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Back rims are painted for the wheelhorse
mudmowerdiesel posted a topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
Back rims are painted for the diesel it All most done -
For C-Series tractor I used a product called Rubber-Cal Ramp Cleat. Available from Amazon
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If you oil it (very advantageous), roll in up in a piece of newspaper and squeeze to get out all the excess oil. This way you won't soak the underlying filter with oil. You'll be pleased with how many contaminents the oil filters out.
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Wanted 42" or 48' deck in good too great shape
RED RUMMY commented on oldlineman's classified in Wanted
I have a couple in really good shape and one is a rear dischage off of C120 location 17090 Pa. -
We need a forum for "Airframes". Actually, looking for those black rubber pads glued to the foot support for my 314-8. Anyone know where to buy this stuff and cut my own? Thanks
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RED RUMMY joined the community
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Tony's Towing and Recovery LLC
Sparky-(Admin) replied to Docwheelhorse's topic in non tractor related discussion
Good! Sick of looking at that through my windows (just kidding, no windows on that side of the house)- 1 reply
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@wallfish @Sparky John had bought a doodle bug from Zagrays to screw around with... I stored it for a bit and Sunday he gets to take it home from the Belltown Tractor Show. Has a Tecumseh 16 OHV... so it will never run!! Lol sorry Bill!!!
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@Kali25 once hooked up how easily does the deck move thru the mule drive down angle belt? can you move it by hand ? thats your spindle bearings feed back . often refer to that area , its the collective bearing drag , that makes pto clutches scream . and devour belts in all forms , cracking / fraying , burned starting areas . done a number of those . pete
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No... Up or down doesn't change the ground speed, going straight or turning the steering wheel. I pulled off the fender/seat body unit from the tractor and cleaned the cooling fins good on the top of the hydro pump.I had already cleaned the bottom cooling fins when I installed the new oil filter. As for deleting the Smart Turn I followed the guy's instructions in the video. Just disconnected the Linking flat bar from the steering sector. Rotate the bar straight towards the front of the tractor. Bar and linkage is pushed back as far as it will go to the back of the tractor. There is a pre-drilled hole in the frame to install a bolt, washer spacers, and nut to solidly bolt the linking bar to the frame. (Somebody was thinking ahead of time). I verified the linkage at the hydro transmission would no longer enable the Smart Turn from changing, in anyway, moving forward, or turning the steering wheel. Same for reverse motion. What a mechanical nightmare. Also while I had the fender/seat body removed from the tractor I checked out the cam that moves the hydro shaft lever, that changes the variable grounded speed forward, neutral, and reverse. Foot pedal moves the shaft to its' extreme in both directions. Just a note. With the engine throttle set at about 1/2 speed, rpm, any, slightest, movement of the steering wheel makes a distinctive sound. Not the usual sound. It sounds like it's coming from the steering sector hydraulic unit. Not the hydraulic ram. As for the power steering filter screen. I checked it last year and it was clean. I will check it again just to be on the safe side. I will wash the screen real good with a solvent. I put everything back together and mowed the back yard. A ground speed of 6 mph is more than enough. Normally I probably mow at about around 5mph to get a good grass cut with the 48" deck. Tractor does great for about the first 30 to 45 minutes then she starts slowing down. I end up pushing the pedal all the way down after about an hour. I should get my Grandson to check the GPS ground speed with his I phone. Edit: Where, is there, a vent for the transmission? Jim
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American iron, Crescent 30 Inch Bandsaw
Handy Don replied to bc_gold's topic in non tractor related discussion
BC you are now in @Pullstart’s realm! 🫡 I’m guessing that is at least 150 kilos over the Ranger’s recommended max load. -
At my Dad’s plant, it was flashlights. They’d go home in a hip pocket and “forget” to come back to work in the morning. Eventually, after “losing” more than 2 per year, you had to buy a new one--suddenly losses stopped. Also, to get fresh batteries, you had to turn in the old ones (which had been stamped with the company logo when issued) -- another supply line item cost trimmed. My fave is the apocryphal story of the guy who left the construction site every Friday with a wheelbarrow load of gravel. After a couple of months, the gate guard, now curious, wanted to know what the fellow was doing with all the gravel. The reply? “Gravel, heck, I’ve been stealing wheelbarrows.”
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Pictures would help. 48SD is 107" 42SD is 86" 44RD is 89" PTO to 48" and 42" SD decks is 103" PTO to 44RD decks 98" Hope that helps. Lowe's carries every belt except 86".
