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does anyone know where i can get a new starter for my charger 12 ??
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I use SnowJet on STs and Snow Shovels prior to snow storms - works great. I think Gary hit it on the head. The gap is very small and amazed at the amount of snow that sneaks thru. May try to finish cleaning this storm. If it works - great. If not, will pop rivet a piece of rubber. Thanks for the responses.
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Front greased then the hub cap was installed.
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Well a little bit of thawing seemed to really help. Wet concrete grips better than frozen. So got a couple driveways done. Then my friend and I got a Wheel Horse Man Date in as we plowed the parking lot for small school. Mine is the 416-8 and his is the 417-A. We were plowing after dark for a few hours. First time I needed the headlights for work. Was glad I had them though. Parking lot lights were out. But we got it cleared off pretty good.
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Snow builds up right there since that's where it's directly blasted too and hits the chute the hardest. You can spray any of that stuff, as I've tried them all, but it will always wear right off of that spot pretty fast anyway due to the impact and friction of so much snow going through. Mine does the same thing but the amount of it falling back out is no concern to me. But the flap idea Gwest posted should solve it. PM me your address and I'll send you a piece of 45 mil EPDM rubber roofing material if you need something use and want to try that. Cutting an old inner tube would work for making a flap too. I tried using stiff plastic this year to line the entire chute for slickness but that spot got blasted right off on the first storm and broke it. The bottom section of plastic is still there and works well to solve the snow sticking to that section.
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When the plug fires with the wire held away from the plug you are increasing the plug gap which increases the spark voltage. With that happening one has to assume everything up to the plug is OK meaning the components are not leaking voltage to ground and the coil has the ability for higher output.
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Front wheels ready to be installed. Front wheel shim washers hubcap washers cotter pins and hubcaps ready to be installed. Front axle tilted up so wheel slides onto spindle easier. Front wheel slid onto spindle. Shim washers then hub cap washer slid on and cotter pin slid in to find proper shim washers required. This is trial and error with the shim washers I had on hand until I found the right combination that allows the cotter pin to be inserted but eliminated excess play. I then removed the cotter pin and all washers. Front wheel removed from spindle and shim washers then slid onto the spindle. Front wheel slid back on and hub cap washer and cotter pin installed. Cotter pin slid in nicely without forcing it but no in and out free play was found. Cotter pin then bent to hold it in place. Front wheel is installed. Hub cap will be installed after greasing front wheel. Process repeated for the other side. Both front wheels now installed. Tractor as of today.
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It stays with the cylinder, it's only done it on that cylinder. I've even taken the "dirty" plug out and put it in another cylinder and put a clean plug in the suspect one, and the dirty plug will fire fine in another hole. Tried switching the wires in case something was going on there as well, but problem stays with the hole. Ironically, this cylinder has slightly higher compression than the other three. It's probably closer to 115 while the other 3 are all either right at or slightly below 110. Hard to tell exactly with such small differences.
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It sounds like a shorting path to ground. Or maybe is it getting oil fouled?? Try switching the plug from #3 with another - see if it follows the cylinder or the plug... I have seen a bad plug before that when removed & grounded the spark jumped the gap just fine. Reinstall, and it would not work under compression. Changed the plug and it ran fine. Not so sure an inline spark checker would be of help - gives a false positive for the condition above...
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Don Have A Great one.
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Chasing an issue with no spark to cylinder #3 on my 52 vac, the plug gets extremely fouled and quits firing. If I take it out and sand it down clean and let the fuel evaporate in the cylinder or torch the hole real quick then it will run great all day. When it's acting up and is only running on three cylinders, if I hold the spark plug wire about an inch from the distributor then that cylinder will start firing again even if I don't clean it, but if I plug the wire back in then it stops firing. All 4 cylinders have 110psi of compression still, and I've replaced the plug wires and plugs but the problem is always cylinder 3. New cap made no difference either. Points are clean. The only thing I can even think of is it still has a ballast resistor on top of the engine, I could try bypassing that but what would you guys do? Nothing stands out given that it "can" run fine, no compression issues, and the problem always goes to the same hole. I've heard that weak spark can start working if you hold the plug wire away like I am and it "jumps", but I'm not sure why it only happens to this cylinder no matter what I do electrically.
