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stevesmith joined the community
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Yes it is. I find it's always a bit of a gamble with lighting.. every lightsource is classified along lumens instead of watts these days. With incandescant bulbs brand A and brand B would produce very similar light as long as the wattage is the same. With LED and the lumens it's a different story.. Things like focal point, color temperature, wattage and lumens all have to be taken into account. On the plus side, if you've still got old school switches and wiring that work, you can have way more light on the same machine than what was there previously.
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Another "Had to" Drag it Home, C101
oliver2-44 replied to oliver2-44's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Finally getting back to this one. No crank, so I went through all the electrical cleaning connections and coating with dielectric grease. I had replaced the solenoid with a 4 terminal. Learned the unused 4terminal needs to be grounded. PO had removed all safety switches and still no crank. Remembered the voltage regular connection. That was it, the terminals were loose on the meter. So it cranked, but no spark. I had previously cleaned the points an did a static timing. I had voltage to the points, but they just didn’t act right. I finally replaced them and still no spark. I was trying to read points with my meter so I had my wife come out ant turn the key. Bingo blue spark in the spark tester I still had connected. Of course she asked why I’d been working on it all day PS I need some new black plastic pieces that hold the terminals on the key switch and regulator. Does anyone have a part name/number and vendor? @953 nut @Racinbob So now I’m ready to put gas in it tomorrow. I’m really curious how it will run with my previous leakdown test and not great valve seating. I have the valve and seat grinder I bought a while back, but I wanted to see how it would run. It’s been 50 years since I used a valve and seat grinder. Trying to fix a previous marginal seat grinding may not be the best place to start. I have a junk block I’ve been meaning to practice on. -
This should be moved to the classified section and to comply with the rules, the price must be listed. One of the mods can move it for you.
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Also if anyone has or knows the part number for the black plastic piece that holds the terminals for a C 1x0 -Series starter switch, and voltage regulator, I need them and some for spares.
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I just modified, cut off 1 end, of a regular oil filter wrench so that I could just spin the filter off without having to reposition the wrench. I added the bolts so I could push the filter off the wrench easily.
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🔴 1972 Wheel Horse Bronco 14 Automatic – Vintage Garden Tractor For Sale – 1972 Wheel Horse Bronco 14 Automatic Beautiful vintage 1972 Wheel Horse Bronco 14 Automatic. This is a great-looking example of the classic Wheel Horse garden tractors from the 1970s. The tractor has excellent original vintage styling, including the Wheel Horse hood decals, original-style dash and controls, steering wheel, seat, and 14-hp Bronco badging.
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manfixit changed their profile photo
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I agree witb all of the above. The only thing I'll add is the 2 stage is a beast to move around, over 300 pounds. I have a dedicated spot in my shed so I can drive the tractor and blower in, and drop the blower for the summer. Come winter just manuever the tractor over the blower and reinstall. Of course if you have room for a dedicated snow machine....
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I NEED PARTS FOR A 8 SPEED OR 6 SPEED TRANSMISSION HI-LO ASSEMBLY Good condition, but don't have to be perfect. This transmission had water in it and isn't perfect. I have enough other parts to replace what it needed except these. PS if you have the guts to a six speed I could be interested in it also. Shipped to Marble Falls, Texas 78654 57 DETENT BOLT 7213 58 SHIFT LEVER ASM 7214 59 SHIFT FORK- HI/LO 7203 60 DETENT BALL 61 STOP SPRING 106030
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856 K181 cylinder pictures. Terrible quality.. condition?
Achto replied to FLtractor's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
I added the Kohler manual to my post above. This manual has great step by step instructions for disassembly and assembly. When you look through the pug hole on a flat head engine, you are looking at or between the valves, you can not turn the camera enough to see down the bore. Look at the pic below, the plug hole is over the two smaller holes for the valves. Under side of the head. -
856 K181 cylinder pictures. Terrible quality.. condition?
FLtractor replied to FLtractor's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Oh I read online that the cylinder can be looked at with borescope through spark plug hole … so then what am I lookin at.. the combustion chamber? Was hoping didn’t have to take Head off engine. Gonna have to research how to do so as never done on any engine -
856 K181 cylinder pictures. Terrible quality.. condition?
Achto replied to FLtractor's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Really hard to tell through the spark plug hole, mainly because you can't look into the cylinder. A better way to know is to take the head off. This allows you to inspect and measure the cylinder bore. I have not encountered too many K model Kohlers that were not worth rebuilding yet. Engine not worth rebuilding - 1 - There is a window (hole) in the side of the block where insides exited. 2 - The bore is more than .030 over sized already. 3 - Water intrusion has rusted the insides beyond repair. Get the bore and crank pin measured before ordering any parts so you know what you will need. One source for parts https://www.ebay.com/itm/143366218290 You will most likely pay about the same amount for machining as you do for the parts listed above. The Kohler manual does a great job of walking you through the rebuild process from start to finish. https://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/tp_2379.pdf -
Maybe it’s different bolt I’m thinking of.. this one had bracket blocking easy access to it. But only looked at it quickly in the dark with phone flashlight. Will have to look better in daytime
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That bolt isn't that hard to access. You already have the hood open and the belt guard off, at that point it is practically out in the open. Sight unseen I would suspect the real problem is your tooling.
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Evening, attempted to remove 856 starter generator to bench test it but didn’t know there was a very difficult to reach bolt in the middle underneath it, securing it to tractor engine. Any advice how to best reach and loosen it? Couldn’t get a very good picture being outside in dark but it’s directly middle holding it on. I believe it is # 14 bracket bolts from Pfrederi”s diagram from a different post.
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856 K181 cylinder pictures. Terrible quality.. condition?
FLtractor posted a topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Evening, Used cheap phone borescope first time ever looking at cylinder … to look into 856 K181 cylinder to see condition.. terrible quality but can someone tell me what I’m looking at? Worth keeping this engine based on these pictures if able to even tell that? - Yesterday
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A reciprocating saw (Sawzall) with a new 18TPI metal blade. Variable speed control is a must. Wrap the underside of the blade once or twice with Gorilla tape to space the blade up off the shaft. Slow controlled guidance of the saw.... in an area that does not have the setscrew.
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Lol. It's the cheapest one on Amazon.
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Like the real bike stand!
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Here's the pics I promised.
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I used to live in Foster, but moved right over the border not too far away in CT. How would I cut the collars without damaging the areas around it? An angle grinder wouldn't have enough clearance to cleanly cut most of them. A dremel might do it, but I'd probably go through a lot of cutoff wheels.
