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here ya go just put this one on the other day. Be prepared for some sticker shock if you haven't purchased one yet.
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My experience shows me that if a carb EVER had ethanol or MAY have had ethanol (you don't know) then it just automatically gets a rebuild. That's become no more negotiable than an oil change. A lot of the nut driver sockets that attach to a screwdriver 🪛 handle type driver will work. Not the one piece tool. The little separated bits.
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Recycler joined the community
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I guess it is possible, but I have never seen a filter that was too big. Did you try greasing and stretching the grommet?
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How long will this last?
WHX?? replied to andrewLL's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
So I pulled the trigger on the bearings @Achto posted since i have a set to paint. They look pretty good ... fairly tight and only maybe a couple thou of wiggle. Picked a seal and yah very little grease in them so they will get repacked with greasy Pete. -
I have a 1977 (or so) International tractor at our place in Virginia, which unfortunately doesn't get a lot of exercise, and routinely sits for weeks or even several months at a time. Back in 2008 I met and started hiring a local retired IH mechanic to take care of my larger maintenance and repair tasks on this tractor, and he recommended Stanadyne products. I've been using their Performance Formula ever since, with apparently good results. I don't believe I've ever had any fuel issues since then, even though I'm not especially religious about keeping the tank full. I use whatever on-road diesel I can get locally, seems to be good enough. And I get the fuel filters replaced every 200 hours or so, which in my case works out to be about every 3-4 years. So far, so good. By far, my biggest problem with this tractor isn't its own fault, flat front tires. Fookin' autumn olive! But that's a topic for another day.
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First Time Going to Big Show (2026)
WHX?? replied to Thegearhead0324's topic in Wheel Horse Collectors Club Show
You can join right at the show too. Really that kinda sucks about the church group. Sounds like the Lions are being dinks. -
And don't touch yer yapper until you wash your hands. Tastes like crap and makes your tongue and lips numb. ...At least that's what I hear.
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I'm at about my wits end on this issue I'm struggling to resolve. It all began while mowing my yard, when my PTO deck shut off. I came to a stop then shut off the switch, then turned it back on, and nothing....at first. After a few seconds, it kicked off again. Did a repeat of actions and after a delay, it started up again; however, this time when it cut out, the engine started misfiring till it eventually just shut down. After some googling, it leaned toward either a weak battery, or malfunctioning PTO clutch that was killing the battery almost instantly. I also saw that if it was the latter situation, that sometimes it can overheat the PTO switch, to the point of being useless. Right or wrong, my next step was to bypass the PTO clutch connection. This still did not allow the tractor to fire up. Then, to eliminate some of the other possibilities that were mentioned online, I went ahead and ordered a new oem key switch, solenoid, and PTO switch while I had the battery charging (even though only a year old and was still about 12.8 volts prior to charging). I installed the new parts one at a time to see if anything made a difference, but to no avail. Finally, I was able to locate the wiring schematic online and replaced the 3 fuses (even though they weren't blown), and started testing/bypassing the safety switches. The schematic only shows 4 switches in the circuit, plus the PTO switch; however, mine had 2 neutral switches (schematic shows 1) for a total 5 switches & PTO switch. In the end, I managed to create a closed circuit that went to the seat switch, to the brake switch, parking brake switch and both neutral switches with a reading of 12.8 volts at each bypass. I can't remember the name at the moment, but I also replaced small rectangular, aluminum part that had a plug going to it at the same time as the other parts. I don't know what I did at one point in this process, but I did manage to get it to start, but then I couldn't shut off with the key (old ignition switch). I cleaned up the engine ground surface and replaced the connections with new. I don't know if it's some sort of ground issue, or it has something to do with having those 2 neutral switches instead of 1, or what. Maybe I should take another stab at it by replacing the "kill relay", maybe "switch relay" as well, just to eliminate those possible problems. I'm totally at a loss for things to try at this point; and any advice would be a blessing. Process of elimination hasn't seemed to bear any fruit yet.
