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Wow, that sounds like a great idea. Since I just bought my trailer last fall, I'm still learning about this kind of preventive maintenance. Last winter I know I poured the pink stuff down the drains and toilet, but can't remember if I put any into the onboard fresh water storage tank. I think I just drained it and left the valves open. It does have a bypass for the water heater so I switched that and drained it, but never knew for sure if I got anti-freeze into everywhere it needed to be. I have 3 gallons ready to go. I think I'll check out the pump plumbing to see if I can do what you did. Sucking it in that way seems like a pretty safe way to be sure it's getting everywhere.
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Been there, done that, cleaning solvent.
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So I sent them these pics pretty much says it all right? Quite clear the pullies are for 4L belts right? Be interesting to see what their response will be.
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Need new voltage regulator.. S/G Belt
FLtractor replied to FLtractor's topic in Wheel Horse Electrical
Thank you for taking the time to break down what is needed. To clear up some areas of understanding… I will not remove the exisiting pictured A terminal bolt that holds on the A stud… You mention the wire needs to be bolted down to terminal A.. yes I know that.. the S/G is currently still off the tractor.. wanted to diagnosis and figure out if possible to get the voltage regulator working and clean it all up before putting it back on the tractor.. You mention the Bolt is broken for terminal A.. the other screw I took off the top.. I have that was on top of the wire ring and was sandwhiched between the two. By broken.. meaning the top of A stud is mangled and stud screw rings sheered off on the top? The other top bolt i took that sandwiched the A ring wire- would the broken Stud cause some issue with the electrical flow from the ignition starter terminal or no since that’s above where the starter cable connects to the terminal? The inside voltage regulator where I push down and need to clean it up- the way you wrote push down and make connection sounds as if it’s similar to the Points that make spark to cause combustion? I will sand them down very lightly to achieve better contact without corrosion. Do they sell modern replacement for these “points” inside the voltage regulator- no not parts cannon loading- just wondering if they sell contact points for inside it. -
Still working on the neighbor's Ariens GT-20. Deck is run off the front PTO via 2 v belts to a jack shaft that runs through the front axle to a drive shaft that spins the deck. IPL call for two 4L-34s. Found this place https://www.gprindustrial.com/en/ that offers the belt with the Ariens part number for a really good price. Hind sight now I shoulda just went to TSC but right to my door for two? So the order arrives and of course they sent 5L-34s. So after many unanswered emails & phone calls I finally get a response. They are trying to tell me these are the correct belts.
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I count 3.
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Automotive wire is generally not available in MC to my knowledge.
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Brine, vinegar and dill seeds is about all that is in there, the ratio of each is up to you. My Grandmother added sugar and garlic making a sweet dill pickle. The juice from those pickles would pickle onion slices overnight as well as hard boiled eggs. Too bad my wife doesn't like pickles, writing this puts me in the mood to make up a batch.,
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520xi slip on tow receiver
Bugzilla46310 posted a topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
Not sure what the bracket in the first picture was for, but I used that to hold the back of the receiver. Appears plenty stout for my needs. The receiver attachment piece slips over the 1”x 1” angle on that bracket. A 1/2” x1/2” angle welded in the receiver attachment piece helps keep it from twisting or moving back into the housing. A 3/4” x 1.75” x 6” block of oak slides in the attachment piece under the 1” x 1” angle and keeps that side of the receiver from tilting up when there is a load on the towing side. Then 2 supports tied to the bottom boss on the housing taking the bulk of the load. The 2 supports also lock the block of oak in place. Takes about 3 minutes to put it on or remove it, though I doubt I’ll be removing it. Heaviest loads will be my log splitter or my 3’ x 3’ x 2.5’ tall wood cart. Already moved the wood splitter with no issues. -
This picture makes the A terminal on the S/G unit look much less broken than the other picture. That ring terminal still needs to be bolted down to it.
