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Raffle tractor for 2026 ??
Handy Don replied to Sparky-(Admin)'s topic in Wheel Horse Collectors Club Show
And add an AHHOOOGGGAA horn. Ahooogha.mov -
Raffle tractor for 2026 ??
squonk replied to Sparky-(Admin)'s topic in Wheel Horse Collectors Club Show
Take off the deck and make a show cruiser out of it. @953 nut's electric is awesome for this! -
Dave135 joined the community
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Just dabbed a little on with a Q Tip.
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Steel vs Titanium framing hammer
Handy Don replied to ohiofarmer's topic in non tractor related discussion
I remember that feeling from driving nails and especially when I mastered toe-nailing! A few years back I switched from my wood-handled 16 to a 12 ounce DeWalt with a slightly longer handle when I detected the onset of some elbow pain. It’s no good in tight quarters, of course, but I made a conscious effort to learn how to swing it properly and after a while it has proven itself to me. Head speed over a longer arc is the critical factor. It has a magnetic common nail-holder slot at the back of the head, so I’ve trained myself to use that for setting nails so i’m not tempted to crowd in. That said, I’m not giving back my Craftsman 19v finish nailer! -
Sorry, I had missed this one. Just did it today - I believe so - if I did it right. I used a small jumper wire to connect the + line from the battery to the terminal on the solenoid that the purple is connected to - this turned the starter over. HOWEVER (and I'm not sure if this is what you meant) when I used the same jumper from the + terminal to the purple wire itself (disconnected from the solenoid - wire inserted in to plastic clasp end of the purple wire) nothing happened. Sorry if I'm not understanding it correctly.
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Sorry no pics at this time .shed stored till 4 years ago. last run 3 years ago. winterizes ASK Questions extra sharpened blade sets and belts
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Anyone got the inside scoop and know what it is this year?? Let’s hope it’s not a rear engine rider with a 30” deck
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Bill gave this treatment to our non-FEL 312-H and it radically reduced steering effort. While examining steering bits, look closely for bent spindles, too. This spindle shows the HD bracing--also an important strengthening.
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2026 Big Show Buy/Sell/Trade Thread
Razorback replied to Pullstart's topic in Wheel Horse Collectors Club Show
Was that a past repair of some sort? Or did it actually drive something with a chain? - Today
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2026 Big Show Buy/Sell/Trade Thread
Handy Don replied to Pullstart's topic in Wheel Horse Collectors Club Show
Fascinating adaptation of a sprocket to a wheel hub! -
Wanna build a black hood...
AlexR replied to kpinnc's topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
Saw this in a clip, another idea for cutting straight on a rim. -
I'll have to force myself to fight that urge.....
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It's a fun vehicle to work on, and there are still a lot of them around if you're ready for a new project .
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The Firestones from Miller date code is 2033 (22 July 2023). The carcass, tread, beads, sidewalls, and nubbies are all flexible (well, as flexible as 4-ply rating ever gets ). These are not NOS, they are made in SE Asia under a licensing agreement with Firestone. That they’ve been in stock for three years is no surprise to me--demand for these cannot be very high. Only a few WH and Cub model GTs seem to be using them and lots of owners prefer ags (6-12s are fronts on some larger tractors, but again, ags seem to rule). My take on tires is that age takes them all, regardless of usage. When my 854 came to me, its BF Goodrich rears still had some nubbies yet the tractor was kinda tired. Learned that the PO had swapped on new wheels with AGs when it was only a year or so old and the “original” wheels & tires were stored in the shed only to be put back on when he sold the tractor! There were age cracks and hardened lugs in the tread within a year of me running them (tubes kept them aired) and a big sidewall split (cord failure) was the final straw. My assessment? Any tire more than 25 years old has a short working life expectancy. These new Firestones should outlive me.
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This looks like an awesome project, on a vehicle I wish I had!!!!
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My only relevant experience is with the dual-circuit cooling of a Yanmar marine 2-cylinder diesel in a sailboat. Engine-side “freshwater” circuit pumps through a heat exchanger. Raw water circuit pumps through the heat exchanger and also cools the exhaust system. Both use flexible vane impeller pumps. Per the manual, if run dry the rubber impeller flaps can become brittle from heat very quickly, potentially breaking off and clogging internal passages. Recommended inspection interval is bi-seasonal or 250-500 hours but with consideration of operating conditions (water with lots of suspended solids like mud, sand, or vegetation will cause more rapid deterioration, for example).
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Thanks for the help gentlemen, ordered one from RCPW. It was my grandfathers mower, trying to get it going again. THANK YOU.
