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I Think This Group Might Be Bad For Me - Meet My New B100 Automatic
sqrlgtr replied to BradKahler's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Just thinking out loud here, is there anyway diaphragm could fail and allow fuel in crankcase with this type fuel pump? -
Seat Time Job, Would You DO It ?
ebinmaine replied to JoeM's topic in non tractor related discussion
Very cool video. But I'm going to take a hard pass on any sort of snow removal on the steep side of a mountain. That job does in fact exist to some extent, not far from me. Jackson and Bartlett NH along with some surrounding towns have some extremely aggressive roads for short distances.- 1 reply
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Chipping away at my Stallion
SylvanLakeWH replied to Red Stallion's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
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I run tires from a walk behind snow blower on the front, turf tires with chains on the back and no added weight on either end. Very seldom have any issues pushing snow. Different type of plowing. I have a 50lb wheel weight on the right rear wheel, 120lbs of wheel weights on the left rear wheel, and 50lbs hanging out in front of the tractor. I've pulled this plow many miles with very little issue. Weight is helpful, too much can cause mechanical issues. Some thing has to give, if the tires don't give something else eventually will.
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Moe - front weights, and your choice of tire tread help that out. I run AG tires & 25 lb. weights up front.
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Welcome! OK, my ... Weight evenly distributed in or on the rear wheels is preferred. Are your tires fluid filled?? Fluid in the tire is perfectly centered.. Next, a set of inside and outside weights are preferred over what I see on yours. Your two sets of outer weights are creating an overhung condition that are easy to get caught up on objects. Added weight on the tractor frame is effective, but not preferred. All this concern is due to the Unidrive outer axle bearings - overdo it and you are setting them up for premature failure. Again, my
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I have about 50 lbs on each wheel on a 854 and chains and that thing is a beast when it comes to pushing snow. I have more of a hard time getting traction on the front to steer with a load of snow up front. I usually lift up a little on the blade when im in a turn and it gives me some down pressure so I can direct the snow where I want to go. I haven't tried bird seed for traction yet but I'll give it a try. Lol
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1980 C-125 implement lifting
SylvanLakeWH replied to Maine Red Horse's topic in Implements and Attachments
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What do you guys think is to much ballast. I just purchased chains that I will install. Also need one more weight to complete my suitcase set!
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I Think This Group Might Be Bad For Me - Meet My New B100 Automatic
Bill D replied to BradKahler's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
I made a mounting plate and converted my Kohlers over to impulse pumps. If you do this, use OEM Kawasaki pumps only. They are made by Mikuni in Japan. Very high quality. -
Keith R joined the community
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The Ford 2000 was totally redesign for 1965, adopting a more square off look from the previous 1962-1965 models, which were carry overs from the Ford 601 series. The redesign also included either a 3 cylinder gas or 3 cylinder diesel engine, versus the old 4 cylinder engines. The 3000 first came out in 1965, using that new design and 3 cylinder gas or diesel engines. The 3 cylinder engines were derived from the UK 3 cylinder engines that were being used in Fordsons. The Shibaura built Ford compacts were totally different machines, not as big or heavy, and the 1000 was the first, debuting in 1973, and was replaced by the 1600 in 1976, which in turned got replaced by the 1700. Below is a video that shows the different models Shibaura built for Ford and the years produced, engine size, etc.
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What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
Red Stallion replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Good for mowing round paddocks -
I worked part time at Kleiber Ford Tractor in 74&75. He did not stock the compact 1000 -1700 for the first couple of years that they were out. He carried the 2600 and 3600 series which were the continuation of the 2000,3000, etc series of heavier farm tractors. No idea why. But I suspect he gave them a few years before introducing foreign made tractors to the conservative people around there.
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What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
Bar Nuthin replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Lol, At first, I thought "Wonky" was the name of his tractor. -
What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?
