Tiller belt line up or wrong size?

[MAD MARK 74]

I finally got around to hooking the tiller up I found off craigslist. $175 but didn't have rock shaft or cables or springs. I got it on to what I think is right and it seems to me that the belt is either aged and stretched or wrong size to begin with. Check the photos out and let me know before I order a new belt what's going on. It keeps tossing the belt off...

[Racinbob 11,030]

It looks to be routed properly. I'd say the belt is too long.

[R. L. Addison 299]

I can not disagree the belt may be too long, as the tensioning spring should be stretched quite a bit, and looks to me like it is pretty much in a non-stretched or relaxed state. I solved my belt jumping problem by realigning the idler just in front of the tiller, had to bend the idler carrier add move the idler one way or the other (seems like I shimmed it toward the tire) with a couple washers. Now the pulley groove can fill up with dirt, and it "keeps a diggin". The misalignment was not really visible, but I had tried everything else.

[pfrederi 17,635]

I tried an after market belt that supposedly cross referenced.. Didn't work.  Bit the bullet and bought a EH belt (almost $65) but it has worked for several year now.

[MAD MARK 74]

It's a toro belt 110265 or something and is 141". I've ordered a new 1599 which is 139 so the 2" difference is probably why.

My 1599 is Toro name brand woven and was $20. 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,026]

In the mid-1980's this applied but don't know when the change applied or why it was necessary. Something must have changed.

Drive belt # 1599 (HA x 139.00in 1/2" x 139")

If used on later twin-cylinder models use belt # 103635 which has been replaced by # 110265 (1/2" x 141.00")

 

Garry

[312Hydro 474]

Hey neighbor,nice score! That shorter belt will bring up the flat idler and give you more tension. As suggested, check the alignment of the belt after you get the new one on. Sometimes the tiller mounting bracket  may need to be  shifted to get things aligned.

[MAD MARK 74]

Everything seemed to be aligned good except the tiller itself. Looking from behind the right side is out past rear wheels about 2" and left side is in 2". I already have the mounting brackets over to the left as far as possible. It must be ok though as the belt lines up nice. I was able to make 2 passes though so just need right side belt and should be fine thanks.

[Racinbob 11,030]

Just make sure your axle bracket is centered on the transmission and you'll be fine. The tiller does favor the right side.

 

Other than the belt everything looks good.

[clueless 2,974]

17 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

In the mid-1980's this applied but don't know when the change applied or why it was necessary. Something must have changed.

Drive belt # 1599 (HA x 139.00in 1/2" x 139")

If used on later twin-cylinder models use belt # 103635 which has been replaced by # 110265 (1/2" x 141.00")

 

Garry

Looks likes you've got an earlier tiller pre 300- 400 series, as Garry points out that's when the belt and the front idler spring position changed. First there are two mounting holes, front and back, on the bracket that the large pulley bolts to, there seems to be some question as to which hole to use with the 300-400 series. I have a 1998 416-8, and the 1998 36" tiller MN 79370 that came with it. The operator's manual that came with it states front hole for 400 & 500 series twin cylinder tractors and all single cylinder tractors. Rear hole for C & GT twin cylinder tractors. The belt should be the 110265 (1/2" x 141") the front hole is approximately 1 3/4" forward of the back hole, there's your 2" difference. Also the tension spring hooks to the hole in the frame on the 300 & 400 series in front of the idler bracket. Go to the manual section here and find an operator's manual for the 36" tiller made after 1985. It will show you how to install the front idler bracket on your 300 series.

 

Chris    

 

[clueless 2,974]

21 hours ago, MAD MARK said:

It's a toro belt 110265 or something and is 141". I've ordered a new 1599 which is 139 so the 2" difference is probably why.

My 1599 is Toro name brand woven and was $20. 

Mark if you go to the vendor section here and click on wheelhorse parts and more, then tiller parts, Lowell sells a front idler tiller bracket, he has pictures of how your bracket should look on your tractor. Your's is not hook up right for you year tractor.  

[chris sutton 610]

Ive just been fitting a tiller, had to make the idler and get a belt here in the UK, thought this might help you.

http://myoldmachine.com/topic/3727-7-1252-tiller/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-42336

[MAD MARK 74]

20 hours ago, clueless said:

Mark if you go to the vendor section here and click on wheelhorse parts and more, then tiller parts, Lowell sells a front idler tiller bracket, he has pictures of how your bracket should look on your tractor. Your's is not hook up right for you year tractor.  

 

That is for the straight bar idler set up. I have the L bar setup. This setup was on a late 80s 418. But I believe my idler set up is correct. I know the spring isnt to the right position/bolt, I was just test fitting it all.

23 hours ago, clueless said:

Looks likes you've got an earlier tiller pre 300- 400 series, as Garry points out that's when the belt and the front idler spring position changed. First there are two mounting holes, front and back, on the bracket that the large pulley bolts to, there seems to be some question as to which hole to use with the 300-400 series. I have a 1998 416-8, and the 1998 36" tiller MN 79370 that came with it. The operator's manual that came with it states front hole for 400 & 500 series twin cylinder tractors and all single cylinder tractors. Rear hole for C & GT twin cylinder tractors. The belt should be the 110265 (1/2" x 141") the front hole is approximately 1 3/4" forward of the back hole, there's your 2" difference. Also the tension spring hooks to the hole in the frame on the 300 & 400 series in front of the idler bracket. Go to the manual section here and find an operator's manual for the 36" tiller made after 1985. It will show you how to install the front idler bracket on your 300 series.

 

Chris    

 

I have 7-1252 so yes early. I'm going to check on the mounting holes for that bracket as you mentioned maybe I can move it and get this belt to work before my new belt comes in. Thanks for this information. 

[MAD MARK 74]

Just wanted to follow up and say that the belt was the whole issue. Put the 139"er on and did the whole garden. Only popped off once when doing never tiller soil when I had the tractor jumping like it had hydros haha.

 

Thanks for the help once again.