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I'm making slow but steady progress on the M37 engine overhaul. The new pistons and exhaust valves just arrived. The valves are 21-4N stainless steel, and I've asked the machine shop to install new hardened exhaust valve seat inserts to pair with the new exhaust valves (we haven't decided what kind of inserts yet, maybe sintered metal), so the engine will be properly set up for using unleaded fuel. The shop will be boring the cylinders .020" to pair with the .020 Silv-O-Lite pistons, which are a hypereutectic aluminum-silicon alloy that expands less when heated, so they are sized for a closer fit in the bore, and the silicon helps keep combustion heat in the chamber. They came with new piston pins (floating type), and I'll check the piston pin bushings in the connecting rods and replace the bushings if necessary. I just ordered a set of .020" oversize Grant piston rings. I'm also gradually moving ahead on the chassis and cab work. After removing the cab with my engine hoist, I rolled the chassis out of the garage and lifted out the transfer case with my front-end loader, since my engine hoist is still hooked up to the cab. The transfer case was covered with a thick layer of decades-old hardened dirt and oil that was about as tough as epoxy (or so it seemed at the time). Here's how it looked after SIX cycles of de-greasing and pressure washing. Not too bad, but there is still some dirt left to be removed, and of course I'll make sure it's spotless before opening it up to see how things look internally. Hopefully it will be in good shape, but I'll replace anything that may be needed. At the bare minimum I would be replacing all six seals and all gaskets. I still have to finish cleaning up the portion of the frame that was under the cab. As mentioned, the frame is actually in pretty nice shape. I just need to sand a few small areas of light surface rust, de-grease it again, pressure wash it again, let it dry thoroughly for a few days, and then prime and paint it, followed by all-new grease fittings and a thorough lube job. BTW, the olive drab paint you can see on the center section of the frame that was under the cab is the original paint. Not bad for 72 years old. It's raining off and on today, and I'm taking a bit of a break. Should be nice weather tomorrow, and I hope to get moving again on the frame cleanup.
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The last several days have been taken up with processing about 10 heads of cabbage from the garden. I think I used 4 to start a new batch of sauerkraut (weighed 4 pounds of cabbage), so the last couple of days I've gotten to hear the pleasing sound of an occasional "blurp" from the crock. Yesterday, I chopped the other heads, got them cooked down, and stuffed into quart jars. This morning I put 7 jars in the pressure canner.... just took the canner off of the heat, waiting for it to cool down. It's a lot of work, but very satisfying, in a lot of ways.
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Yes, but you don't want to use too much, it just takes a light coating to protect the connection.
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Although rare to find , i was lucky to get two General 6/12s with wheels at the Portland, Indiana Tri-State Engine Club swap meet in May. The rubber on these is like new. $120. Of course i had just purchased two new Carlisle Tru-Power 6/12s. For $250 ! There are still some tire deals out there!
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2026 Big Show Buy/Sell/Trade Thread
Docwheelhorse replied to Pullstart's topic in Wheel Horse Collectors Club Show
Well... I know there are guys running these mowers. So... if you need a trans or a deck or a "thingy" its gotta be worth something ti haul to show 400 miles right? I started at $50... make an offer. But im not hauling it for free... tyeres several universal wheel horse parts that I could pull and sell. Like the steering wheel... I just dont have time at moment. Plus I was thinking somebody may want to build a racing go cart mower out of it -
Correct, a B belt should be used, mine slipped with the 1/2" belt installed by the previous owner. The quick attachment point on the tractor can develop a lot of play making belt adjustment an issue. You really should have the 1" heavy duty front axle for a loader, at least use the needle type thrust bearings to ease steering.
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2026 Big Show Buy/Sell/Trade Thread
squonk replied to Pullstart's topic in Wheel Horse Collectors Club Show
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It is best to pull the intake in order to remove the carburetor for proper cleaning. It makes sense to do a valve adjustment at the same time since the intake needs removed to do that. Before doing any of that, check the compression to see if there may be other problems. Use only genuine Onan gaskets for the intake, valve covers and exhaust and torque to specs found in the Onan Service Manual that can be downloaded in the Manuals section. The cheap kits found on the auction site are rather poor quality but some of the parts are OK, I use the carburetor bowl gaskets without issue but the manifold gaskets and needle are junk. Use no goop on the carburetor, check the intake manifold for leaks while off by blocking the carb port and filling it with gas, kerosene or diesel fuel, if a leak is found come back for guidance on that repair. Follow the manual and do nothing that you aren't sure of, return here for advice.
