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702854boy posted link to manual with factory info below
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Half no haha… factory light.. not special hinged ornament.
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Very cool. Glad it was factory after all. Thank you for the link.
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I've got two table saws. One is portable and the other stays in my shop. If the portable struggles or is too awkward , I'll use the larger stationary shop saw. The reason for the portable is that I can make accurate cuts on the jobsite and fit the 100 year old windows openings. Most of the aluminum windows have the added extensions added to the bottom so I may not have to cut the height only the sides. Like I would expect from the fellows on this site, I'm getting good advice. Thanks to all
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That I believe was actually an option, I've seen something similar in the HL-5 Headlight manual jumble on here, I'll post a link in a minute Here's the link I believe
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How big is your table saw table? If you have a way to support the frame as it is passed through the saw Using a table saw with a 100 tooth blade made for cutting metal (negative hook angle) will make the cutting go pretty easy on the sides. Top and bottom will need more support.
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Based on one of the projects I did this summer I would go with the 100 tooth 10". Keep in mind that saw blades are total teeth, not teeth per inch. I was very apprehensive about taking a saw to some very expensive railing and post wraps this summer but was thrilled to see how well it sawed. I used a 100 tooth 12" in a sliding miter. A 100 in a 10" is better yet. More tpi. You don't need a 'special' aluminum blade. It will state that it's good for non-ferrous metals as most fine tooth blades are. It sounds like you will need to rip long edges so it would easily be my choice to use a 10", 100 tooth in your table saw. BTW.......wear goggles, not just safety glasses. Better yet, a full face shield. You'll find out why. 🙂
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Thanks, These aluminum frames are probably 40 or fifty years old--maybe older. I'm going to give it a try.
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These are typical storm windows and I believe the mitered corners are welded. I don't have them here to actually verify but I looked them over when we removed them thinking I could cut them to fit.
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cutting aluminum storm windows
wh500special replied to Beap52's topic in non tractor related discussion
Aluminum cuts surprisingly well with woodworking tools. We used to have several 10” woodworking miter saws at work stationed throughout the shop in individual workcells that were used to cut aluminum for cut-to-fit applications where we can’t do it ahead of time in a better cold saw. I don’t remember the tooth count, but it’s in the 100-tooth range for most extrusions like 1/8” thick angle and channel. Thicker stock got fewer teeth. We used to use the piranha blades but changed to a local place that also sharpened them when needed and made them with flatter plates. The piranha blades were just thrown in the scrap when they dulled. there was enough of a degree of halfassery with these setups that we largely phased them out, but cut quality was always good and aside from the flying chips it was no less safe than a lot of other processes. The weld shop guys still keep a miter saw handy for their use. I haven’t cut aluminum for a long time on a table saw, but I’ve cut up to 3/4” plate a few times using just carbide tipped blades. It works well but the flying chips are a real hazard. I never had an issue but I would think the kickback danger is increased compared to wood if things aren’t nicely aligned or your technique drifts. it even routs pretty well with a handheld router, but it can get away from you if you take a heavy pass. Depending what you’re doing, a pass over a carbide tipped spiral bit on a router table might work too. soft aluminum - like 5052 - will stick to the teeth. Harder aluminum like 6061 is much more forgiving. There will be some magical feed rate that will get the best results. If it’s sticking, you may have to cut faster. The guys at work apply some kind of stick wax to the cutline at times. I have no idea what storm windows would be made from. Seems like most extrusions would be 6000 series. best of luck and be careful. Steve -
'97 520H for sale; Reason for selling; I bought it about 6 years ago when my GT-1800 engine died which I will be re-powering so I have too many tractors and something has to go. I can provide more information and pictures if needed. Details: All shown in pics included in the price. 998 hours; Engine is in good condition 48 in. mowing deck in sound condition, no rust through 42 in. SS snow blower, I used it twice in 5 years, tire chains go with it 42 in. snow blade sat in my storage shed for the last 35+ years. Rear axle bracket does not go with it b/c I have a tiller for my GT All lights and gauges work with the exception of the engine load gauge. The vacuum nipple is broken off.
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Are these typical triple track storm windows with mitered corners?
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cutting aluminum storm windows
Handy Don replied to Beap52's topic in non tractor related discussion
Absolutely agree, especially when being used on thin stock. Pro installers tend to use a compound miter or chop saw as it lets them hold the stock firmly while making the cut. Is your goal to make them narrower and shorter and reduce the glass area as well? Every storm window I’ve encountered was assembled with cast aluminum corner pieces crimped into a tubular extruded frame. These are not easily disassembled without damage. I get not wanting to caulk, for sure. If this were me, I’d seriously consider: - router the inner edges of the outer wood trim boards to the size of the outer edge of the aluminum window frame. This creates a recessed mounting surface and removes the splintered current mountings. Use a router bit with a guide bearing set properly. (Some manual chiseling to “square” the corners would still be needed) - then, because the “ledge” is still too narrow, add a ledger strip (use weatherproof glue and nails) to create a more secure (and now weather resistant attachment) - lastly, maybe, add a bit of aluminum flashing to re-direct rain coming down from the upper trim piece out away from the aluminum frame. -
It needs to stick out some,because the hole is not blind so it has to be pulled out, but it should not hit the gear cover IIRC. I had issues with mine only working in one direction that drove me nuts for a while, and that was the problem.
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A Chinaman goes to see the eye doctor... After the exam the doctor said, "I know why you're having trouble." The Chinaman says, "why?" Doctor said, "you have a cataract." Chinaman says, "no, I have a Rincoln Continental."
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What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
Ed Kennell replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Put some decks away for the winter. Left one on the 310-8 with Trac Vac for collecting leaves. -
Prototype Tesla
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Art Imitates Wheel Horse
Pullstart replied to SylvanLakeWH's topic in non tractor related discussion
as long as you keep the plow share greased you’re fine! -
Quite true.
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Today I brought Mrs. 953 home from the hospital. Both of us got the flue shots but the flue my wife came down with didn't seem to be the one the shot covered. It was an intestinal virus that hit her like a ton of bricks. She had been visiting a friend at the hospital several times so my guess is that is where she got it. The first symptom was her throwing up right after lunch, I told her if she didn't like my cooking she could just tell me!
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# 26 is for the 10 and 12 HP, # 30 is for the 14 and 16 HP. You can bolt the wrong one on the same flange but it will never run properly.
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Popped my first transmission
953 nut replied to Sparky-(Admin)'s topic in Transmissions and transaxles
You must be living right!
