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Front Mount Deck Hanger (42” SD)
gwest_ca-(File Mod) replied to Pullstart's topic in Implements and Attachments
Taken from this service bulletin - Today
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As we are proud grand parents and its little Franks first birthday, what better than his first Wheel Horse. Built by his clever uncle Ewan…
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Nice. a few comments in no particular order: Fiberglass panels… Up to a pretty impressive limit, the fiberglass panels will be incredibly damage resistant. Unlike metals, fiberglass composite is completely elastic right up to its failure point. So as long as it doesn’t crack, it will rebound fully. The polyester resin matrix will, over time, yellow and lose some translucency due to UV exposure. It will also get a little more brittle as this happens and will eventually start to bloom some fibers. Depending on the inhibitor package mixed into the resin you can expect 7-10 years outside. Keeping it inside stalls that deterioration process. Even without sun, the inhibitors will still be consumed and lose effectiveness over time. The most active degradation reaction mechanism is called free radical polymerization by the way. This is when a photon on UV light knocks an electron loose from a molecule and which is then free to swim around in the plastic and react with things. Commonly, additional cross links form between polymer chains, thus stiffening and embrittling them. The inhibitors are mostly free radical scavengers which have active sites that have a special affinity for those radicals. analog free radical reactions happen in your skin and tissues too causing all mannee of damage. All those makeup and cosmetics commercials you see have a (very small) kernel of truth to them when they talk about such things. Lights… I’ve seen people shoehorn a 5A blade type fuse into the two adjacent battery and taillight pins of the 7 way plug to power up their running lights from the brake battery. Apparently if you lightly twist the blades just a little bit it will pop right in. Same as the jumper, but with a bit of protection in case something goes wrong. I rigged up a toggle switch at the junction box on my trailer (just like your pic) between the battery terminal and backup terminal so I could switch on a reverse facing flood lamp and power it from the truck supply independent of having the gearshift in reverse. This gives me a work light available and a backup lamp for nighttime launching. I’ve used it a couple of times and it’s been a nice addition. I just assumed the lamp would work from the trailer’s onboard brake battery too even when unplugged from the truck. No such luck. My battery is apparently isolated via a diode so it doesn’t backfeed the truck or allow power to be present out at the plug. I don’t know what the convention is, but mine doesn’t permit powering up anything from the battery and yet apparently others (like yours) do. I assume that same diode also clips off a half a volt or so of charging voltage when connected to the truck and may be the reason I only get a couple years out of a battery…it’s chronically undercharged. Chargjng… You can install a fairly cheap DC-DC converter or DC-DC Battery Charger between the trailer power wire and your battery to achieve a full charge. If you pick a small one you don’t have to worry about overcurrenting the feed from the truck as they are self-limiting and also typically don’t allow battery discharge back through them when off. Nice ones have adjustable charge profiles to allow you to later switch battery chemistry if you desire. Most aren’t weather sealed tightly enough to be mounted outside, so it would have to live inside like your inverter. Some even have Solar charge controllers in them to allow roof mounted panels to charge the battery too. still on charging… I haven’t done it, but I am considering running 6 AWG wire ftom my truck’s battery to an Anderson connector under the rear bumper. From there, plug in another cable and run it up into my boat where it would feed a sizable DC-DC charger to charge the 24v battery bank for the trolling motor. A second circuit would go to the 12v cranking battery. I’ve moved my boat to a storage lot that doesn’t have power and this would enable me to recharge at a high rate while traveling to and from the lake. As it stands now, I take a little generator with me that I run on the return trip to get as much back into the batteries as I can. What’s happening is I’m slowly killing my lead acid batteries since they never get fully charged. Eventually they’ll be lithium which charge quickly and tolerate being stored with a partial charge, two things lead acid don’t. But I’d still benefit from at least being able to actually top them up fully. there are days where I might draw 35A out of my 24V system for a couple of hours. Best case, I can only get 5A out of the current charger and I might only run the gennie a couple hours. So I’m presently going the wrong way most of the time. I can see this sort of setup having significant utility for campers or trailers like yours. I think on the road at high engine speeds the alternator would cool sufficiently and its internal currents would be low since the voltage would be up Not cheap of course, but manageable. Finally, inverters… It’s not going to be common, but if your inverter isn’t a pure sine wave inverter you may find some devices that won’t like it and may not run. Some inverters put out a square wave or choppy/noisy modified waves that some equipment might recognize as problematic and not operate. We tinkered with a sizeable modified sine wave inverter at work on a piece of equipment and the onboard microwave oven didn’t even try to run, yet everything else seemed fine. The takeaway from this should be to make sure you trial everything before you take a trip away from home base. Great progress. Looks like a pleasurable diversion. Steve
