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I use 32 and not really noticing sluggishness. It was out all night at 2 degrees, I warmed it up just the engine above idle, and it ran okay. Whines a little at the start, but I am in no hurry. ATF I think is just a tad thicker. I went premium tractor hydraulic fluid. It is a 10W-30 weight with all the right vitamins for the hydro.
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I've seen too many of those cheapie and cube pumps fail prematurely in my auto parts store days. Use a Facet Posi Flo, Carbole, Mr. Gasket, Napa Balkamp. All the same pump in a different box.
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The only other oil I know of is Meyer snowplow oil which is good to -40° But it's close to a Franklin a gallon!
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Was it on the lite side or wet and heavy. Ours was lite.
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This is what this hobby is all about...
Retired Wrencher replied to Docwheelhorse's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Well done Tony. She looks happy riding the tractor. I am glade we don’t get storms like this one every year. -
Hard to measure because of the constant light wind. I believe around 15" ?
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Eric how much snow did you get? I had to use the 14 hp blower to get the huge leftover banks form the plow trucks. The blower did short work of it and three neighbors driveway entrance. At lest it was not hard packed snow.
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Ahh sorry I see how I said it---I have my own 520H. So theres my answer-guess it'll fit my tractor. You prefer plow over thrower?
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Can you lower the scraper edge a bit?? I see the exact same thing with mine. I move the vast majority of it with one tractor with the blower, then final cleanup with the plow tractor.
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Been there!! My first rider was a similar Sears model - but it had a blade clutch. But I did start it in gear one time... ONE time.
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I found something familiar link . PSI probably 4.5-7, there is some differences in psi description.
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I have a single stage tall chute snow thrower and I've noticed that when the snow is real powdery, I get a plume of snow behind the bottom of the thrower. I run it on a 418-A and I've tried going slower but it doesn't help much. Although my driveway is paved, it's not perfectly flat from side to side, and I've set the scraper edge about 1/4" off the ground. If the snow is "slightly more damp" there's no plume, so I'm looking for some ideas or suggestions. Not sure if a "tough" plastic or rubber scraper would be worth fooling with as it may follow the contours of the driveway more readily. Thanks
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I’m glad to have two horses set up for snow duty. Had a chain come off my D160 so i finished up with my 417. We have another storm potentially brewing here NJ. Possibly a NorEaster.
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Changing /swapping Hydraulic fluid
oliver2-44 replied to squonk's topic in Implements and Attachments
Here is a comparative viscosity chart that cross-references the common SAE engine oil, SAE gear oil, and ISO VG (hydraulic fluid) grading systems. Note that while oils on the same horizontal line have similar viscosities, they contain different additives and are not always interchangeable; Kinematic Viscosity (cSt @ 40°C) ISO VG (Hydraulic) SAE Engine Oil SAE Gear Oil 32 ISO VG 32 SAE 10W SAE 75W 46 ISO VG 46 SAE 15W / SAE 20 - 68 ISO VG 68 SAE 20W / SAE 30 SAE 80W 100 ISO VG 100 SAE 30 SAE 80W / SAE 90 150 ISO VG 150 SAE 40 SAE 90 220 ISO VG 220 SAE 50 SAE 90 / SAE 140 320 ISO VG 320 SAE 60 SAE 140 Back at the Power and Hydro plants turbine oil is rarely changed ie I replaced 50 year old oil when doing major rehabs. A Conoco Phillips oil chemist recommended we use hydraulic oil as additive oil to our turbines to boos the gradually lost additives. We also did additive testing every few years and on rare occasions had the oil company make us a special 5 gallon can of super additive oil. So my 2 cents is to keep using a Hydraulic oil to get additives. Then again garden tractor loaders are low pressure 7-800psi, so there not like the 3000 and 5000 psi modern industrial systems. So additives for pumps and valve surfaces aren't as critical. -
@Beap52 As you found the pie is excellent warm, add ice cream and it gets even better. Its also excellent cold, straight out of the refrigerator. Now you went and made me hungry for some!
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Section 7 is your friend
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Now available: the discontinued 116324 hydro rod assemblies with the ball joint. $50.00 plus shipping. If interested, private message me here , or call / text during normal business hours. Please DO NOT COMMENT ON THIS THREAD and please NO EMAILS as they do not get checked regularly.
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Didn't realize the wife was recording from inside her warm kitchen. Like I said earlier, I love Hydros!
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Thanks. I realize this isn’t cutting-edge, but I hadn’t considered that battery type for cranking a small engine. I’ll have to give it a try on a side project I have. Steve
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Now available-we have reproduced the recently discontinued 108333 hydro speed control cams, $30.00 plus shipping. we also have a limited supply of NOS originals in stock - $ 40.00 plus shipping. If interested, send me a private message or call / text during normal business hours. PLEASE DO NOT COMMENT ON THIS THREAD! AND DO NOT SEND AN EMAIL as they do not get checked regularly.
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This I did not know but it was suggested by PF Engineering, where the loader plans came from, to use 10 weight. I have no idea what the loader builder @cschannuth used and he didn't remember. I have quite a few leaks, more on that in another thread, and when it got low I just put generic tractor hy fluid in it. fine in the summer but for pushing snow around real slow. It's now in the shop and undergoing upkeep and it's gonna get log splitter oil which is advertised as 10 wt. Not gonna worry about what was in it. Never gonna get it all out anyway. The big tractor when I did the 50 hr fluid change out I wasn't gonna buy their 900 a jug fluid so I used AW46 which is supposedly 20 wt. Sluggish yes in the cold and never gets warm. The HY system draws off the hydro fluid which the transmission casing acts as a huge heat sink. I would just stay with 32 Squonky. Always wondered if 32 would be better in say a 520 hydro for winter. They whine like crazy when first started in cold. What about 0w-20??
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In the short term, a primer bulb will help greatly. They certainly save batteries and starters when the fuel tank is that far back. I like my electric pumps, but I keep a couple primer bulbs on hand as well. The cheaper electric pumps can croak on you at the worst possible time... Facet low pressure (1-2 psi) electric pumps are best but they are expensive.
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Took advantage of being snow bound. No reason to get out and too cold for me to enjoy being out so I went through our hundreds of slides and transferred them to the computer. Fun to look back to the mid 1960's of family photos. Lots of memories and things I hadn't thought about for years. For one, that's me on my first mower. I don't remember what it cost. I'm pretty sure was a Montgomery Wards, one forward speed and one reverse speed. The blade was a direct drive--If the engine was spinning--the blade was turning. I believe Ward's mowers had tread on the tires and Sear's mowers were smooth. I'm guessing that if it was in gear and a lad pulled the starter rope and it fired off, said lad would be slow chasing his mower.
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We sure have been talking about these a lot lately. I use the offshore 9.98 ones with no problems but any low pressure 2-4 or 5 psi will work. Search on electric fuel pump to find those threads. Just installed a cheapy on a 520 that was a notorious hard starter. Started right up the other day at -15 out. Another one in progress.
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Anyone have any recommendations for an electric fuel pump for a D180? This tractor is retrofitted with a 25 hp Kohler Command engine with a pulse type pump mounted on the engine itself which really seems to be struggling to get fuel from the tank in the back. Once it's running it's fine, but man trying to get it started is gonna take out my starter motor. I know a low pressure pump is called for, but I'm not sure the pressure range. Willing to pay a little more for NOT a Chinese knock off (which may be asking a lot) so a manufacturer to look for would be helpful too.
