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Peerless 900-028 shifter stuck in gear
gwest_ca-(File Mod) replied to Rob.in.motion's topic in Transmissions and transaxles
I recall in the distant past that owners were having a lot of shift key problems but never understood the problem nor have I every seen some. Never hear of it anymore unless that is the problem with this one. -
How much oil was actually in it? There are other things that can happen besides low oil. For example: Not running long enough to evaporate all the moisture in the crankcase, a little stays in the rod bearing and rusts the crank, just a little at first. Next time it runs, the rust smears off a little bit of rod alloy. Now you have a little groove, which will hold more moisture the next time you don't run it long enough. You get more rust, which smears more aluminum and makes more grooves, etc. Keep doing it, at some point enough aluminum builds up that it seizes, breaks off the big end of the rod and throws the piston to top of bore where it stays. In any case, as they say, you are here. And you know what needs to be done.
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This hit really close to home... My C-105 just did something very similar a couple weeks ago, and I'm still not at all sure exactly what happened. All I know is the top of the piston blew apart, rings mangled, valves bent, that sort of thing. I'll know more later, and may post about it separately. My wife and daughter both question my decision to try to get this engine rebuilt if it's possible. I just chuckle to myself and try really hard to answer their questions, knowing full well they'll never truly accept it. Whatever. Carry on.
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CB Radio antenna help needed.
c-series don replied to ebinmaine's topic in non tractor related discussion
I think no matter what, you need two antennas just for the cool factor. Even if only one is hooked up, two will look cooler! -
Ohhh I thought he meant the town of northeast.
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My first k181 did this. I knew it used oil, but it had been about 1/4 qt across the whole of the summer. It apparently got much worse very quickly. I had it running to warm the oil before a change and had to go deal with some kid thing. It sounded 100% normal when I walked away. The guy across the street said he heard a loud pop, and then it shut off.
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2026 Portland Antique Engine and Tractor Show
Bar Nuthin replied to Bar Nuthin's topic in Show Pictures
Wisconsin was finally lit up today. -
2026 Portland Antique Engine and Tractor Show
Bar Nuthin replied to Bar Nuthin's topic in Show Pictures
Apparently, there is a lucrative market for toy tractors. Like anything else, there are specific models and features (like open grille and closed grille) that affect the value. We talked to a friend today who said that his buddy sold 2 (restored pristine) today in Portland. One for $1,000 and another for $1,250. Said he only sold them so that he could buy a different lot of 3 rare tractors to restore. Unbelievable! - Yesterday
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Your battery should show more than 12v, and keep in mind that testing continuity is just one tool and has its limitations. A single strand in a wire can show continuity but the entire wire might have very little capacity to carry current from one point to another due to corrosion or broken strands. If your issue was a safety switch, the solenoid would not click when you turn the key. It's wanting to send power to the starter but there isn't enough of it somewhere in that circuit (see post #12).
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Now that we have confirmed that your solenoid is working as it should we can backtrack from there. Is the START light illuminated when the key is in the start position? The LOW OIL relay has four wires going to it. Orange, Black, Light Blue, and Purple. The Black wire needs to be grounded. If the Orange wire has 12 volts on it while the key is in the start position your engine is low on oil (Oil light should be on if oil is low) or the switch in the engine is bad. You should have 12 volts on the Light Blue wire of the LOW OIL relay with the ignition switch in the start position. If you do have 12 volts on the Light Blue wire but did not have 12 volts on the Purple wire the Low Oil relay has 12 volts to the Orange Wire or the relay is defective. If the Light Blue wire has 12 volts on it we can move to the Neutral Switch, the Neutral light should be on with the key in Start. If not, you may need to locate the switch and adjust it where it will respond to the direction control being in neutral. Next in line will be the PTO switch, the PTO light should be on with the PTO disengaged and the key in the start position. If not, you may need to locate the switch and adjust it where it will respond to the PTO being disengaged.
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Saw this on Facebook. I would love to have some people's wallets even if its just for a day
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Expensive yes but hopefully worth it in the end.