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American iron, Crescent 30 Inch Bandsaw
bc_gold replied to bc_gold's topic in non tractor related discussion
Five hour drive to the band saw location for an 8:00 am load, my poor Ranger. -
1987 W.H. 310-8M10 Engine to Tractor Connector Wire Orientation?
Railboy replied to Railboy's topic in Wheel Horse Electrical
Yea I think I have a grip on this. Just need to verify that I have the correct Stator and why I have the photo, plus where the Diode Wire goes, and I figure the other is the head lights. I am following the Diagram and coming up with two sources where the leads of the Stator go. That is the Headlight Circuit, so that should be easy enough to find out, from the Tractor's Side of the Connector, and also, the Wire on the Tractor's Side of the Connector to the Rectifier at the Ignition. Please correct me if I am wrong. I do not mind... I am looking at if I have the correct one, a new Ignition Switch. I have an OEM 6 Connector Ignition Switch that is for a Magneto. That is what the Vender said on the phone when I ordered it. But yes, I paid the Wheel Horse Price. And figure if the one that is on the tractor lasted 40 years, I should be good for another 40 years. Why I had the engine rebuilt. So, thing is now is to do the job, why I am getting my ducks in a row. I use the Tractor for weekly grass cutting. And with the Magneto powering the Spark Plug I am fine, just no battery charging. But yea, blows the 15 amp. fuse at time of Start-Up do to what I think is the grounding out of the Stator, for I found that in one of the Trouble Shooting Test. Yea, getting it sorted and thank you for the info, but yes, just need to collaborate the Diode Side Wire in where it goes for Sure, plus the other Wire to Verify? But as you can see from my photo of the Stator, my Colors do not match the Wiring Diagrams I have, so yes, I am removing the Sheathing off the Wires of the Stator when I do the job to find out colors. Thank you for ya'lls time. Just being a Newbie, which I do not like but I am learning, lol... Oh, Handy Don, I plan to go over the Trouble Shooting procedure again, and follow your lead. But as of right now, I know I had a lead grounding out to the chassis.. Which Sucks... Think that is why I am blowing the Fuse. -
All the 500-series hydros, to my knowledge, used an open, 8-pinion differential with 1.125” axles. There are no obvious or common weaknesses anywhere in the differential--these are overbuilt for any normal usage of a Wheel Horse tractor. Of course, the filter and oil should be maintained per the manual and usage. Bearings can wear and seals can deteriorate with age but both are available from vendors here. So too, the actuator cam and follower on the hydrostatic motor that controls direction and speed. Tous les hydros de la série 500, à ma connaissance, utilisaient un différentiel ouvert à 8 pions avec des essieux de 1,125 pouces. Il n'y a pas de faiblesses évidentes ou communes nulle part dans le différentiel - celles-ci sont surdimensionnées pour toute utilisation normale d'un tracteur Wheel Horse. Bien sûr, le filtre et l'huile doivent être entretenus conformément au manuel et à l'utilisation. Les roulements peuvent s'user et les joints peuvent se détériorer avec l'âge, mais les deux sont disponibles auprès des fournisseurs ici. Il en va de suite également la came de l'actionneur et le suiveur sur le moteur hydrostatique qui contrôle la direction et la vitesse. Bonne chance, monsieur!
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Measure the width of the cut, not the width of the shell.
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401 Suburban Resto
Handy Don replied to Achto's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
Brownies? Now I’m hungry. -
Okay.. so on this tanker back end piece. I have the general shape 99% to where I want it. The current issue is that the 3D filament that it's made out of, and the filler I am using between those lines, sands off at two different rates. One of my customers this morning... He knows about such things... He said, "Why don't you make a mold out of silicone and then get some resin so that the piece you are trying to sand is all the same density."
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1/ 4 " steel brake / fuel line
peter lena replied to peter lena's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
@ri702bill just the length and upper solid frame 90 degree area is its own jig , maybe a 45/ 9o at ends for clear hose to tank and carb , have not had a fuel degradation issue since , mods . only use regular gas and sta bil , no / zero hose break down in any filter , carb bowls are clean / clear . just my experience . pete -
1/ 4 " steel brake / fuel line
ri702bill replied to peter lena's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
If you go the hose route, look into the modern fuel injection hose. Mostly metric sizes, but 6mm works for 1/4". Much more resistant to interior breakdown using modern fuels. -
Members here have so often reminded me of stuff I thought I should remember that I’ve lost count....
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PREfilters, yes (typically plastic foam). Filters, no (typically paper).
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1/ 4 " steel brake / fuel line
ri702bill replied to peter lena's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
Bob is right - rigid tubing can be a PITA to form. The new stuff - the copper nickel coil - rigid but bendable by hand is the way to go if you wish. A big advantage on under the car lines - it does not "fret" at the mounting clips - no corrosion plating wearing thru and rusting out like the OE and rigid lines. -
Hope you get it sorted out. My 1979 C-141 auto pulls my 42" SD deck nice and snug against the chassis and lowers it with adequate slack to let the height wheels do their job.
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The "export" 518H models had the Eaton 1100 hydros, which are much more rugged than the domestic-equipped 700 series. If the tractors have hydraulic lift (no manual lift arm), and a oil filter under the rear fender, then they are 1100 series hydros.