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Happy Birthday 🎂 🥳 🎉
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@P3x , sounds like its chute drag , ? the entire inside of the chute discharge , needs some slick help , have any PAM CIOOKING SPRAY ? use that regularly on any snow slide off area , anything to enhance slide off , you also might verify the entire discharge movement ease function / set up , have also used mower guard / graphite spray , on my plow blade for snow slide off , barely engages snow and slide off , pete
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Take the deflector off and add a flap of rubber to the back outside of the chute so it extends up into the deflector. Pop rivets will work. Then put the deflector back on over the rubber. That is how Gravely solved that problem on their snow cannons.
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@Wayne0 just the way I see it , its not one thing , its every collective movement spot . did over a2 stage that was frozen with rust / neglect , those small related gear boxes , require a specific cold weather lube , VERIFY MOVEMENT IMPROVEMENT AS YOU GO , you obviousely have a number of hang up spots . use that mind set on anything , would also verify your PTO MUEL DRIVE SET UP ? FOR RELATED , DRAGGING BEARINGS . realise I sound like a broken record , never had a rotational bearing lubrication failure , with clean out and lucas green chassis grease . those 2 stage units , need al the help they can get . pete
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Have a nagging issue with a Short Chute ST modified with a Tall Chute. When operating with the Chute Deflector (Top with the Handle) positioned all the way back to throw snow High/Long, snow "leaks" out of the gap between the rear edge of the Deflector (18, in the IPC Fig. shown) where it meets the rear Discharge Chute Assy (13). Snow is constantly running out of the gap piling up on the rear of the Chute base, Lift Rod, and the ground. With the Deflector in the most back/rear position it does not look to be much of a gap between the two. While clearing the latest storm, I figure I need to find out if this is normal or if I'm missing something. Appreciate all replies. Note: Could not upload the Screen Shot of the Fig mentioned above. Hopefully the description makes sense.
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Have a Great Day
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On Sunday I plowed just fine with the 416-H. My driveway is only 125 feet long with a mild 1% uphill grade from garage to the road. Under most circumstances I can push snow up to 6" deep. I don't use chains. That was Sunday. When I was finished, the snow and ice wasn't. Come Monday morning there was another 2" of snow, followed by 2" of frozen mix. It was hard enough that my 240 pound didn't make a dent in it. The 416-H would not begin to push it. So I fired up the old Craftsman 24" snow blower. It slowly cut through the frozen mess. Clean up followed with the 416-H.
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Grease fittings ready to be installed into front wheels. These are longer than I would like but they are what I have on hand. The regular length ones are too short to be screwed in properly. Front wheel ready for grease fitting to be installed. Front wheel grease fitting installed. Front wheel bearings ready to be installed. Front wheel bearings used. Front wheel bearings inner seals removed. They actually had more grease in them than I expected. Front wheel bearings ready to be pressed in. I used a 1-1/8" socket to press on the outer race so any chance of bearing damage is eliminated. Front wheel bearings installed.
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Jonathan Fullwood joined the community
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While your at it consider the center support. really helps with vibration and gotta reduce wear & tear on the gearbox.
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Same here and I run the scraper on dead flat on blacktop. The auger carries snow around back to the front and throws it underneath instead of out the chute. Worse when it hits a uneven spot. Center of the auger is getting beat up and should be manicured. I bet installing rubber paddles would help
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When I had a truck plow it had some kind of fluid that was blue in color. Some kind of identifying dye in it prolly but maybe that's what it was. What do they use in heavy equipment that operates in the cold and machinery in say Alaska @c-series don ?
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Gives new meaning to "You light up My Life"
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Happy Borned on Day, Soda
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