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Yes, i never had AC in the shop so I am looking forward to that. I had a propane furnace but I am getting tired of paying for the tank rental and just buying propane in general. I am hoping the heat pump can keep up in the winter but if not I have a 5000 watt heater for backup. The house is getting a new heat pump with an electric air handler for air circulation and backup as well. The house central AC unit has been on the way out for a few years now and this summer the furnace blower went out and it is $1200 just for the part so I am just getting rid of the whole setup. I hope that I am not making a big mistake putting these in. I will let you know next year how they work.. These are both high seer inverter units that are supposed to be very efficient and work in the cold.
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1973 18 HP Automatic {1-0610 8} With Some Implements
BradKahler replied to BradKahler's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Well, I think I'm going to have to go to Plan B (or is it Plan C?!) I added a 1" thick bearing splitter directly against the back of the hub and tried again. This time I also used my high torque Milwaukee impact and you can see the results in the picture below. Needless to say it startled me a little when the rod let go I suppose I could upgrade from 3/8" to 1/2" all thread but I don't think I'd see much difference in the outcome. The hub hasn't budged. I see two options left, one would be to split the cases and try and find a hydraulic press wide enough to fit the hub through the support beams. The other is to cut the axle off and press the shaft out after words. The latter option will cost me around $100 for a replacement axle and hopefully the existing hub is salvageable. My local one-man machine shop has a large press and I'm going to check to see if the hub will fit up through the cross members. On a slightly different topic, I received the new replacement front spindles today. A huge shoutout to A-Z Tractor for having them in stock. The rusty one is definitely NOS and I'm almost certain the other one is as well. Also, I picked up the newly fabricated front axle pivot shaft which means I'm fairly close to being ready to put the front axle and spindles back on the tractor. To bad I can't say the same for the transaxle... -
Very understandable I got heat but no A/C but don’t think I wouldn’t have it if I could get warden on board. Well got both in part of it but not main shop.
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Penetrol (Before and After)
Beap52 replied to squonk's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
I've used pump up sprayer to apply Penetrol to my pickups for several years. I spray it in places such as inner fenders, inside doors, door rockers, frame most anywhere I can get it. and I'm quite pleased with the results in protection from rust. I don't apply it to the paint What it does to the tractor finishes pictured is amazing. -
I have heat and AC in the shop. Northern climate it's unavoidable.
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Shop with a heat pump..... You just can't hide $$$.
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For heat and AC?
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What we have here is a 0736TL04 tiller and fitments needed to mount on many long frame, C series, 300/400/500 series tractors. Notable details: Gearbox and tines have low hours. Tarp had blown off mid-mount idlers and got rusted up, probably need penetrating oil and new idlers. Axle mount is rusty/restorable/useable. Lift cable has nylon worn through on one side (they tend to do that). One rear jackshaft bushing has couple ears broke off, and jackshaft e-clips are lost. Belt is original. See picture, ask questions, more pictures available. Pick up in my back yard near Elida, Ohio. Bring help to load, or ramps or something. I think it may be worth $100. - or - Would consider trade for a used car or truck hood that I can use for a sled to drag firewood and equipment around on, something kinda rounded without points or ridges to catch. Have been using an S-10 hood for years, and it's wearing through becoming less useable. What 'cha got?
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Hole to get fixed.
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At that price point the “fun” part of the hobby is over and it’s become an investment/business dealing or a huge gamble. I’m plenty happy with all the $300-$1000 rigs I have here.
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My pedal tractor was a hand me down. I broke the steering wheel off of it. My Grandfather made me a new one out of wood.
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I have two fenders primed although one of them needs more sanding and a re-prime. Two hoods are stripped and ready for sand and prime. I am getting a heat pump installed in the shop so it is a mess right now.
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Another rainy day do I started dismantling the engine for cleanup. I do not believe it needs a full tear down as it ran quiet and smooth. I took some picture of the tin work so I can put it back together properly. Choke and throttle linkage as found. Flywheel ready to be pulled Flywheel puller installed after chasing the threads for the puller bolts. Flywheel pulled and very dirty inside. Alternator coil is remarkably clean as compared to the flywheel for some reason.
