Solenoid wiring help

[d410954 1]

I got a '73 16 auto(1-0440) a while back for free and it didn't have a solenoid, battery, or ignition switch.

I referenced the switch numbers and got a new one. Solenoid is a ford 4 post that I saw a few other guys have used. And then a battery from TSC.

I have hooked up the solenoid like I've seen suggested and nothing happens. If you look at the solenoid from the seat: left post runs to the starter, right post goes to battery pos, small left post "s" is bare, and the right small post runs to "s" on the switch.

(Deep Breath...) and nothing happens...

Any suggestions?

-Adam

[sorekiwi 761]

Welcome to Red Square Adam.

 

I have the 4 post Ford solenoids on several of my tractors.  Without going back out in the cold to check how they are wired, I am guessing that your wire from the switch is going to the wrong small terminal on the solenoid.  A picture I have here shows the small switch wire going to the left hand small terminal (This is a starter.generator engine, but the wiring of the solenoid should be the same for your tractor)

 

[JimmyJam 542]

Welcom Adam to Redsquare!  Several months ago I had a similiar problem. One of the members here, Save Old Iron, helped me out. Here was his post:

 

 

Jimmy, you have a 4 terminal starter relay. No problem. The 4 terminal relays use one of the terminals to act as the ground for the relay instead of depending on the metal mounting ears of the relay to establish a ground to the tractor chassis. The ground will be the black wire on the relay. Make certain it goes to a ground connection.

The GREEN wire on the starter relay is the terminal you wish to connect the jumper wire to.

Disconnect the green wire from the trigger terminal.
Connect one end of your jumper wire to the large post on the starter relay which is connected to the battery (+)
Be careful as this jumper wire is now live with battery voltage.
Touch the free end of the jumper wire to the trigger terminal on the starter relay.
Note - the starter will continue to spin as long as you have the jumper wire attached to the trigger terminal.
If the motor starts, remove the jumper wire from the trigger terminal.
Reconnect the green trigger wire to the starter relay.





If the starter engages and spins the flywheel, the starter relay is good.

If the starter relay tests good and you have no starter activity when using the ignition switch, start troubleshooting the electrical and mechanical operation of both the safety switches and safety switch wiring.

Let us know how the starter relay jump works out.

 

 

Ford style can be made to work. Even though it is a 4 terminal arrangement, the 4th terminal on the old Ford style is not for grounding purposes. The 4th terminal is actually meant to be wired to bypass the ignition coil resistor on start up to provide a temporary "hotter" spark on older vehicles. The 4th terminal on a old Ford style will become hot with 12 volts when the trigger terminal is active.

IF you physically have the room for it, AND the starter stud terminals have the same side studs AND the current wiring can reach the new relay, yes, a 3 terminal or a 4 terminal Ford relay can be used.

The Ford relay can be grounded by fastening the metal mounting tabs of the relay to a bare spot on the chassis OR fastening a ground wire from the metal tabs of the relay to a good chassis ground,

Check with Autozone or NAPA. They have a minimal garden tractor parts section. I believe I saw a 4 terminal relay in their self stock for around $10. The Ford relay is much heavier duty and will likely be the last one one you need to replace on the tractor, but there are likely to be some size and placement issues that will get in the way.

 

Good Luck!

[d410954 1]

Thanks for the welcome

Believe it or not, that was the way I had it wired as soon as I mounted it. Nothing happened, so I did some searching and it showed the wire on the right one, so I switched it...same damn thing...

Checked, double checked, and then rechecked all the wiring compared to diagram and it looks right.

makes for a quick way to run out of patience.

[d410954 1]

Jimmy,

Ground the other terminal? if it worked for you I will give it a shot.

Thanks

[Martin 2,132]

 

 

 

one thing i would check is, do you have power going to the ignition switch battery terminal?

if you dont have +12v going to the switch first, when you turn the key it wont be energizing the solenoid.......

you need to run a 14 ga. or similar wire from the large terminal of the solenoid (that connects to the battery), to the 'b' terminal of the ignition switch. then your 's' wire (to the small terminal on the solenoid) will be live when you turn the key to start......

i would look and see if one of small terminals is marked first, the solenoids i use are 4 posts and i never need to ground the 4th. i just make sure that the solenoid chassis is well grounded....

your solenoid may need grounding though?

 

not that it will affect the 'start' solenoid circuit but do you have the rest of the ignition switch wired correctly? ignition terminal, acc etc?

Edited March 11, 2013 by Martin

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

If you are using a true "FORD" style relay, the 4th terminal becomes hot with 12 volts when the relay is engaged. Grounding the 4th terminal will blow the fuse on your main circuit (if you have a fuse). The 4th terminal was used on auto ignition systems to bypass the coil resistor. This would temporarily allow a hotter spark from ignition coil during cranking.

 

 

 

 

For a quick check of the relay before troubleshooting ignition switch wiring, connect a jumper wire from the left side large terminal (from the battery (+) to the left side small (trigger) terminal. Applying 12 volts from the battery directly to the trigger terminal will engage the relay with a pronounced click and the engine should start to crank. This quick test will confirm the starter relay, battery wiring, starter wiring and starter and starter ground to be in good condition.

[d410954 1]

Fellas,

Thanks for all of the tips to help me get y head out of my...

Martin hit the nail on the head. After looking over what I did, I realized that I didn't run a wire to the switch like suggested. So, wiring the solenoid like Save Old Iron said, and running the wire like Martin said, she purrs!

Thanks Guys!

[CGK 4]

d41,

Glad you were able to get your WH up and running !! SOI was indespensable to me in getting my 312-8 running again.

One thing I found out for sure, all wiring gremlins can be solved but only if you have very good ground points. I rewired all of the

grounding points on mine and replaced the OEM wire with a heavy guage copper wire and used copper lugs to bolt to the frame or

directly to the engine where I could. I then used Plasti-Dip  to coat all of the connections to keep them moisture and dirt free.

After that, the engine starts like it did when factory new and runs like a top.