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Wheelhorse C120 auto.. tell me about this one
FLtractor replied to FLtractor's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Good point. Could always make my own guard and foot rest if I found thick enough metal locally -
The other two wires coming from the rectfier/regulator are probably white and come from the engine. Unplug them from the regulator with the engine runnIng at 2/3 throttle or better test for AC voltage AC between the two of them. Should be around 30 volts AC
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Got the 72" snow blower mounted on my big tractor today. Hopefully it will not be used any time soon but it is ready. I only used this setup once last winter when the snow was too deep for my 520HC and plow to deal with. That reminds me, the 520HC and plow are also ready to go. It just needs a wash to get the dust off that accumulated from sitting in the storage building all summer.
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Wheelhorse C120 auto.. tell me about this one
pfrederi replied to FLtractor's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Foot rest and guard are inexpensive but shipping these days makes everything expensive. -
Wheelhorse C120 auto.. tell me about this one
FLtractor replied to FLtractor's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Oh wow that much for the seat. Who woulda thought. How difficult and expensive are the right side foot rest and belt guard to find for these tractors these days? -
Please pardon my OCD, I just like to do it right the first time.
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Let’s talk TIRES
Handy Don replied to Sparky-(Admin)'s topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
Yep, probably too big for fronts (rub on frame? bore length?) Garden trailer seems likely, or some other implement. -
Let’s talk TIRES
Stan50 replied to Sparky-(Admin)'s topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
Guys, I bought 2 turf tires 18x8.5x8 ,probably out of Husqvarna(rear ones), with 3/4" center bore,no bearings?,with key. What can do with that? I was thinking about front tires,but these ones are maybe too big or wide (I've got regular 6"). Probably will need different spindles?. I have 22x7.5x12 rear ones. Second purpose is my diy trailer, turf tires would be perfect fit. -
Yep - but my advice is largely geared at "getting it to run" - that nominal .020 gap , 99 times out of 100 , is "close enough" for most engines to run well. and 9 times out of 10 it really is at the ideal spot. Of course, time to time we had been known to pop the breaker cover off and "loosen" the lock down screw and tweak the points while engine was running to dial in the timing "by feel" (for me, can't hear so cant do it by ear) but more often than not that final adjustment to get it "dead on" was often no more than a .0015" away from .020 gap. In this case, our main goal is to get his machine actually to fire up and/or run - the fine-tuning tweaks can come later once all the bigger issues are solved....
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Onan P-Series Ignition Module Replacement [Photos]
lynnmor replied to Duramax7man7's topic in Engines
The flywheel bolt is loosened a turn or two so that it will keep the heavy flywheel captured when it pops loose, just be sure that the puller doesn't turn the bolt back in as you turn the puller bolt. I won't use a two bolt puller due to the extreme force on just two. You can hammer on the puller bolt to help with breaking it loose. -
How much of the Wheel Horse wiring did you remove or are you using it all the way to the engine connection points? If the wiring wasn't blowing fuses with the old engine in place and is with the new engine then an engine component on the replacement must be the problem unless you pinched a wire while swapping engines. I would start by reconnecting everything but the rectifier since it is the only component connected when the ignition switch is in the run position.
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But are they doing so at the correct time? The points gap establishes the ignition timing for these engines. I have seen an engine with a good strong spark run poorly because the timing was improperly set and spark occurred slightly after top dead center. Adjusting the points using static timing solved the problem. Two little hints on finding the timing marks on the flywheel. Prior to looking for the timing marks you can remove most of the rust on the flywheel by using a wooden dowel with sandpaper wrapped over the end. With the sparkplug removed put the dowel through the timing hole and crank the engine a couple of revelations, you may need to do this several times depending on how much rust is there. The keyway on your crankshaft points up when at Top Dead Center. the marks you are looking for will be at the window around TDC so you will know you are in the correct area.
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You are correct about the color codes. Magneto=blue stripe, charge=white stripe. I hooked the solid blue from the donor to the blue stripe, the red to the white stripe. Old motor has the green stripe for the light circuit, which I did not use as the new motor does not have it. I just don't get the no spark issue.
