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But are they doing so at the correct time? The points gap establishes the ignition timing for these engines. I have seen an engine with a good strong spark run poorly because the timing was improperly set and spark occurred slightly after top dead center. Adjusting the points using static timing solved the problem. Two little hints on finding the timing marks on the flywheel. Prior to looking for the timing marks you can remove most of the rust on the flywheel by using a wooden dowel with sandpaper wrapped over the end. With the sparkplug removed put the dowel through the timing hole and crank the engine a couple of revelations, you may need to do this several times depending on how much rust is there. The keyway on your crankshaft points up when at Top Dead Center. the marks you are looking for will be at the window around TDC so you will know you are in the correct area.
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You are correct about the color codes. Magneto=blue stripe, charge=white stripe. I hooked the solid blue from the donor to the blue stripe, the red to the white stripe. Old motor has the green stripe for the light circuit, which I did not use as the new motor does not have it. I just don't get the no spark issue.
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even better hint - splurge a little bit and get a *circuit breaker* type ATO style fuse at the correct amperage rating and you can drop it in the wiring using spade or bullet connectors somewhere in place of the fuse (for the glass fuses, I made up a jumper with alligator clips to run between battery + and the load side of the fuse holder) - that way you won't keep blowing fuses while you diagnose/test the system - circuit breaker just trips (it can sound like the old school "blinker flasher" devices used on older cars for turn signals) Once you have rigged one up you can stick it in your tool box and change out to different amperages to match the fused circuit you're testing...
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Quick and easy test on points without even pulling breaker cover: unhook all wires from Coil negative side, which takes condenser out of the equation then set DVOM to read Ohms (or use the diode test function) and test between the negative side wire (going to points) and good engine ground - then roll the engine over by hand (spark plug out makes it easier) you should see the ohms reading go from 0 (nominally, or very low resistance) to infinity (open circuit) as you roll the engine over showing that points are actually making contact and breaking contact. typically on corroded points as they close you might see *some* reading indicating a resistance to ground , but if its greater than say 200 Ohms or so (0.2 on the DVOM set at 1K) then your points are not making contact - you may find them "glazed" but smooth , or oily , in which case a simple cleaning (nail file or emery board from your wife's beauty supplies would do, or buy a cheap one at dollar general) to "sand" the faces of the points and then with points closed, a piece of lint free paper (or a dollar bill) between contacts usually would solve the issue. OTOH, you may find the points with pitted contacts (one side cratered, other side with a matching "mountain") indicating condenser failing or simple "they been there too long" failure so a set of points and new condenser set to proper .020" gap should fix ya. If you still have no spark then, you may also want to check the spark plug wire (corrosion, broken terminals, broken wire internally, etc). One way I used to use to test the whole system was after I put in the points and set the gap, then I'd roll engine to points closed and clean em with the little bit of paper (even feeler gauge can leave oily residue on points) and then turn key on and with a screwdriver blade between the engine and the movable contact arm where the push rod pushes on it, just a quick twist of the screwdriver to "snap open" the points should be enough to create a spark to jump your tester gap. - If that proves out you should be good to button 'er up and get 'er running with reasonable confidence it'll fire off. (assuming that breaker cover isn't making contact with an improperly installed/aligned wire terminal)
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Just a quick point, and I am not going to read back to see if it was covered already.The points gap may be set correctly, but over a period of time just sitting, the contacts will corrode. Clean them with a piece of fine sandpaper, buff them with a piece of a business card or the edge of a dollar bill.
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Here is my C-175 Automatic with a Series 1 after I restored it, a little eye candy for you boys 😜
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If the condenser is in question you can disconnect the wire from the coil for testing, if the problem clears up a new condenser is called for. The points gap sets the ignition timing on these engines, best bet is to use the "Static Timing" method as shown in the Kohler Service Manual. This video is also quite good, but i prefer to use a test light rather than a meter because the light will get your attention faster.
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1984 and older C-175 used the series 1. A spec number of 24300 and higher will be a series 2
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I do similar. When I build a new wiring harness, most of the components get their own separate ground wire of correct gauge.
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Where were the Series I used?
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Wheelhorse C120 auto.. tell me about this one
953 nut replied to FLtractor's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
The seat on that C120 would sell for $ 200.00 or more at any tractor show. The only things I see missing are the right side foot rest and belt guard, you would want them for your safety. The asking price of $ 500.00 seems very reasonable to me. -
Until they come up with grounding by Bluetooth, I'll still use another cable. Or, you could be a fancy hero and run it to the nut side hidden away!! Besides, it just might catch your lost 3/8 socket (no 10mm joke here)..
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October 23, 1976, Chicago's first number one release was the single “If you leave me now” which topped the Billboard Hot 100 chart and remained there for two weeks. The song was written and sung by bass player Peter Cetera and was featured on the album ChicagoX$.
