to think @Handy Don idea of routing the openings to fit the storm windows is the best way to go. Attach a temporary guide board to each side of the window and select a flush trim router bit with a bearing that will give the depth of cut you need. Set up a temporary scaffold or other safe work platform and trim each side to fit the storm window. The router will ride on the Temporary Guide Board so a secure work platform is very important since tilting the router in either direction would give you an improper cut. Give the fresh wood some oil based primer and a topcoat of latex exterior paint. Here is a drawing of the before and after router work.
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Physical dimensions? Briggs 18 horse vs Harbor Freight Predator 22 horse?
adsm08 replied to Pullstart's topic in non tractor related discussion
Not if you replace it with a regular bowl bolt. -
Good Idea, Keeping the plow point shinny would look very realistic. If they've been used they're either shinny or rusty. Such a cool idea! Dave
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@702854boy Very interesting!
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I stand corrected, this 81 year old just got schooled by a teenager.
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November 7,1962, Richard Nixon concedes his loss in the California governor's race, telling assembled press: "You won't have Nixon to kick around anymore because, gentlemen, this is my last press conference." He would win the presidency six years later.
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Wheelhorse ornament hood light?
Retired Wrencher replied to FLtractor's topic in Wheel Horse Electrical
For those years, They made a double light kit that mounted to the frame I believe towards the front of the hood and next to the front axle. Veery expensive and kind of rare if you ever see one. I hope this helps. -
Ok I appreciate it @adsm08 , I knew it needed to be poking out some because of removal, but thought that was kind of far since it was hitting when turning one direction.
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702854boy posted link to manual with factory info below
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Half no haha… factory light.. not special hinged ornament.
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Very cool. Glad it was factory after all. Thank you for the link.
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I've got two table saws. One is portable and the other stays in my shop. If the portable struggles or is too awkward , I'll use the larger stationary shop saw. The reason for the portable is that I can make accurate cuts on the jobsite and fit the 100 year old windows openings. Most of the aluminum windows have the added extensions added to the bottom so I may not have to cut the height only the sides. Like I would expect from the fellows on this site, I'm getting good advice. Thanks to all
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That I believe was actually an option, I've seen something similar in the HL-5 Headlight manual jumble on here, I'll post a link in a minute Here's the link I believe
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How big is your table saw table? If you have a way to support the frame as it is passed through the saw Using a table saw with a 100 tooth blade made for cutting metal (negative hook angle) will make the cutting go pretty easy on the sides. Top and bottom will need more support.
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Based on one of the projects I did this summer I would go with the 100 tooth 10". Keep in mind that saw blades are total teeth, not teeth per inch. I was very apprehensive about taking a saw to some very expensive railing and post wraps this summer but was thrilled to see how well it sawed. I used a 100 tooth 12" in a sliding miter. A 100 in a 10" is better yet. More tpi. You don't need a 'special' aluminum blade. It will state that it's good for non-ferrous metals as most fine tooth blades are. It sounds like you will need to rip long edges so it would easily be my choice to use a 10", 100 tooth in your table saw. BTW.......wear goggles, not just safety glasses. Better yet, a full face shield. You'll find out why. 🙂
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Thanks, These aluminum frames are probably 40 or fifty years old--maybe older. I'm going to give it a try.
