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@#$& phone won’t load pictures.
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Update… here’s a photo of the Kohler engine and a picture of the trans piece
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Just missed out on a chance at a Cub Cadet 100. This got dropped off at a local mower shop. To sell on consignment. Before I could be called, a guy who was there at the time snatched it up. $200. Mower deck was excellent, fenders need work. Not running but wouldn’t take much.
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Even with shot seals, if there is useful fluid flow from the pump to and through the control valve, then moving the controls would get you some movement or noise. Even a stuck open pressure release valve would not divert ALL of the flow unless there was a blockage somewhere downstream.
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What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
Chris689 replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Got the hood painted up today for the C120. Now that my Simplicity mower has brakes I can take the C120 out of service and pull the rest of the sheet metal. Hopefully all the tin will be painted before temps drop. - Today
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Have you verified the pump is actually pumping? You can remove that return hose going to the reservoir and direct it back into the reservoir or catch it in a container. See if there's anything in the manual. You should be able to find it here https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=Ark loader&quick=1&type=downloads_file
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Used Headlight lens for a wheel horse commando 8
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Thanks for the replies. It appears that this is double posted and a couple of folks have replied over here at the other post. Maybe a moderator can fix this for me? Maybe a moderator can fix this for me?
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Big Worm joined the community
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The M37 project continues. While I'm waiting for some engine parts, I'm getting ready to assemble the transmission. Here are most of the old parts that I'm replacing, either due to rust spots or minor damage, as mentioned in a previous post: Most of the parts that are ready for assembly are shown below. All of the parts in the above image are being replaced with new or NOS parts. All of the old 'small' parts (things like clips/washers/screws, etc.) are also being replaced with new ones. This will end up costing as much as buying a rebuilt transmission, but I suspect that because of using so many new parts (and my OCD-like fussiness during assembly), it should be virtually new, and better than a typical rebuilt transmission. The only gear I'm not replacing is the reverse idler gear, as it did not show any signs of wear or damage, and even that gear has a new bronze bushing, honed to fit the new shaft. All shafts are being replaced, and of course all of the seals, gaskets, springs, and bearings (with good quality name-brand bearings from reliable sources). A few smaller parts (not shown) are soaking in solvent at the moment. One small improvement I'm making is to replace the shift lever guide pin with one that can be more easily removed and replaced (or rotated when worn). The original pin had a peened end to hold it in place. My improved pin is secured with a nut and washer. I made it by cutting a high-strength shoulder bolt and turning it on my lathe. Here is one that I made shown above the old pin, which I removed by grinding off the peened end. Sorry, no coffee cup for scale. The new pin is about an inch long. Our lawns are getting browner, and the tractors are getting dustier as they wait patiently for some green to reappear so that they can show their stuff and be appreciated.
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Sure would be cool if these were'nt fake AI bullcrêpe.. excuse my French. Don't fall for it guys, if something looks too good to be true it probably is.
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my track record can’t afford that many new hoods
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The control handles move, but nothing else does. No noise, no cylinder movement. My guess is the spool valve internal seals are shot and fluid just moves past them. The tractor sat for an unknown amount of time, and the previous owner said he was pretty sure the spool valve needed to be rebuilt. Hoses are relatively new, I took the cover off the pump and the seal is in good condition. PTO friction material is in good shape as well.
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For those mini ears found in Chinese Vegetables....
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"It don't have to be purty, just purty heavy."
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Gimpytr changed their profile photo
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Timothy R joined the community
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Just joining finally time to work on the $40 Suburban 551
Dave D. replied to Dave D.'s topic in Introductions
Wow!, Thanks. Those will come in handy. This little tractor is cool! Dug around in the container again today to see what's in there. A few better pictures: Can't find the gear on the end of the steering shaft, but it's in there somewhere. Front Tombstone Weight Dave -
Door treatments deserve a book! When I paint a room I usually remove doors after noting any snug-fitting places. These get sanded or trimmed before the re-paint. Bottom and top get sanded and re-painted. If I’m in a very picky mood, I’ll remove the hardware rather than try to cut in around it.
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Kohler Muffler with Elbow and Adapter
Bill D commented on Bill D's classified in Wheel Horse for Sale
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And apparently a month instead of a week apart too.
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Been doing that for years. Younger brother taught me that trick after he got started into carpentry. He also would cover the area under the saw bed with masking tape, or paper to prevent any possible scratches. Most people don’t think about treating the bottom of the door.
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Some new black gorilla tape on that seat and it'll be ready to pass on to some lucky new owner. Nice job saving that tractor for many more years to the right person. Be sure to make them pass a competency test.
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Can you cut off a door splinter free and smooth on the bottom with a beastly worm drive saw? Yes and here is how to do Actually a worm drive has jess blade runout than a sidewinder so I prefer it I had a tight door that was rubbing the floor and with the addition of vinyl plank over the top I simply used two 7 mm thicknesses to set the elevation change plus a 7.mm gap. It was marked on masking tape by scribing along the floor. Do both sides if it is a veneer door but not needed on a solid door. The trick is to clamp a straight edge about a strong sixteenth of an inch above the scribed line and cut into the door with a sharp new utility knife blade. The wood will chip out but only to the cut you made with the knife. Do both sides for veneer doors. As I clamp a straight edge to the door I go back a bit low enough to leave the scribe line on and the wood will chip to a very slight ragged edge. The blade left a decent surface that a belt sander would take off but I used a flap disc and got by I used a cutting disc to bevel the edge , but again a sanding block for the less experienced might work with less risk. I finished it up with 220 sandpaper. An application of Tung oil to seal the bottom and repeat a few times is gonna seal that door nicely.
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C120 evolve to.. C140 Custom
sgtsampay replied to sgtsampay's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
Update: So, I got very lucky and was able use one of our loaner tractors at work for this project. So I started by going dig out the 4 ft bush hog he had out of the brush and trees. I then took it home and greased it, confirmed the gearbox has oil in it and the blades weren't to horrible. I think went to mowing. I'm very happy i ended up using this rig over my poor horse as the growth was super tall in some areas. Like 7 foot tall weeds in places. it was insane! I think use the other horse with my hauler to bring over the string trimmer, some help, and get to work trimming around the barn. I wrapped everything up with the C140 mowing the bank once again and then the field which was already mowed. All worked find and nothing really to report for breaks. One of the baffles in the old deck got bent so I had to pound it back into place. The blades are keeping there edge well, even after some rocks got wacked. Overall I'm pleased the project as a whole and I will be in way better shape for next season as it will never get that long again on my watch. -
Me thinks you should take one of your model airplane controllers and make a RC ...
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I’d kind of rather buy a $100 Wheel Horse and play with that…
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Stupid crooks are everywhere. The State of Florida had two "Treasure Museums" located on the treasure coast, one in Fort Pierce and the other in Sebastian. They contained actual gold coins, jeweled items and all sorts of treasures from Spanish ships that had sunk off the coast in the early 1700s. Mel Fisher and other treasure hunters had an agreement with the state that the would turn over half of their booty in exchange for salvage rights. Both museums had state of the art security systems but a couple of thieves managed to break into the Sebastian location undetected and cleaned out all of the treasure. In spite of their obvious talent for avoiding detection these stupid crooks went to a bank in Sebastian with one of the gold coins to cash it in. The bank teller said she would have to have her manager handle the transaction and ushered them into an empty office after having activated the silent alarm which notified the police. So smart yet so stupid.
