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Looking for opinions. I have a B 100 just wondering if I can use 30 weight in the winter I’ve heard people here say it works. I just wondering if I can do this without changing with the seasons. I think the bonus is with these newer engines that has the ACR as opposed to the old engines that don’t I have a 63 64 maybe a 65 10 hp that does not have ACR and I only use that in the summer. It’s not the original engine in a 1056 but it runs good. So let me know your opinion if I can get away using the 30 weight in the winter. Enjoy your day.
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My C-160 was using oil with no smoke. About a pint every month. 1000 hrs. Ran fine. Had a slight rattle. One spring the rattle got a little louder so I decided to put another engine on and tear the original down. Out side of loose balance gears I found this:
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Well Eric I guess you learn something new every day. How do you set yours? I use the round style like he uses or a flat feeler gage?
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More than 1000 hours on it? It might be time for a leak-down test. Older engines can consume oil due to worn rings or valve guides, yet perform well. If it's not leaking it, it's using it... Big question - what weight & type of oil are you using? IMHO - using modern automotive multi-weight oil is a no-no for several reasons. Modern car oil has almost no zinc content - essential for flat tappet cam and valve guide life on these older style engines. Multiweight oils are thin - Kohler recommends straight 30 weight oil for summer usage.
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Copied to Classifieds in Trade section..
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I have a 603 I would like to trade for a 400-500 series tractor that’s hydro in southern pa
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you can't make stuff like this up!
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one of mine is a lot dirtier!
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Define "loosing oil" if you would. A small amount on the dipstick between oil changes shouldn't be alarming IMO...and clean that thing You might want to pull the valve cover and make sure that it's clean so oil can return to the case rather than being blown out the vent. Replacing those gaskets might be in order. Looks pretty good to me for a working unless I'm missing something. A good rinse might show something more but I'm not seeing it.
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Hey all, my C160-8 is losing oil without smoking any at all. I mainly use it for mowing so it’s pretty much under some load at all times. Using Kohler 30w oil and I’ve smelt the dipstick and get no gas smell at all. I do see a lot of dusty oily residue at the front of the motor around the air filter and carb area and the front of the motor that wasn’t there before. It may have already been oily there and I just noticed it today since it was so dusty from being super dry here. Looks like a lot of build up around a small slit on the front of the motor. Seems to be running fine other than the oil consumption. Please excuse my ignorance LOL. Any help or insight it very appreciated as usual.
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(-) to a proven ground, straight to the battery is unquestionable, and yes, then to (+) side of coil in "run" and "start" key positions. IMO the c-120 might be the best find. Good power, 1 1/8" axles, and adjustable lift depth for ground engagement (tillers and such). Looks like you have a nice Ohio Steel cart there too! Nice!
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The noodle was a first for me also. It will be coming off. I will see about the voltage tomorrow. So just put the negative lead on the meter on metal and the positive lead on the + side of the coil? Yes it does crank just fine.
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Yup. I changed the oil on my MF GC1720 today. Bit of an access wrassle to get something to turn the oil filter. Got the new filter on and was just about ready to start pouring the new oil I, when I remembered I had not put the drain plug back in yet. Caught it in time, though.
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Happy Birthday!
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That'll do it. Did he even put oil back in it??? I'd expect a bigger mess if he did. Good parts rig for someone.
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That pool noodle on steering wheel is a first for me Nice looking tractor. Does it crank? If it does, see if you have voltage (12v) to the plus side of the coil. If you do, that says the switch and clutch safety switch are working. On my C160 the clutch pedal has to be depressed all the way down for the switch to engage.
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Only took four air conditioner compressors purchased through local auto parts. They were either used (dirt in threads) already opened (no pressure released when removed the sealing plugs), or had metal shavings inside (when mechanic poured out the oil to be sure the right amount was inside the compressor.
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I will have to take a better pic tomorrow but I do see the id tag on it now. it is in this pic but unreadable with this pic. will get more pics tomorrow.
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Dad had one can of Billy Beer on the basement fire place mantel. As far as I know dad never drank a beer. Mom probably threw the Billy Beer away after dad passed away.. Well, at least she didn't throw away a fortune!
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Wheel Horse used the 47421d spec number from 1973-1977. Kohler made your serial 7354973 in 1976. If the engine is original to the tractor best guess is it is a 1976 or 1977 model tractor. Click on the picture in this link. It will take you to a picture of the ID plate location.
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Ain't what this is all about?
