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And a few pics of my 418-8 tractor to restore or parts.
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I trimmed the rod to length and assembled one latch. The door opens and closes with clearance, and shuts well. Now I just need to blow the rest of the latches apart and repeat the process.
- Today
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Proof of concept! I can build the remaining latches and trim the rods to length, then install them in the door frames. I’ll then install the door steel, drill through holes, and assemble. This feels good!
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Rod drilled, post bracket built.
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Thank you but the large base big blocks like the one on your charger won't fit on a short frame with out significant mods.
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Problem with nylock nuts is heat and age with exposure to gear oil differentials can get quite warm and thermal expansion can distort the nylon insert over time it loosens - like others said, not something to have happen in those transmissions... Use the correct locking nuts (even $2 extra per nut over 8 nuts is still much cheaper insurance than having to buy new gears, or worse, transaxle case) we always also added red loctite to the nuts when rebuilding those, even with those prevailing torque locknuts.
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Got a Raider 12 thats missing a bunch of stuff so Im probably gonna part it out. Was told the 12hp Kohler was rebuilt?? It turns over by hand & appears to have compression. Got it in Dec & its been sitting under a cover outside so I've done nothing to it. If interested in motor lmk.
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953 nut started following Nylok nuts
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You CAN, but you shouldn't. We all know two things about the pond family philosophy toward building Wheel Horses, they built a quality product and they were very thrifty (not to be confused with being cheap). The flex top nuts used by Wheel Horse cost $ 1.08 today as compared to the Nylok nuts of the same size at $ 0.28 each at McMaster-Carr. If the Ponds were willing to spend about four times as much for these nuts there had to be a good reason for doing it. Flex-Top Locknuts for Heavy Vibration Image of Product. Front orientation. Locknuts. Flex-Top Locknuts for Heavy Vibration. The top section of these nuts expands to grip the screw on all sides for a stronger hold than both nylon-insert and distorted-thread locknuts. They’re often used in equipment with constant, vigorous vibration, such as engines. These locknuts are reusable a handful of times, but the holding power decreases with each use. Steel These locknuts have equivalent strength to Grade 8 and Class 10 steel nuts. To avoid stripped threads during installation, make sure your screw has a comparable strength rating. Black-Oxide Steel 3/8"-24 9/16" 15/32" 5 94820A430 5.42 Nylon-Insert Locknuts Versatile yet economical, these are the most commonly used locknuts. The nylon insert grips the screw to prevent loosening from moderate vibration without damaging threads. However, the insert may become brittle if exposed to high temperatures. These locknuts are reusable a handful of times, but the holding power decreases with each use. Zinc-Yellow-Chromate-Plated Steel 3/8"-24 9/16" 29/64" SAE Grade 8 185 — 20 97135A235 5.71
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Here is a John Deere rear bagger for a 200 series tractor from the 1970's. What you see is what you get. Also I will through in the bags for it. They are pretty much shot but you can have them for the frames. $125 OBO Also open to trades.
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ri702bill started following A Bud Andrews creation
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A Bud Andrews creation
ri702bill replied to squonk's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
You can teach an old dog new tricks. Well done. And it moves it a tad forward - a good thing - than on a short frame tractor. Added bonus - heel rests on the top of the dech using the gear covers. The arrow decal that says "Keep Well Greased" takes on a new meaning - inside, not outside!! -
He cut it o clear B&S air filter and drilled a bunch of holes for some head lights
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Good point. Since the seal is "toast" already, generous localized heat on the hub portion closest to the axle cannot hurt the failed seal. Did the seal allow the gear oil to get out onto the exposed axle and under the hub?? If so, that actually helps. Allow the newly made "space heater" to cool sufficiently and respray with PB - that helps the liquid migrate deeper into the joint. These can be quite stubborn after 35 or more years of being together to remove.
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The storm that affected Springfield, Missouri happened yesterday (Tuesday). News this morning says that several air planes at the airport were damaged and I assumed put out of service. There was more than 10,000 windshields broken. Local hospitals reported several folks treated for hail strikes to their bodies. I guess I never gave it much thought as to the damage beyond roofs and vehicles.
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Snow blowers use outer pulley
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No balance gears in that spec number either. There are many variations of crankshaft for K241 engine only 5 of them had balance gears. Very uncommon to have them.
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There are no balance gears in that engine. 46333
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Another MacKissic Mighty Mac thread
Bar Nuthin replied to Bar Nuthin's topic in Implements and Attachments
Just saw this on FB Marketplace - posted in the group, (1) Wheel Horse Syndicate | Facebook or wheel horse tractors show and sell ! | Facebook -
WHX?? started following rear wheel hubs
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There are a ton of threads here on hub pulling. Search on hub and puller and you will find them. Anything from store bought hydraulic to homemade ones. Check those threads to see if you can come up with something you may already have. If you have the thicker steel hubs a three jaw puller will not hurt them. The more fragile "star" type cast ones you will break them.A heat wrench will sometimes come into play. As mentioned DO NOT pound outward on the it and check the bearings.
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The latch fits inside the door, and I believe with another roll pin through that 304 stainless steel rod, it can create a key to engage the post bracket. I’ll need to trim the length of the rod, but it’s proving to be doable.
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A little cut here, drill there, and tack weld about, and I have a latch that fits inside my door. It still has no way to hold the door from swinging in the wind (yet).
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I received my latches, and got to work. The door is just a tickle over 1-1/2” thick, built using 2x4s and all. The first issue, was that the brackets were more than 2” long. That doesn’t work for me. I bought some uni-strut for this project and I have not used any yet. I have a feeling things will change soon.
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Couple more pics
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953 nut started following rear wheel hubs
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I have run into this problem before. I drilled into the key using the keyway as a guide with bit the same size as the key, this weakened the key enough to allow it to crush down and come free.
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Weather is looking good for Saturday! Don’t be scared of the rain…it’s not supposed to start till after 5pm
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