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Finally I can load pictures again. Pictured here are two Pittsburgh Harbor Freight hammers. One has been heavily modified to reduce weight. The hickory handle they come with is hidden under some kind of ccc lacquer so I let the wood out to breathe in some Danish Oil. Big improvement.. I can drive nails faster with the aprox. eighteen ounce head than with the original 24. Both hammers bought new were only fourteen dollars combined so I can afford having a little fun with them.
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Today I tilled it a couple times too. When rain clouds are in the radar, I’ll get my seeds on the ground.
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I front mount mowed (my first time mowing with a hydrostatic Wheel Horse!) and cultivated the food plot area.
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This stand has been in this oak tree for 2 years now. The hanger, for 1. The tree is actively eating them for sure! I see the beans right behind me have quite a few tops eaten off, and the mulberry tree in front of me is granting plenty of cover. It was covered in poison ivy, but I’ve managed to kill it all slowly with the hack and squirt method of herbicide treatment.
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What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
Ed Kennell replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Made a couple mods to the Wheel Horse tiller. The front cover plate was missing, so I scrounger a piece of steel from an old real estate sign with the intension of sanding it and using the red primer method of creating a matching patina. When I got it installed, I just couldn't sand off the eagle. The tiller was only 22 inches wide, so I added two pairs of tines to each side to make it as wide as the rear tires. -
Guy's gotta wonder if MTD isn't the scourge of the outdoor power industry. I suppose now that big boxes rule. Still why wouldn't someone buy from a brick & mortar with guys turning wrenches out back?
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Sunset last night. That's actually a rainbow but the camera did not catch the other colors in the fading light.
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Yes. the one on the right will work. You will also need the axle bracket to mount the plow.
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Corporate mergers/purchases and bean counters have killed off a bunch of excellent machinery companies. The second bankruptcy the company I worked for was the result of several acquisitions of companies that didn't work out instead of investing in the original core business. I don't think it helped that the executive staff at the time came from the aluminum can industry into a lower volume, heavy steel stamping business. I've vented. I'll get off my now.
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Start your trouble shooting by checking the connections on the battery cables - they need to be clean and tight at both the battery end and load end. I'll agree with @gwest_ca. Ammeter can go bad and kill power to the various systems on the tractor. I've got a 1973 14-8 that has a similar electrical system to your tractor. The safety switch on the PTO lever does not always close with the lever in the off position, resulting in no crank. If I gently pull the lever towards the steering wheel, the switch closes and all works as it should. Got to check the bushings on the lever and maybe adjust the switch one of these days..... Good luck.
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You need the one on the right. Here is a list of them. You also need the correct rear axle brackets. Dozer DNA of long tractor frame dozer blades 1966-1967 model BD-426 - Fits LONG frame tractors - Mounts ahead of the rear axle - replaced by 1968 model 6-1111 - Fits LONG frame tractors - Mounts ahead of the rear axle ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1968 model 6-4111 - First to fit LONG & SHORT frame tractors and first to mount under the rear axle with a loose A-frame crossbar - Lift bracket behind crossmember - replaced by 1969 model [6-4112 + 6-9621] - First to have lift bracket ahead of crossmember 1970-73 model [6-4113 + 6-9622] 1973-74 model [6-4113 + 6-9623] 1974 model [6-4114 + 6-9624] 1974 model 6-2131 1975 model 6-2132 1976 model 6-2133 1976 model 66-42BC01 1977 model 76-42BC01 1978 model 86-42BC01 1979 model 96-42BC01 1980 model 06-42BC01 - (Last blade to have a loose A-frame crossbar #7701) 1981-1984 model 06-42BC02 (Up to here including this one they are 42" wide) and (First blade to have a welded-in rear A-frame crossbar) 1984-1989 model 06-48BC01 (They are now 48" wide) - replaced by the following 1990 model 06-48BC02 (Last blade to have 3 angle positions) 1991-1993 model 06-48BC03 (First blade to have 5 angle positions) 1993-2000 model 79350 - Up until now uses a wire to index pin (105-1502 cable kit adapts 2000 and older GT Classic-Series blades to fit 2002 and later tractors) 2001 model 79350 - Has cable to index pin (105-1502 cable kit adapts 2001 and older GT Classic-Series blades to fit 2002 and later tractors) 2002 2004-2009 2012 model 79364 - Has cable to index pin (105-1501 kit adapts 79364 blade to fit 2001 and older GT Classic-Series)
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See if you have power on both terminals of the ammeter. If not remove the negative battery cable from the battery. Put both ammeter wires on one terminal - does not matter which. Reinstall the negative battery cable to the battery. No fuse originally but one may have been added which is a good idea. It would be between the solenoid battery terminal and the ammeter. The reason for negative cable removal first and last connection to be made is if you accidently short the power to the chassis no harm done. The circuit is not complete because there is no negative connected. Let us know what you find.
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There. I fixed it for you.
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I do not know if they are the same but in the first model year 1988 the engine to tractor connector is numbered. Click on the fuzzy picture to see it.
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Happy Birthday 🎂 🥳 🎉
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The little vent on the right rear sheet was fun. I pulled the vent off, forgot to measure, then proceeded to install the aluminum! A little precision guess work and I found center enough to saw a 2-1/2” hole, then trim the edges to 3” with some hand shears.
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The hauler is coming along nicely! I built a little jumper to stick in the 7 pin pigtail. It illuminates the marker lights off the battery. I am considering wiring a shore power plug to run when we have power available. I also began installing the .030 aluminum sheets. The remaining pieces I’ll bring to my father in law’s shop to make use of the stomp shear and press brake to have clean edges and cut to fit.
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Thanks so much. I was looking around the PTO and it appears to be a little bit of oil around there. I was wondering if maybe the oil is getting on the belt. These are all great ideas. I’ll take a look and see what I find out. Thanks for your help. I’ll let you know what I find out.
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Im looking for a voltage meter for a 1985 310-8 I don’t know if there year specific I recently broke the glass on mine and want a original replacement or one that looks exactly the same
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I have a 312-8 and a C-175. I have the option to purchase a plow from someone who has two similar but slightly different plows. Do I need one of them in particular? And do the two machines use the same plow? I’ll attach a photo of the plows
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Help battery was weak / dead and used my truck battery to jump (vehicle NOT running). Now I get nothing...turning key does nothing...no sounds, noises, movement, etc. Is there an ignition fuse or something I may have sent to much power to and shorted? Could I have blown out the starter? There was no smoke, smell and no heat meaning no areas seemed to get hot. Starter is relatively new. Thoughts? Thanks in advance.
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From my 1985 312-8 . They just closed the doors last month after 70 years in business!
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Too early in the morning. Corrected my speelin'
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Just to be clear, the PTO ( power take off ) clutch is only used to power the deck. The tractor drive wheels are powered by a different belt that drives the tranasxle. This drive belt is engaged by a spring loaded idler pulley that is disengaged when the clutch pedal is depressed. As stated above, there are several problems that could cause this drive line to lose power. I would connect the rear of the tractor to a tree or vehicle and then put the tractor in 3rd gear and gently engage the clutch while a second person watches the transmission pulley and belt. If the belt is moving and the input pulley is turning but the tractor wheels are not turning, the input pully key or one of the wheel axle keys may be missing or damaged. If the belt is not moving, the belt may be worn or the idler pulley belt tensioner spring may be broken. Read this thread to get a good understanding how the tractor drive train operates .310-8 Clutch Problem - Transmissions and transaxles - RedSquare Wheel Horse Forum