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Dimensions needed for Mid Mount Grader Blade Bracket
kpinnc replied to BradKahler's topic in Implements and Attachments
Looks factory to me. Well done! -
I have dealt with that issue on fuel level sender floats as well. I am confident it is not sinking. Rubber tipped needle. Tip feels pretty pliable. I bought this unit at the show last year. I only use non-ethanol fuel. All history before last June is unknown. If anyone here sold a Commando 8 with a bunch of added lights and a car horn to a youngster for $450 down across from the pavilions at the end of the fair grounds, feel free to chime in on the history.
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Whenever I got bit I went to the VA and they never tested for it. They said it may show up but probably not. They just gave me pills and sent me packing. I never got the bullseye. My dad got it with a huge bullseye and the doc up north knew right away what it was since it's common up there. They gave him pills where he couldn't have alcohol for a couple of weeks. I'll have none of that ...
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On a ‘79-ish C series with hydraulic lift, do we really adjust the lift lever chain/bar trunnion so that the rubber bumpers on the mower deck draft arms touch the bottom of the foot rests? The geometry doesn’t seem like it would work since I’d have to raise the chain up a couple/several links to get the bumpers to touch the foot rests. And that would cause other issues with removing/installing the deck as well as not being able to lower the deck enough to cut shorter. There isn’t much lift with the hydraulic version. My other C series has the manual lift and it has much more lift and making the bumper touch the foot rest is no problem and it will still be able to be lowered all the way to the ground.
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i am having a problem with getting my gasket on the filter it , it is just too tight to get it on , it is a new to me tractor , it did not have one on it when i got it , not sure what is up ,is it possibe the wrong filter was used
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I am using a 1974 C120 special with a toasted techy that has a Kohler magnum 12 take over. The V61's are the smaller 16x6.50x8/170x60x8.. I didn't confirm my rim size but had 16x6.50x8 turfs on previously they leaked and had previously been slimed and which corroded the rims and required JB to fix rust holes.
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Always a problem. Tom @Shynon was turning sockets down and selling them. Originals are 3/8 aftermarkets 10 mm.
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These are the original wide rims on a C120 8 speed.
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@gwest_ca Thank you for the quick response!
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Here is mine on the C160 and they look like they have enough room for mule drive but I hadn't had one on this mochine in awhile. 1974 year model
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Snelly1985 joined the community
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What year model do you have? I know the 1976 and 1977 C-120 came with 5 3/8" wide wheels I have seen some 1974 and 1975 C-120 with 4" wide wheels. Lee1977
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I have a fleet of diesels (prime movers and generators) that only deploy on occasion...sometimes as much as 4 years or so. I use Biobor JF with good results. I periodically pull samples and have never found growth or separation of any kind. I move fuel from one to another through a scrubber when I have time and replace what I can but it's pretty static and I don't commit a lot of time to it.
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Appreciate any guidance, or feedback: 70's B-80?
kpinnc replied to Buschlight13's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Good point. Most of us cut the pin close to the case, and drill a fairly large hole in the end so we can use a punch to push it out. This reduces the deformation. -
If I calculated right, .02 cents in 1900, is almost .79 cents today.
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Appreciate any guidance, or feedback: 70's B-80?
Handy Don replied to Buschlight13's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Yep. Anytime you hit steel hard there is deformation. If it enlarges the diameter of the pin, you’ve just defeated your purpose. -
Cell Phone Communication While at the WHCC
Handy Don replied to rmaynard's topic in Wheel Horse Collectors Club Show
My car’s cellular connection is mostly on AT&T so it drops out a couple miles from the fairground at the terrain gets lumpier. Switched to CarPlay via my Verizon phone to resume navigation! -
brandan joined the community
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Appreciate any guidance, or feedback: 70's B-80?
kpinnc replied to Buschlight13's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
They will definitely come out with some patience. Just be careful not to get annoyed and try to beat it out. The cast iron case will break. Ask me how I know...
