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GATOR MIKE joined the community
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if the deck shell is solid, no rust holes or welds - and pulleys, spindles, belts etc in good condition then the deck, mule and bagger should be worth more than the 150 - i suggest to remove the deck -- clean it up and take some photos of mower top and bottom so people can see its condition - - then the fact the tractor does not run becomes secondary for someone looking for a deck -- that 37 inch deck goes on 310s- 312s etc which are plentiful and often out live their original decks thus people are often looking for the 37 decks for their tractors - i have cleaned up and rehabbed multiple 37 decks which wh owners want
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Removing Mower deck pulleys
Brockport Bill replied to Brockport Bill's topic in Implements and Attachments
agreed - not so sure either - - just looking for any potential solution -
I don't need a switch. I am just contacting Indak to see if the switch used on the magneto ignition tractors with the 2 heavy lugs that carried the current directly from the battery to the starter is the E464A switch. From the description in their catalog it appears to be. I will update the group when I hear back from them. With Toro discontinuing things it makes sense to check with the original manufacturers of the parts themselves.
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That is pretty much what i see it doing now since it swings back and holds it off ground 6"
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Another thing came to mind, a hydro tractor is pushed by the tiller under most conditions, that blade might help control that push.
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Agreed. I just didn’t expect my max bid of $1 to take me within an hour of closing.
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GO NAVY!!!!!
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As always, you guys are very helpful and get me to a solid resolution, and I greatly appreciate that.
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Family-ized it for ya 🫢
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What have you done "WITH" your Wheel Horse
Handy Don replied to rjg854's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Anticipating rain overnight and knowing that moving dry leaves is a LOT easier than moving wet ones, I used a blower to bring them closer together at the back corner and then, like @953 nut, chopped them with multiple passes with the 854 and 36” gear deck. Then the blower put the minced remains into a pile that will be composted. -
Toro/Frankensteins' Greens aerator dumper
Handy Don replied to sjoemie himself's topic in other brands
That wheel/tire set looks just great! I patronize a local shop that has a small wheel adapter for their tire-mounting machine for the front tires--the 12 inch rears don’t need it. They usually charge me $10 per tire (and sometimes they just waive the charge). Yes, the machine leaves marks on the painted rims (sigh) but I’ve gotten good at touching them up. And, no stress for me. -
i found this engine in a pile of old scrap in the mountains near me. i decided to bring it home and see if i could get it running. i'm not sure what it was used on. its a k141, the serial number is 932377, the spec number is 29249A. if im understanding right, that means its from after 1969, because that's when they stopped using letters in the serial number. the serial number is 6 digits, not 7, but the 93 matches an engine from 1978. but the carburetor is a Tillotson E-12A. according to it's manual, (which was very hard to find), it was only produced in 1963. it was used on the wheelhorse 633 and the kohler k41. on the wheel horse engine, the k141 had a recoil start, but my engine doesn't, just a basic pull rope. so i really have no idea how old it is or what it was used for. i've cleaned a lot of rust off, replaced the spark plug, the fuel and air filters, and the fuel line. i've set the spark plug gap to 0.025. when the points are at their widest open, i've set it to 0.020. i also cleaned the rusty junk off the points contacts with a fine nail file. i've also replaced the oil with fresh 10w30. i did take the carb apart and tried to clean and adjust it. the governor arm was sticking, so i took it off, cleaned it and adjusted it how the manual says. when i pull the rope fast, it sparks good at the plug. with all that done, it seems like it should run great. but it does not. its very hard to start. on a good day, it will take more than 5 pulls to pop. it rarely never starts on the first pop, and usually dies after running for a few seconds. if i can get it to run, which happens sometimes, it sounds fine, no rattling or banging. what should i do? have i missed something? im wondering if i should take it to a small engine shop, cause they'd have better tools and way more experience than me. (this is my first small engine project) i would rather not because money, and i'd like to try to fix it myself
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What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
953 nut replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
@Pullstart has a video on removing the grenade gears. -
Acezilla joined the community
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Pete, that is for removing fiber packings like the ones found on steam pumps, valves and other industrial rotating shafts.
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What have you done "WITH" your Wheel Horse
953 nut replied to rjg854's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Well today i got to use four of my herd. The A-60 electric hauled my crippled old body from the house to the shop, something it does nearly every day. The 310-8 ground up some more leaves, much like @pfrederi I am on my second round of leaf grinding and this will go on well past Thanksgiving. The 418-C has the leaf blower mounted on it and we cleared the driveway for about the tenth time this season, Oh by the way we live in the forest. The GT-14 with FEL moved last years leaf compost piles in preparation for leaf sweeping 2026. I will probably use a 953 to pull the sweeper , but which one? -
That would be the lest expensive way to go, be sure to place a fuse between the battery and the light switch.
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I'm glad that little bit of troubleshooting rot you going. to me all grounds should go to the battery negative or the frame. I totally agree with you, having a ground wire go to the deck which can be moved up and down is ridiculous .
- Yesterday
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You might be acle to make/use sumin like this (The tab on top of idler pulley). Main thing is belt has to stop turning for everything to work right. Pulled this pic off interweb and is not my mochine.
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Perhaps the seller withdrew the listing, I've had this happen on a couple of times when I was the only bidder.
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Kohler_kid changed their profile photo
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You need to support the bottom of the belt to keep it off of the crankshaft pulley. Usually, there is a tab on the belt side of the belt guard that performs this function. Wheel Horses generally need to have the belt guard installed to keep the belt off of the crankshaft pulley in order to stop the belt and be able to shift gears. to the forum. Lots of good folks here. I'm pretty sure that as a group, the regular contributors here have broken and fixed just about everything on a Wheel Horse that can be broken and fixed. Even better, they share their opinions and advice freely - sometimes it is even helpful.
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What have you done "WITH" your Wheel Horse
ebinmaine replied to rjg854's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
That's adjustable. My own '75 C160 Automatic does not hold and I leave it that way on purpose. I actually like the need for constant adjustment .. it helps me pay attention while plowing snow. My Ole Man's "Ugly Bruce tractor" does hold.... BUT.... the hilly terrain dictates the need for constant adjustment anyways.... -
On the rare occasion I participate in online auctions I always set a max bid.
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What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
8ntruck replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Like he said - never mind.