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even better hint - splurge a little bit and get a *circuit breaker* type ATO style fuse at the correct amperage rating and you can drop it in the wiring using spade or bullet connectors somewhere in place of the fuse (for the glass fuses, I made up a jumper with alligator clips to run between battery + and the load side of the fuse holder) - that way you won't keep blowing fuses while you diagnose/test the system - circuit breaker just trips (it can sound like the old school "blinker flasher" devices used on older cars for turn signals) Once you have rigged one up you can stick it in your tool box and change out to different amperages to match the fused circuit you're testing...
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Quick and easy test on points without even pulling breaker cover: unhook all wires from Coil negative side, which takes condenser out of the equation then set DVOM to read Ohms (or use the diode test function) and test between the negative side wire (going to points) and good engine ground - then roll the engine over by hand (spark plug out makes it easier) you should see the ohms reading go from 0 (nominally, or very low resistance) to infinity (open circuit) as you roll the engine over showing that points are actually making contact and breaking contact. typically on corroded points as they close you might see *some* reading indicating a resistance to ground , but if its greater than say 200 Ohms or so (0.2 on the DVOM set at 1K) then your points are not making contact - you may find them "glazed" but smooth , or oily , in which case a simple cleaning (nail file or emery board from your wife's beauty supplies would do, or buy a cheap one at dollar general) to "sand" the faces of the points and then with points closed, a piece of lint free paper (or a dollar bill) between contacts usually would solve the issue. OTOH, you may find the points with pitted contacts (one side cratered, other side with a matching "mountain") indicating condenser failing or simple "they been there too long" failure so a set of points and new condenser set to proper .020" gap should fix ya. If you still have no spark then, you may also want to check the spark plug wire (corrosion, broken terminals, broken wire internally, etc). One way I used to use to test the whole system was after I put in the points and set the gap, then I'd roll engine to points closed and clean em with the little bit of paper (even feeler gauge can leave oily residue on points) and then turn key on and with a screwdriver blade between the engine and the movable contact arm where the push rod pushes on it, just a quick twist of the screwdriver to "snap open" the points should be enough to create a spark to jump your tester gap. - If that proves out you should be good to button 'er up and get 'er running with reasonable confidence it'll fire off. (assuming that breaker cover isn't making contact with an improperly installed/aligned wire terminal)
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Just a quick point, and I am not going to read back to see if it was covered already.The points gap may be set correctly, but over a period of time just sitting, the contacts will corrode. Clean them with a piece of fine sandpaper, buff them with a piece of a business card or the edge of a dollar bill.
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Here is my C-175 Automatic with a Series 1 after I restored it, a little eye candy for you boys 😜
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If the condenser is in question you can disconnect the wire from the coil for testing, if the problem clears up a new condenser is called for. The points gap sets the ignition timing on these engines, best bet is to use the "Static Timing" method as shown in the Kohler Service Manual. This video is also quite good, but i prefer to use a test light rather than a meter because the light will get your attention faster.
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1984 and older C-175 used the series 1. A spec number of 24300 and higher will be a series 2
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I do similar. When I build a new wiring harness, most of the components get their own separate ground wire of correct gauge.
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Where were the Series I used?
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Wheelhorse C120 auto.. tell me about this one
953 nut replied to FLtractor's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
The seat on that C120 would sell for $ 200.00 or more at any tractor show. The only things I see missing are the right side foot rest and belt guard, you would want them for your safety. The asking price of $ 500.00 seems very reasonable to me. -
Until they come up with grounding by Bluetooth, I'll still use another cable. Or, you could be a fancy hero and run it to the nut side hidden away!! Besides, it just might catch your lost 3/8 socket (no 10mm joke here)..
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October 23, 1976, Chicago's first number one release was the single “If you leave me now” which topped the Billboard Hot 100 chart and remained there for two weeks. The song was written and sung by bass player Peter Cetera and was featured on the album ChicagoX$.
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Onan P-Series Ignition Module Replacement [Photos]
Bill D replied to Duramax7man7's topic in Engines
Having done a couple of these modules myself you can save a step if you're patient. You can get a 5/16" box end wrench under the stator to remove the screws holding the ignition module. This will save you from having to remove the stator. Clean everything well with electric motor cleaner and compressed air before reassembly. Changing the module should fix your issues.
