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hey Ray - - never heard that model recycler terminology for a 48 deck -- i thought the 42 rear discharge deck was the only WH recycler -- Because I never heard that term for the 48 deck i checked online and still don't see it -- Am i missing something? I have had 48 decks just not familair with that feature? Are there attachment " baffles and kickers" like the 42 Rear discharge model that go in it as well as the discharge chute you refer to? thanks Bill
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Hard to beat an old Kohler, and a recoil start might be nice when battery and starter maintenance is concerned. But if you go with a repower, most newer engines are more compact and the PTO as a result is lower, and the engines tend to be more narrow as well. I've repowered 3 machines with Vanguard V twins. That means not only raising the engine by about an inch, but shifting it to the right as well. The only way I could find that works consistently is to fab up an adapter the bolts to the existing frame holes while providing a new bolt pattern to interface with the smaller engine pattern. One thing that helped get my builds in the ballpark was to use the PTO hoop lower bracket and the beltguard as a guide for where the PTO shaft needs to be. It isn't perfect but it helps alot. It at least removes guesswork from the equation. Just don't swap any PTO brackets. Different models did use different locations as well as manual and hydros are different. Stick with what was originally on your machine. One pic below shows how different the locations can be between models.
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The shroud I had had a sticker on it, well now it’s been restored and the original sticker was un readable anywau
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Why not just take a couple of days and work slowly with the guys on here and get the original k181 running? If I remember correctly from previous posts, it doesn't need much more than just being rewired and all of the grounds cleaned up.
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I may be wrong but I believe all of the K series have a spec number. It's not exclusive to Wheel Horse. Are the tags missing from the engine's shroud?
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What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
Bugzilla46310 replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Just slight rubber. Smell went away. One thing I need to check is the wire belt guide, just above left of the drive pulley on the picture . I don’t recall adjusting and tightening that down when I put the deck on the tractor. -
It seems that it would be much less hassle to just buy that K161 tiller engine I posted about for $75.00 and take the recoil parts off.. just bolt it directly onto my K181 that’s on my 856… would be much easier quicker than predator swap. If that is indeed as simple as unbolting the recoil pull start… cup and if needed bearing plate swap and if that is all worth $75 to do that swap to simple recoil would there be cheaper brand new modern recoil parts I could buy and just bolt on.. maybe from newer Kohler or even a non Kohler modern easy to obtain exact parts?
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Good to know the clutch allows for tolerance slack movement. The predator mount would help with the engine setting. Thank you
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This is the math part i understand how to calculate.. thank you for teaching me pulley diameter matters just as much
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The adapter is 0.5 inches tall.. the great feature of them being made for predator engines is they have enough pre drilled hole width and length with enough play to slide the engine as needed after bolting it to tractor frame.
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I agree with Ed. Set the engine and everything else the way you want it and measure for the correct belt. The clutch idler pulley will allow for some tolerance in belt length. Slotting the engine mount holes can also allow for some adjustment. If you NEED to keep the original belt, put it on, then mount the engine. ie: drill new holes
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Great point Ed. Thank you
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Pulley diameters come into the equation as well. If you keep the same pulley diameters, the amount of the engine set back becomes a trig problem. To solve that, you will need to know the original horizontal and vertical distanced between the crank center and the tranny input shaft center. Keeping the same pulley diameters and drive belt means that the direct distance between the crank and input shaft should remain the same. Increasing the vertical distance by an inch will require reducing the horizontal distance by a fraction of an inch - i'm going to gustimate that distance will be somewhere between 1/4 and 1/2 inch. Now, when you throw the clutch into the calculations, the above basically gives you a starting point, as the kinimatics of a belt and 3 pulleys is different than a belt and 2 pullies.
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Wheel Horse 414-8 Manual Attachment Lever
bradleydavidgood replied to bradleydavidgood's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
You guys are so helpful! Just amazing this response. Thank you! It may be another week or two until I get back to it. I'm jammed with renovations and electric install. Thanks -
65.8 hour 523Dxi & 1000 hour 520Lxi parts
Boyd W commented on Boyd Walker's classified in Wheel Horse for Sale
I have one pair left. One is good condition, other has paint loose along the lower edge. I have ads in the Minneapolis Minnesota Craigslist, “Toro 5xi parts in Stillwater Mn. Also on Facebook Marketplace. My zip code is 55082. -
Just trying and finding out why my batteries were going flat. Actually it was the chargers.One battery was at ten volts and she went to six volts in an hour Then i got out the old manual 2 amp charger and it worked and spun one of the 2 C-160s and the fuel pump was not working. it fired on carb spray. The 314 is up ,but its time to be mounting up a snow plow. At least now i think the three yausa batteries can be saved. We are still mowing /grinding leaves as they fall with the 314. Having old equipment is still preferred to the new stuff. Little things like fuel pumps and such may need swapped out or get an electric assistant pump. therre is a guy called the Flying wrench on Facebook who services equipment and he is fun to watch. He goes to the outdoor equipment with a super organized truck filled with Milwaukee Pak Out boxed and gets it done.
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Got a limpy 5 point tonight. I’d say I did it out of mercy.
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Thanks Bill. I just dont really have the tooling to fabricate a pedal setup
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non wheel horse , terrific shower head
Bar Nuthin replied to peter lena's topic in non tractor related discussion
A small amount of silicone plumber's grease (not petroleum grease) on the O-rings can ensure smooth operation and improve sealing. - Yesterday
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I have. Unfortunately I don't have the time to make more right now, plus I have concerns about the liabilities. Search Hydro Pedal # 1, 2, 3 if you're interested in copying my designs. Do so at your own risk.
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Side shot Saturday... AND SUNDAY !
ebinmaine replied to Sparky-(Admin)'s topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Agreed -
Any patio seating worth looking at for a Wheel Horse owner
ebinmaine replied to James Wright's topic in non tractor related discussion
Inarguably correct -
Pictures of mechanical stuff needed!!
ebinmaine replied to ebinmaine's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Very interesting. I believe mine are the larger hole like a Cub. Probably. Maybe. -
@Bill D has made one or 3.
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875 Wheel-A-Matic
702854boy replied to 702854boy's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
I got a chance today to check if my frame was square and according to our speed square, the frame is not square and it is bent in the direction that would lead to the problems I am having up top. Now to figure out how to pull the frame back straight and get it welded and reinforced. Hopefully I can get this all done before the snow starts to fall since I am kind of wanting to try out plowing with the hydro
