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Two different types/sizes of rings used on Kohler M14 engines t
pfrederi replied to 1979 C-101's topic in Engines
Rehlko parts page for 601559 https://www.rehlkoenginesparts.com/oemparts/a/koh/61857662855d461d145aad3f/piston-rod-0307008118 -
Two different types/sizes of rings used on Kohler M14 engines t
pfrederi replied to 1979 C-101's topic in Engines
You probably have Mahle pistons in you r magnum they are different than the older K series -
Good eye Dan. I missed that. Just sold my Ber Vac for $400.
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Two different types/sizes of rings used on Kohler M14 engines t
gwest_ca-(File Mod) replied to 1979 C-101's topic in Engines
Your spec number is missing a digit. This one? 1996 314-H spec number https://www.partstree.com/models/m14-601559-kohler-magnum-engine-made-for-wheel-horse-14hp-10-5kw/ -
Nope, they had drilled the stopper holes. That was on Northwest Airlines. I bet you've had a flight or two on that airline.
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Was busy 'supervising' the well drilling crew yesterday that was sinking a new well for the neighbor. The existing well locating regulations forced a location for the well about 1' inside the neighbor's lot and 10 or 12 feet away from my well. 90% of the operation took place on my property - drill rig location, truck access, spoils pool, etc. They sank a well about 100' deep, installed the casing, grouted the casing, and flushed the casing in about 4 hours. Was an interesting operation to watch. Looks like i'm going to need several yards of top soil and a bunch of grass seed to clean things up. Already in discussion with my neighbor's caretaker about this.
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My Trojan "Toraktor" is STILL MISSING. See pic above. Just reminding all you tractor enthusiasts now that the show season is upon us again. DO PLEASE keep an eye out for this in your travels. My phone number is 01580 211376. Many Thanks once again. TCS. .
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Betcha y’all didn’t know 208
SylvanLakeWH replied to 953 nut's topic in non tractor related discussion
No duct tape? -
Two different types/sizes of rings used on Kohler M14 engines t
1979 C-101 posted a topic in Engines
Hello everyone, I purchased rings for a 14hp Kohler K321 engine years ago, Kohler number 236763. I went to install them in a M14 and they would not fit in the grooves of the piston as they were too thick. Bought a different set, 4810805 same thing, too thick. First picture shows the old top ring on the left and the new one on the right. Apparently there are new and old style piston rings used in the M14. Listed on ebay is a set of 236763 and the seller says they are for M14 HP. Magnum M14 engine with Spec No 601500 to 601543. Looks like mine is 60155?? The Kohler Manual I have only goes up to 1995 and has the serial number for 1995 starting with 25 so I assume with mine starting with 26 this is a 1996 engine. Does anyone know what ring set I need, any help would be greatly appreciated? Thams to all. -
Airlines have done this. I was on a Convair 580 turbo prop twin for a short flight, probably in the 1990's. Had a wing seat, and was idly looking out the windows when I saw 2 'rivets' on the wing that were not lined up with any of the other rivets. On a closer look, I noticed a crack running between them, probably about 2" long. This will bring up the subjects of critical crack length and minimum detectable crack lengths in fatigue theory.
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Headlight Bucket Refurb
MainelyWheelhorse replied to sqrlgtr's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
@sqrlgtr how much of a PITA was the headlight bucket to get out of the hood? I’m thinking about pulling the one out of the C-141 and refurbing it. It doesn’t look super complicated, but I figured I’d get a good idea what I was in for. Nice work too, looks like it’s definitely a upgrade from the stock bulbs. -
Examined the flywheel key today... Nuthin. It looked like it was supposed to. In place and aligned.
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I found my old grinder today. Yes, I used it in this shape as a teenager. That power cord has been like that as long as I can remember.
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The mechanical fuel pump on a back up K301 leaked when i was testing the engine. Dug out another one. it leaked also. Decided to try one of the rebuild kits I had accumulated. Took forever to get the darn screws to fit through diaphragm. I could get 3 in then one would slip out, after about 45 minutes of frustration finally got it together ..put it on and it leaked. That did it. I have a bunch of mechanical pumps because I replace them with electric at every opportunity. So this is a clearance sale no more mechanical for me! Big Blocks and a Twin I believe.
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The engine block for my Dodge M37 is still at the machine shop. I'll give them a call later in the week to see how it's coming along. I've decided to eliminate the mechanical fuel/vacuum pump and go to an electric fuel pump and electric windshield wipers to replace the original vacuum wipers. I picked up a Facet pump of the correct pressure range for the carburetor, as well as an inertia-type fuel pump cutoff switch. I haven't decided how I'll set up the fuel filter yet. Here's the pump, the inertia switch, a plate to cover the fuel pump opening in the block, and a preliminary re-assembly of the throttle linkage that I electroplated. I plan to install an indicator light on the dash that will come on if the inertia switch shuts off the fuel pump. It will be super easy to wire. I also received a set of ARP cylinder head studs, nuts, and washers for converting the head from bolts to studs. That should allow me to apply more consistent and accurate torque on the studs, and I should be able to re-torque the head after several heating/cooling cycles without turning the stud and possibly damaging the thread sealant on the 'wet' studs where they pass through to the water jacket. The top of each stud has an internal hex socket to make it easier to install or remove the studs. Yesterday, I applied the first coat of primer to the underside of the cab. It was already in really good shape, with only a few small patches of minor surface rust. There was no deep rust anywhere, and no flaking paint. Prepping involved several repeated cycles of degreasing, wire brushing, grinding/sanding a few spots, and pressure washing, followed by drying in the hot sun for a few days. I literally flooded every seam and gap with primer, wiped up the drips, then primed the underside as a whole. I'll give it another coat of primer before painting it. I still need to fill a couple of seams with urethane seam sealant around the section of new flooring that I welded in under the battery box area and weld a spot next to one of the cab mounts. Today I primed the area under the cowl and behind the dashboard, which has already had the same cleaning treatment as the underside of the cab.
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It was going so well
1968Commando replied to 1968Commando's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
Installed on the tractor, it really isn’t terribly noticeable so I think I’ll just keep it, I think it got some dirt or somthing under the decal. -
I’ve kinda grown attached to my teeth and try to keep them, but 7g does sound awful steep.
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to Red Square. Nice looking machine. I will agree with what has been previously posted. Seems to be top dollar for the tractor so everything should be in good working order.
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They spelled wheel horse wrong on that hood and used the wrong paint.
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I have a couple around here, post a pic I'll see if they match.
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Very cool
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Awesome find!
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A-60 Electric + Custom Tub Cart
SylvanLakeWH commented on SylvanLakeWH's classified in Wheel Horse for Sale
@Achto you da man!!! -
It is a 2 stage - that might fetch a little higher price.
