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monala joined the community
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Surely I’m the last guy that figured this out. But just in case there’s anybody out there thicker than I am, a small thing. Like most everybody I keep various greases handy on the bench. After using them a bit, I started getting blisters on my tongue trying to reach it 1/2 way down the tube. So, I’d stab an acid brush down the well, usually with way more on the handle than the tip. Just cut the tube off & repeat. Unless you have a Gene Simmons tongue. 👅
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Trans oil after 7 years (at least)
kpinnc replied to giantsean's topic in Transmissions and transaxles
In the early days of the Unidrive, there was no top oil fill. The side fill was all that was on many transmissions. The first 6 speeds in 1967 (and maybe others) added a short nipple to allow higher fill. Similar to the pic below. Eventually Wheel Horse added the top fill tube and dipstick. -
One more thought on the seat switch. I looked at the schematic. When the operator is not in the seat the circuit opens and it seems like the tractor should shut down instantly. My problem "feels" more mechanical. As I push the PTO lever to engage, the engine starts to bog down. The harder I push, the more it stalls.
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giantsean, tranny oil looks ok. but, when in doubt...change it out. 2 quarts of gear oil is cheap insurance for your tranny.
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Will this snowblower fit my 1980 C145
Ed Kennell replied to Joshyg's topic in Implements and Attachments
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A bit of an old post, but I'm looking at doing this same thing soon. A couple questions if you don't mind. You mentioned spring steel, do you know what kind? About how much of the bar stock did you use? What is the purpose of the spacers inside the square tube?
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Trans oil after 7 years (at least)
giantsean replied to giantsean's topic in Transmissions and transaxles
Ahhh... got it. They really needed more photos in the 10,000 different manuals they published In that case, what in fact is this plug for? -
HorsinNC joined the community
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Grandpa’s 953
Tonytoro416 replied to Tonytoro416's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
I appreciate your guys kind words -
Grandpa’s 953
Tonytoro416 replied to Tonytoro416's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
I am not going to make it to big show. I really want to make it one year. It’s a fair drive for us but still would love to come at least once -
One step forward, two steps back... Engine on the Burns sure fooled me. Turns out, it is physical incapable of making vacuum. Literally none. It was only running because the fuel vapor coming from the gas in the bottom of the intake was moving up into the cylinder on its own. I pulled the plug wire off and spun it over, and it was pretty consistently doing absolutely nothing for 7 or 8 revolutions before suddenly ripping the drill out of my hand and spitting out the intake. It won't start even with full choke, it only runs if you spray gas straight into the cylinder through the open intake valve. That engine's in the trash now and the Burns is a shelf yet again...
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Electric lift switch keeps failing
c-series don replied to RED-Z06's topic in Wheel Horse Electrical
After purchasing my 418-8 in Massachusetts I stopped in a Wheel Horse dealer in Connecticut to show him.I’ve bought some things from him before. Actually just stumbled across this dealer while on a trip to Vermont on a separate occasion. Anyway one of the first things he said to me was “You don’t want to know how much that switch for the electric lift costs!” Here is a picture of the dealership, not sure if any of you Connecticut guys might know of it? I can’t remember the name of it? -
squonk and Handy Don: Yes, thank you, I will do as you suggested. It will be interesting if that turns out to be the issue because- When I bought the tractor, there were a few electrical anomalies. One was that it would only start with the PTO engaged! I figured that someone had reversed the lockout switch connections. I checked the schematic and saw that there were two micro-switches involved, one using the NO and the other the NC terminals. Once I took out the battery and got a good look at the switches it was obvious that one of the plastic housings had been broken and the loose F spade plugged onto the wrong terminal. I dielectric greased everything and put it back together. Problem solved. Another issue was the seat switch. It was disconnected and jumpered somewhere down the line. Normally this wouldn't have bothered me because, on the Troy-Bilt with a hydro drive, once my foot was off the clutch, the tractor stopped. Like I wrote, I had PTO issues and hated to turn it off and on. Maybe I was tempting fate, but I mowed in steel-toe boots and always stepped wide of the deck when dismounting to pick up one of the dogs' bones or a branch in my way. But I quickly realized that the Wheel Horse is an actual tractor. As long as it is in gear and the clutch is engaged, if you fall out of the seat it's going to keep moving. I know a few people around here who have lost friends and family on farm tractors that way, so I was planning to reconnect the switch. My tractor's seat was falling apart. I found an aftermarket MTD seat for $30, but it used a different kind of switch. At first, 'cause I thought it would be more elegant (and I'm cheap), I considered adapting the Wheel Horse switch to the new seat by cutting out the WH mounting area and riveting it over a hole on the new seat. The center hole wouldn't leave enough space for the switch length, so I thought to cut a hole at the side and mount it there. But the new seat's foam was too tight and that was just a PITA too far. So I'm going to buy a switch that fits the seat. When I match to the seat's model #, all the switches that show up are square with a big center plunge button. Nothing that would fit that circle. Oh well, guess I'll have to make an adapter plate for that! But back to your suggestions, today as I was troubleshooting I connected the WH switch to its hanging cable, put it up on the seat, and sat on it while I engaged the PTO. I've checked the switch and know that it's functioning, but I was less than rigorous in my test because I was "sure" of the outcome. Let me try that again and I will get back to you.