Red Stallion replied to Ed Kennell's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
Nearly time to get the bonnet back on! -
The Cub Z-Force is a higher-end residential model, not a commercial model. The only thing it has that is commercial is the entry-level Commercial Hydro-Gear ZT3100 transmissions. which was Only in the Z-Force SX series. The Z-Force S series had a ZT2800 (top-of-the-line residential-grade transmission), but most of the Cubs with steering wheels can take a front blade and can climb very steep hillsides that many 2WD lawn & garden tractors, regardless of brand, can't climb.(unless they have some type of traction assist). The lap bar zero-turn, whether residential or commercial, usually gives you a slide down a steep hillside because of the dummy wheel front axles. Cub Cadet Residential-grade steering wheel zero turns https://www.cubcadet.com/en_US/ultima-zts-zero-turn-mowers Cub Cadet 2026 Residential-grade steering wheel zero turns https://www.cubcadet.com/en_US/ultima-zs-zero-turn-mowers Cub Cadet Premium residential-grade steering wheel zero turns (replace the Cub Cadet Z-force in 2023) https://www.cubcadet.com/en_US/ultima-ztxs-zero-turn-mowers Just about every level of Lap Bar Steering Cub Cadet-MTD/Stanley makes has a front blade available for it. https://www.cubcadet.com/en_US/zero-turn-mower-accessories/52-inch-all-season-plow-blade-attachment/19A70063OEM.html?fitsOnModel=false The commercial-grade Cub Cadet zero-turns Tanks were at the commercial level in the past and have been replaced by the PRO models listed below in recent years. https://www.cubcadet.com/en_US/commercial-equipment/commercial-zero-turn-mowers Dixon in the past made both front blades and snow blowers for every level of zero turn they made prior to being bought by Husqvarna. The Toro Wheel Horse 600 series, which was made in the late 1980s through the 1990s, had a front blade for . Even after 2000 until about 2007, Toro offered a snow blade for many of there zero turns. Ariens was another manufacturer that did make front blades for their entry-level zero turns at the beginning part of this century. Many of the Bad Boy residential line zero turns are not that low in price either. The Maverick is in the $7,000 price range. The ZT Elite is in the $6,000 price range. The ZT Avenger is in the mid-$5,000 price range. The MZ Magnum is in the high $4,000 price range. The MZ Rambler is in the $3,200 to $3,700 price range. It seems only Bad Boys commercial line has a front blade available for them. Garden tractors In General were sold to Be the Sub compact tractor of there day from late 1940's with Bolens till the early 2000'S when the Sub Compact started coming on the scene. Wheel Horse regardless of parent company was Marketing there tractors to be and every Job type of tractor for all terrains as well My 1992 416H is a great Garden tractor (except for the Onan) I see a Honda or Briggs In it's future . It one of the Best cultivating Garden tractors I have owned The Eaton 11's are Great transmissions and for a Non traction assist GT there great at Plowing snow But My 416H is also Limited do to it's clevis hitch lift height (for Transporting sleeve Hitch 10-inch plows from Barn to Garden bed) and steep Hill climbing ability I am still on the look out to add to My collection with a 312H or a 314H I have always loved the Pre 1997 wheel Horses because of there Narrow size
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1980 C-125 implement lifting
Handy Don replied to Maine Red Horse's topic in Implements and Attachments
This is me, with the skills, facilities, and tooling that I have--others will certainly have other approaches! Ideally, one would remove the rock shaft and then the residual bushing support for at least the left bushing and, based on close inspection, maybe the right side as well. Next weld in new ¼” plates on the inside of the hoodstand drilled to the rock shaft bushing diameter. Lastly re-assemble, replacing the bushings if indicated. HOWEVER, given the state of the rest of that tractor, I’d put at least a $1 bet the rock shaft components are solidly “nature welded” together. In that case, given how inaccessible the rock shaft is, the only way to disassemble it might be with a cutting torch. So, Plan B. Loosen the clips centering the rock shaft but do not try to remove the shaft. Instead, with whatever access you can manage, carefully cut/grind away the debris of the left side bushing support. While supporting the rockshaft in its correct position, weld two separate plates to the inside of the hood stand, each having a half-circle sized for the bushing. Put one plate below and one plate above with the joint positioned slightly higher towards the rear and lower toward the front. A variant on Plan B, is to buy a weldable two-piece shaft collar instead of making steel plates. Size it to just snugly clamp the end of the bushing protruding through the side of the hood stand and weld it to the hoodstand. A further option includes adding a split bushing around the rockshaft and inside the collar. -
Chipping away at my Stallion
Red Stallion replied to Red Stallion's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
I'll go to the top of the hill and use that to test the brakes, steering, etc. Should be obvious before the first bend! -
Chipping away at my Stallion
Red Stallion replied to Red Stallion's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
Thanks... no need anymore as Ive replaced the seat and rail setup, and needed to fabricate a spacer between the spring rail and the seat track. Also managed to get some rubber grommets that fit perfectly over the seat springs! New seat is on, found why the side panel was fouling with the clutch (engine bolts loose) and nearing completion! PS also put a bunch of scratch getting the seat on. Ive reached the point of not caring and just want to get it running again. -
Sorry. I was trying to make a joke. I've never heard of WorthPoint. interesting concept. Thanks for explaining
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I Think This Group Might Be Bad For Me - Meet My New B100 Automatic
Handy Don replied to BradKahler's topic in Wheel Horse Tractors
It is possible your test strokes are longer than what the lobe on the engine shaft provides. I’ve not experienced excess wear on the pump lobe or pump lever. Also possible is that the fuel line was allowing air to be sucked in at a not quite tight connection. A lot depends on the location of the tank. Above the carb, petcock open, no leaks? Almost no time at all. Tank below the carb and a long hose run? Seven or eight seconds wouldn’t surprise me but it varies a lot based on a bunch of factors. The “lag” is why a lot of members have gone to electric pumps or squeeze priming bulbs. -
Bench vise mounted small tire removal
Spareparts replied to ebinmaine's topic in Tools and Equipment
I like that, would work great on the receiver hitch when you have to repair replace a tire at the Garden Tractor Pull -
Chipping away at my Stallion
lynnmor replied to Red Stallion's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
They are spacers that go between the seat bottom and the adjuster tracks, you need 4 of them. The hand push sticker goes on the fender to the right of the seat assembly.
