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Wheel Horse D series rear lift cylinder issues
gwest_ca-(File Mod) replied to tractorhogg's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
I think flipping the link may work -
Suburban - 4x4…. Will it work?
meadowfield replied to meadowfield's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
I've a groove to cut when I make the drive hub and splines... -
I have bought manifolds from Ebay and modified them to use a canister muffler. They can be found pretty cheap ($30 or so). Takes a little welding to make it but they work well.
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I'm the 2nd owner. Original fellow bought it in his 60's and sold it when he could no longer drive. I went to local dealer and they printed out their repair and maintenance history of it. I've had to replace several of the small sensors and the like. Engine and transmission are original and other than the seals we replaced last winter haven't been messed with. It's a rust free truck and I do my best to keep it that way. I've owned it ten or twelve years.
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What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
MainelyWheelhorse replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Today, I got the 42” RD mowing deck finished up and back on. I also tested it. It’s much quieter and goes great. -
I bought my Vanguards with the Briggs & Strattion switch prewired. Best get electrical information from Kevin. Both of mine the trottle hoop is the same. Choke hoop up. As for removing the plastic choke trottle levers. Go real easy with a claw hammer.
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@wh500special brings up a very good point about a safe reference/ground. That didn't enter this retired mechanical engineer's mind. In Lake of the Ozarks in Mo. there are many electrified docks in that lake. Over the years there have been a few deaths and many occasions where something went wrong with the wiring or whatever was plugged into it where people got shocked. An insufficient or floating ground was the cause of most of those incidents.
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You probably don't care...
Sparky-(Admin) replied to Beap52's topic in non tractor related discussion
Actually it’s a cool story. Pics of the truck? -
I’ll agree that in this case water and electricity shouldn’t be mixed. You can “steer” the logic of your switched circuit using either normal open (NO) or normally closed (NC) relays. Valves too are available either NC or NO, so you have options there. (Edit: terminology might also use the words Direct Acting and Reverse Acting.) in the case of a valve, you may also see it listed as a Fail Close or Fail Open, meaning when the control signal goes away it will either close (fail closed) or open (fail open). Usually valve direction is chosen to give you a failsafe condition. For instance, if you lose control power you probably want the valve to reliably close and stay that way lest you overflow the pool and flood the basement. So you’d work out the logic that the valve closes if the power goes out, somebody pulls the plug, etc. The manufacturer of the automatic fill device probably has the logic planned out using whatever combination of switching (the one in the water), relay (if used), and valve actuator they’ve determined to be the best failsafe combination. They also might have selected the action of the switch to be in the direction it is to avoid false triggers due to splashes or waves from wind or swimmers. I also suspect there is some timing action going on with their control. They may require the switch to be open for X minutes before triggering the valve to open. Likewise, and to avoid rapid cycling, they may have a minimum time interval that triggers the valve to open and let water in also to avoid short cycling. These are timer relay functions. If you piece together a diy system you’ll have to work out the logic that seems the most logical and failsafe to you. A mechanical toilet valve sort of thing takes away the risk of electrical malfunction. If you do chose the electric route there is a range of marine/boating products that can be used to trigger an event. For instance a solid state automatic bilge pump switch can get you there, although the action (NO) is probably the reverse of what you’d normall be looking for. as for mixing electricity and a swimming pool, you’re on your own there especially if you source the power (or tie it in any way) to your house AC power. There are ways to achieve safe isolation, but it’s not intuitive and I would venture is not in the playbook of a typical electrician. Keep in mind that even if you were to, for instance, power your system from a battery charger or AC to DC power supply and that even if you have 12V between your DC leads there is often nothing anchoring either lead (+ or -) to a safe reference/ground. You may end up with that 12V supply floating at some dangerous potential relative to the water and the people in it. I’d probably just buy the off the shelf solution. good luck! Steve
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I'll agree with @squonk. Probably 24v dc. That will probably run a relay that operates the valve. By the way @Pullstart, what have you got going the next couple of weeks? I've got to come see you. I'm good maybe Wednesday or Thursday this week or after Wednesday next week.
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Yes it is. I find the big Onan in the 520 is happiest and most fuel efficient around 3000 RPM but that pulley change keeps the blade speed fast enough for a nice cut.
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He said he’s been in the engine already. And he repainted it, it was puke color he said. Tan-ish?
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It’s supposed to deflect branches or falling items (hail) better than aluminum. The salesman told me they will all transition to similar materials in the near future.
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Thanks for that. I stuck the trickle charger on that battery tonight. It was at 12.1v, or about 50% of it’s charge according to that link.
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A lot of time, thought, and effort must have gone into that meticulously crafted installation, and boy, does it ever show!
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Vin did some incredible work to build that tractor. I'm guessing, but that might be the tractor they found at the Zagray show. I remember Vin and Matt found an old cable steer at one of those shows. There used to be some very good finds and plenty of Wheel Horse stuff down there back then. Now, not so much. I found an early 58 with the round rear wheel hubs about 9-10 years ago. AMCrules ended up with that one.
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What's the best way to get the plastic knobs off the 520 choke and throttle levers?
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Welcome to the forum. That C-120’s a fine machine, one I would love to add to round out my meager collection. I never made it far enough North in California to see plowable snow, but I did see some up on the mountains one fine Christmas morning in Santa Barbara. And then we went to the beach!
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JUNK MAIL!
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After me and a buddy, probably ten or eleven years old, saw the movie, we were so impressed, we painted (I don't know how or what we used) our own logos on white tee shirts like a gang member. We were pretty tough little guys riding our bikes on gravel roads (because we lived out in the country.) This posting brought back memories.
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@kpinnc @Lee1977 anybody else know how the throttle cable hooks up on the Vanguard? Where does the ignition wire go from the 520 ignition switch to the Vanguard? The regulator batt terminal goes to batt on the ignition switch correct? Coil kill on Vanguard to coil kill on ignition? I need to hook up the starter relay from the 520 to the Vanguard. Oil pressure switch on Vanguard to where on the 520? Tach on 520 to where on Vanguard? Anybody know the wire colors on the 520 to hook up on the Vanguard?
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My ears ring just from the pepper pot mufflers
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What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
Chris689 replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Well I went ahead and put a Farmall cub seat on my 10-8. Old seat was trashed and rotted so I had this. And I can put an aftermarket cover on it at some point. -
yeah I'm with ya HD I wouldn't do that to any of mine either. To many trees around my place to have stacks though.