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Onan P-Series Ignition Module Replacement [Photos]
Bill D replied to Duramax7man7's topic in Engines
Having done a couple of these modules myself you can save a step if you're patient. You can get a 5/16" box end wrench under the stator to remove the screws holding the ignition module. This will save you from having to remove the stator. Clean everything well with electric motor cleaner and compressed air before reassembly. Changing the module should fix your issues. -
Correct. @JCM might know that
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When the black ground wires start looking like spaghetti... it's just enough.
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Thanks for the replies. I just learned about the Dymysticatation guide yesterday and will be sure and download it shortly. I had ran across a page that had copied some info from that file. EDIT Was just looking at the guide and page 422 shows the main tractor wiring. Like the diagram found here on the forum, it shows a hour meter. My 416-8 never had one. So there is no spark. I have a HF Centech 11 function digital meter so it may not be the most accurate. After charging the very old battery just for testing, With the switch in the RUN position, there was 12.5 volts to the + on the ignition coil. With the switch in the START position and the starter engaged, there was like 11 volts on the + terminal of the ignition coil. I then took the + lead off of the coil and tested it as per instructions found here on the forum. The PRIMARY winding of the ignition coil was reading 3.5 ohms (acceptable 3-5 ohms) The SECONDARY windings of the ignition coil were reading 9.92 (acceptical 6000k - 10,000k ohms) That leaves me guessing that the issue may be in the breaker points? Can a bad condenser cause no spark? Hopefully this afternoon I will be able to take the hood off so I will have good access to work on the breaker points. I probably need to check the wire from the NEGATIVE on the coil to the breaker points and make sure it is not broken anywhere. So if anyone thinks of anything else, please let me know. PS That ohm reading of 9.92 is awfully close to the 10,000k limit? The PO said that he had installed a new coil. PS earlier I mentioned that the starter motor would not engage. After charging the old battery I could hear the solenoid click and then in a few tries, the starter did start engaging. instructions of checking the ignition coil
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A lot of us add a new ground wire from the battery negative terminal to one of the rectifier mounting bolts. This is better than grounding thru painted sheet metal...
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Onan P-Series Ignition Module Replacement [Photos]
wh315-8 replied to Duramax7man7's topic in Engines
It can get tricky, I have 3 Onans, if you get in a bind and need pictures of where things go, don’t hesitate to ask. I will be happy to help as I can. -
Onan P-Series Ignition Module Replacement [Photos]
davem1111 replied to Duramax7man7's topic in Engines
Ah yes, thanks for mentioning the 9-pin. I'll check that out also. Valves are a good suggestion too. I already have the flywheel shroud off. I'm more worried about getting all that back together properly. -
Onan P-Series Ignition Module Replacement [Photos]
wh315-8 replied to Duramax7man7's topic in Engines
I done this with my 520H a few years ago and haven’t had anymore issues. Replacing the 9 pin wire connector was a big issue because pins and wires were corroded which could be what caused the ign module to go bad. I was able to get a module and ring for around 140$. I also replaced the coil, plugs, condenser also. the flywheel can be temperamental. A good solid hammer blow on the end of the bolt and spray lubricant on the crank helps. Figure a whole day to do the job, it takes so much just to get the flywheel cover off, nothing like on a Kohler K engine. And while you have so much off the engine, good time to check the valve adjustments.. Onan Service Manual in downloads if you don’t have it yet. -
Onan P-Series Ignition Module Replacement [Photos]
davem1111 replied to Duramax7man7's topic in Engines
Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. I'm going to be replacing one of these on a 416-H P216g this weekend. The engine has been dying after 5-15 minutes when it gets hot (running time has gotten shorter and shorter). Very frustrating problem. I'm hoping that this solves it. Also, I didn't spring for the OEM part at around $200 or more (almost as much as the tractor is worth at this point) - hoping that an aftermarket part will do the trick. The insulator tip is a good one also, @lynnmor. The part and an appropriate puller will be here Saturday. I tried rigging up a custom puller but it didn't work. I'm getting a steering wheel puller like @Duramax7man7 had suggested and shown in pictures. Just to be clear, the flywheel bolt should be loosened but left in, but turned out just a little so the flywheel can pop loose when applying the puller? Any tips if it doesn't want to pop loose? Somewhat gentle tapping on the backside of the flywheel? (I know hammering hard could damage it....) I had replaced the coil, regulator, condensor, and wires, and thought the problem was solved but it wasn't. Had the tractor sold to a neighbor but it came back after the problem kept happening and got worse. Unfortunately he no longer wants the tractor even if this fixes the problem - says he wouldn't trust it. Will let you all know how it goes. -
@Ed Kennell I believe all 417’s came with a Series 2 and baby moons. I think some 300 series came with baby moons too? Only a true Wheel Horse connoisseur like @Handy Don would pick up on 8” wheels and 6” spindles. Some may in fact think “What is this guy talking about?” My 417-A runs a 44” two stage blower like a champ!
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Wheelhorse C120 auto.. tell me about this one
FLtractor replied to FLtractor's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Just saw your message part about the seat.. looks to be original seat with cushion? -
Wheelhorse C120 auto.. tell me about this one
FLtractor replied to FLtractor's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Oh ok, interesting