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Yes. The S/G is the starter and the generator, and as such it needs regulated, which is what the voltage regulator does. Electrically speaking the only difference between a motor and a generator is the direction the power is flowing. There is certainly a lot to unpack here. I am going to put my responses in red inside the quote to try and keep them as close to the question they are answering. Wire stripper: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IXAK7DE?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1 I like this wire stripper for a few reasons. It is easy to use, works well in tight spots, has an integrated cutter (and supposedly a crimper, but I've never figured the crimper out), and is easier on the wrists and fingers than a lot of the plier-style strippers. The biggest draw-back is that it does not work well on wires smaller than 18 gauge. There should not be any wires that small on your tractor. Wire crimper: https://www.amazon.com/LEONTOOL-Wire-Stripper-Compact-Non-Insulated/dp/B0CHMLCJW4/ref=sr_1_19?crid=K3XCF0X3F9SF&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.3s25cFWOlDGBp_Cc5bsnhhDPDzKYZ924SOqEVx08ZnFDVkAp9c7HvqoHDJsMXAnr_PCWaisu1lOad_im2Rpn8xhZzjbR3pIGKEBhJI9LQJuHUdtDlFKByYQWtrx_ykStwtfg7iu655gMzA0q_uLyNwey3EjnE8ghoBOpid1Z3z8YoQvX00OfdVgendFnb0Qb05j6MkTeaQ1E9uIUbLj-id8oELquch1M_X3ruJt3M07llwvZSd8S2BFTJepgpFy-ONM7ACpam2OCtpJ_50UUW7pLmJXpVGlK7_deVAQZGXw._UpyhpH44IX99zRBAcLB7z0L_nQhdnam6cegCUQ4yCk&dib_tag=se&keywords=wire%2Bcrimping%2Btool&qid=1790982426&s=hi&sprefix=wire%2Bcrimp%2Ctools%2C150&sr=1-19&th=1 I have not used this exact one personally, but this style wire crimper is good. The stake near the tip should be used on every crimp. A non-staked crimp can come undone much easier than a staked one. Ring terminals:https://www.amazon.com/600Pcs-Heat-Shrink-Connectors-Electrical/dp/B0CYM4Q816/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1DD3XJIIYSE96&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.eHygAPEFMm4zJSUjb2VRW5sSHnfpK6r6HiFMx0eQc5gcJARSY35MhOdhDqN3VmVrZYE9Mkcl9O5B8zI_-smlpUZshuoKZGeiwB70bydmV6R2_J-EtvS1N8GMK7V5aCH6BNreWyMUueDxDtCZQswbl84vHv77V9B5DdKgdtCbPkXDQniL8RWvUzLaNxZ83ejYtpWCsCVeUK5Xl92DxN4_9Nz49Buixr5IURn9oRYweiaR7q5-Uu2vQl4R2LuqlL7NSEj9Uc6pvzCQckCJ3cr5vx0xjQ71oIKBwEs02aGR-A8.xmMMyzIZYjBVr3iZ3UINWGTxYj3eocn0HPHLoSumUTI&dib_tag=se&keywords=wire%2Bring%2Bconnector%2Bassortment&qid=1790982563&s=hi&sprefix=wire%2Bring%2Bconnector%2Bassortment%2Ctools%2C121&sr=1-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1 This is not the highest quality set, but should be good. It has heat-shrink tubing pre-installed. Heat shrink is a MUST for any wire repair. After the connection is crimped you heat the tubing and it shrinks down and seals out moisture and provides electrical insulation at the connection, both are important. Heat shrink tubing: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NW_729137 This is needed for proper sealing of repairs made mid-wire. Always buy adhesive laden tubing. It has something like hot glue in it that will flow out and seal once it is properly heated. The pieces in that kit are 5 to 6 inches long, and can be cut to length. Typically, for a well done repair, a piece 1.5 inches long is sufficient. Heat gun: https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-11-amp-dual-temperature-heat-gun-56434.html This, not a lighter, is the proper tool for shrinking heat shrink. The link is to the exact one I own. Butt crimps: https://www.amazon.com/SVAAR-200PCS-Tinned-Copper-22-6/dp/B08R2N8F46/ref=sxin_12_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.c50e4cd8-fa0e-4c88-b77e-b1f9601d89fd%3Aamzn1.sym.c50e4cd8-fa0e-4c88-b77e-b1f9601d89fd&crid=3LK4A8SF8VHHS&cv_ct_cx=butt%2Bcrimp%2Bconnectors&keywords=butt%2Bcrimp%2Bconnectors&pd_rd_i=B08R2N8F46&pd_rd_r=1bab920f-2322-4f7d-9136-d6303b094c8e&pd_rd_w=q0SMl&pd_rd_wg=fF1sb&pf_rd_p=c50e4cd8-fa0e-4c88-b77e-b1f9601d89fd&pf_rd_r=BHX8K4G9ZSGD0T7KG5GK&qid=1790983028&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=butt%2Bcrimp%2Caps%2C156&sr=1-4-e169343e-09af-4d41-85b1-8335fe8f32d0-spons&aref=j0Mj2lguoq&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1 These are for connecting wires to each other, if you can't solder for some reason. The connection can also be soldered once crimped if desired. These with the heat shrink I linked to are my preferred vs buying the crimps with the insulation already installed, as crimping can damage that insulation. This way you crimp, then install the insulation afterwards, no damage. If your smallest crimp is still too big for the wire you are working on you can strip extra insulation and fold it over to make that section thicker so it fits better. This is a situation where soldering over the crimp is a really good idea.
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This B&S Manual gives a good explanation of how the S?G works.
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I used a long frame snow plow on my 1055 for a few years, it stuck out a bit further than need be and made tight spot maneuvering a bit of a challange but worked well.
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So your diagram in conjunction with my 856 specific. Helps thank you. on 856 diagram- what does the F terminal with wire to voltage gen front terminal on far right do? If power goes INto voltage regulator through terminal A. Does power go back into S/G through terminal wire F?
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What have you done "WITH" your Wheel Horse
Sparky-(Admin) replied to rjg854's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Mowing season will be over soon .. got in done seat time on the 414/8 with a 42” RD today. -
Need new voltage regulator.. S/G Belt
FLtractor replied to FLtractor's topic in Wheel Horse Electrical
Terminal F where the wire goes to outside front voltage regulator terminal.. what does that power or do? If starter generator Power goes from battery to terminal A to power the S/G. Adsm08 mentioned above how I remove top cover and sand for better connection to see if that fixes the non charging voltage regulator … is anything in the front picture of the voltage regulator with the cover off? - posted his reply for better understanding -
No, the heavy wire from the battery "+" to the switch, the heavy wire from the switch to the S/G "A" terminal and the ground wire back to the battery "-" terminal are the only components in the start wiring. I run the ground wire directly from the battery to one of the S?G mounting bolts. The diagram below should be helpful.
