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Thanks for the replies. I just learned about the Dymysticatation guide yesterday and will be sure and download it shortly. I had ran across a page that had copied some info from that file. So there is no spark. I have a HF Centech 11 function digital meter so it may not be the most accurate. After charging the very old battery just for testing, With the switch in the RUN position, there was 12.5 volts to the + on the ignition coil. With the switch in the START position and the starter engaged, there was like 11 volts on the + terminal of the ignition coil. I then took the + lead off of the coil and tested it as per instructions found here on the forum. The PRIMARY winding of the ignition coil was reading 3.5 ohms (acceptable 3-5 ohms) The SECONDARY windings of the ignition coil were reading 9.92 (acceptical 6000k - 10,000k ohms) That leaves me guessing that the issue may be in the breaker points? Can a bad condenser cause no spark? Hopefully this afternoon I will be able to take the hood off so I will have good access to work on the breaker points. I probably need to check the wire from the NEGATIVE on the coil to the breaker points and make sure it is not broken anywhere. So if anyone thinks of anything else, please let me know. PS That ohm reading of 9.92 is awfully close to the 10,000k limit? The PO said that he had installed a new coil. PS earlier I mentioned that the starter motor would not engage. After charging the old battery I could hear the solenoid click and then in a few tries, the starter did start engaging. instructions of checking the ignition coil
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ri702bill started following battery not charging electro 12
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A lot of us add a new ground wire from the battery negative terminal to one of the rectifier mounting bolts. This is better than grounding thru painted sheet metal...
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Onan P-Series Ignition Module Replacement [Photos]
wh315-8 replied to Duramax7man7's topic in Engines
It can get tricky, I have 3 Onans, if you get in a bind and need pictures of where things go, don’t hesitate to ask. I will be happy to help as I can.- 80 replies
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Onan P-Series Ignition Module Replacement [Photos]
davem1111 replied to Duramax7man7's topic in Engines
Ah yes, thanks for mentioning the 9-pin. I'll check that out also. Valves are a good suggestion too. I already have the flywheel shroud off. I'm more worried about getting all that back together properly.- 80 replies
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Onan P-Series Ignition Module Replacement [Photos]
wh315-8 replied to Duramax7man7's topic in Engines
I done this with my 520H a few years ago and haven’t had anymore issues. Replacing the 9 pin wire connector was a big issue because pins and wires were corroded which could be what caused the ign module to go bad. I was able to get a module and ring for around 140$. I also replaced the coil, plugs, condenser also. the flywheel can be temperamental. A good solid hammer blow on the end of the bolt and spray lubricant on the crank helps. Figure a whole day to do the job, it takes so much just to get the flywheel cover off, nothing like on a Kohler K engine. And while you have so much off the engine, good time to check the valve adjustments.. Onan Service Manual in downloads if you don’t have it yet.- 80 replies
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davem1111 started following Onan P-Series Ignition Module Replacement [Photos]
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Onan P-Series Ignition Module Replacement [Photos]
davem1111 replied to Duramax7man7's topic in Engines
Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. I'm going to be replacing one of these on a 416-H P216g this weekend. The engine has been dying after 5-15 minutes when it gets hot (running time has gotten shorter and shorter). Very frustrating problem. I'm hoping that this solves it. Also, I didn't spring for the OEM part at around $200 or more (almost as much as the tractor is worth at this point) - hoping that an aftermarket part will do the trick. The insulator tip is a good one also, @lynnmor. The part and an appropriate puller will be here Saturday. I tried rigging up a custom puller but it didn't work. I'm getting a steering wheel puller like @Duramax7man7 had suggested and shown in pictures. Just to be clear, the flywheel bolt should be loosened but left in, but turned out just a little so the flywheel can pop loose when applying the puller? Any tips if it doesn't want to pop loose? Somewhat gentle tapping on the backside of the flywheel? (I know hammering hard could damage it....) I had replaced the coil, regulator, condensor, and wires, and thought the problem was solved but it wasn't. Had the tractor sold to a neighbor but it came back after the problem kept happening and got worse. Unfortunately he no longer wants the tractor even if this fixes the problem - says he wouldn't trust it. Will let you all know how it goes.- 80 replies
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@Ed Kennell I believe all 417’s came with a Series 2 and baby moons. I think some 300 series came with baby moons too? Only a true Wheel Horse connoisseur like @Handy Don would pick up on 8” wheels and 6” spindles. Some may in fact think “What is this guy talking about?” My 417-A runs a 44” two stage blower like a champ!
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Wheelhorse C120 auto.. tell me about this one
FLtractor replied to FLtractor's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Just saw your message part about the seat.. looks to be original seat with cushion? -
Wheelhorse C120 auto.. tell me about this one
FLtractor replied to FLtractor's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Oh ok, interesting -
Wheelhorse C120 auto.. tell me about this one
FLtractor replied to FLtractor's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
How much do these usually sell for? This one says all new tires and battery.. Cuts drives. -
Oh wow .. thanks.
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1054 (953) Hydraulic Unit Rebuild
8ntruck replied to 1054 Project's topic in Transmissions and transaxles
The slooow cooling is the key to that method.- 8 replies
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- wheel horse
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WHX?? started following Happy Birthday Peacemaker Jack
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Happy Happy Josh
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Minneapolis Moline Mocraft https://www.tractordata.com/lawn-tractors/000/5/2/523-minneapolis-moline-mocraft-100.html
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Yeah, I don't like balls behind me!
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I do concur. Balls up front make for a far more pleasurable trailering experience... And mirrors on a break the number one rule of Italian motor car racing - Whatsa behind you Issa no Matta...
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2026 Deer and Fish Tales
SylvanLakeWH replied to Ed Kennell's topic in non tractor related discussion
Scouted the property today with my BIL for bow and bought my first crossbow, with crank cocking / decocking. First season of bow... we'll see how it goes... Only doe for me, as I've used my 2 combo doe/buck tags for doe already... ok by me. I like venison... -
Keep yer balls up front where you can see em John. BTW, the mirrors came off.
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As stupid as those mirrors look, I was having a pretty hard time turning around to see well enough when backing a boat and trailer into a very particular spot, so those mirrors would've helped. I moved the ball from the front to the back a few weeks ago for something else so I guess I just need to buy a new tractor for the "attachment" of a front tow ball. LOL
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Those old eyes are still working fine Richard.
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Upside-down blades don't make a very good cut.
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1054 (953) Hydraulic Unit Rebuild
953 nut replied to 1054 Project's topic in Transmissions and transaxles
Put a brazing tip with a fine tip on your torch and heat the spring steel to red hot and let it cool slowly berried in sand, the temper will be gone and now you have mild carbon steel. The cast iron around it won't be harmed if the small blue flame tip is only directed at the spring steel.- 8 replies
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The doe herd (10) showed up right on schedule at 6:00PM tonight. Five more are at the right out of frame.
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I removed some of the stump bumps from the 42" RD. Before after The 36"SD looks OK. Still has some red paint left. Any one see why the RD didn't cut. May be the reason the 417 was put on the auction block.
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I went thru 5 fuses while disconnecting things Hint, if you blow a fuse put a test light in its place, while it is brightly illuminated that tells you there is a short to ground or someplace electricity is not supposed to go. While troubleshooting you can glance at the light to see if it has gone out indicating the short has cleared.
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