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ISAVETRACTORS was company in Maine but is closed if that's the company you mean? Or are you referring to an individual ?
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Did you check with one of our vendors? A to Z tractor supply is probably an hour west of you.
- Today
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Lots of choices out there, esp aftermarket blades. What do you think is the optimum thickness? Something that will let you put a long bevel on the cutting edge. Thanks.
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I'm having brain freeze. Also, can't find him on the Google. The guy I'm looking for is some where up there in Maine, and he sells hard-to-find parts for your tractor. Maine is the only thing that I can remember. But he's got the goods to keep your old girls working.
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Neighbor's '69 Charger looks pretty good now that it has a proper shade of red and some fresh vinyl!
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Steering upgrade
gt14rider replied to gt14rider's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
Got one tie rod done, my son came over with his girlfriend's car (she said it's making a clunk clunk, click click sounds,) well the ball joint was toasted, front rotors and pads, oil change. So didn't get to make two. The steering wheel was brown rusted, well I stuck it in sonic cleaner was evaporust, came out pretty clean. -
Wheelhorse got the frame painted
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sending pm
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Ok, New Topic, Wheel Horse Rectifier Ignition?
702854boy replied to Railboy's topic in Wheel Horse Electrical
I'd say rewire the tractor completely and get a new ignition switch -
Yes he did.
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Wanted. Brinly clevis hitch for classic 300, 400, 500 series wheel horse.
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RIP, Robert.
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ABSOLUTELY
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As expected, it came out looking better than new! I think I speak for everyone when I say that we are already looking forward to your next project!👍🏻
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Longtime member passing
rmaynard replied to Sparky-(Admin)'s topic in non tractor related discussion
The only guy I ever knew that had a Hula dancer in the cab of his snow chucker. -
Depending on weight, put the heavier piece behind the tractor and the lightest piece last in the line.
- Yesterday
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Longtime member passing
c-series don replied to Sparky-(Admin)'s topic in non tractor related discussion
I’d like to add that “The Duke” was my inspiration for me to get a tractor with a cab and two stage blower. I remember him posting those videos here on RS with his “Snow Chucker” and thinking that I need one of those!! He had all those gadgets in the cab😂 and was the first person I ever saw add rubber paddles to the impeller to get some more chucking capability! So Rest In Peace Bob, your talent and love for these machines did not go unnoticed. Your fellow Wheel Horse enthusiasts will never forget you ❤️ God bless you. -
1987 Wheel Horse 310-8 15 Amp. Fuse Blowing after Oil Sender Removed
953 nut replied to Railboy's topic in Wheel Horse Electrical
Hello Mr. 953 nut, I have a question and it may be a basic answer for you. I have yet to do any wire work on the tractor, but pulled the dash and found out if you have been following my electrical threads as you mentioned to post, there is only one relay left in my tractor right now. Ok, you said to connect the Short Purple Wire of the Solenoid to the Light Blue Wire, which if works will solve my problem. And thank you for that. So this is it, do I pick up the Light Blue at the Relay with the Purple or go to the engine connector where as that light blue for sure goes to the Tan Wire then Ignition. Why I ask this, is that do to my modified electrical by the previous owner, I am not sure what up. But you said after the "Jumper" was put in, take the last relay out. I am thinking if you agree, at the connector run the jumper to the Light Blue, not the relay Light Blue after the Solenoid. Thank you for your time. Please ask all questions on the forum rather than via PM so you can have more input. Looking at the pictures of your wiring it is obvious that someone got in there and made a few changes before you. Not knowing where the wires are coming from or where they go after they leave the photo we may want to just add a new fuse holder with a 15 amp fuse and run it to the ignition switch. In your picture the Purple and Light Blue wires are circled, they need to be connected to each-other, not to anything else. -
In the aviation business, the running joke is that avionics technicians are always a little off. Probably from dealing with the sparky side of the aircraft all day. For 15 of my 20+ years working in the Chicago area, I had the same FAA primary avionics inspector who would come out and audit our operation at least once a year. I also dealt with him a lot on other aviation related things so we would see each other quite often. I would always joke with him that he was a little off and that he was the reason for the stereo type. One day I asked him where he had grown up and all he did was give me was his parents address when he was a kid. So I instinctively when to Google maps and did a search and his childhood home was directly across the river from TMI. I jokingly told that explained a lot. However, he did say that he was in the military in 1979 and not at home at the time of the incident.
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One caution with glazing putty. Normally this is lacquer based and it will shrink under the paint allowing your imperfections to show through.
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My brother n law was a marine in vietnam. He will not talk about it. What he has talked about was stuff he said no one should ever have to see. He also is battling cancer at the moment.
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It is possible that some PO really messed up. But as long as he switched the wires to the coil and you have an S/G that gets polarized when you start it ... it may work. I know regulators are sometimes listed as + or - grd. but they still sometimes work.... Is the small + terminal on the coil hooked to the ignition switch or is it hooked to the points and condenser.
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Thanks to the veterans for their service. My dad was an Army Vietnam veteran. His exposure to agent orange is believed to be a contributor to his heart problems which ultimately cost him his life at just 79yrs old 🇺🇸
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The 1077 is a negative ground system.
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That is the original spec number so I doubt this is a replacement engine. Series 2 are good engines...
