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@CD Long Jr hard to imagine what this guy was doing , or basically not caring about how any part of this worked , never picked up one like that , as stated , a tank clean out as well as a separate heavily treated gallon of fuel , lets you enhance running and adjustments . without question , that rislone zinc will help cut / remove that engine varnish . that engine heat cleaning ring flush , has an amazing effect on neglect . have it in all my engines , zero smoke , also 2 fuel filters , 1 close to tank another close to carb , drop carb bowl , probably loaded with crud. would also replace all existing fuel lines , fuel hose breakdown is very common, sta bil fuel additive in all my stuff , no issues at all , stay with it , pete
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Got the steering box torn apart and degreased and realized that one of the bearing things in it exploded so if anyone knows where to get a bearing thing like shown in one of the pictures below that be helpful. I also took the head off of a froze up 14 horse engine that we have laying around and shot some kroil in the bore to see if I cant get it freed up in the future. Edit: I'll post the photos later when I can use my Chromebook as my phone isn't allowing me to post photos right now.
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Very nice. I use a combo platter of hammuh 🔨 ⚒️ screwdrivah 🪛 and call BBT.
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@jsoluna That post is THE definitive reference for your front tach o matic.
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Nice catch CD
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The "food fight" comment was mine. I'd say that if not cleaned, the exhaust would have been a mite restricted. Best to find that stuff now. And luckily none of the winged critters were home.
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I was settin' in the shed havin' my 1st coffee & a cigarette. A reply in my original post about the exhaust valve kept eatin' at me. "Looks like a food fight goin' on in there". I got to thinkin', carbon is black, this crap is brown. I got a pick and poked around; it crumpled. I have never seen carbon crumble. I remembered the homemade muffler had some big holes in it so I removed it. Fired up the air compressor, put on a 12" blow nozzle, stood back & blew around the exhaust. Crap went everywhere, then a mud dubber nest came out.
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I have mine still in the box. Pd $20 at an auction!
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C-Series Hybrid Idea
Easton Rich replied to Easton Rich's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
Is there any difference in strength between the two? How do I strength test one? -
Yeah I saw that. I picked this one up on eBay for $41.
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Very nice Don. I saw one on eBay for $120 plus $35.00 shipping. Too rich for my blood.
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My apologies, I didn’t realize you are in Poland! Yes, getting parts across the ocean is pretty difficult. A map of all the members is at the top of this page (Member Map). From it, you may find other members who might be able to help you with your parts search. As for leaks, the fuel pump has a lot going on. The very first thing to check is whether or not any fuel has leaked into the oil sump. Look for it (and smell it) on the dipstick. Other sources are around the diaphragm/gasket between the two pump halves, or from the inlet or outlet connection.
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Got it apart, what you think? A little JP Weld might work. Got a cat scan done, confirmed, cam fubar.
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1969 Wheelhorse, What model, thoughts?
FLtractor replied to FLtractor's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Thank you all. Will pass, even as a parts tractor -
Hi all @ri702bill , rebuilt that k181 in spring of 2018, put it together with a bunch of parts, so could be it was cracked when installed, it all ways had a tic, but not bad enough to pull apart, the dreaded kohler tic. Anyway got to dig up another cam.
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523-H high roller
Lee1977 replied to kpinnc's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
Early 520's and 500's, my 89 520 has one. Later 520's they just modified the battery tray. -
Front tach and hood pivot ready for assembly. Front tach lock assembly ready to install. Front tach lock and shaft partly inserted then E clip installed. Front tach lock spring slid onto shaft then shaft full inserted and E clip installed on opposite end from spring. Front tach lock slid over on shaft then the final E clip installed. Front tach lock release grip installed. Front tach latch assembly ready to install. Front tach latch pin has one E clip installed and is greased. Front tach latch pin slid into place and second E clip is installed. Latch shown in open position. Hood stop rod of my own design ready to install. I think Wheel Horse dropped the ball a bit on this design as the cotter pins get hit by the hood brackets. I use a solid 1/4" rod (you could use the original for this) slid into a piece of 3/8" tubing that has one hole drilled through to accept a cotter pin that holds everything together. Mine are all stainless steel but that is not required. Hood stop rod installed ready for cotter pin. Hood stop rod fully installed. Hood pivot assembly ready to install. There was some wear in the original rod and pivot brackets so I drilled the brackets and housing to 1/2" I then made up a 1/2" rod with holes drilled to accept cotter pins. Hood pivot shaft partly inserted and Right pivot bracket slid onto shaft. Hood pivot shaft partly inserted and both pivot brackets and washers slid onto shaft. Hood pivot shaft fully inserted and pivot brackets and washers slid into place on shaft. Hood pivot cotter pins installed. Front tach and hood pivot assembled. This is the tool I use to install the E clips.
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The bracket is on all the 500 series "Classic" machines. The standard version just has a bushing but the one in the pic was modified to use a 3/4 flange wheel bearing.
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C-Series Hybrid Idea
kpinnc replied to Easton Rich's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
Excellent point! -
I ordered just the one above, I'm not sure if that fuel pump would fit Right now I have plastic one, made in Taiwan I suppose. I think that one is leaking little bit (I noticed some fuel below pump). I'm going to check gasket on old one, maybe there is problem? I'm just gathering some parts in advance (belts, carburator fix kit etc). I ordered parts online,my friend in US will send me these in one big parcel to Poland. I read some posts about conversion to electric fuel pump, that direction would be straightforward (but I will do it if absolutely necessary).
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523-H high roller
19richie66 replied to kpinnc's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
Where might one find said bracket. I must have missed seeing it before -
C-Series Hybrid Idea
Handy Don replied to Easton Rich's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
Plus the Sunstrands have internal pressure relief for the hydraulic pump so chaining tandem center control valves is straightforward -
"Thumper" the snow machine is up and running again, Thanks to Mike. The float came in the mail this AM. Gassed up and oil checked and ready for the forecast snowfall tomorrow. Thanks again Mike!
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I like Electric pumps but I thought I might fix one of the old metal pumps I have. But then I went to Then and Now and found the kit was $32.50, a bit stiff bit OK then went to check out....Shipping showed up as $15.25 Priority Mail Flat rate and then another $4.00 for Handling. I know USPS isn't cheap but on their website Small Flat rate box $12.60 and commercial customers (I would assume that this outfit is big enough to qualify) is $8.75. Sorry I do not like that ... back to electric a bit more money for a Posi flo but Carbole which a lot of people here use is only about $25 shipped