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Trans oil after 7 years (at least)
cleat replied to giantsean's topic in Transmissions and transaxles
There is a drain plug on the bottom of the transmission to get all the oil out provided you lift the front of the tractor. -
Trans oil after 7 years (at least)
giantsean replied to giantsean's topic in Transmissions and transaxles
Thanks.. I was kind of excited to give it a flush, thinking it was far worse. But I'll drive it a bit and see how it looks as advised. The other thing I can't wrap my head around... why does the drain plug angle UP? Feels like there is a whole void in there that will never properly drain. -
Makes sense then. Carry on! I have an old Makita that fell a couple times and the guard hangs up. That’s the dedicated “cuttin through shingles” saw. 😎
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What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
ineedanother replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Just don't be tempted to slow the idle to below 8-900 RPM That engine is splash lubricated (no oil pump) and without enough engine speed it doesn't lubricate the top end. -
KT -17 series 2 had oil pumps...WH decided not to get the oil filter. You can retro fit one if you find the parts
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Over the last couple three days, we've been playing 3 dimensional magic tiles. Mrs 8N wanted her sewing room moved. This involved moving desks, tables, and shelves between houses and between basement and main floor. To help with the shelving swap between the house and lake house, I woke Pack Rat, the AC B-110, up from his winter nap today tow the garden cart between the houses to swap the items. This tractor has a very grabby clutch. It is very difficult to feather the clutch enough to NOT carry the front wheels off of the ground for a few inches. I've tinkered with this machine enough to get it usable, but it is far from where I'd like it. Today, i decided that the clutch will be the next thing I'll tackle.
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2026 Big Show Buy/Sell/Trade Thread
Pullstart replied to Pullstart's topic in Wheel Horse Collectors Club Show
Just the two matching tires mounted please -
It was modified for an actual purpose. I made the saw able to back cut 15 degrees, for a flush cut against a wall. I don’t use it often, unless it’s for a purpose.
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Trans oil after 7 years (at least)
8ntruck replied to giantsean's topic in Transmissions and transaxles
I'm guilty of old oil in my transmission as well - it has been a good 6 or 7 years, maybe more. Still clean. A change is on my to do list sometime this summer. But, I've run across a couple of articles about old oil. Seems that the additive packages (things to improve extreme pressure performance, viscosity additives, etc) in the oil have a shelf life. After a period of time, the additives don't remain blended with the oil properly. I'm going to say that a change of transmission oil every couple three years would be a good idea. -
The only thing I see wrong is that saw with no guard. That thing belongs in the trash. personally, I wouldn’t be cutting, bending over like that. That’s what saw horses are for. I’ve never used eye or ear protection when cutting wood. Been doing carpentry for 30 years.
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First coat on both, flashed off for a bit, into the oven for a little bake. In a couple of hours I’ll be able to do the second coat & repeat. I just hope they don’t fall or get too crispy on top 😁. Gives me some time to pack the bearings. Tires are supposed to be here tomorrow. I've heard that the young weeds are planning a ranch takeover. I’m gonna show up with 15 gallons of glypho mix & douse the whole crowd.
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Trans oil after 7 years (at least)
oliver2-44 replied to giantsean's topic in Transmissions and transaxles
Check that transmission oil after it has run in gear awhile. The crud very well could have settled out over several years. -
Take a look at the 'mule drive' - that is the set of pullies at the front of the tractor that the mower drive belt 'bends' around to get from the horizontal crankshaft to the vertical mower deck drive spindle. Might have a bad bearing there or something jammed up in the pulley housing. One of my tractors is a 1973 14-8. It is a direct ancestor to your 314-8 - many, many similarities between the two. Good tractors. Mine has done everything i've asked of it. While mowing a couple days ago, a corn cob got flipped up into the mule drive and jammed between the 2 pullies. Yup - it stopped the deck and caused a light burning rubber smell before I got everything shut down. Good luck and enjoy your Horse. Good bunch of folks here, too. I'm almost convinced that this group has broken and repaired just about anything on a Wheel Horse that can be broken and repaired. We are more than willing to offer advice - sometimes it is actually helpful.