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Built an offbrand Lego set of the 4014 that I got off of Amazon the other day. Even in Lego this thing is huge. Putting it next to the Lego '59 Chevy I got for Easter, its about the same scale factor as in real life so that's a pretty cool coincidence
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845, my 1045 look a like project
702854boy replied to 702854boy's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
The last couple of days I've done the little nitpicky jobs like welding some hood mounts on, wiring up the kill switch, installing the throttle and choke cable, putting oil in the engine, and running the fuel line. I'm close to being able to run and drive it I just need to get the carb straightened out because at the moment it only runs on a shot of brake clean and isn't getting fuel. I did pop the line if the carb to make sure I had fuel going to it but I think the main problem is that its all gummed up from old fuel because when I took the bowl off it smelled like varnish and it was very dark and cruddy. -
Bought a Farmall Cub muffler and installed it today. I do like the nice mellow sound it gives 20260723_213324.mp4
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What have you done "WITH" your Wheel Horse
cafoose replied to rjg854's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
@sqrlgtr How do you get under trees with that tall flag on the 160? -
855 leaking axle seals
ineedanother replied to nyquil junkie's topic in Transmissions and transaxles
Leaky seals are a hub removal's best friend They tend to come off relatively easily as compared to dry ones. -
I approach this issue differently by eliminating a bad ground as step 1. Attach your black lead to the engine block and the positive lead to the battery. Less than 12.5 or so tells you bad ground or bad battery. If good, then I follow the power through the harness.
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@whtractors24 Son of gun! You got me beat Jason! Mine has 24 hrs on it. 😂
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My 420-lse with only 20 hours . Trying to keep up with @c-series don . 🤠 b93e294b818ae0c0557c55d68b4eae6a.mp4 b93e294b818ae0c0557c55d68b4eae6a.mp4 IMG_0447.mov
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I think your dentist is over priced.I have had several implants. Years ago 2500 for the whole deal...just started another one today implant $2200 the abutment and crown will be about 1300. (I needed a bone graft that added 500) if you need an extraction add another 250.
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In general, the current crop of homeowners will total any kind of outdoor power equipment in short order. They don't care and will simply replace their junk with new junk at the drop of a hat.
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My last plan offered a kick-in for hearing aids - none at the famous name vendors. The monetary amount they applied was a joke at the second string places!
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I use an adjustable wrench (crescent-type spanner) rather than a claw and tap it off with a hammer. You can also pry against the wrench rather than the knob if you choose to use a claw hammer.
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Be super careful prying the seal out, one good nick on the axle will have you doing more work.
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Oh ok I understand now. thank you guys
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Wrong, read it again. Put more drag on the throttle lever at the dash.
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1973 18 HP {1-0610 8} With Some Implements
ol550 replied to BradKahler's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
IMHO Owning a D series is similar to owning a boat, well at least for me, it's more than a winter project. It is more like every winter. In my case with the boat and D series. About as happy the day I got it and the day they left. Good luck and enjoy the adventure. -
So is it the governor spring that needs readjusted or something else because that spring controls how responsive the governor is. Please Correct me if I’m wrong
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Front Mount Deck Hanger (42” SD)
1mor Project replied to Pullstart's topic in Implements and Attachments
How does the PTO belt route to the mower deck. I have an NOS frame. but I always thought it was missing something and never fallowed through to determine exactly what I was missing. What length/width is a WH 1594 belt? Kent -
Out of pocket. If I had taken the $38 per month plan, it would pay a maximum dental of $1000 per year for a net gain of $544. My dentist sells me a Smile Savers plan that gives me a discount of 10% with no insurance, so the dental plan from my insurance is worth less than nothing.
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Your throttle control is a lever - correct? Why it happens is the cable pulls on a spring connected to the governor arm to increase rpm. As the throttle is used to increase rpm the governor creates an opposing force to slow the rpm down. The higher the rpm the more force created by both. To fix the problem the throttle lever requires more tension at the pivot. You can remove the control and try pinching the pivot rivet tighter to increase tension. For a permanent fix remove the rivet and replace with a bolt with about 5/16"-3/8" of unthreaded shank. Add flat washers to take up the extra length and cut off what is not needed. Add a nylon insert nut that you use to adjust the tension required to hold the throttle in position at high rpm. The unthreaded shank in the pivot area reduces the wear on the moving parts. If there were threads there everything wears fast. If the problem reoccurs in the future just go in with two wrenches and adjust.
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And the 3/4" hitch pin.
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The negative terminal and ground connection are just as important. If the engine is is mounted on a shaker plate check the ground wire going to the engine mount.
